(Topic ID: 201106)

NOS/NEW Playfields Available for JAN 2018


By kruzman

2 years ago



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  • 214 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by kruzman
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    #51 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    starlight sounds familiar, but I cant pic it. I will try to look it up.

    Looks like this courtesy of IPDB.org.
    -Mike

    a099678527db792434a9f5e1d50da37309654843 (resized).jpg

    #52 1 year ago

    Ron, just wanted to say that your work stands out. The TAF playfield you did in one I redid that came with new IPB you did still is standing the test of time of 2000+ plays. If I end up staying around and doing any other playfield, you will be re-clearing. The clear from the repros is ok but from what I’ve seen, long term doesn’t hold up looks yours.

    #53 1 year ago

    Oh god I hope I don’t screw up and drag the dremmel across the playfield

    #54 1 year ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    Ron, just wanted to say that your work stands out. The TAF playfield you did in one I redid that came with new IPB you did still is standing the test of time of 2000+ plays. If I end up staying around and doing any other playfield, you will be re-clearing. The clear from the repros is ok but from what I’ve seen, long term doesn’t hold up looks yours.

    This post will put some spring in my step for a while. Much of the changes I have made to my process in the last 2 years is to make for longer lasting finish. My customers dont get back to me a couple years later unless they are getting another pf. there is a guy in kalamazoo who has my clear on an AFM That I ask people about, and now a guy up north has a FH I did for him this summer that is installed, and since he is real tight with a friend, plus I see him at all of the events I can keep up on his.
    anyway this is what makes it worth it, after all, frank lloyd used to preach to his students "FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION" I think that is the right form.

    #55 1 year ago

    One of my guys in Germany has a TAF repro for sale for 899 euro. It is made by someone in germany, he says, which I assume is the person who did F14 and bride? or is it mirco?
    Can anyone help me here so I dont have to go on the net. I am old.

    I thought I would announce this. If you know me or work with me, you prob know I have a nokia flip phone from the old days. I love it but the battery only last about 15 min of talk time, and the screen is broken, and I dont get service in my area (I think it is not 4g compatable) so my benefactor (C.T.) surprised me with a brand new I phone. It is amazing and his daughter and my girlfriends daughter are teaching me how to use it. So soon I will be able to be reached by phone. The camera on this thing is insane. I have a 10 mp Nikon dslr that cost me almost a grand without lenses, and this takes way better pics. I just shake my head. End of an era.

    #56 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    One of my guys in Germany has a TAF repro for sale for 899 euro. It is made by someone in germany, he says, which I assume is the person who did F14 and bride? or is it mirco?

    Other than CPR, the only other person making them is Mirco, yes.

    #57 1 year ago

    I am finishing a cpr fathom gold today, and I dont have a name on it. Before I start going thru all of my stuff, if it is yours please drop me a line. Always a beautiful plank. I would love that game!

    #58 1 year ago
    Quoted from Coyote:

    Other than CPR, the only other person making them is Mirco, yes.

    ok, I was hoping it was the new guy, still mirco makes a good repro pf

    #59 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    ok, I was hoping it was the new guy, still mirco makes a good repro pf

    If you're meaning Peter, he's going HS2 fields now, and has a couple planned for the next year, but no TAF (as far as I know..)

    #60 1 year ago
    Quoted from Coyote:

    If you're meaning Peter, he's going HS2 fields now, and has a couple planned for the next year, but no TAF (as far as I know..)

    He seems really cool, and nice, plus his first efforts are really good. his quality is right up there! I forget the name of his company. I should know this stuff, but lately I havent had the scratch for buying stock to have around, so I ventured out of the compound much

    #61 1 year ago

    Peter's website is www.perfectplayfields.com. He's here on pinside under buthamburg. I think that's the company name, too.

    I see he's started screen-printing plastics and cabinet decals as well.

    #62 1 year ago
    Quoted from cletus:

    Peter's website is http://www.perfectplayfields.com. He's here on pinside under buthamburg. I think that's the company name, too.
    I see he's started screen-printing plastics and cabinet decals as well.

