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(Topic ID: 201106)

NOS/NEW Playfields Available for JAN 2018


By kruzman

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 214 posts
  • 46 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by kruzman
  • Topic is favorited by 18 Pinsiders

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    #83 2 years ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    There is some good info.
    wanted to say a couple of reminders:
    if you ever buy a repro from one of the manufactures, and you have had enough experience to know you are going to want one of my sweet-assed clearcoats, you may have them ship it directly here to save money on shipping. There is one pf maker who tends to send ones that have clear issues when they are going straight to me, which is not really a problem. It is a problem when I buy one for me, and it comes with a bad clear because they think I am going to sand it off anyway, but I like to give the customer the choice.
    Also here is a reminder that I drill and dimple NOS pf's that were not done at the factory. some pf's have over 300 dimples on the back, and over 100 on the front plus drill holes. cost ranges from 200-300. If you installing, it will be some of the best money spent. I want to make a template for spy hunter, but I dont have a used pf for it. If anyone in michigan has a used pf that I can borrow or rent, please let me know.
    Thank you for your support. r kruzman playfields

    But Ron my BOP pf that I got from Peter didn't develop problems (shrunken clear rings around most all inserts) until about 8 months after I bought it. If you would have cleared it right away from him would I still have the same problem 8 months later?

    1 week later
    #99 2 years ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    I have been making under 20 g a year since doing this,

    I don't know how you can live on that. That's what I was making in 1978.

    4 weeks later
    #141 2 years ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    This crazy assed weather has made it so I have not got crap done as far as the job goes, but the forecast looks like I can work at least the next 10 days without any problems at all which is great. I have been doing 2 extra coats, but making each coat thinner, for hardness. I experimented with a thinner finished thickness, but I found that the inserts tend to expand and contract more (with change in temp) than they usually do, and just making them easier to feel. So it was a good experiment, but the thickness that I have been doing for the last aprox 3 years is about perfect for the material I am using. Although the insert expansion varies a lot depending on if it is a nos pf, and from what era. Repro pf's seem to experience the most insert expansion. and used pf's the least. How about that. Since I didnt set up this experiment from the beginning to focus on insert expansion, there is really no conclusions in stone. It just solidifies what I figured would happen if that makes any sense at all.
    so really this post is nothing but hot air, but this is the internet. Suppose it would be good for facebook also.
    OK back to work. its 40 deg. Now it is easy to maintain the shop at the perfect 75 degrees that my clear and paint loves. I will return to post more hot air when the temp gets back in the single digits. ha.
    Thanks as always for the support. I will check starship fantasy for FT pf's

    We have the same crazy weather here too.

    #153 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Hey Ron, ,do you apply clear to the backs of all the playfield you do ? Does it help with bowing or is it just to make it easier to clean fingerprints and dirt off of ? Just wondering if I should do it to my Getaway playfield before I install it .

    You should do it cuz you know how black everything gets from the coil dust. I cleared the back of my Jackbot light board in the bb and man it looks tits. I didn't sand and buff though.

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    #156 2 years ago

    You really should, you gotta sand and repaint the front anyway. I sanded both sides and edges first then I cleared the back with a few coats, sanding flat each coat then when the back was cured I painted the front. I just put a piece of painters tape over the holes on back and painted the front. Here's what I did to make sure I got the right sockets in the right holes. I put the tape on while the wires were on the board and numbered the tape and holes on the board first then I was able to remover the wires as one big piece. As I put the sockets back in I then cleaned the wires and sockets. For the long connection wires I cut all the wire ties off, cleaned the wires and put new wire ties on. It was a fun project. Also, I let each coat of clear dry for a week before I sanded, then after sanding I let that dry for 3 or 4 days before I sprayed another coat. It took a while.

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    #158 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Looks good Paul. But not to derail this thread, what do youy usually do Ron ?

    Ron doesn't mind a few thread bumps. And besides, seeing Ron's GREAT clear jobs gave me the idea to do my light board.

    #162 2 years ago
    Quoted from SUPERBEE:

    Ok thanks. Think I will do it. I have a few cans of varathane diamond coat kicking around so I may as well.

    I wish I would have used that, I used Triple Thick. Yours will turn out much nicer then mine.

    #163 2 years ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    . when I worked in the engine compartment I would have the same situation, dirty finger prints to clean.

    Speaking of which. How do ya like mine?

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    2 weeks later
    #176 2 years ago
    Quoted from jboner1058:

    Kruzman is the fucking man. 99% of the crazing gone, all the cracks around the inserts gone, the scratches in the clear all gone, man this is worth every penny. I wish my phone camera could show you all how shiny and pretty this is. It seriously looks like stain glass when the inserts are lit up

    That is BEAUTIFUL!!! Worth every penny. Your gonna hate to run a ball on it.

    #186 2 years ago

    I'm planning on having Ron reclear my new BOP pf. Seems like every time I look at it it gets worse and worse.

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