Saint Paul, MN
Hi Ron, when I got my new BoP repro last year it was perfect, when I pulled it out of the box a few days ago almost all the inserts had sunken clear around them. I need your help.
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Quoted from kruzman:I just got done cleaning the compound out of the cut outs of a BoP repro that had the same issue. I cleared it allowing 2 weeks between sets of 2 coats, then before I block sanded it I waited 4 weeks. The clear had settled a little bit in the inserts. Thats the reason it takes me so long, because I hate that effect, and it is going to cause wear eventually. some repros continue to get the lines around the inserts even after I cleared them. It seems like cpr has improved their process in the last release or 2 that I have done. These pics are after running a rag thru all of the holes. I still have to wipe the pf clean and then polish one more time, then apply a wax. I just took th epics to show what it looks like after waiting the time before sanding it level.
Thanks Ron. CPR didn't do BoP Peter in Germany did. Do you know what clear he used? Would you use an eye dropper to fill those low spots around the inserts first? Here's a couple shots of mine. A CSI playfield I have was recleared about 10 years ago and is still as smooth as a piece of glass, it's perfect, I wonder if you did it. 
I would LOVE to have my BoP look like that.
3 weeks later
Quoted from tezting:It sounds a little negative. Does he not do a good job?
He does but I heard back from him and he basicly said it is what it is and that it's normal. If it's normal why aren't my newer Stern games doing the same thing, they are still perfect. No one else who bought a BoP pf is having my problem that I've heard of so it looks like I have the only one. 
Quoted from kruzman:Concerning the german maker of pf's that made f14 and BoP, I forgot his name. I like his work. his wood seems better than average, his print seems very good, his clear is good production clear. MY Bop had the same clear experience as mustang pauls after it cured.
Right now I have a customer, literally up my butt. " can I come pick up my pf this weekend?????" after I have told him several times he will be the first to know when it is done; I have explained the longer I take the better clear coat he gets, but I dont think it computes
The longer you take between coats, and after the last coat before you sand level and polish (which they dont do in production unless there is an imperfection that needs to be fixed) the less the clear will shrink and move with the pf. It is a hard surface on a soft surface, and wood is always moving. The production makers can not wait 2 weeks between coats like I can although, even though it makes the best, hardest surface, some people have to have it done yesterday. I no longer accept deadlines. thats because I am not going to compromise my work even if the customer wants me to. My name is one it, and if the pf or game sells my name sticks with it.
Anyway, your issue, paul, happens to all of them to one degree or another. I haven't seen a cpr not do it, in about 4 years. Mirco does it also, and the Wiz of oz pf I just started was really bad. the clear on the inserts sunk soo bad I didnt think I was going to be able to level it. (I did, but wow).
There are people who have flamed me hard for saying this, but if you want a super nice flat surface (I do )to install, it will have to be redone by someone who can let it cure for long periods between thin coats.
On a different topic, I think everyone should make an avitar of their pet rather than their game for a month or so I think it would be hilarious.
Thanks for this Ron, who in their right mind would argue with a Pro like you. Like I said before, I have a CSI hanging on the wall that was cleared at least 10 years ago and it reflects images like a mirror, right next to it is a new stock WOZ that's about 4 years old that looks really nice for stock clear but still no where near as mirror like as the CSI. Next to the WOZ is a stock LOTR that looks like crap and needs a professional clear job. Ron's the Pro and you just can't argue with him.
I don't have a pet, I have a Mustang car, it's already in my avatar. 
Quoted from tezting:I will not install it for the next months and will see how it changes.
I'd wait at least 6-9 months. But that's just me.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Well ive always had my best buddy as my avatar. His name is Gizmo and he is now 16 and other than losing a bit of his sight and most of his hearing, he is still an amazing dog but i know that he will not be with me for a lot longer and its going to devastate me when he goes. Alas... the price you pay for the love you get.
WOW 16, he's been around a long time.
