(Topic ID: 115208)

No Sound on HS2

By BigDan

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 20 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by BigDan
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

Hello my name is Dan and I just got HS2 as my very first pin. While playing it yesterday all of the sound starting cutting in and out and eventually stopped completely. After some research I checked all the fuses, pushed on the ribbon cable connectors and the rest of the connectors after that didn't do the trick.

I am able to get a few milliseconds of sound out of the speakers when ever I slam the coin door shut.

Thanks.

I also posted this in my local section yesterday if you care to see a day worth of reply's
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nor-cal-pinheads-thread/page/49#post-2168649

#2 9 years ago

I would start by reseating the connectors on your sound board. Go to www.ipdb.org and download the manual for Getaway. From there you can identify the sound board. There are two connectors side by side on the bottom of the board.

Also make sure when testing your fuses that you pull them out and test them with a meter.

#3 9 years ago

I forgot to add that I unplugged, inspected and plugged in all the connectors going to the sound board yesterday. As for the fuses, I did a visual inspection on them and they looked good. I still have some sound sometimes so a blown fuse doesn't make sense (to me at least) as a culprit right now. I lent my meter to a friend who should have it back to me in a day. I will still "reseat the connectors as the manual once I get one. I was holding out for the complete set of physical copy manuals.

#4 9 years ago

Here ya go...
There are some easy things to check.
Feel the heat sink for the amp. Is it too hot to touch when the sound is cutting out?
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Sound_problems
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://ww.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#5 9 years ago

Thanks for the links. I'm seeing a lot of useful info there.

As for your question. I wouldn't know if its getting too hot to the touch because the sound only comes on for 1 millisecond at a time whenever I slam the coin door shut. A previous owner said that my games volume has to be turned up past level 9 or else it would cut out on him in the other thread I had linked. Now it doesn't work at all (unless you count that millisecond of sound when I slam the coin door shut)

#6 9 years ago

Everything your describing sounds like a bad connection. Either follow the power from the wall or the speaker back. Your gonna need your meter. Check and reseat all the connectors not just from the sound card, but all the way to the speaker including the ground.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Everything your describing sounds like a bad connection. Either follow the power from the wall or the speaker back. Your gonna need your meter. Check and reseat all the connectors not just from the sound card, but all the way to the speaker including the ground.

Wouldn't be sure about that.

That bit about it "having to be turned up to 9" in the past makes me think it's a sound board issue. I'm not an expert on that - but maybe it needs new caps or whatever the hell you do to fix the power supply.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Wouldn't be sure about that.
That bit about it "having to be turned up to 9" in the past makes me think it's a sound board issue. I'm not an expert on that - but maybe it needs new caps or whatever the hell you do to fix the power supply.

Its a factory setting thing (Taken from the PinWiki link provided above)

4.21.2 Lowering the Minimum Volume
By default the game volume can be set no lower than '8' to prevent an operator from setting the volume too low. This can be overridden by entering the adjustments menu and setting Adjustment 1.28 (Minimum Volume Override) to yes. You can now set the volume as low as you like.

#9 9 years ago

It was just turned down all the way??

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

It was just turned down all the way??

No, I still have this issue. I was just pointing out that the volume not working under level 8 is a normal part of the factory programming and not a specific problem with my machine.

I am able to get the speakers to work for a second if I slap the sides of the lower cabinet and nowhere else. So it seems like a bad connection. I wonder where would be the best place to look if banging on the sides of the cabinet but no where else fixes the problem for a second.

I inspected the speaker terminals and none of them resulted in the speakers sparking to life like when I slap the sides of the lower cabinet.

#11 9 years ago

How do the components look on the sound board? There are some small capacitors which can fail and are hard to see. C47 blew up on my sound board and started giving me sound issues. It's tucked away next to the large capacitors and it's hard to notice it is even there until you look for it. I had no idea it was blown until someone told me to look for it. Just my 2c.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

So it seems like a bad connection.

