(Topic ID: 161261)

No Fear / WPC resetting woes.


By Frax

3 years ago



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  • 66 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Frax
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#1 3 years ago

Having solved so many issues on this game already, this *appears* to be my last major hurdle? I've had 40 games in and out of this condo, as many as 5 WPC/Sterns up on my wall, have never, ever run into reset issues with any prior game I've owned. It's 100% not the line voltage. That said, I'm starting to work through this and figured it would be fun or maybe help others if I documented the process. Pinwiki is pretty detailed in this regard, really, but reading and doing are two different things most of the time. I'm using it for reference and going through the steps, and I'll explain my logic here. I'm open to suggestions as well from people that have dealt with this on WPC games.

What happens when the game resets - Everything goes dead, the game tries to reboot, but will often light a few pixels from whatever was in memory on the DMD for a split second, or you'll get 1/10th of a second of sound tied to whatever was going on in the game (Okay, the power isn't gone long enough for memory to completely clear..so what.). The game will *attempt* to reboot. It'll ALWAYS play the bong sound, but frequently the solid LED on the CPU board never turns off and the game does not proceed to boot. It just hangs. If you turn the game off and immediately back on, it will not boot. If you turn it off for ~15 seconds and back on, it probably will. I usually leave it off for a few minutes then turn it back on. If you leave it on in the locked up state it will eventually reboot itself, and then subsequently fail again after some time. It will happen regardless of if it's being played, or if it's just sitting in test menu or attract mode. Amount of time it takes crash is totally random. I've had it go after 2 minutes, I've had it go in the middle of a game after 6 balls. It never makes it a LONG time.

TP2 on the driver board shows 5.04v, consistently.

BR2 has already been replaced. Had a rectifier on hand and needed to fix some things in that area anyways. Last owner really f'ed up the through holes on everything that was touched.

I've tried to jumper the thermistor, no change.

About to pull the driver board and reflow the LM323K.

#2 3 years ago

Got other machines you can swap driver and cpu boards with?

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from pincredible:

Got other machines you can swap driver and cpu boards with?

I *could* swap the boards from my World Cup Soccer. I'm willing to risk a driver board, but I'm not willing to pull the roms out of the WCS board unless I have no other choice. That game was working great, and I'd really like to keep it that way and not tank a working game to fix a broken one. For what it's worth, all the things I've done so far to the No Fear driver board, are things that needed to be done regardless of any other issues.

That said... I'm pretty sure the resets occur with both boards, which I had forgotten..I'm about to put the WCS driver back in there and find out for sure, just to be certain. I've had the boards in and out of this thing so many times I may be crossing my own wires in the process. If the resets do occur (WCS has never reset...) with the "working" board in there, then I guess I will have narrowed it down to the CPU board, or wires or connectors that go there.

WCS CPU ribbon cable is in No Fear already. Reflowing the LM323K and replacing the sub-par 25v 15k uf cap that the last owner put in with a 35v one didn't do anything either. Still reading same voltage. Did check the through holes while I had the cap out, they're fine, which is pleasantly shocking.

#4 3 years ago

In my expedience albeit a short one..LM323K seldom go bad. I would look elsewhere..is there a Z connector on the game? Sorry I'm not home or else I'd look at my NF. Also if you say the last owner screwed up the eyelets make sure you have a good connection and solder work at C5 and the BRs. Lastly, the Dmd controller sometimes prevents the game from booting..make sure all cabling and wiring is good there also.

#5 3 years ago

try swapping the ribbon cables with the WCS.

#6 3 years ago

Noooooot having a lot of faith in the WCS board...with it hooked up, only to power input, CPU connections, and DMD running, the 5v reads 4.87v.

*Edit* Yep, that took like no time at all. Resets with both boards.

#7 3 years ago

Likely the machine is resetting because the voltage at the MPU board is 4.84 volts or lower. Good chance the game may not even boot up with 4.7 volts from my experience.

Quoted from Frax:

TP2 on the driver board shows 5.04v, consistently.

This is good to know, but now you need to measure across the blue capacitor on the MPU board. If you see it measure >.7 difference than the TP2 on the driver board compared to the blue capacitor, try just reseating J114 on the driver board and the MPU power connector at J210, then measure the voltage again. I suspect your voltage will rise back up close to what you measured at TP2. There is a good chance that may work for a while, but it acts up again, I would repin J210. And if it craps again, repin J114. Also inspect the pins on J101 for any burnt pins as well.

