(Topic ID: 271530)

No One Escapes the Black Hole! - Master restoration attempt


By knockerlover

18 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by knockerlover
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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#1 18 days ago

I’m far from a master restorer, no where near the likes of many on pinside. My first cabinet restore and playfield swap, was a Bally Star Trek. I’ve done a unique Monster Bash which I’m honored to have been listed as one of the pinside top restorations documented. A TZ, a couple of next gens, had a hand in a BTTF cabinet, a couple of Aliens, a TBL cabinet, and a skateball to name a few.. but with all of them there is a lot I would have done differently. Maybe I rushed aspects of it, cut corners places, didn’t take it as far as I would have liked to, or just outright did things wrong. This time, I want to put forth my absolute best effort, and see where it goes.

My objective, is something that looks true to the original, with an extra bit of glimmer and shine. Quite simply, I want to make the worlds most beautiful, most reliable, and most desirable Black Hole ever.

The vision is somewhat clear, but still taking shape. So instead of lay out a concrete path, I hope to consistently surprise you with “wow” moments. Nothing over the top in terms of mods and gawdy add ons. But very classy, and mostly based on the original look and feel.

Where I’m starting from, I have a long way to go. It may take a long while, but I hope we both enjoy the journey, and I hope that some day you can play it if we are ever able to have pinball shows again.

#2 18 days ago

Now that you’re hopefully inspired, here is the donor cabinet. It was painted with grey Latex paint at some point, and has some blue overspray on the bottom.

What makes this cabinet a wonderful candidate, is the playfield mechs, wiring, and mechanical components are in excellent condition. The boards are mostly free of hacks, no grounding mod attempts or otherwise shoddy repairs, and the cabinet has no water damage or swelling.

The backglass is decent, but not perfect.

Objective number 1, make it work.
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#3 18 days ago

Step one.. correct voltages from the power supply..

The playfields are in a really inconvenient spot to work on power, so those gotta come out!

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#4 18 days ago

Grey latex? Why, just why?

#5 13 days ago

A few issues right out the gate.. the sound card is playing odd sounds.. and the F2 fuse keeps blowing. F2 is the unregulated 10v AC power from the transformer that gets rectified to 12vdc and filtered with a large capacitor.

The old orange (known must replace) filter cap was still there, leaking as usual.. with a replacement cap zip tied to it. Even better, the new capacitor was installed using aligator clips.

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Great Plains electronics has an elegant replacement solution for this.

CCG-12000uF-25V / Electrolytic Capacitor, 12000uF, 25V
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCG-12000uF-25V

VR3A / Vertical mount capacitor clamp, Small
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=VR3A

I added the round crimp terminal connectors and soldered in place to the new BR.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GBPC3504W

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Of course, I’ve got my home made alligator clip mouser 5a fuse breaker. If you don’t have a set of these, you need to!
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/655-W58-XB1A4A-5?r=655%2DW58%2DXB1A4A%2D5

They make a variety of amperages.
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine?Keyword=655-W58-XB1A4A-

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#6 12 days ago

I love that zip tie alligator cap install. Haha. Excited to see this one come together!

#7 12 days ago

Even with the 12vdc BR and filter cap replaced, the F2 fuse was still popping. After pulling all the edge connectors off, and connecting each board individually I was getting sporadic results so I began to speculate the power supply board.

There are a few relatively easy modifications that could be made to make the power supply board a little more reliable. But, I figured why not just get the replacement board.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-114

Good news, that seemed to resolve the problem. No more blowing fuse, and the sound board seems to be playing the right sounds now. For fun, later I'll probably rebuild the original board. But this will help keep things reliable for long play situations.. like shows, that I hope we get back to someday.

I picked up a driver board too, just in case.. and will leave it in while I try to get everything else running 100%

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/GDB80

I know Todd Tuckey says you don't need to do the major ground mods in the backbox just the one between the MPU and Driver Board. But, I figure it can't hurt so I'll add them just in case. Started a few already.

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#8 12 days ago

To my surprise, the black hole spinning disc motor was original and actually worked on this game. But it was super noisy, like most are.

I ordered a replacement, 37mm 12V DC 2 RPM Gear-Box from ebay. Knowing I would need to modify the mount a little to make it fit precisely.

The mount that attaches to the disc and motor won't fit the new larger motor shaft, so I drilled out the original to match the new shaft.

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The next problem, is the screw holes for the original plate that mounts the motor to the backbox don't line up with the new motor. I could just screw one screw in, but that would be unprofessional. Below you can see only one hole lining up.

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I had a spare piece of steel lying around, from an old mech housing that was of a similar size.

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Tracing the outline onto the blank.

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Everything drilled out and mounted!

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#9 11 days ago

Is that a Whistle Stop in the background? Love that game!

#10 11 days ago
Quoted from PinBackpacker:

Is that a Whistle Stop in the background? Love that game!

You should buy it! Wonder how much he wants for it?

#11 10 days ago

Whistle stop is not for sale! Choo choo!

#12 5 days ago
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