(Topic ID: 18474)

No key for backglass.


By sixsixtie

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Billc479
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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lock.jpg

#1 7 years ago

My POTO has new key for the backglass and it's locked. Am i right to assume if I get the proper torx set I can just screw the whole housing out and take it out?

#2 7 years ago

Security Torx would be better.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=600&parent=0
But you can drill out the nub and use a regular torx.

#3 7 years ago

Sadly I'm in canada and I just got my last order in. Probably not going to put a special order in for something that small. Can I get those from a B&M store anywhere?

#4 7 years ago

sometime you can just use a pair of pliers. i have done this numerous times with machines that come into the shop that don't have keys, otherwise go to an automotive store and they will have the torx set that you need. it is about $6 here in the states and comes with 7 different sizes. they can even be used as hex keys in a pinch.

#5 7 years ago

Yea security Torx bits are cheap, I found a set at menards for like 3 dollars. If not then the above suggestions should get them out

#6 7 years ago

Check out Princess Auto. They'll have a good selection of security torx.

#7 7 years ago

Not sure what you mean when you say ”new” key. If you didn't change it then you might check the inside of the coin door. There is often a small hook on the top right that would hold the backbox key for operators.

#8 7 years ago

No i know that. But there's no keys for either the back box or the coindoor. The door was locked open.

#9 7 years ago

I've got an extra set of security bits I can put in a padded envelope and mail you. Send me your address in a PM.

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

I've got an extra set of security bits I can put in a padded envelope and mail you. Send me your address in a PM.

Classy move!

#11 7 years ago

Use a dremel to cut a slot in the security screw and back it out.

Then put in real screws next time.

Robert

#12 7 years ago

You could also use a pair of vice grips to turn them out, and replace them with regular ole machine screws in the meantime.

#13 7 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

I've got an extra set of security bits I can put in a padded envelope and mail you. Send me your address in a PM.

What a guy. A shining example as to why this community is so amazing!

2 years later
#14 4 years ago

Hey folks, in a bit of a quandry here. I don't have torx bits....and too impatient as it's a holiday here in the great white north tomorrow. I've drilled the lock, slid a piece of metal between the translite and the head to try and slide the latch over. No luck. So, what am I doing wrong?? Have I not drilled enough??

lock.jpg

#15 4 years ago

probably have not drilled it enough. you need drill enough to get through the screw that hold the tab in place.

otherwise you can go to any automotive store (Weaver, O'Riley's, etc) and get a torx set for about $10, that way you can put a new lock back in there also.

#16 4 years ago

Use the next size up drill bit and drill all the way through the center of the lock. The cam should fall off.
If not, go up a drill bit size.
Go slow and sure so as not to damage the backbox.

#17 4 years ago

The main thing is to drill completely through the lock.
Your goal is to drill through the lock and eliminate the screw that holds the cam on the backside of the lock. As soon as the screw is gone the cam(flat price of steel) will fall out of the way. A 1/4" drill usually is enough.
That's what works for me.

#18 4 years ago

I think it was a huge mistake to try and drill and not wait to get a torx bit . Why did you need to get inside so bad ? It reminds me of the razor commercial - I would have zapped you with a stun gun before you drilled .

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from TenaciousT:

I think it was a huge mistake to try and drill and not wait to get a torx bit . Why did you need to get inside so bad ? It reminds me of the razor commercial - I would have zapped you with a stun gun before you drilled .

^^^^^^ Totally agree with this.
You risk the drill catching and breaking the glass.
My suggestion was a very last resort.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from TenaciousT:

I think it was a huge mistake to try and drill and not wait to get a torx bit . Why did you need to get inside so bad ? It reminds me of the razor commercial - I would have zapped you with a stun gun before you drilled .

Cause I'm an impatient moron!! LOL

#21 4 years ago

The truth of the matter (instead of poking fun at myself!). The creetch that you see in the background....has been totally stripped down. I'm replacing the cab with one from VirtuaPin. I bought a Shadow off of someone on Pinside who said the pin was working 100%. Well it's not. So my first plan of action is to rob the Driver Board off of Creetch while I'm still working on it, and put that in Shadow to see if it works.

Hence my level of frustration, to be sold something as working, when in fact it is not. Guess things happen during transport!

#22 4 years ago

I learned how to pick locks - these locks are pretty simple, no more than three or four pins in the tumbler. You can pick up a cheap set of picks on EBay, plus, it freaks out some people when you pick a lock for them!

I just picked two backglass locks yesterday - took less than five minutes for the pair.

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