Newmarket, ON
Quoted from tezting:It sounds a little negative. Does he not do a good job?
Hope they are nice. I'm fully paid and awaiting my Getaway playfield.
(Topic ID: 190715)
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Quoted from SUPERBEE:Hope they are nice. I'm fully paid and awaiting my Getaway playfield.
Wait, has he asked for payment? I sent in deposit, hadn't heard anything since June..
Quoted from Coyote:Wait, has he asked for payment? I sent in deposit, hadn't heard anything since June.
Well I've been making payments a bit each month. He just sent me an email stating they should be ready to ship at some point in early sept. He will probably be reaching out to everyone to complete payments before shipping.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Well I've been making payments a bit each month. He just sent me an email stating they should be ready to ship at some point in early sept. He will probably be reaching out to everyone to complete payments before shipping.
Thans for letting me know. I'll follow up.
Sorry for jumping off-topic, Ron.
Saint Paul, MN
Quoted from tezting:It sounds a little negative. Does he not do a good job?
He does but I heard back from him and he basicly said it is what it is and that it's normal. If it's normal why aren't my newer Stern games doing the same thing, they are still perfect. No one else who bought a BoP pf is having my problem that I've heard of so it looks like I have the only one. 
Concerning the german maker of pf's that made f14 and BoP, I forgot his name. I like his work. his wood seems better than average, his print seems very good, his clear is good production clear. MY Bop had the same clear experience as mustang pauls after it cured.
Right now I have a customer, literally up my butt. " can I come pick up my pf this weekend?????" after I have told him several times he will be the first to know when it is done; I have explained the longer I take the better clear coat he gets, but I dont think it computes
The longer you take between coats, and after the last coat before you sand level and polish (which they dont do in production unless there is an imperfection that needs to be fixed) the less the clear will shrink and move with the pf. It is a hard surface on a soft surface, and wood is always moving. The production makers can not wait 2 weeks between coats like I can although, even though it makes the best, hardest surface, some people have to have it done yesterday. I no longer accept deadlines. thats because I am not going to compromise my work even if the customer wants me to. My name is one it, and if the pf or game sells my name sticks with it.
Anyway, your issue, paul, happens to all of them to one degree or another. I haven't seen a cpr not do it, in about 4 years. Mirco does it also, and the Wiz of oz pf I just started was really bad. the clear on the inserts sunk soo bad I didnt think I was going to be able to level it. (I did, but wow).
There are people who have flamed me hard for saying this, but if you want a super nice flat surface (I do )to install, it will have to be redone by someone who can let it cure for long periods between thin coats.
On a different topic, I think everyone should make an avitar of their pet rather than their game for a month or so I think it would be hilarious.
Quoted from kruzman:Concerning the german maker of pf's that made f14 and BoP, I forgot his name. I like his work. his wood seems better than average, his print seems very good, his clear is good production clear. MY Bop had the same clear experience as mustang pauls after it cured.
Right now I have a customer, literally up my butt. " can I come pick up my pf this weekend?????" after I have told him several times he will be the first to know when it is done; I have explained the longer I take the better clear coat he gets, but I dont think it computes
The longer you take between coats, and after the last coat before you sand level and polish (which they dont do in production unless there is an imperfection that needs to be fixed) the less the clear will shrink and move with the pf. It is a hard surface on a soft surface, and wood is always moving. The production makers can not wait 2 weeks between coats like I can although, even though it makes the best, hardest surface, some people have to have it done yesterday. I no longer accept deadlines. thats because I am not going to compromise my work even if the customer wants me to. My name is one it, and if the pf or game sells my name sticks with it.
Anyway, your issue, paul, happens to all of them to one degree or another. I haven't seen a cpr not do it, in about 4 years. Mirco does it also, and the Wiz of oz pf I just started was really bad. the clear on the inserts sunk soo bad I didnt think I was going to be able to level it. (I did, but wow).
There are people who have flamed me hard for saying this, but if you want a super nice flat surface (I do )to install, it will have to be redone by someone who can let it cure for long periods between thin coats.
On a different topic, I think everyone should make an avitar of their pet rather than their game for a month or so I think it would be hilarious.
Thank you for the clarification. I have a T2 from him and think it looks awesome. I will not install it for the next months and will see how it changes.
Would you think that a sand and buff is enough or do you recommend sand and new clear? (By you)
Quoted from kruzman:Concerning the german maker of pf's that made f14 and BoP, I forgot his name. I like his work. his wood seems better than average, his print seems very good, his clear is good production clear. MY Bop had the same clear experience as mustang pauls after it cured.