#8 3 years ago

If reseating the J210, J114, and/or J101 seems to solve your problem, it will be of great benefit to repin these female connectors and replace the male pins on the board if they look tarnished.

#9 3 years ago

You want to buy the "WPC Power Fix Daughterboard" from here:

http://kahr.us/

I just installed one on a No Fear that had resetting problems. That cured it.

#10 3 years ago

Good bet you have a filter capacitor problem and excessive ripple on the DC side. Got a 'scope to see how dirty the various V+ buses are? If you don't find someone who does and have a look.

You can pull your hair out for a *long* time with what appears to be good voltages on a DMM yet in fact they're crap.

#11 3 years ago

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.V1EQUr4giUk

Do yourself a favor and try these, it has an adjustable voltage pot on it, set all my games to 5.10, of course changed the caps and BR's and all the pinwiki troubleshoot tips, resets are gone! These made a huge difference, many games were still reading 4.88 give or take, not any more.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from surfsled:

try swapping the ribbon cables with the WCS.

I started to try this, despite not understanding the logic behind it. Swapped one cable from the J201 to J602 (CPU to DMD board, top right to middle left bottom)....and the game won't even boot with the WCS cable in there. I have no idea if this actually means anything or not, but I'm now wondering if that WCS cable just gave out on me....this is pretty much exactly why I don't like cannabalizing parts from working games to troubleshoot a bad game. These parts have finite lifespans and can only be moved around so much before they just die. So no....unless someone can explain the logic of moving the cable that goes to the fliptronics board and sound board (especially given that the resets do NOT occur with flipper activity), I'm not touching that other cable. >=\

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

If reseating the J210, J114, and/or J101 seems to solve your problem, it will be of great benefit to repin these female connectors and replace the male pins on the board if they look tarnished.

Everything under the sun has been reseated at least 5-10 times at this point. If anything, the problems are getting worse, not better.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

You want to buy the "WPC Power Fix Daughterboard" from here:
http://kahr.us/
I just installed one on a No Fear that had resetting problems. That cured it.

I don't see much point in wasting 30 bucks when it occurs with two different driver boards, one of which is 100% functional in it's original game. You've been around a long long time Ken, and I really value your opinion, but I'd really rather fix the board...or even boards...than spend 30 bucks on what's basically a coverup..I'm running out of options though.

Quoted from balboarules:

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/featured-products-list-home-page/psu5.html#.V1EQUr4giUk
Do yourself a favor and try these, it has an adjustable voltage pot on it, set all my games to 5.10, of course changed the caps and BR's and all the pinwiki troubleshoot tips, resets are gone! These made a huge difference, many games were still reading 4.88 give or take, not any more.

Same response. Two driver boards. One known to work fine in it's original game...explain the logic of how this part is going to solve the problem when it occurs with both boards.

Quoted from Tickerguy:

Good bet you have a filter capacitor problem and excessive ripple on the DC side. Got a 'scope to see how dirty the various V+ buses are? If you don't find someone who does and have a look.
You can pull your hair out for a *long* time with what appears to be good voltages on a DMM yet in fact they're crap.

Okay, you've got my attention. I don't have a scope, nor do I know anyone with one that's accessible. Is there something I should be checking that's NOT on the driver board? C31 on the CPU board?

I'm sure it probably appears I'm just shooting down every suggestion, but if one of these things works, I'd like to understand *why*, not just say "oh well, it's fixed, woot!" and then the next time I have one of these issues I'm still as clueless.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

You want to buy the "WPC Power Fix Daughterboard" from here:
http://kahr.us/
I just installed one on a No Fear that had resetting problems. That cured it.

These do not fix all resets. I bought one for a bsd I had with a reset issue, It made the reset worst. When I emailed him and asked about it making the reset worst I got an email looked to be a default made up just for people with a ?. It said something like this board/pcb is not a miracle board so it will not fix ever rest issue on a wpc game. Its been a year or more but let me see if I can dig up the email.

#15 3 years ago

Anyone know his email address I can search for it then.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

I don't see much point in wasting 30 bucks when it occurs with two different driver boards, one of which is 100% functional in it's original game. You've been around a long long time Ken, and I really value your opinion, but I'd really rather fix the board...or even boards...than spend 30 bucks on what's basically a coverup..I'm running out of options though.

Same response. Two driver boards. One known to work fine in it's original game...explain the logic of how this part is going to solve the problem when it occurs with both boards.

Okay, you've got my attention. I don't have a scope, nor do I know anyone with one that's accessible. Is there something I should be checking that's NOT on the driver board? C31 on the CPU board?
I'm sure it probably appears I'm just shooting down every suggestion, but if one of these things works, I'd like to understand *why*, not just say "oh well, it's fixed, woot!" and then the next time I have one of these issues I'm still as clueless.

I had games resetting at random, did the pinwiki guide, new ribbon cables, Daughter boards, 2 stacked voltage regulators maintaining 120, nothing worked until I installed the product I listed for you, I was then able to adjust the pot and raise it to a level of over 5V, And my resets were gone, I put one in every WPC game I have, does not even require the heat sink any longer. And you can get 3 of them for the price of one daughterboard.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Is there something I should be checking that's NOT on the driver board? C31 on the CPU board?

The blue capacitor (normally on most MPU boards anyway) is C31 that I mentioned.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Likely the machine is resetting because the voltage at the MPU board is 4.84 volts or lower. Good chance the game may not even boot up with 4.7 volts from my experience.

This is good to know, but now you need to measure across the blue capacitor on the MPU board. If you see it measure >.7 difference than the TP2 on the driver board compared to the blue capacitor, try just reseating J114 on the driver board and the MPU power connector at J210, then measure the voltage again. I suspect your voltage will rise back up close to what you measured at TP2. There is a good chance that may work for a while, but it acts up again, I would repin J210. And if it craps again, repin J114. Also inspect the pins on J101 for any burnt pins as well.

Quoted from Frax:

Everything under the sun has been reseated at least 5-10 times at this point. If anything, the problems are getting worse, not better.

Good. Now it seems resistance built up so much on J210 and/or J114 that it should be easy to see once you repin J210 if it helps or not.

#18 3 years ago

Mate do your self a favour. Replace the Header pins on the Power driver board and the CPU board. J210 and J114. Chuck away the Insulation displacement connectors on the cables attached to those headers and repin them using Truficon connectors.
No amount of resetting will correct worn out connectors that have lost their tension over time, in fact the more you pull them in and out the less tension they will maintain and as you have seen the problem is becoming worse.
The high resistance joints these old connectors cause will be enough to drop the voltage low enough to trigger U10 MC34064 under voltage sensing circuit on the MPU board.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from c_mario:

Mate do your self a favour. Replace the Header pins on the Power driver board and the CPU board. J210 and J114. Chuck away the Insulation displacement connectors on the cables attached to those headers and repin them using Truficon connectors.
No amount of resetting will correct worn out connectors that have lost their tension over time, in fact the more you pull them in and out the less tension they will maintain and as you have seen the problem is becoming worse.
The high resistance joints these old connectors cause will be enough to drop the voltage low enough to trigger U10 MC34064 under voltage sensing circuit on the MPU board.

Well said. Include J101 in this list to repin as well. 5 volts comes in the driver board through this connector.

#20 3 years ago

As c_mario stated, if you haven't changed all the connectors, you're throwing darts. Change everything from the two red wires on the transformer connector up to the driver board, and then the connector from the driver board to the CPU. Change the header pins too, on the driver board (AC in and DC out) and the CPU. 9 out of 10 times this takes care of resets.

I've fixed resets on games that were using the Kahr reset boards. The Kahr board worked for a while, then resets started again. Why? Because the connectors and header pins were the actual problem. The Kahr board is fine if your issue is caps, bridge, or the regulator. They aren't a good solution if the problem is connectors. And since the problem is usually the connectors...

#21 3 years ago

Games that have reset issues I do the following in this order. Typically the games I do are someone else's and I don't want to have to go back to pull boards out again.

Replace J101 header and connectors
Replace J102 header and connectors
Replace J114 header and connectors
Eliminate or replace J114 Z-connector to CPU
Replace C4
Replace BR2
Replace C5
Jumpers between BR2 and C5
Put driver board back in and measure voltage at TP2. If its around 4.95V or above you are probably good to go. If not, I replace with an EzSBC LM323K adjustable voltage regulator.

Pretty much guarantee to within 99% that your resets will be gone (outside bad thermistor or several other non PDB components).

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Okay, you've got my attention. I don't have a scope, nor do I know anyone with one that's accessible. Is there something I should be checking that's NOT on the driver board? C31 on the CPU board?

You need to see both voltage (which you can do with a DMM) and *noise* (any AC component in said voltage), which you cannot see with a DMM. DC logic (e.g. the CPU) needs *clean* DC power to work properly. An AC component of materiality can and *will* cause a watchdog that is voltage-triggered to fire, and bang -- there's your reset.

