(Topic ID: 320390)

Nuova Bell COBRA pinball repair

By cfh

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Have a Nuova Bell Cobra pinball from 1987 that does not work. It was designed for 220v, have that all handled so it's running with proper voltages at 120 volts. Also the power board in the backbox has the infamous "black box" voltage regulator replaced with an LM323. So that seems to be OK.

But the game won't fully boot. I get 6 LED mpu board flashes, but then it stops...

Does anyone know what the flash codes represent? i suspect it's Bally like... and yes there is coil voltage (if it's doing a Bally -35 check for coil voltage)... but i can't find any flash code information anywhere on the Web. Does anyone have this info?

Leon at one point was working on this, and a Test EPROM for the mpu board. But i can't find that info any where either.

thanks!
[email protected]

#2 1 year ago
Quoted from cfh:

Does anyone know what the flash codes represent?... i can't find any flash code information anywhere on the Web.

The MPU LED flash codes for Nuova/Bells Cobra are exactly the same as Bally - they basically ripped off the Bally design.

#3 1 year ago

thank you!
is there any documentation about their flash codes?

#4 1 year ago

Schematics show 2 pias?

First flash=rom checksum pass (this ALWAYS passes, looks like they have the check NOP'd out)
Second flash=main ram check
Third flash=nvram check (although based on the cursory look I took in pinmame, there's more ram in this game vs. a bally)
Fourth flash=pia check
fifth flash=pia 2 check
sixth flash=display interrupt check
seventh flash=zero cross interrupt check

So same as bally, in fact, it's the bally code stolen from one of their games and hacked.

Some more indepth analysis could probably reveal which game or at least family of games.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Some more indepth analysis could probably reveal which game or at least family of games.

The power on self test looks like Bally system ROM -52 / -53. You can see it in the battery backed RAM U8 test.

Nuova/Bell were doing their own releases of Bally games and modified the code for extra display digits. Then they started making their own playfield layouts, one of them using Eight Ball Deluxe code as a base and got more into coding mods.
Then they moved to their own boardset which was just enhanced Bally-35 architecture (more RAM/ROM support).

#6 1 year ago

someone sent me a wayback link to the leon info on this. I have done some light updating of the file, and will do more later....
http://pinrepair.com/bell/

#7 1 year ago

i updated the bell website with new pictures of the boards. Leon's pics were pretty old and small. just trying to make it easier to look at...

#8 1 year ago

Does anyone have a real schematic to bell Cobra?
that thing on IPDB is junk...
thanks! [email protected]

#9 1 year ago

Got the 1987 Bell Cobra working tonight, it will be ready for the Ann Arbor VFW pinball show. What a freakin trip that game is! The thing plays "Don't you want me baby" by Human League. Also interesting ball load for multi-ball play. Who would have thought??

2 weeks later
#10 1 year ago

Hi @cfh, I too have a Bell Cobra that I am working on bringing back to life.
Would I be able to trouble you for some pictures of the wiring on your working game?

Thankfully I am grateful that I have most the playfield elements on my game.

Hope to hear from you soon.

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#11 1 year ago

need to know exactly what you need

#12 1 year ago

Hey @cfh, I had a bit of a read of the page you mentioned you did some light updates to http://pinrepair.com/bell/ (Thank you for updating)
I noticed that the schematic of the Power Module had more information than the previous one I had found around the CNT1 area.
I had already assumed that the boxes and numbers down the right hand side were going back to the Solenoid Regulator Board - Power Module pins but there was no headings written on the schematic to indicate this so I was uncertain of my translation.

This is my first restore project and I've thrown myself in the deep end with getting a machine that needs re-wiring, also fairly new to reading schematics at the moment so I thought photos might help me clear this up, hence why I asked for photos earlier.

Its amazing how a couple of extra written points can clear up some of the confusion I was having around the wiring. I should be ok now I think.

I would love to see any photos you have of your Cobra if your happy to share? The more photos I gather the easier it will be to get the right direction to get mine back to original condition.

4 months later
#13 1 year ago

Hi guys, for those of you that own Cobra, can anyone tell me which rubbers sizes you usually order to replace all the rubbers on the playfield?
The manual doesn't have any information on this.

A list with the size and quantity would be awesome.

Thanks in advance!

7 months later
#14 8 months ago

Hi Everyone, I've created a collection of scanned assets for Bell Games Cobra for anyone to use.
These games are hard to come by, so I hope this is useful for others as well.

Added a few images to show as examples, thank you to everyone who has sent me assets of the front and rear backglass, ive been able to touch both up to my liking for re-printing, I hope this is useful for others as well.

Playfield scan coming soon..

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Agv5xpyUp3HmpOxCaqSbNPaFdEYwCQ?e=OgnGYT

BackglassRear (resized).jpgBackglassRear (resized).jpgBang_Target (resized).pngBang_Target (resized).pngCat2_Target (resized).pngCat2_Target (resized).pngCat_Target (resized).pngCat_Target (resized).pngPopBumperDecal2 (resized).pngPopBumperDecal2 (resized).pngcompare (resized).pngcompare (resized).png

2 weeks later
#15 8 months ago

Today I used the graphic I recreated for the bumper on Cobra.
I used Waterslide Decal paper to print and transfer the image onto the blank bumper cap.

1. Printed a few different sizes, as I was unsure which would fit.
2. Sprayed the paper with Clear Acrylic paint to seal it.
3. Cut the image out
4. Heated up lukewarm water in a bowl and dropped the image in for 25 seconds
5. Removed the image and applied it to the bumper cap carefully
6. Heated up the oven to approximately 150 degrees Celsius and placed the bumper cap in for 15 minutes. Keep an eye on it, you don't want to melt anything accidentally.
7. Remove from the oven and place onto the machine.

Took some photos and video of some of the process. Hope this helps someone else.

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1 month later
#16 6 months ago
Quoted from cfh:

. It was designed for 220v, have that all handled so it's running with proper voltages at 120 volts.

What is required to convert from 220v to 120v? A friend just had one delivered. Thanks.

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