Right now I have a customer, literally up my butt. " can I come pick up my pf this weekend?????" after I have told him several times he will be the first to know when it is done; I have explained the longer I take the better clear coat he gets, but I dont think it computes
The longer you take between coats, and after the last coat before you sand level and polish (which they dont do in production unless there is an imperfection that needs to be fixed) the less the clear will shrink and move with the pf. It is a hard surface on a soft surface, and wood is always moving. The production makers can not wait 2 weeks between coats like I can although, even though it makes the best, hardest surface, some people have to have it done yesterday. I no longer accept deadlines. thats because I am not going to compromise my work even if the customer wants me to. My name is one it, and if the pf or game sells my name sticks with it.
Anyway, your issue, paul, happens to all of them to one degree or another. I haven't seen a cpr not do it, in about 4 years. Mirco does it also, and the Wiz of oz pf I just started was really bad. the clear on the inserts sunk soo bad I didnt think I was going to be able to level it. (I did, but wow).
There are people who have flamed me hard for saying this, but if you want a super nice flat surface (I do )to install, it will have to be redone by someone who can let it cure for long periods between thin coats.
On a different topic, I think everyone should make an avitar of their pet rather than their game for a month or so I think it would be hilarious.
Thanks for this Ron, who in their right mind would argue with a Pro like you. Like I said before, I have a CSI hanging on the wall that was cleared at least 10 years ago and it reflects images like a mirror, right next to it is a new stock WOZ that's about 4 years old that looks really nice for stock clear but still no where near as mirror like as the CSI. Next to the WOZ is a stock LOTR that looks like crap and needs a professional clear job. Ron's the Pro and you just can't argue with him.
I don't have a pet, I have a Mustang car, it's already in my avatar. 
Quoted from tezting:I will not install it for the next months and will see how it changes.
I'd wait at least 6-9 months. But that's just me. 
I agree the mustang is a pet. I am just suggesting it since we all know what the games we like look like. I just like the idea of the pic being more personal and I love animals. I am trying to figure out a pic for my avitar. I have been thinking about it for years. The only camera I have now is a phone and the screen is shattered, so the whole pic thing for me lately just sucks.
Back to pinball. I have tried many times to sand a pf flat and then polish it back to clear. It worked fine on the old mircos, back when he used to slather the clear on, but most pf's dont have enough meat to sand level, and then play it. Plus when you sand it level, it usually goes down enough to cause cracks around the inserts, which are "no way out of the question" for me. so unless it is a mirco, I dont recommend it, and I say this from experience.
Thank you paul for the support and kind words. back to the coal mine
Well ive always had my best buddy as my avatar. His name is Gizmo and he is now 16 and other than losing a bit of his sight and most of his hearing, he is still an amazing dog but i know that he will not be with me for a lot longer and its going to devastate me when he goes. Alas... the price you pay for the love you get.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Well ive always had my best buddy as my avatar. His name is Gizmo and he is now 16 and other than losing a bit of his sight and most of his hearing, he is still an amazing dog but i know that he will not be with me for a lot longer and its going to devastate me when he goes. Alas... the price you pay for the love you get.
WOW 16, he's been around a long time.
Quoted from dhard:Here's a pet picture for ya I heard you where the guest of honor
I dont think Ron can figure out how to get the picture in the little square box.
Quoted from crlush:I dont think Ron can figure out how to get the picture in the little square box.
He's still clear coating it. Little sanding and it will be done.
I am defiantly gonna think about using that sign as my avatar, but the truth is I dont really know how to do it! I still think this internet thing is a fad. I still have my aol address!
There is a fella in ohio who has told 2 people that I have stolen pf's from a friend's estate who passed away early this year. It really bumms me out but there is nothing I can do about what others say or do, but now he is selling the dead mans pf's and other pf's it looks like, calling them Kruzman pf's.n I have received a few letters asking if they are my work, and I can not tell, and will not.
In all other cases you can always contact me and ask if I did so and so pf for so and so and I can confirm.
Good times
Quoted from kruzman:I am defiantly gonna think about using that sign as my avatar, but the truth is I dont really know how to do it! I still think this internet thing is a fad.
Yep and I'm still watching movies on my beta player and listening to music on cassettes
Man ain't we older than dinosaur poo!