Agree 100%. Start wiggling connectors...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#13 9 years ago

Bigdan

I believe when I owned the game I had an external sub attached to it. There isnt by chance two extra audio wires coming off the sub in the cab and sneaking out the back of the cab by the power cord is there?

It may be that the sub cord is still there and whatever was on there to cover the connections (tape, wirenuts?) Has come off and the + and - are touching causeing a short.

I cant remeber if it took the cord off before I sold it or nkt. That would have been two owners before you. But there isnt much in the way of connectors insie the cab for the audio. So hearing that when you hit it the audio comes back makes me think that added sub wire might still be in there.

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from Jabbles180:

Bigdan
I believe when I owned the game I had an external sub attached to it. There isnt by chance two extra audio wires coming off the sub in the cab and sneaking out the back of the cab by the power cord is there?
It may be that the sub cord is still there and whatever was on there to cover the connections (tape, wirenuts?) Has come off and the + and - are touching causeing a short.
I cant remeber if it took the cord off before I sold it or nkt. That would have been two owners before you. But there isnt much in the way of connectors insie the cab for the audio. So hearing that when you hit it the audio comes back makes me think that added sub wire might still be in there.

Yes I found that extra sub wire and the ends were exposed but not touching. So I cut the ends off, separated and taped them but still no sound.

#15 9 years ago

My next guess would be what sean casey said. Cold/cracked solder joints on the male connector pins on the audio board. If it is intermittent.

Next would be visualizing the components see if anything looks funny. Than it would be time to get the schematics out and start testing down the line.

#16 9 years ago

Here is a pic of the cabinet and loose speaker wire. As for components that look funny well there are a few but I and the pervious owner haven't worried about it because the game was working good. Its just a few looped connectors.

IMG_4004.JPGIMG_4004.JPG
#17 9 years ago

Can you -carefully- check by hand, the wires of the loudspeaker those who are going from the lugs to the cone. After 23 years of action, they can break.

wire LS.jpgwire LS.jpg

#18 9 years ago

I had the same problem with mine, corrected it by removing the old connector and replacing it with jumpers. Rebuilt it eventually...

#19 9 years ago

I checked the cone lugs and they were fine all all the speakers. I also got a meter.

Quoted from bobnatlanta:

I had the same problem with mine, corrected it by removing the old connector and replacing it with jumpers. Rebuilt it eventually...

Which old connector?

#20 9 years ago

I did some more poking around and discovered that the speakers spark back to life way more frequently during game play and more prone to staying on. Ok it only happened once and came inside to report this. I got a whole (short) game with game full audio but it went away as the game ended. The audio was really loud for level 18 and too loud for night time garage play on level 9 (which is the minimum volume as per instructions from a previous owner and pin-wiki) Come to think of it I may have always suffered from that "Too LOUD" problem I have seen here on similar WPC titles. I have always had to keep the volume low (usually 5-8) which seems like too low of a setting for the volume emitted. The sound quality also sounds not up to par, way scratchy with distortion on level 12.

It also comes to life only when everything is installed like play field glass and not while jiggling wires with the play field up or in the back box.

Just giving an update on my progress as some of these systems I have listed may have happened to someone else on a WPC title.
The sound is currently working but is not 100% as it cut out a bit when I fiddle with the coin door.

Are there any tests that I can do while I have sound to narrow down what needs attention vs re-flowing solder on every connector. Sure its on my list of things to do but id rather invite some friends and family over to play my very first pin instead of diving head first into a project like that my first week of owning my first pin.

I poked around further after I discovered that I should put in into sound test mode so there is always sound or music playing and finally found the culprit.... It was a loose sub speaker wire at the speaker connection.

Thank you pinsiders for all the help. The sound is still terribly loud, so loud that I taped cardboard over all the speaker holes because even #9 is too loud....and this is coming from a younger guy with JL Audio subs in all his vehicles.

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