So first things first, I do not have confirmation this was a working game originally, so all parts must be treated as suspect!

Re-import AFM. Correctly converted voltage to 120.

Original boards were pretty trashed, so rottendog power driver and CPU.

Originally power on game and I get LEDa 201 and 202 on solid. Also as soon as I closed the high voltage interlock the flippers locked on.

Game does not boot at all, but I do hear the power-on bong.

I have back-tracked and done the following:
Checked voltages on the power driver board. As expected, all are spot-on.
Checked voltages running to the power driver board. Nice clean 5 and 12v.
Replaced game ROM with a freshly burned one.
No change.
Swapped all ribbon cables for kicks. No change.
Tried booting with no ribbon cables. No change.
Next step was to try a different CPU. I pulled a WPC95 off the bench. Moved over everything to it. This was an original (not a rottendog).
I even replaced the U4. No change.

So the only constants are the rottendog power driver and the ASIC.

I'm going to run to the shop tomorrow and try the CPUs in a junkyard we have to see if that helps.

I'm really just a bit stumped and got frustrated to the point I walked away for a bit.

IMG_20151004_1424231.jpg

I took it down as far as just the CPU with the power ONLY and no change.

Replaced with a brand new ROM.

The only thing that I've not been able to swap is the ASIC, but who knows...I've never seen a wonky ASIC, but there is a first time for everything!

Nope, not a fuse. Every voltage coming off of the power driver board is spot on. Not concerned with the playfield at this point since I've disconnected that harness.

Yep. I have my Rottendog, my borrowed CPU, and my rottendog power driver board. Tomorrow I'm going to swap things and go through some standard process of elimination.

I just was hoping that maybe someone had come across this one beforehand, but Ill get it!

Yep and yep.

Good advice for the record though!

OK...so yesterday I laid out three WPC95 CPUs in front of a working TOTAN. After a long bit of musical parts....I was still stumped.

But finally nailed it down. It was a bad 6809. I've not had one of these fail on me before, so I was mistakenly put into a false sense of security that it couldn't be that...But I was wrong.

And, silly stupid me, we sold a bunch of CPUs at the show last weekend, most of which had 6809's in them.

So yep, I ordered one.

OK...better

New 6809 did the trick.

The only weird thing that's going on is that the left flipper is locking on as soon as I close the high voltage interlock. None of the other coils are. Definitely not a bad switch. In switch test the flipper switch works correctly as does the EOS.

Even if I unplug the flipper opto board totally it still locks on. Does not indicate the flipper button being triggered, so the switch isn't shorting closed.

It's a brand new coil, and I did check, it is wired correctly. So I'm wondering what it may be beyond that....

Shorted coil? Bad diode? I think I have another spare hanging around, so I might just swap it to see.

IMG_07441.jpg

Would be interesting to see...it's a brand new rottendog.

Yep, I totally get that. And it's my own mistake to trust that just because it came out of a sealed baggie it's perfect

Yep. I had (well still HAVE) a paragon with a totally shot rectifier board. Figured might as well swap it with a new rottendog. Drove me nuts for weeks trying to figure out why it wouldn't work. Turns out it shipped with a bad thermistor (I think). Rottendog stuff is definitely an invaluable resource, but the QC sometimes is a challenge.

I'm honestly a bit disappointed on their service with this issue. I reached out to Jim directly via phone and email and got zero response. He's been a super guy to deal with in the past, but man, this is a bit disappointing. Between the two new boards in the machine, it's $500+ worth of gear. A phone call back might have been helpful...but I guess I will go back to doing what I do on the 20 year old stuff and break out the multimeter and soldering iron

And....multiple bad transistors on the power driver board.

I tested Q87 and was bad. Tested a few others. Some good, some bad.

So as much as I'd love to just steal an unused one and swap it with the bad, I'm not inclined to take the soldering iron to a brand new board. Guess RMA time.

Maybe tomorrow Ill start tearing down my TAFG then....