    There is some good info.
    wanted to say a couple of reminders:

    if you ever buy a repro from one of the manufactures, and you have had enough experience to know you are going to want one of my sweet-assed clearcoats, you may have them ship it directly here to save money on shipping. There is one pf maker who tends to send ones that have clear issues when they are going straight to me, which is not really a problem. It is a problem when I buy one for me, and it comes with a bad clear because they think I am going to sand it off anyway, but I like to give the customer the choice.

    Also here is a reminder that I drill and dimple NOS pf's that were not done at the factory. some pf's have over 300 dimples on the back, and over 100 on the front plus drill holes. cost ranges from 200-300. If you installing, it will be some of the best money spent. I want to make a template for spy hunter, but I dont have a used pf for it. If anyone in michigan has a used pf that I can borrow or rent, please let me know.

    Thank you for your support. r kruzman playfields

    #63 1 year ago

    The cpr Fish Tales is no longer available.
    AS always , thank you for your support

    4 weeks later
    #64 1 year ago

    Here is a link to septembers thread which explains a lot about about my installation kits for clearcoated pf's, as well as pics.
    The diamond dremmil bits, screw and bit sizer, glue and hypos are still $75, and 7 dollars if you do not buy a pf. I think they are so helpful I wouldnt install a pf without them, and I get a lot of thank you letters about them. here is the link

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nosnew-playfields-available-as-of-june-5

    #65 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    Here is a link to septembers thread which explains a lot about about my installation kits for clearcoated pf's, as well as pics.
    The diamond dremmil bits, screw and bit sizer, glue and hypos are still $75, and 7 dollars if you do not buy a pf. I think they are so helpful I wouldnt install a pf without them, and I get a lot of thank you letters about them. here is the link
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nosnew-playfields-available-as-of-june-5

    Hey Ron,

    Are the bits labeled so that we know which application/size hole the bit was intended for?

    #66 1 year ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    Hey Ron,
    Are the bits labeled so that we know which application/size hole the bit was intended for?

    No they are not, and I will tell you why. there are over 200 bits I chose from, I bought 5 dozen each of 15 bits, and I make a kit of 9 sometimes one more or less. I try to think of the title at hand and make sure there is any special stuff covered, but with thousands of titles, and so many diffrent applications... Plus on most pf's I dont know what screws are going to be used other than obvious stuff that is diffrent. I send round bits of 3 or 4 diffrent widths, I send skinny bits to get in roll over switch slits, I send flat heads for t nut holes, and diffrent sizes of each. each title requires diffrent work. The idea is to make it so your screws, posts, and assemblies are not getting tightened down on clear. This in my opinion is the best way to asemble a pf with clear, since automotive clear is not made to be drilled and have things screwed down on to it

    #67 1 year ago

    Notice for my customers who have pf's here. The weather here in west michigan has been below 12 deg F as out high since about christmas. There is not much work I can do on the clearcoats when it is this cold. I could still do them, but the integrity will be poor, so I choose to wait until it gets above 20 so that the furnace can get it above 70 with the venting.
    I apologize for the inconvenience. feel free to contact me for the current progress on your job. I would like to get them out and get paid as much as you want them back, so I will do my best. this is some serious cold.
    Thank you for your support. ron k

    #68 1 year ago

    Like I keep telling you Ron, you need to move the entire operation into the basement.

    John

    #69 1 year ago


    Quoted from Dayhuff:Like I keep telling you Ron, you need to move the entire operation into the basement.
    John

    I agree over at your house
    So when I visit Ron I can play your pins to make sure there working properly

    #70 1 year ago

    Wanted to post some feedback: Ron cleared a Mirco CV playfield for me recently. The quality of the clear and his communication were fantastic. I just finished the swap and the game is incredible. Also, he helped out a lot with tips on the swap and I found his Dremel and glue kit invaluable for doing a professional job and not lifting the clear.

    Marc

    #71 1 year ago
    Quoted from dhard:

    I agree over at your house
    So when I visit Ron I can play your pins to make sure there working properly

    LOL....we'll that's not exactly what I meant so let me clarify. I've been telling Ron for years how he needs to move his "studio" to HIS basement instead of the out building behind his house. That way he could work on playfields all through out the winter and summer months and keep a better control of the inside temperatures. It wouldn't be that hard to do but so far it's a no go. Maybe someday?

    John

    #72 1 year ago
    Quoted from Dayhuff:

    Like I keep telling you Ron, you need to move the entire operation into the basement.
    John

    Then you can sniff paint and clearcoat all day long.

    #73 1 year ago

    I would love nothing more, heck my life would be so simple, and I would get more than double the work done, not having to process and buy fire wood to keep it over 75 in there, the only problem is the materials I use are carcinogenic AT BEST. you dont have to breath it, it is good enough to just go thru the skin.
    On the other hand, I allready know how I am going to die, if not by my own hand, or a jealous husband. It will be the effect of the clearcoat. I take most all of the precautions... but even the silica from sanding causes lung cancer and plurasy. I do have ac in the shop now, but as for heat, if it could only stay about 20-25 deg which is where it is suppose to be. out ave here is high of 30 right now, and the warmest we have been since about dec 25th is 13. the dam shop cat wont go outside to use the dam bathroom. once I found his stash I got a litter box, that will hopefully work.

    I have 5 jobs that are waiting for their last set of coats.

    It aint easy being a pf OG hustler . The goal is to build a third building (24x50) that is purpose built to restore pf's and GAMES, and keep the building I use now as the dirty shop for sanding, buffing, and packing. First I have to earn more than my monthly morg. It can be done.

    #74 1 year ago
    Quoted from lordloss:

    Hey Ron,
    Are the bits labeled so that we know which application/size hole the bit was intended for?

    I forgot to add, that part of the diamond dremmil and glue kit comes with a stainless sizer for measuring bits, and screws, and widths of anything, so you can use the right bit. you can also use it for a template to draw the circle size you want to remove. It sounds like a simple tool but I didnt have one, and it is priceless. It sure beats guessing the size of drill for predrill and screwing it up.

    Quoted from pintechev:

    Wanted to post some feedback: Ron cleared a Mirco CV playfield for me recently. The quality of the clear and his communication were fantastic. I just finished the swap and the game is incredible. Also, he helped out a lot with tips on the swap and I found his Dremel and glue kit invaluable for doing a professional job and not lifting the clear.
    Marc

    Feedback always helps. I am really happy with how many people have written me about the simple little kit and how much it helps. one little mistake on installing a pf can be very costly, and the kits really help.

    #75 1 year ago

    Still looking for a GI pf, ideally with the inserts still in tact.

    #76 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    He seems really cool, and nice, plus his first efforts are really good. his quality is right up there! I forget the name of his company. I should know this stuff, but lately I havent had the scratch for buying stock to have around, so I ventured out of the compound much

    Ron, to clarify something from one of your other posts - are your installation kits not needed for the type of clear that Peter uses? I have a F14 repro from him I'm going to install sometime this year and want to be sure to get the kit if I need it.

    #77 1 year ago

    Here is a good way to tell. look at the dimpling. when you pre-drill the holes if you are going to be drilling in to any clear, I would use the kits. All of the repro pf's are auto clear I believe, his defiantly looks like it. drilling in to clear is hap hazard at best, it chips , cracks, and you dont want to tighten down on it.
    That is my opinion, and the process I use to install. everyone does it diffrent.

    Another thing you can do it try without and if you have any halos around your holes, or are having problems with the clear, then pick up the kit. That way you dont waste any moulah. although there is one tool in there that is very handy dandy for measuring screws and bits, but not worth buying the entire kit for, honestly.

    great question

    #78 1 year ago
    Quoted from bobukcat:

    Ron, to clarify something from one of your other posts - are your installation kits not needed for the type of clear that Peter uses? I have a F14 repro from him I'm going to install sometime this year and want to be sure to get the kit if I need it.

