You have to count the flashes on the MPU board to see why the game is not booting.

Often the battery has leaked and destroyed the board.

Agree with vid, you have to count the flashes on the MPU board. Battery damage is often bad on these boards. If your not getting any flashes it could be anything from lack of power, bad chips, bad chip sockets, bad reset sections, broken traces, bad cables, or a combination of all of the above. If you are not willing to work on it yourself it will probably be too expensive to get it fixed to be worth it. If you are willing to work on it yourself then I would take it at a good price. I just bought 2 pins using almost the same boards and neither one would boot. I got a good package deal on them and got them booting. But I had to repair broken traces, bad ribbon cables, bad chip sockets, bad chips and bad power cables before they would boot. Once I got them booting I had to fix switch problems and lamp problems. If I hired someone to fix it I'm sure the price would have been way more than they are worth. But doing the work myself made it a good deal. If you consider all the time I put in then I probably got paid a couple cents an hour but I had fun and it was worth it to me. Again if I hired someone I'm sure I would have lost a lot of money and it would be much cheaper to just buy them in good condition. So if your willing to learn and do the work yourself you can get a really good deal and have fun learning how to fix it. But if you are going to pay someone to fix then I would pass on them and buy one in good condition.

Agree with all the above plus stress that it depends on the price. If it's really cheap then it may be worth it. Other questions- have you played this title before and will it be a keeper in your collection once brought back to life?

What is the condition of the rest of the game, playfield, backglass, etc.? Is it a local and easy pick up? Do you like projects?

Eric

Worst case you would need to get an Altek ultimate MPU board, and I would suggest an Great Plains updated rectifier board. Assuming you have MPU acid damage.

Learn to fix ( which most people can do if they are interested enough)

Or buy a working one

To fix you will need a good soldering gun, magnifying glass, and contact crimpers. About $200 for all. Hours of reading ( which is not really that complicated)

The MPU on many Bally games from that era are FUBAR, the power supplies are shot, the rectifier boards need rebuild, the connectors need repinned, the pins on every board at minimum need resoldered if not replaced. There's other issues to learn. Those are just the most common. The game is almost 40 years old. It has to be rehabbed to make it reliable. Once you learn how to do all that stuff you can fix one up pretty quick. There is a price for entry on the first one.

Paragon is usually one of the favorites in the early bally ss world. I think a really nice one can fetch a grand maybe?

Take the Backglass off and inspect the MPU. If the battery leaked all over the computer board, expect to have to replace it. You could use that to lean on the seller for a better price if you see fit. Replacement original is probably around $100 (hard to find), new repro board is like $200.

Barakandl is one of the top Bally guys, so I'd trust what he's saying.

It really depends on whether you want a project, the price, and how nice it looks. If the playfield is actually a 9 and the backglass is good, I'd give $600-700ish for a Paragon that needs an MPU