Quoted from kruzman:the truth is I dont really know how to do it!
step 1 is to save the image you want to use yo your desktop
Step 2 click on your profile page and then the blue bar to upload your avatar
Quoted from dhard:Yep and I'm still watching movies on my beta player and listening to music on cassettes
Man ain't we older than dinosaur poo!
No you just copied the cassettes to a cd so you can listen to them in your pinhauler
Thanks for the tutorial. As you can see I also have no avatar. I also have aol. I'm going to try the avatar tutorial. By the way AOL just started charging for the aol service so I'm gone as soon as I can set up another email address. They tried this once before. Is gmail the best interface with pinside? Does it have a way to save your favorite websites? Anything else I should know about gmail? By the way. I have a tube TV and none of that fancy cable or satellite stuff. Yes I'm old. To get back in your favor...I do have over 200 pins.
Well you can teach a old dog new trick. The avatar is of a NOS playfield I got from Ron about a month ago. I probably will change it down the road but its fine for now. Thanks again.
Quoted from MustangPaul:WOW 16, he's been around a long time.
Yeah , he is a great ole dog !! Truly a testament to the term "mans best friend".
Its that time of month again. If you are on the fence about a pf, this is a good time to make an offer.
The list on the top of page one is current.
Plus there are pf install kits available.
Drill and dimple service is 225-275 for both sides
Also I have my DALE jr on the market. I am the original owner. aprox 300 plays. It was unboxed and set up in the place it still is, so there are no flaws, its a stock, basically new game $3700
If you are looking to do your own restoration, I have a lot of used pf's I will part with. I used to have over 200 but now it is about 100. Lots of A- titles, all the way to some blown out stuff that can be great wall art.
I would be interested in a PM list of the blown out wall art and prices. Had the crazy idea to do my sons room my pin artesk. Let me know. Thanks.
Me too. I would like to try my hand and practice with an old playfield. If you PM Yelobird, maybe you can copy and paste all the info and PM it to me. Thanks
Don't let them hassle you,I can't figure out how.or,what to put on a avatar!! There are things missing like find your avatar (where?) upload image,(how?)pull,and transfer,(doese'nt compute!)click on image,(never found one I like) 
Ron I'm interested in a install kit but as I requested before I would like to see a picture of whats included. Another pinsider also asked for a picture. I know you have listed what included but not sure I understand what some of the items are. So the best way is to post a picture and the price. Thanks.
Quoted from dhard:Here's a pet picture for ya I heard you where the guest of honor
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Shut the fick up you jersey jack ass
Quoted from dhard:Shut the fick up you jersey jack ass
Pinside Rule #1: No personal attacks. 
There you go, Ron...another free thread bump!
Quoted from beelzeboob:Pinside Rule #1: No personal attacks.
There you go, Ron...another free thread bump!
Pardon me Mr sensitivity all apologies now back to our regular scheduled programming of Ron's excellence of execution of playfield restorations and clear coating and overall general good ambassadorship to pinball society 
Quoted from yfz450:Looking for a Barracora playfield.
have you gotten on the CPR list?
http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html
if not, PLEASE DO!!!
This is one that needs to be moved up from boutique to in the official que
Quoted from Whysnow:have you gotten on the CPR list?
http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html
if not, PLEASE DO!!!
This is one that needs to be moved up from boutique to in the official que
Yup
I am sorry I dont want to post a pic of my kits,. I know right now it is a matter of time before someone takes the Idea I came up with for my customers to have a better experience and figure a way to sell it onhere or ebay cheaper or whatever.
One kit is 8 or 9 different shaped diamond dremmil bits that I chose from like 125 to work the best with applications you come across on pf's. It could be to remove clear to install your mantis ball hole protector (there is a bit for that) to several bits, for where you predrill screws. Now it also comes with another tool I think is super important when doing the task that most people dont have. It a simple piece of stainless steel with 32 holes in it labeling the diffrent sizes in 64ths. so you can quickly size a screw or whatever and know what drill bit to use rather than guess. So that kit is 50$
Every bit as important is the glue kit which is a specific type of glue with large gauge hypodermic needles. This kit is $25.
Because of how much they help me now, I think they are a must have for people who are installing a pf who are not pros like hutchens, not only do I feel better about new clients (who have the 2 kits) doing their first swap after I put 30 some hours of work on to the pf, but I make 10 bucks of each to help keep the lights on here.
I have a friend who does light kits, and when he comes up with a new idea, we have an over under bet, on how long until someone pirates the idea, which I am sure will happen here, but we shall see...
As always I thank my supporters. cheers.