If you just want to throw parts at the problem you'll probably fix it (eventually) but IMHO that's the wrong approach. Are IDC connectors less than ideal? Yeah, they are, and any connector has only so many cycles before it degrades (the ones used in this sort of application have rated mate/unmate cycle lives in the tens or hundreds, *not* large numbers of cycles, as they're not intended to be routinely plugged and unplugged) but unless you like unnecessary work it's IMHO crazy to just chase these problems with parts. It would be nice if pins were assembled with high-quality crimped-pin connectors as they're clearly superior, especially in a vibration-prone environment, but they're not (and if they were then you'd have to own the correct crimper to make quality wiring repairs, and the proper crimpers designed by the manufacturers of those connectors are *not* cheap.)

I would remove the CPU board and examine it closely under magnification to see if you can detect any sort of problem with the solder joints around the connectors. Those sort of problems are common; I had a DMD that was flaky on my Apollo 13 which proved up to be a bad connection at the header on the DMD power board. But if you've already checked those visually then out comes the 'scope and start looking at the power. If you find noise you work your way back until you find the source (the point beyond which it's clean) or you get to the filter cap; on the other side should be CLEAN rectified but not filtered DC (if so then you replace the filter cap.) Beyond the bridge should be *clean* AC. If you have a bad connector then replace it but first know where the problem is rather than scatter-shot changing out parts.

The fewer times you have to rework a PC board the better; changing out parts on one for grins and giggles is IMHO a bad idea as there is always a risk of lifting a trace or breaking a through-hole's plating and then you're in for a lot more troubleshooting and work.

#23 3 years ago

I'm gonna let this sit for a few days while I consider my options. I don't have, nor am I going to purchase a 200 buck used 'scope to fix a 300 buck board. I don't have enough parts on hand to just shotgun all these connectors either.

I still feel like it's HIGHLY dubious that it's the driver board at this point, because the game resets with a known working one. I'm about ready to stick the No Fear driver board into WCS just to prove the point.

I'll update again when I have time to actually do something, or get something done.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

'm about ready to stick the No Fear driver board into WCS just to prove the point.

Do that. I'd like to see the results. I bet it doesn't reset.

Here's one someone mentioned to me recently that I haven't had time to include in the PinWiki.
Make sure the line voltage fuse connection is solid. Remove the fuse. Sand the conductors and reinstall. Shot in the dark...might work.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Jumpers between BR2 and C5

Mike....ugly bugly. Trust your part removal technique my friend and lose the jumpers.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#26 3 years ago

subscribing, currently working on a reset problem with my Corvette. Would like to see how this is resolved.

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Mike....ugly bugly. Trust your part removal technique my friend and lose the jumpers.

I don't use the jumpers but the last few that I've done had already been 'reworked' by someone else. It's been a while since I've a clean PDB that has never been touched. The last one I've done was just this week and it was heavily reworked. Just about all the bridges and caps were replaced previously. There was not much left of some plated through holes and pads on the 12V circuit and that caused some WEIRD opto issues. I had to run jumpers. Now that I have a nice desoldering station I can remove without damaging traces/pads; but I figured I'd throw that out as most don't and compromised traces/pads will make you pull your hair out.

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Do that. I'd like to see the results. I bet it doesn't reset.
Here's one someone mentioned to me recently that I haven't had time to include in the PinWiki.
Make sure the line voltage fuse connection is solid. Remove the fuse. Sand the conductors and reinstall. Shot in the dark...might work.

That's interesting. At least the power box is already open because I tried to bypass the thermistor and haven't removed the jumper yet.

There's some fat jumpers on the BR's and caps on the No Fear board tying some points together. Didn't want to remove them until I was going to replace any of those components I needed to, but I think I'm going to go ahead and bite the bullet on this too, because it's just another point of failure and making anything harder to diagnose......not that it keeps the WCS driver board from resetting too, since it's jumper free. Ha.

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

compromised traces/pads will make you pull your hair out.

Yeaaaaaaah....this board...lol...last owner porked 9 through holes/traces/pads on one 20 pin IC... you can imagine what everything else they touched looks like...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-fear-high-power-solenoids-wont-fire-from-testplay#post-3180291

#30 3 years ago

Favorites for posterity sake.

OP, I am sorry youre going through this. If it is any consolation to you, some of us are paying attention and learning from this so we know what to do down the road.