1 week later
Quoted from KornFreak28:I got very few holes left to pre-drill (with Ron's dremmel bits) on my IJ but I will post pics of the how the glue is applied. It's actually pretty neat. Seals the clear for good. The dremmel bits make pre-drilling holes so easy! I really like how the dremmel bits never skip or "run" away from the hole. As long as you keep light pressure on the dremmel, you are fine. Needless to say, you must be VERY careful when handling a dremmel tool on or near your playfield. Always make sure you have plenty of slack on the cord while you are using your dremmel tool. I never power on the dremmel on top or near my playfield just to be on the safe side and avoid any "accidents". I'll post pics later
What speed did you have your Dremel at? Does speed make any difference?
Question for ya Ron, is it possible to polish the mylar pieces that come stock on a pf? I tried Novis 2 by hand and it helped a little.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Good question Paul. Im curious also as Ive never had any luck over the years trying to nicely clean up old mylar.
Yeah, the pf of my Jackbot is damn near perfect except for the mylar in front of the slings and around the pops. It's REALLY distracting, to me anyways to have such a beautiful 22 year old stock pf with those dingy areas. I wonder if Novis 3 would do anything. 
Only one way to find out......wish me luck. 
Quoted from Yelobird:Paul, Superbee, I have always used the Treasure Cove Polishing kit on mylar as well as the playfield and the result is Amazing! Looks as good as new and not that hard to do. Strongly recommend.
Hmmmm where do you get it?
Quoted from Yelobird:You could just google Treasure Cove Pinball. They have been in business in Indiana for 20 years I believe. Not sure if still the case since their father passed but they were by most considered the Premier pinball restoration crew. Now there are others that just blow my mind with perfection. Check out their site and the videos. I am certain you can find Hundreds of referrals that use this kit with amazing results.
Yeah I'll do that. Google is your friend.
Quoted from Yelobird:You could just google Treasure Cove Pinball. They have been in business in Indiana for 20 years I believe. Not sure if still the case since their father passed but they were by most considered the Premier pinball restoration crew. Now there are others that just blow my mind with perfection. Check out their site and the videos. I am certain you can find Hundreds of referrals that use this kit with amazing results.
Just ordered the kit. Thanks. Sorry about highjacking your thread Ron. 
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I am not sure if these pictures do it justice vs in person but this is the stunning playfield I just received from Ron Kruzman. It is a Micro repro monster bash - the repro is very good, and although I wish I could have gotten one NOS this is an outstanding PF. Can't wait to finish the cab and get this thing in there. Wow!!
Super. 
Try laying it flat on a table by a window, you'll get a nice reflection of the window on the pf for a picture.
Quoted from kruzman:good idea on the pic angle. Personally, I still havent figured out a good way to show the work in the clear
A long florescent bulb over the pf works nice. I did a Kruzman quality clear job using Triple Thick on the back of my Jack Bot bb light board. What do ya all think.
Quoted from kruzman:I want to get a jackbot some day. So if you ever have to get rid of it and want to sell to someone who will offer it back to you when and if I sell it.
I am one of the few who thinks that is the best of the trilogy, and I much prefer sys 11 games. Anyway I just listed one of my jackbot pf's on epay. It took me all day to list 16 pf's, including taking the pics and downloading everything.
Also I am the only person who uses more than 1 pic taken from 6 ft away, and I describe all of the flaws. so that takes some time. 99% of the pf's I buy on ebay. 1 or 2 pics from far away, or 2 of the same pics, no description, except maybe see pics (when there is only one pic).
What a pain in the groin! and waste of a day. no pf's done today
I'll keep that in mind Ron but with what I'm gonna be putting into it no one in there right mind would buy it......and I WOULD NOT sell it (if I did) at a loss. The only way my pf could be better was if you did a clear job on it.
Quoted from kruzman:Keep in mind that I took these pics with a phone that is about 6 years old and when I bought it, I only paid 29 bucks for it.
This is the complete centaur for sale. I have several of these I bought with no clear. if you know this reproduction you will notice the work I did around all of the arrow inserts, and well as about 10 of the circles
WOW!!!! Like absolute mirrors. 
Are you sure you didn't just put a piece of glass on them for the pictures. 
1 month later
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