(Topic ID: 188424)

No Power to Doodle Bug Playfield - Solved

By jedi42

6 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 38 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by newmantjn
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Doodle Bug Schematic.pdf (PDF preview)

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#10 6 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

- the flippers work, the kick out hole works and lights up (and scores properly), and the ball eject works

This points to no single issue. The flippers are on the same end of the circuit as most the other things. The lights are on a different circuit altogether.

There is no tilt relay on this game.

Lets look at the lights first, since they are the easiest. Look in the lower left corner of your schematic, area 2 and 3 A. The lights are controlled by the following:

Lock relay and fuse. That's it.

Lock relay: The switch with the G-Y-W wire on one side and the Blue-Y-W wire on the other. Make sure this relay is pulling in and that switch is clean and making good contact. Jumper it to be sure. Next is the fuse.

Quoted from jedi42:

At first I thought this must be a blown fuse, but all 5 of them seem OK.

Seems OK means nothing. Jumper the connector. This will tell you in short order if either the fuse or the notoriously bad holder is no good. They can look fine and not be fine. If the jumper fixes, then check the fuse with an ohm meter. PULL IT OUT and ohm it out. Don't leave it in place.

Regarding the PF:
Get a better reading on the symptoms - Make a list, the pop bumper pops, but doesn't score. This rollover does nothing. That kicker kicks but doesn't score.

Also, double, triple check your jones plugs. If you haven't cleaned them up yet, go after them with a dremel and a wire wheel or sandpaper or a wire brush. Random unrelated problems are often jones plug related.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from newmantjn:

There is no tilt relay on this game.

OK, I screwed up. I didn't see it on a quick perusal of the schematic/relay list, but it is there and at F-15 on the schematic. Sorry if this caused confusion.

The thing is, ALL the features (except the GI) you listed are fed by the game Over Relay (NC) Reset Relay (NC) and Tilt Relay (NC) in series. If one doesn't work, they all shouldn't work. The fact that your flippers DO work is a real head scratcher. This implies a wiring issue of some sort. A broken wire, a broken solder joint, something like that. You almost need to trace the wire and look for something odd. The jones plug is still a potential.

If I get a moment tonight, maybe I can pop my game open and see if I notice a potential failure point.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Since the problem affects both playfield lights and solenoids, first I'd trace the yellow wire. With the game ready to play, and the playfield up, at each yellow wire connection you can jump from there to the yellow wire on the transformer. At some point the playfield lights should come on.

Just looked in mine. The yellow turns into Black/White on at the flipper switch. The black and white gets passed to the PF, so yep. Probably the yellow wire didn't make it to the PF for some reason.

That would also be common cause to the lights. The schematic represents the logic, not the actual wiring. I forget that sometimes.

#18 6 years ago

If it locks on immediately, it is a play field switch. Check them all. Slip pieces of paper in to be sure. Check the damper blade on each switch as well. Don't forget the doodle bug switch.

If it locks on after a score, check EOS in score reel and lock on switch in 10 point relay.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Is there a way to test if it is not a switch, but a crossed wire (e.g. jumpering past switches)?

Paper in the switches is the test I use. You are looking for a short, not an open, so jumper won't work.

There is really nothing more I can add than has already been written here - read this small section:

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#stuck

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Can I ask for doodle bug help in this thread too?

It would really be better to start a new thread. But check the make/break on your game over relay.

Quoted from Boise_D:

I'm also looking for a place to get the correct scoring wheel springs.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1974-1975/index.html#/16/

Order from them or Pbrescource by part number

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Will this work, or is this a waste of time for some reason?

When I get truly desperate, I will sometimes take this approach to finding a short. Not nearly as big a deal as it sounds.

One thing, rather than the one at a time approach, spend a little time figuring out what feeds what from where and thy to cut the circuit in half to narrow down your search. I did this with a GI circuit and found the offender pretty quickly.

Be sure to check damper blades, lugs and maybe solder boogers for bridging.

#26 6 years ago

I just saw that you posted the schematic. I had forgotten you did this.

Anyway, the G-B wire is a feed FROM the Green Relay (as you stated), the Yellow Relay (ditto) and the Pulse Relay.

Before you unsolder anything, Check the switch on each of these relays and make sure it is really open, that the lugs are not touching etc.
Note: The switches on the Yellow and Green relay are M/B switches, they should open in one direction and close in the other.

If you want to unsolder something, do those three if the visual in inconclusive. I'm about 90% sure that is where your problem lies.

Good sleuthing!!

#29 6 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

The white wire causing the issue runs to a light. Not what I expected. Is this related to my original problem of the GI lights not coming on (except the top left one), see the 3rd photo.

Here is what mine looks like. The white wires are used as jumpers. The one that goes to a light is the extension of the yellow buss. The one that goes to the green/black carries that to the other stand up (10 point) target.

From your picture, it looks like you disconnected the one attached to the green/black wire on the switch?

File_000 (2) (resized).jpegFile_000 (2) (resized).jpeg

#31 6 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Correct, I disconnected the white wire that is usually attached along with the green/black wire to that switch. When I do that, the 10 point energization ceases.

Yep, it must be the switch that the white wire is still attached to.

#33 6 years ago

For the outhole

Let's work backwards. Look at F10 on your schematic for the Ball Release Coil. This is pulled in by the Outhole Relay and Motor 4A.
Now find the Outhole Relay. It is at F13. It is pulled in by the Outhole switch, A switch on the ball count unit that opens up at Zero Balls and a switch on motor Index B.

>> If ANY of these switches are not pulling working correctly, your ball will not eject. You could shotgun them all, try to fix the easy stuff or divide and conquer.

I would clean and adjust the outhole switch, because it is easy. Also, I would do the same for the open at zero switch on the ball count unit.

Then, I would play it and see if it happens again. If it does, I would try to see if the outhole relay pulled in or not. If it didn't and your are sure of your cleaning and adjusting you just did, then it must be motor Index B. If the outhole relay did pull in, it is likely the switch in the outhole relay or motor 4A.

Regarding the 99990 problem:
The Transfer Relay is pulled in by the 10,000 relay and the ninth position in the 10000 score reel. This, in turn RUNS THE SCORE MOTOR and pulls in the 100,000 relay. When the 100,000 relay pulls in, it is supposed to open (release) the transfer relay, light the light and stay locked on. I suspect the 100,000 relay is releasing right away, due to a misadjusted lock in switch and not letting the transfer relay go. The other alternative is that the switch in the 100,000 relay that releases the tranfer relay is misadjusted. Refer to your manual for more information on switch location within the relays.

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

You have been super helpful Newmantjn!

Thank you. Glad to help.

#38 6 years ago

Glad I was able to help out with my 1200 mile long switch adjuster!

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