(Topic ID: 314267)

Node board/switch failure question

By Jenk540i

3 months ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by PinMonk
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 months ago

Ever since I have owned my JP pro I have had intermittent failure of the right ramp and right orbit to register. (Switches 52-54). Occasionally it is just the right ramp but usually it’s all 3.

After testing switches and continuity I know the issue is pins 2-4 of CN12 on node board 8. Because when it occurs I remove that connector and push it back on and it will work for weeks and then the switches will stop registering again. And when those 3 switches fail to register the other switches on the connector still register (pins 5,6,7,and 9). Not sure if the problem is the plug or the board/pins.

I have repaired boards from W/B systems where I have reflowed solder. But I have never messed with a Stern node board and I know if I damage one there are no available replacements now.

It’s not the end of the world to have to reseat that connector every few weeks but it is an annoyance. Reseating the connector works every time.

Hoping someone with more node board experience might have a suggestion. Thanks.

C7151B90-D4C4-49AB-A3B2-6A729240CA3C (resized).png
#2 3 months ago

I'd try to repin the connector first

#3 3 months ago

maybe they arent crimped well inside the plug, pull the crimps out with the right extractor and flow a touch of solder on them? may work.

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

maybe they arent crimped well inside the plug, pull the crimps out with the right extractor and flow a touch of solder on them? may work.

never solder connectors

#5 3 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:I'd try to repin the connector first

I thought about that but I have tested continuity through the connector while tugging on each wire and each one tests fine. Makes me think it’s less likely that it’s the connector.

#6 3 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

never solder connectors

Bro I meant solder the wire inside the trifurcon and place it back into the plug

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from Jenk540i:

I thought about that but I have tested continuity through the connector while tugging on each wire and each one tests fine. Makes me think it’s less likely that it’s the connector.

Did you check the connector pins on the wire end or on the board end? The wires could be crimped fine but of the connector pins are not always touching the board pins...

Anyways rebuilding a wire connector is much easier than board work as long as you have some experience and the right tools and parts to do the job.

I would personally get to the point of rebuilding the connector and seeing if the problem persists.

#8 3 months ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

Bro I meant solder the wire inside the trifurcon and place it back into the plug

I understand - just do it right - no need for solder

#9 3 months ago
Quoted from Jenk540i:

I thought about that but I have tested continuity through the connector while tugging on each wire and each one tests fine. Makes me think it’s less likely that it’s the connector.

My bet is still on the connector

#10 3 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

I understand - just do it right - no need for solder

It's better than right, it ensures the wire is bonded to the connection you're crimping it in and it will never ever fail again.

You said never solder the connection understanding what I meant, so explain why, I can't think of a negative.

#11 3 months ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

It's better than right, it ensures the wire is bonded to the connection you're crimping it in and it will never ever fail again.
You said never solder the connection understanding what I meant, so explain why, I can't think of a negative.

Crimp connectors and displacement connectors are not meant to be soldered.

#12 3 months ago
Quoted from Jenk540i:

I thought about that but I have tested continuity through the connector while tugging on each wire and each one tests fine. Makes me think it’s less likely that it’s the connector.

It would take 5 minutes to pop the pins out of the plug and drop a bit of solder on the crimp then you won't have to guess anymore about if it's the plug or not. I have seen some bad crimps on the stern games, sometimes they barely even strip The wire. Other than that maybe swap your eight and nine node boards if the switches connect to one of those.

#13 3 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Crimp connectors and displacement connectors are not meant to be soldered.

Not to get into some side argument here but I would bet if we found the guy who invented the molex trifurcon crimp, he couldn't come up with a negative about a drop of solder on his connection either.

There's always room for improvements and it won't hurt anything so don't say "never do it" that's just dumb.

#14 3 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Did you check the connector pins on the wire end or on the board end? The wires could be crimped fine but of the connector pins are not always touching the board pins...
Anyways rebuilding a wire connector is much easier than board work as long as you have some experience and the right tools and parts to do the job.
I would personally get to the point of rebuilding the connector and seeing if the problem persists.

Sounds reasonable. I’ve crimped connector pins before so probably will be my next step. Swapping the 2 node boards is also a good suggestion that I might try.

Thanks

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from Jenk540i:

Ever since I have owned my JP pro I have had intermittent failure of the right ramp and right orbit to register. (Switches 52-54). Occasionally it is just the right ramp but usually it’s all 3.
After testing switches and continuity I know the issue is pins 2-4 of CN12 on node board 8. Because when it occurs I remove that connector and push it back on and it will work for weeks and then the switches will stop registering again. And when those 3 switches fail to register the other switches on the connector still register (pins 5,6,7,and 9). Not sure if the problem is the plug or the board/pins.
I have repaired boards from W/B systems where I have reflowed solder. But I have never messed with a Stern node board and I know if I damage one there are no available replacements now.
It’s not the end of the world to have to reseat that connector every few weeks but it is an annoyance. Reseating the connector works every time.
Hoping someone with more node board experience might have a suggestion. Thanks.
[quoted image]

The dead simple way to isolate your problem is to swap node 8 and 9 (changing the dip switches so each knows its new role) and see if the problem moves to the left halfpipe (which is on node 9, CN12, pin 2). If after the swap your problem remains on node 8, it's the wiring or connector itself. If it moves to the node 9 (which was node eight) it's the node board pins, most likely.

#17 3 months ago

Thanks I read it, I did see this in there which is what I was trying to convey.
"Now if there is a bad or improper crimp on a terminal pin, solder can increase the performance of a crimp"

So I can agree to disagree. Namaste.

#18 3 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The dead simple way to isolate your problem is to swap node 8 and 9 (changing the dip switches so each knows its new role) and see if the problem moves to the left halfpipe (which is on node 9, CN12, pin 2). If after the swap your problem remains on node 8, it's the wiring or connector itself. If it moves to the node 9 (which was nodeit's the node board pins, most likely.

Yes this makes a lot of sense; I’ll do this next time it acts up but it might be a while until I can get to it. The pro is actually on loan in my son’s house (I have a JP premium at my house).

And greatly appreciate everyone’s advice.

#19 3 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The dead simple way to isolate your problem is to swap node 8 and 9 (changing the dip switches so each knows its new role) and see if the problem moves to the left halfpipe (which is on node 9, CN12, pin 2). If after the swap your problem remains on node 8, it's the wiring or connector itself. If it moves to the node 9 (which was node eight) it's the node board pins, most likely.

Do pro models have node 9?

Rob

#20 3 months ago

Can't help with your issue other than what has already been said but pinball life has node boards in stock currently.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-spike-2-node-board-520-5329-10.html

#21 3 months ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Do pro models have node 9?
Rob

Yes

#22 3 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

Can't help with your issue other than what has already been said but pinball life has node boards in stock currently.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-spike-2-node-board-520-5329-10.html

That’s great news.

#23 3 months ago
Quoted from Jenk540i:

That’s great news.

Borygard can fix most/many node boards for much less than the cost of a new board.

#24 3 months ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Do pro models have node 9?
Rob

I think all Spike 2 have at least node 8 and 9 (including JP Pro). It's the aux node boards where the Prem/LE differ from the Pro.

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