    I am going to be swapping a Mirco TOM later this year and bought Rons kit, everybody I trust who has done swaps with and without the kit say I would be foolish to attempt it without...

    #79 1 year ago

    Take your time Ron and don’t freeze to death trying to finish our playfields!

    #80 1 year ago
    Quoted from cosmokramer:

    I am going to be swapping a Mirco TOM later this year and bought Rons kit, everybody I trust who has done swaps with and without the kit say I would be foolish to attempt it without...

    Make sure to post some pics on this thread if it is one of my pf's or even if you use my kit. I love to see the pics of the pf's installed. That cv that was swapped 2 weeks ago came out amazing!!!!1

    #81 1 year ago

    Here you go!

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    #82 1 year ago

    That is awesome work!!!!!!!!!!!

    #83 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    There is some good info.
    wanted to say a couple of reminders:
    if you ever buy a repro from one of the manufactures, and you have had enough experience to know you are going to want one of my sweet-assed clearcoats, you may have them ship it directly here to save money on shipping. There is one pf maker who tends to send ones that have clear issues when they are going straight to me, which is not really a problem. It is a problem when I buy one for me, and it comes with a bad clear because they think I am going to sand it off anyway, but I like to give the customer the choice.
    Also here is a reminder that I drill and dimple NOS pf's that were not done at the factory. some pf's have over 300 dimples on the back, and over 100 on the front plus drill holes. cost ranges from 200-300. If you installing, it will be some of the best money spent. I want to make a template for spy hunter, but I dont have a used pf for it. If anyone in michigan has a used pf that I can borrow or rent, please let me know.
    Thank you for your support. r kruzman playfields

    But Ron my BOP pf that I got from Peter didn't develop problems (shrunken clear rings around most all inserts) until about 8 months after I bought it. If you would have cleared it right away from him would I still have the same problem 8 months later?

    #84 1 year ago

    Ron I need !
    Gottlieb Eldorado
    Harlem Globetrotters
    High Speed
    City Slicker (Bally)
    Gorgar

    #85 1 year ago

    Ron , were is the best place to buy a Monster Bash playfield to send to you ? Regards , Rob Knapp

    #86 1 year ago
    Quoted from RobKnapp:

    Ron , were is the best place to buy a Monster Bash playfield to send to you ? Regards , Rob Knapp

    Hi rob, if you do it this month, it can be shipped with your IJ. when I buy mirco pf's I buy them from bay area because then you can return them if they have stupid flaws (and that happens) for the most part mirco stuff is good quality, but it is not uncommon for so huge flaws to get shipped. if you get it arranged you can have it shipped directly here. it would help if you could figure out how long they have had it to see if it needs to cure some more. just let me know

    #87 1 year ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    But Ron my BOP pf that I got from Peter didn't develop problems (shrunken clear rings around most all inserts) until about 8 months after I bought it. If you would have cleared it right away from him would I still have the same problem 8 months later?

    With reproduction pf's your guess is as good as mine. they act funny, and never consistent. I do the only thing I can really do which is to let them sit for a couple months. usually I sand off the clear to help it dry faster. I have waited 4 months on a FT repro, and cleared it over a 14 week period, allowing my sets of 2 coats cure for over 2 weeks per, and 6 months after I am done the inserts raise or sink a little. its so frustrating after spending almost 3 days, wet sanding and polishing it to glass like finish.

    Nos pf's never pull this crap, in fact stern pfs dont do it. I actually have given up except for what I do already which I mentioned. wait until it is more than a couple months old, and spread my coats over 12-14 weeks and wait 3 weeks after the last coat. what else can I do. I also use materials that dont produce as much heat when polishing and I cool the surface constantly while polishing. the heat from the friction makes the inserts expand faster than the wood, causing them to be able to felt a little with your finger.

    #88 1 year ago

    A lot of folks are emailing me about my clearcoated pf install kits. They are only helpfull I believe, with repro and cleared pf's.
    if you are interested and want info take a look at my old post. the first 4 pages has a lot of info
    cost is 75 for both kits and the measuring tool. shipping is 8 dollars

    read pages 1 thru 4
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nosnew-playfields-available-as-of-june-5/page/6#post-4020939

    #89 1 year ago

    So if a guy were to buy a FT playfield and give her the ole Kruzman clear coat service what would that cost?

    #90 1 year ago
    Quoted from davijc02:

    So if a guy were to buy a FT playfield and give her the ole Kruzman clear coat service what would that cost?

    as for cost, you will want to contact me, at ronkruzman@comcast.net.
    It depends on if it is a nos or a repro and which title, also if it needs touch up, which is not a problem. Right now I am only doing clearcoats on new /repro/nos pf's, and many need paint, either from flaws or, lifted inserts that get sanded when I remove the existing clear. I also seal the back with poly. It will take some time because I give each set of 2 coats 15 days to cure, then sand, hand sand, clean and spray. after the last coats I allow 3 weeks to cure and hand sand the entire pf from 1000-3000 then buff and polish for more than a day, then clean out all of the little holes and then apply wax. $575 is the cost. If I have to do paint work it is hourly.

    I have been working on a paragon that is nos forever now, and even though it is nos I have a little over 60 man-hours in to it, before clearing. I had to glue all inserts. (some were loose and out) all of the insert edges get sanded when I sand off the original lacquer, and since the key lines are not lined up with the inserts, the edges of the inserts are usually over in the colors. so not only do I have to paint new circles I have to paint the color around them, plus there is chips and scratches. The holes for the inline drops were not centered with the art so they got painted, plus all of the line work in the center paragon inserts. You have to do this stuff so the new paint on the inserts will not stand out as new. The pf had 5 inserts that had to be sanded and new decals put on,which I still have to install and then paint in. plus leveling the other inserts is huge work. I Just have to tighten up the paint for the first coats to go down. I still have to tighten my circles and a couple other things before clear, I was just excited to finally show the customer the progress. My point is how much work you have to do to make the old bally pf's look good. In some cases a reproduction is not a bad idea if you have to sell the game. If you plan to keep it forever, I say pay for a NOS to get perfected

    para 1 (resized).jpg

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    #91 1 year ago

    Thanks for the reply. One day I may want to give my FT a full makeover. My current playfield has one of the large decals placed over the stringer Kid fish. The inserts art was scraped off and the insert novus’d. Also has other spots that are in need of repair. All of which is probably repairable but would take many hours so buying a reproduction is probably cheaper in the long run.

    #92 1 year ago

    In the case you describe I recommend the reproduction. That repro title for some reason didn't hold up too well. all 7 that I had, looked very different 4-6 months after received. the wood grain rose very much and the clear on the inserts dropped very much. I say that because kev insisted that the inserts themselves did not move. so if you get a chance, ask about inserts and wood grain, also if you set it on the floor a little harder than feather touch, the clear will ghost off the wood. I have this prob with FT TOTAN and MEDUSA.
    I can fix almost all of this stuff except the ghosting. in that case I drill a super small hole in it, and use my glue kit.
    Point is, ask lots of questions when buying one, dont go by the metal standard grading

    #93 1 year ago

    Ron, I look forward to seeing Pictures of EBD/Spy Hunter
    After those I will have you do Gold Strike/ Atlantis/Sky Jump

    #94 1 year ago
    Quoted from davijc02:

    Thanks for the reply. One day I may want to give my FT a full makeover. My current playfield has one of the large decals placed over the stringer Kid fish. The inserts art was scraped off and the insert novus’d. Also has other spots that are in need of repair. All of which is probably repairable but would take many hours so buying a reproduction is probably cheaper in the long run.

    If you have Ron do a repro play field, it will still more than likely need some paint work, so expect a couple hours additional for that. When you sand, sometimes the inserts can lift, and they crack the paint, or there are other weird flaws. And you need to be super careful when installing because Ron lays down several thick coats of clear. Be super careful. But the play field will be PERFECT when you get it.

