I send all my wms stuff to Clive, but I've found that Chance Tess is the best when it comes to Data East. I bought a DE MPU from him that was half the price of anywhere else. He also fixed another DE MPU for me for $75. And he's fast, whereas sometimes Clive is 3 to 4 weeks backed up, which is a testament to Clive's great work too.

Try contacting Chance and see what he says.

Pinball Wizard Sales and Service
Chance Tess
Hazel Park, MI.
[email protected]
248-399-9867
(Email is the best way of communication)

This is what I'd do, but I don't have a lot of patience.

I'd buy another board that is the correct one for my machine; and put it in.

The cost to try to fix your board...+ shipping, etc is going to be as much as getting a new board, and you could probably get a replacement faster.

That is assuming that you believe that the input(s) to the board are good so you don't fry the new one.

Robert

Trade in and get the new and correct board.

The bulletin is for reworking a non EOS PCB to a EOS PCB.

So what you have is a 5080-00 modified???
You have to rework the flipper PCB making it a EOS PCB, you need to revert it back to a NON-EOS PCB.

What is the part number on your Flipper PCB??

Good point in earlier post - high voltage will always be at the coil, the activated transistor will pull the other end of the coil to ground, allowing current to flow. If this transistor is shorted, the coil, or hopefully fuse, will cook.

Without seeing the schematic, my guess would be the transistor. If you disconnect the coil as was done, there is no high voltage current path to pop the fuse... And the fuse didn't pop. So i dont think one can say there is no short on the board because the fuse didnt blow. ... Would be alot easier if i had a schematic, so at this point i am making an out loud educated guess.

Your Right, the instructions to modify the PCB show this but the subject line of the Service Bulletin is:
SUBJ: Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5033-00 (Non-E.O.S) conversion to
Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5080-00 (E.O.S)

It should read :
SUBJ: Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5080-00 (E.O.S) conversion to
Solid State Flipper Board, 520-5033-00 (Non-E.O.S)

As long as the voltages in to it are correct, and there isn't a short on the output, you'll be OK.

Robert

Wrong....DE flipper boards, switch voltage, not ground....You're thinking standard 50V coils or WMS/Bally flipper coils. The DE flipper coils are single windings...there is no high or low voltage windings like WMS/Bally coils. The DE board sends a 50V pulse followed by an 8V holding voltage apx 50 ms later.

Bgrom....I'm going to have to disagree with Chance on this one. Unless the 50V/8V circuitry was completely changed between Robocop and TFTC, which I don't believe it was. The later revision added EOS and a third flipper coil, but AFAIK they still used the 50V/8V voltage switching method to the coil.

I have opened my TFTC and confirmed the operation to the schematics with a meter. There is never a constant 50V voltage to the coil. It switches 50V briefly to the coil when the flipper button is pressed and then drops the voltage to 8V. This is measured against a constant ground, not the flipper button ground. Incidentally, look at the schematics. The orange ground wires come off CN19 on the MPU through the flipper relay...what's on the other side of the flipper relay? Constant ground, not a switched ground from the flipper button. So in the case of DE flipper, once the game is in play, it has a constant ground...The flipper board IS NOT providing a switched ground. The schematics are also wrong as they show the orange wires from the coils going through the flipper buttons....They don't. Look at your flipper buttons and you'll see dark gray or black.

I would get a new board and just start fresh! Eliminate the possible "this and that" with your current board

Incidentally, Chance is also wrong about not being able to use the 80 in place of a 33...The pinouts aren't different, you just cut pin 10 and make a couple of other changes according to the service bulletin.

Just to follow up, I contacted Chance to try and understand his explanation. What he was trying to express was that if you read the voltage ACROSS the coil lugs when the game is on but in attract mode, you don't have the ground because of the flipper relay (as I explained above) and so you are just reading a floating voltage. I had you read the coil voltage to a permanent ground (bottom ground strap) for that purpose, knowing that the flipper ground would not be in play in attract mode.

He did agree with my explanation above that you SHOULD NOT have high voltage to the coil all the time. So, we are back to likely your transistors or diodes on the board are shot. Your choice what to do at this point.

If you have patience and want to learn, I'd replace the Tip36c, Tip32c and IN4004 and see if that fixes your problem. Worst case, you learn some soldering skills and you buy a new board from Chance or PinLED for $80. Middle case, for the cost of a few parts (<$8) you fix nothing and you can still send the board off, you've just lost time. Best case, you fix it

Ummmmm, he is wise, robertmee is...

I doubt the IN5404's or even the SCRs are bad as they are on the VAC (8 v holding circuit) and that doesn't appear to be your problem. Start with the TIPs and the IN4004's on the HV side first. You don't want to be replacing components for the sake of replacing components as everytime you heat a circuit board/component you take a small chance of damaging a trace.

Thanks robertmee. I stand corrected. I was basing all off chance's statement about transistor pulling coil to ground. Next time it will be best to find a schematic before i pipe up

Yep

whoo-hoo!

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Congrats!! Good job.....

Wow!! What a great outcome : )

just read the whole thread. Great outcome!

So much more satisfying (and cheaper!) than just buying a new board without figuring out your High voltage problem. Congratulations!

Good job