The bride of Pinbot is way gone sorry I cant edit the list, I can only post after the fact what is gone. My apologies to the people who emailed on it in the last few days.
Thanks for the explanation on the kits. I now understand your reluctance to posting pictures of the kit. Your right someone is going to do it anyway someday but I'm pretty sure most pinsiders value your expertise when it comes to playfields and would buy the kit from you.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Ron remind us what the hypo needle kit is for. Dropping clear into inserts?
Post #21 has explanation and pix
Quoted from dhard:Post #21 has explanation and pix
Found it.. thx. My playfield is the one Ron posted pics of a couple months ago. Eager to get going on that swap once the PF gets to me! Hopefully pretty soon - it's on its last stage of clear curing
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Ron remind us what the hypo needle kit is for. Dropping clear into inserts?
I got very few holes left to pre-drill (with Ron's dremmel bits) on my IJ but I will post pics of the how the glue is applied. It's actually pretty neat. Seals the clear for good. The dremmel bits make pre-drilling holes so easy! I really like how the dremmel bits never skip or "run" away from the hole. As long as you keep light pressure on the dremmel, you are fine. Needless to say, you must be VERY careful when handling a dremmel tool on or near your playfield. Always make sure you have plenty of slack on the cord while you are using your dremmel tool. I never power on the dremmel on top or near my playfield just to be on the safe side and avoid any "accidents". I'll post pics later
I believe this is kornfreaks first install. I didnt have a chance to work with him on his pf, but I helped him get started on install plus he did a buttload of research (which is often conflicting) but I could tell after a while of learning how to use the dremmil and glue kit, it lowered the stress factor in his voice 100%. Which I understand a properly restored IJ is worth what?10-15K? I have no idea
Quoted from KornFreak28:I got very few holes left to pre-drill (with Ron's dremmel bits) on my IJ but I will post pics of the how the glue is applied. It's actually pretty neat. Seals the clear for good. The dremmel bits make pre-drilling holes so easy! I really like how the dremmel bits never skip or "run" away from the hole. As long as you keep light pressure on the dremmel, you are fine. Needless to say, you must be VERY careful when handling a dremmel tool on or near your playfield. Always make sure you have plenty of slack on the cord while you are using your dremmel tool. I never power on the dremmel on top or near my playfield just to be on the safe side and avoid any "accidents". I'll post pics later
Do you have the flexible goose neck attachment for the dremel? Best accessory I ever bought.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Do you have the flexible goose neck attachment for the dremel? Best accessory I ever bought.
I don't actually. I hear good things about it though. About the glue kit: To me, the safest way to apply the glue is to (away from the playfield) get a small drop of glue "started" to about half way. It takes very little to get a drop of glue on the tip of the needle so be careful. Hold the drop of glue on the tip of the needle and then apply it to the exposed clear. Just get the drop of glue to touch the exposed area of clear and it will automatically go around the circle and seal it completely
The reason why I like to get a drop of glue "started" away from the playfield is because you can easily misjudge it and squirt more glue than you really want to and you will end up making a mess. You don't want to squirt glue all over your playfield, trust me. Also, I like to hold the needle with one hand and a piece of paper in the other hand under the needle. I use this piece of paper as a "catcher" just in case the glue doesn't stay on the needle and drips down. That way, the glue lands on the piece of paper and not on your playfield. You could call it overkill but I rather play it safe. I'll post pics today after work.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I don't actually. I hear good things about it though. About the glue kit: To me, the safest way to apply the glue is to (away from the playfield) get a small drop of glue "started" to about half way. It takes very little to get a drop of glue on the tip of the needle so be careful. Hold the drop of glue on the tip of the needle and then apply it to the exposed clear. Just get the drop of glue to touch the exposed area and it will automatically make a circle around the exposed clear making a perfect seal.
The reason why I like to get a drop of glue "started" away from the playfield is because you can easily misjudge it and squirt more glue than you really want to and you will end up making a mess. You don't want to squirt glue all over your playfield, trust me. Also, I like to hold the needle with one hand and a piece of paper in the other hand under the needle. I use this piece of paper as a "catcher" in case a drop of glue decides to fall off on its own. That way, the glue lands on the piece of paper and not on your playfield. You could call it overkill but I rather play it safe. I'll post pics today after work.
this is super well-thought-through
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:this is super well-thought-through
I'm a rookie doing my first playfield. I'm sure the real pros would laugh at all the extra steps I'm taking. Just got off work
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