    #95 1 year ago

    Actually its 8 thin coats.
    Update the gottlieb knockout pf was sold on ebay today. I hate that 15% pimp for epay and paypal. It adds up when the price is 800.

    I just bought a nos DE simpsons pf that I am going to dimple and drill. every insert has cracked paint and 3 of them popped out during shipping, so it will take a lot of time. If I cant get my money out of it, I am looking for a game right now and possibly install it for me. Love that title.

    I would like to do a couple more centaurs. if anyone has any cpr repros and wants to sell or trade, let me know as well as any other new title. I am down to almost no stock.

    There is a nos forepower for sale here on pinside and epay that I really want, but it needs to be dimpled, and cleared, plus there will be some paint work when leveled and the finish removed. Its more than I can afford, but if you want a sweet firepower, you should consider it

    #96 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    Actually its 8 thin coats.

    I stand corrected!

    #97 1 year ago

    I’d potentially be interested in the DE Simpsons once it’s done if the price is right

    #98 1 year ago

    As for the simpsons price, it wont be cheap. Its going to require a lot of paint to make it look awesome. I could clear it as is and sell it cheap for a profit, but it would be the first time I cleared a pf that was not perfected. On that title most of the inserts or half of them, are under big art, rather than inserts that are round circles with key lines around them. In that case many times, after I sand I can just paint the black key line, which will cover the edge of the insert that will be cracked, or get sanded. On old pf's the paint around th einserts cracks, and it is just not acceptable to me. Many many people dont care or notice, its the first thing I see. I I allready know that since it is from 89 I think, I will reglue the inserts (without removing them) drill and dimple, but between the flippers there is the shoot again insert under barts face, as well as the inserts in the middle under all of the characters on the couch. I dont do touch up, I repaint the entire color effected. point is there is going to be a lot of work. since I have been backlogged for over 10 years I have been avoiding jobs with a lot of paint work because people dont want to pay for how many hours it takes me, but now I just have to start charging and it is what it is. I have been making under 20 g a year since doing this, and I am pretty sure I do some of the better work, so I have to give my self a raise, and the folks that support me are just going to have to pay a little more. otherwise I will get my first day off that I dont feel guilty in over 10 years. Not one vacation. so I never know the price until I do the sanding and get it level, and get the old laquer off. I know it will be at least 1800.
    anyway, as always, I want to thank all of my supporters and the people who follow this thread. cheers, rk

    #99 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    I have been making under 20 g a year since doing this,

    I don't know how you can live on that. That's what I was making in 1978.

    #100 1 year ago
    Quoted from kruzman:

    As for the simpsons price, it wont be cheap. Its going to require a lot of paint to make it look awesome. I could clear it as is and sell it cheap for a profit, but it would be the first time I cleared a pf that was not perfected. On that title most of the inserts or half of them, are under big art, rather than inserts that are round circles with key lines around them. In that case many times, after I sand I can just paint the black key line, which will cover the edge of the insert that will be cracked, or get sanded. On old pf's the paint around th einserts cracks, and it is just not acceptable to me. Many many people dont care or notice, its the first thing I see. I I allready know that since it is from 89 I think, I will reglue the inserts (without removing them) drill and dimple, but between the flippers there is the shoot again insert under barts face, as well as the inserts in the middle under all of the characters on the couch. I dont do touch up, I repaint the entire color effected. point is there is going to be a lot of work. since I have been backlogged for over 10 years I have been avoiding jobs with a lot of paint work because people dont want to pay for how many hours it takes me, but now I just have to start charging and it is what it is. I have been making under 20 g a year since doing this, and I am pretty sure I do some of the better work, so I have to give my self a raise, and the folks that support me are just going to have to pay a little more. otherwise I will get my first day off that I dont feel guilty in over 10 years. Not one vacation. so I never know the price until I do the sanding and get it level, and get the old laquer off. I know it will be at least 1800.
    anyway, as always, I want to thank all of my supporters and the people who follow this thread. cheers, rk

    Keep me posted as I’m looking to do a full high end restore and most playfields on this title are shot so this would be great....and if I know now I can get saving!!

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