(Topic ID: 100521)

Non working flippers and pop bumper on Black Knight


By 04barb

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by barakandl
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

#1 4 years ago

All the solenoids work except for the flippers and the pop bumper. What can I check?

#2 4 years ago

Not sure on the pop bumper but the flippers could be a couple things I believe. It could be wiring. They are connected via J12 I think it is. Second connector down on the left side of the driver board. I had a sketchy connection there that would result in dead flippers. Flippers also run on 28v, so you could check their power feed from the power supply.

#3 4 years ago

I got the flippers and pop bumpers to work . It was a bad pre driver transistor on the driver board for the flipper relay and I also found another pre driver transistor. Now when I turn it on it will fire all the solenoids until the fuse blows. I already replaced the 40 pin female connector. It has to be the large PIA IC5 chip? I think the chip was going because previously it would fire the ball kicker solenoid as soon as you powered up the game, but then the solenoid would shut off and you could start a game. What do you think?

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from 04barb:

I got the flippers and pop bumpers to work . It was a bad pre driver transistor on the driver board for the flipper relay and I also found another pre driver transistor. Now when I turn it on it will fire all the solenoids until the fuse blows. I already replaced the 40 pin female connector. It has to be the large PIA IC5 chip? I think the chip was going because previously it would fire the ball kicker solenoid as soon as you powered up the game, but then the solenoid would shut off and you could start a game. What do you think?

Did you cut the blanking signal line on the driver board by accident? It is pretty easy to do, runs most of the length below the interconnect. If you did, all the solenoids pulse while the computer is starting because the blanking is floating.

I would use a andre's test rom on a bench test and monitor the solenoid outputs. In Andre's final test after pushing the diag button cycles through all the solenoids two at a time. You can work backwards to the PIA as well.

#5 4 years ago

It is possible that I cut the line. I used a razor blade to cut each female pin out. How do I know where the blanking signal lines goes in order to check it?

#6 4 years ago

I tested for continuity from R195 to pin 4 on IC14 and had none. So I did cut the trace when I replaced the female connector. I ran a jumper wire and will reinstall the board.

#7 4 years ago

Nice, that should stop the solenoids all pulling in at power on and blowing the fuse.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
2,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Magnolia, TX
From: $ 9.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 7,499.00

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside