(Topic ID: 267109)

NorthWind ‘er WhirlWind refurb

By northerndude

1 year ago


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  • 117 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by freezie
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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There are 117 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 1 year ago

Yo! Wanted to get this in for my own and hopefully someone else’s reference or ideas!!

This is a thread for mostly my full cabinet Resto on my WhirlWind, I will only need to shop my PF as it has been previously PF swapped and everything already! I bought this pin a couple (few?) years ago now and just now getting to the cabinet as it was my full plan at purchase time. Previous owner smokedog did the PF swap. I bought the cab art a couple years ago with some help from another pinsider helping attain them. They are custom done, and it isn’t the full cab art, I will paint the entire cab and apply the “art only” when completed. This is my second attempt at this type of refurb, I did my Fish Tales a 1.5 year ago or so.

The cab has good bones, the head is ROUGH! Cab is tight, just needs all the sand/full/repeat/sand/prime/paint work. Head needs ALOT of fibreglass resin, fill, etc. If you follow along, cool, I hope you get something out of this.

I have a speaker upgrade already in hand for this, artwork, new lockbar. What I would like is a new coin door as this ones beat up pretty bad, maybe it’ll just be time of elbow grease and a new paint job, I don’t know yet. If I can acquire one for a good enough price, maybe I’ll refurb this and sell at a later date. Also. I need the blue WW paint. I have a good previous paint code one from an awesome pinsider who did his Resto a few years backed. Here’s a few before pics.

It’s about time. LETS GET IT ON
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#2 1 year ago

I remember when smokedog did the pf swap and playing it after at pokeys. great game worth the effort. I’ll be following good luck

#3 1 year ago

Thx. I learned tons doing my FT cabinet. I see this one going so much easier after all I figured and read here on it.

#4 1 year ago

Worth the effort. Make it perfect my dude!

#5 1 year ago

Stripped the main cab this am.
Couple things of note

—need a new open door switch
— rails are totally decent and if I can get them off without a kink or dent, I’ll be pleased and amazed. Has anyone used a clothes iron or anything to heat it up enough to let the old adhesive let go? I’ll tell ya, there isn’t much “give” to these at all, they are firmly in place. I can re grain then and buff them up nicely I think with the tools I have on hand for sure.

—also I have all of the cabinet hardware from a PinBot that a buddy found at the dump of all places and I stripped right down. *mgjt not need to buy all the parts to replace some of the parts

—I already have new flipper cab switches. Old one pitted and mangled. I have new blue translucent flipper switches in hand. New leg bolt cabinet mounts to replace the tiny “usually stripped ones”

—cab corners are friggin tight and unreal shape

—how much pop has gone down the front of this thing?!??

—taking shitloads of pics
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#6 1 year ago

Heatgunned the rails off, little effort, but came off without incident. I’ll spend a day sometime here, clean off tape residue, buffing with different wet sanding grits and make them smoooooth!

#7 1 year ago

Well my numb hand says that I sanded today. I’m pooped, 3 sides and a few pieces of sandpaper. I’ll do the last side tomorrow. Rolled the cab back into the garage.

OH YEAH and..... I’m Blue ba da be
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#8 1 year ago

Finished sanding this am, since I have it vertical. I’m starting some fibreglass resin hole/ding fill ins.

Also, since I learned from last time. When I repaired the area below the leg bolt holes where the most damage is. I had resin slide into the bolt holes, and that was just shit to fix, drill them back out. This time I’m gonna use some spray foam as insurance as fill the holes so the resin can’t pour in, and then I’ll easily remove then foam after the resin is hardened.

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#9 1 year ago

Boy, does that fibreglass resin harden up and sand down nicely and smooth.
I decided to do the ding repairs with Elmers ProBond Max. Did a layer yesterday and sanded this am. Added more into the worst bottom back area and I’ll sand tomorrow.
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1 week later
#10 1 year ago

I know, boring stuff right now.......

Sanded again and did a last mud touch up on the main cab.
Now off to the head.
Where the gouge is and the top where the layer of plywood peeled off (example the last pic) , would you rip it and break that piece off or glue and clamp down?
I will then do a resin fill

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#11 1 year ago

Fiberglss resin filled a couple blown out corners, glued a comer getting ready to fill two more yet.
Sand after that

Lightly scrubbed my boards in simple green and rinse

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#12 1 year ago

Lookin good so far.

