They make really fine nozels to put on the end of the glue bottle. I have used them for years but they are over 50 cents each and they leak where they fit on the bottle, and they are easy to make a huge mistake. I have 20 years experience with using those dam needles, that same size, inter muscular, and they really hurt. My point is with very little practice you can run that needle with one hand, I even suck up the extra clear sometimes if I lay too much like in a t nut divot. The eyelet is big enough that you can see it clearly as to what way it is going to go.
It is illegal in about half of the states to possess those needles without a script.

Thank you for those pics and the demonstration. also your nail/screws are perfect. dont draw them down more. I did a set once that was below the grade, and it will attract dirt in there.
There are threads that go thru pf installation, which I have said before I am not a pro at. I define pro meaning do it for a living/have very much experience (years). I wanted the pics of the process using my 2 kits up because I cant do close up pics like that and use my hands at the same time, but I dont want this to be a pf instillation thread. The pf's on the first page are for sale, and I clear pf's. The kits are just to help customers, who like myself are not pros.
As always I thank my supporters. rk

ATTENTION: Here is some important INFO:
I wanted to mention: Many people who have worked with me before, and have bought cpr pf's, know that they are going to have it clear by me and want to save 60 bucks by having cpr send them directly to me. That is not a problem at all, as long as you realize I have to let them cure here for a while. I sand off the clear as much as I can, but then they still need to sit. its you best interest.
Kevin has no problem sending them here.
I am not saying that all cpr pf's need to be recleared, I am not saying anything about cpr at all, except that you can save money if you want to do that.

ummhum. but we are not suppose to speak of it. I dont know why.

I just received an email from a customer who is almost done installing one of my FH pf;s, and it looks awesome. FH is one of the first games people started restoring, along with TAF back in like 06, when I was really getting in to it. A restored FH with my clear and new plastics and ramps is so beautiful. The one I remember the most was done by a guy in dearborne by a great guy named John..... he was good friends with Eric A who is also in dearborn. Crap he is passed away and I can never remember his last name, hopefully someone will remind me. My brain is shot. Anyway they did an amazing job on that game.

I realized I have been forgetting to remind people to use mylar under anywhere a ball drops on the pf. Like a wire form ball return, or a ramp with a hole that drops the ball.
I sell lo tac mylar, that is thin, and basically invisible. It will last several years, and then when you are ready to do your shop job, you can pull it without tools. It is perfect for late model sterns, between pop bumpers, shooter lanes, and ball hole kick outs.

When I install it I custom cut it so that the edges are on top of black key lines. this makes it very hard to notice, also if I can make one side end under a plastic, i will use a bigger piece to do so. The price is 4 sheeets for 10$ I will sell 2 for $5, but you are better off having the stuff around. If you take your game to a show for free play which everyone should at some time, you can put this stuff everywhere. even around flipper buttons. My metallica premium has a big nail or ring scratch on one of the flipper areas.

I always feel uncomfortable when I am sending a customer an invoice and the bill gets larger and larger because I highly suggest these extra things, but I only sell what I think is super important, and is not available easily, or easy to find, or easy to describe. I used to describe to people a list of what they had to go out and get, including wax and polish, but the time and effort to describe everything and where to get it, seemed counterproductive. so what I do is add this stuff on the invoice, as things I highly recommend, and then tell them to just remove what they dont want, and make a note of the new math. If I were on the customer end I would rather get it all at once, and I would rather be sure I got the right stuff.

I had one customer who wouldnt but my diamond dremmil bits because of the price I imagine, so he bought his own. what he bought was diamond tipped drill bits for cement! and he wrecked the pf. dead serious. He sent me pics because he thought my clear was defective. It was not the clear come to find out.

The savings is not as bad as how bad he screwed up the pf. I used to use those bits that are super dull and made for use with a hammer drill at slow speed. the diamond is not for being sharp, because they are not at all, they are very dull, just VERY hard. wrecked it

I dont have any more blown out pfs except one sea witch which is missing 50% of the paint. price is 70 bucks. Plus there is shipping.All of the used pfs I have, were bought to restore. So they are all nice pf's that are very restorable. they can be wall art until you fix them up but the cheapest is going to run around 200 up to 575 for a safecracker, or 850 for a IJ. I have afm and creech and other a titles for 250-350 but I dont have time to pull them all, clean them up, take pics load them up, research the prices. I all ready do that with the nos/repro pf's.
There is a reason I dont like to sell non perfect pf's. here is what happened lately. I bought a really cool rare nos pf for a game I have wanted for about 8 years and never seen for sale. The week I bought it someone called on it. I sent the buyer 6 or 7 pics, and I said It needs work and clear I dont have time. I sell it for cost, since I just got it that week, when the buyer got it, and got estimates to get it fixed up and cleared. they were 900. Thats what I expected for a 47 years old 550 or 650 dollar pf. He did not. Plus he felt that you cant sink that much money in a game that only sells for what it sells for (before getting a cleared nos pf installed) Anyway the customer is not happy wants to return it, but now the pf dosent look the same as when it was shipped out. I dont know what happened to it, but I seriously doubt it had to do with shipping because I spent over an hour packing it. so with the cost of shipping and time involved,I dont want it back. the customer is going to keep the pf plus I will be sending him 200 dollars (when I get it). So this is my experience with selling non perfect pf's and selling at cost.After I offered 200 to make the whole thing dissappear, I didnt get a response for a month. Then I get a call that he will take the 200, which happened about the day I put up the post about how I have used pf's. Which brings us back to why I am posting this. The used pf's. I dont feel like the trouble of giving away money I dont have. He agreed to accept the money when I get the next check in.

By the way if this story is giving you ideas, dont. I am done fixing the repro pf makers flaws for free and I am done with refunds. People who dont trust me can buy them on ebay or at wallmart. Heck, there is a guy on ebay right now selling pf's he says I cleared. I asked ebay and him to take my name off. No suck luck.I have been doing this long enough to have built a customer base of trusting people. The reason I dont have the 200 for the pay off is the month of aug, I didnt get to do any paying jobs because the humidity caused a very minuscule defect in my clear on 6 pf's and instead of being like one of the companies who makes repros and saying thats the way it is suppose to be or it is a bronze, I re did them all. a month without pay, and I am still not done. so that is the root of the hissy fit her

I didnt write this to complain about the person who bought the pf I was referring to I was just using it as an example of why I dont have any interest or can I afford to mess around with anything that is not perfect. Since this post is very good in that it is helping a lot of people with installation, you may notice its been a while since I posted a title is no longer available, so I am going to use it for my hissy fit fourm today sorry.

as always I thank my supporters

Here is a very nice used afm. I have sanded it down, and I knocked down the high points like where screws were removed from. I prepped and fixed the ball hole damage with jb weld which I have found over the year as the only thing to use that wont pop off or damage. If you see some spots on the inserts they are low spots that need to be hand sanded. right now they are glossy because they are lower than grade. 2 thin coats and then sand will make it all level. This one is as easy as afm restorations get. price is 400 or best.
Examine the pics and ask questions if interested. 90% of the pfs I buy they send me 4 pics, all the same pic from 6 ft away, and I cant even tell if it is dimpled or not. If you are new to the pf game, and people only show 1-3 pics, 99% chance you will get a big suprise. It still happens to me all of the time.

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couple more pics

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