#13 1 year ago

Thank you.
The learning curve is basically gone and I can just go ahead and do it now.
On my FT, I was creating fixes as I went and it took forever and my motivation wasn’t there because I didn’t want to be always hung up on how to do a repair

#14 1 year ago

Here’s a look at how well fibreglass resin works, got the blown out corner all beautified

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#15 1 year ago

What kind of resin you using?

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

What kind of resin you using?

This.

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#17 1 year ago

Thanks might have to use that on my next project.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

Thanks might have to use that on my next project.

It fills the gaps nicely and it sands great.
Not that I have anything to compare it to, but I like it

1 week later
#19 1 year ago

Nice warm breezy day. Pullled our the cab and head which needed some final sanding.
Wiped them down with a damp microfibre to clean off residuals.

And got the sprayer set up (well kind of, I’m a fuckin idiot when it comes to painting and even more of an idiot when it comes to setting up my hvlp gun)

Drilled a 4x4 to make a little gun holder to pour the primer in.

Primed the cab/head. Took friggin forever as the primer seemed so thick, tried to thin, seemed thicker, added thinner, seemed thicker again. Holy fuck this is taking a long time, is it thicker again?? Holy fuck, this is spraying slower even, I swear.........

First coat, I’ll sand and prime again to get goood coverage.

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#20 1 year ago

Left shooter is from this WW, right shooter is from a PinBot I parted.

The right was the Williams W. is that something from certain system 11’s or other?
Which one should I toss on the redone WW ??

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#21 1 year ago

Chucked a bunch of cab and head hardware in the ‘ole polisher/tumbler. Squeezed some polish in

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#22 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Left shooter is from this WW, right shooter is from a PinBot I parted.
The right was the Williams W. is that something from certain system 11’s or other?
Which one should I toss on the redone WW ??
[quoted image]

I’d use the W version.

#23 1 year ago

I’d put the one on with the logo.

#24 1 year ago

Beat me to it

#25 1 year ago

I think wifeys heading to Saskatoon Saturday, so this gives me a chance to get the “WhirlWind Blue” paint from Home Depot.

I have a mix for Behr and a mix for Sherwinn Williams I have got a hold of in my whirlwind refurb search.

Since paint could be in near future here, I’ll lay out my artwork and get it flattened. I’ve had the artwork for a couple years waiting to finally get to this project.

I plan to have everything you see blue on the cab be paint and the art will be these.
I have to take them to a sign guy in town, he said he’ll put the “application paper” on the front of these so I can apply them.
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#26 1 year ago

Coin door?
What do most guys do for theirs without doing the whole frozen can “splatter method” I’ve read a bit about?
Just use a nice rattle can and spray it fresh?

Physically, this is in goood shape, it’s just worn off and filthy.

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#27 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Coin door?
What do most guys do for theirs without doing the whole frozen can “splatter method” I’ve read a bit about?
Just use a nice rattle can and spray it fresh?
Physically, this is in goood shape, it’s just worn off and filthy.[quoted image]

I’ve never try the splatter method. I just Sand, metal etch, and then paint. Because it’s easier.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

I’ve never try the splatter method. I just Sand, metal etch, and then paint. Because it’s easier.

Like sand, just enough to give it some grit, or something for the new paint to grab on to?

And what is metal etch?

#29 1 year ago

This is what I use not saying it the right way to go about it but turns out really good imo. And I always sand it all the way down.

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#30 1 year ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

This is what I use not saying it the right way to go about it but turns out really good imo. And I always sand it all the way down.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Holy! You took it right down to the bone.
Ok, I was not expecting that. I was just assuming sand it to get some grit to the paint and paint overtop.
Thanks!

#31 1 year ago

What type of rattle can do you finish it with??

#32 1 year ago

Head and some cab hardware case out nice and shiny after a couple days in polisher

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#33 1 year ago

Well, after a bit of a nuisance, looks like I have my WW blue!
My wife went to Hime Depot with a previous Behr can WW blue example, and they couldn’t make it, they said it doesn’t match their system any more and it’s a goner, can’t even buy oil based paint anymore.

So I sent her another WW blue example from Sherwinn Williams. And they made a can of high end, high traffic expensive type paint, so I guess I’m all in. She sent me a pic

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#34 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Well, after a bit of a nuisance, looks like I have my WW blue!
My wife went to Hime Depot with a previous Behr can WW blue example, and they couldn’t make it, they said it doesn’t match their system any more and it’s a goner, can’t even buy oil based paint anymore.
So I sent her another WW blue example from Sherwinn Williams. And they made a can of high end, high traffic expensive type paint, so I guess I’m all in. She sent me a pic [quoted image]

interested in duplicating this, is its a close match to original

#35 1 year ago

I just use the rustoleum semi-gloss black paint and primer.

#36 1 year ago

Cleaned up and repainted all my carriage bolts with a nice satin black and cleaned up and painted some cabinet hardware satin granite.

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#37 1 year ago

Hand block sanded the head and cab and got the first primer layer all smoothed out, feels nice. Another coat, block sand tomorrow maybe if the weather is nice and I can get my hvlp setup decently well. Next couple days off work, so I can get a bit done, but handcuffed to wait as paint/primer dries.

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#38 1 year ago

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand a little break!

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#39 1 year ago

Well, today I ran down and picked up a new can of primer so I didn’t have to screw around with that other stuff I battled with the other day. 14.99 was worth it it seems as it went on much fuller and more output.
Hopefully be able to sand in a coupe days when it’s fully hardened. It’s much nicer to sand when it’s fully dried as it doesn’t stick or build up on sandpaper and it’s dusts right off.

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#40 1 year ago

Hmmmm, boy oh boy, my coin door wasn’t as bad as I thought, couple worn down spots at the coin entry/return buttons made it worse looking, now that I only see door/frame, it’s not too bad?
Look for be touched up in the past as I can see the difference after removing parts.

Hey Twilight1, do you remove door and hinge right off, do all the work then, reattach after? How dies that hinge with paint hold up without breaking paint chips at all the edges? Maybe keep paint lighter at hinge area so less built up?

The tag in door says 78.12.22. Could it be that old? It was inspected by #5 .
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Pop removal!

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#41 1 year ago

Heres the door for my tron arcade I painted with that method, I did it 1 month ago. It’s a little dusty but I opened and closed it 40 times just before the pic. And I did it with out removing the hinge.

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#42 1 year ago

Also still looking for the coin entry. Can’t put in a order for one part.

#43 1 year ago

Thank you. Yeah, hinge help up nicely being painted, thought the paint might travel in the hinges a bit.
Since it wont hurt at all, I think i'm going to give this a baby sand with some high # sandpaper, and give it a once over with a rattle can to see how it turns out before I strip down and go from scratch. Could turn a several day project to a couple light sprays and re-assemble.

#44 1 year ago

Ya your door looks pretty good I’d try to lightly sand and paint over. Sanding them all the way down is not fun. But my door had lots of rust.

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

Ya your door looks pretty good I’d try to lightly sand and paint over. Sanding them all the way down is not fun. But my door had lots of rust.

yes, I believe I can make this 90%+ as good as I could with all the tedious work, I will do the easy route on this one. The cab is getting the full treatment. I use that time i'm saving there.

#46 1 year ago

Little washin!!! Coin door parts, & a wire harness or two
Normal cycle, heat dry turned off

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#47 1 year ago

Did three (hopefully) very light coats on this door and parts, tried to basically just get it wet each time. Looks decent for sure. I’ll
Leave it a couple weeks to cure (much different than being just dry) and see if it hardens up decently.

I took it inside and out of garage to dry/cure after I sprayed, it’s friggin cold, wet, rainy out side.

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1 week later
#48 1 year ago

Ok, went and got what I think is the right stuff for polyurethane!
Water based semi-gloss

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1 week later
#49 1 year ago

Look at that beautiful WW blue!!
This is the nicest paint I’ve ever seen, smooth,
creamy, lol. It cost a fortune (for paint anyway) and got my polyurethane to mix and my M1 for flow and smoothness.

We’ll see!! I might just try the inside of cab and head for a good test shot here. I’ll dial the gun in on a cardboard.

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#50 1 year ago

Nope, either not the right weather or not the right mix, or something. Orange peel. Damn.
Inside of cab. I’ll try again after I clean it up

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