I'm sure it'll get resolved soon. Hang in there!

#31 3 years ago

Thanks man. I'm a stubborn arse when it comes to not paying other people to fix my games, so I'm sure it'll get resolved sooner or later! 5 years in and haven't ever paid to have a tech come out or a board repaired yet...

#32 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Everything goes dead, the game tries to reboot, but will often light a few pixels from whatever was in memory on the DMD for a split second, or you'll get 1/10th of a second of sound tied to whatever was going on in the game

isn't the blanking circuit supposed to prevent this type behavior?

#33 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Yeaaaaaaah....this board...lol...last owner porked 9 through holes/traces/pads on one 20 pin IC... you can imagine what everything else they touched looks like...

This type of board abuse makes me sad

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This type of board abuse makes me sad

Yep, but I was still able to get it working, so it could've been worse. Not much...but it could've been. Just for laughs, I tried to solder stitch one of those tiny traces...I actually got a little 2-wire stitch attached to it, but I knocked the long wire hanging out the bottom side of the board on the table, and it just popped off. Would've been nice to have that instead of a jumper, but there's just not enough trace for it to stick to.

I have no idea about the blanking circuit.

#35 3 years ago

Pay Clay $20 for his pinball ninja website, he covers tons of reset issues with videos. Best money you will spend.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Would've been nice to have that instead of a jumper, but there's just not enough trace for it to stick to.

This is where eyelets come into play, I actually never use the stitch method and always eyelet the board since they will outlast the board if installed properly. This is a picture of a board I repaired after someone pulled burned resistors with a soldering gun.
eyelet_repair_(resized).jpg

#37 3 years ago

Did you reflow the solder on the back of j102 yet?

Stiching is fine.

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Did you reflow the solder on the back of j102 yet?
Stiching is fine.

Working all day today, got tired of futzing with it last night. I'm just soaking up knowledge and ordering parts for the time being. I dunno, I might pull the CPU board tonight, but feeling like I need a break from the thing before I end up punching it in the ASIC.

I've always wanted one of those eyelet repair kits, but most of them I've seen are really expensive. I don't mind doing the stitch, at least not on medium/large traces... it's only those hair thin ones that would really benefit for me.

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

I've always wanted one of those eyelet repair kits, but most of them I've seen are really expensive.

They are expensive; I happened to come across a manufacturer sample kit that contained 10's of thousands of copper board repair eyelets, and since I have all the ball mills, there really is no reason for me to stitch anything.

#40 3 years ago

You really want to check the 5 volts for ripple. While a scope is by far the best method, you can do a poor man's version of testing with a decent meter. Put it on the lowest AC range and measure from 5 volts to ground--cheap meters will give you really wacky readings, like 10 volts for example. If you have another machine you can compare the readings between known good and unknown.

While not as cool as an eyelet press, you can put together the tools to do eyelets for about $50.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/230-repairing-plated-through-holes

#41 3 years ago

I forgot to mention the eyelet insertion equipment

That is kind of an important detail.

#42 3 years ago

I feel your pain, Frax.

My No Fear driver board was hacked also. I just wholesale replaced ALL the bridge rectifiers and related electrolytics, a new LM323K, new J120, J121, J101, J102, J115, and a few others just for the hell of it, among other things.

I have a Pace desoldering station from the 1980's with a complete trace/eyelet/solder pad restoration kit that I use for all my PCB repairs, plus I have the advantage of being trained in PCB rework by TRW/NASA, so I guess I'm lucky in that regard.

terryb is correct. Don't stop at the 5 volts, though. Check the 12 volts that the 5 volts is derived from also. Personally, I check all regulated voltages in the machine. I don't bother much with the unregulated for obvious reasons unless there are fuses blowing.

If you would like, I have a personally scanned copy of the No Fear manual I can send you if you need/want it, and also archived copies of Clay's guide for WPC repair in either PDF or Word format.

I would be happy to share them with you if you have the need or desire. Just send me a PM.

Greg

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

I'm about ready to stick the No Fear driver board into WCS just to prove the point.

Based on you mentioning this in your first post

Quoted from Frax:

TP2 on the driver board shows 5.04v, consistently.

I have no doubt that the driver board is good without you swapping the board. So it is at least making it to the J114 with a solid 5 volts. You are losing some voltage due to resistance through either the J114 female/male and/or J210 female/male connections.

Think of it just like the GI connectors in WPC games. As the resistance builds up on J120 and J121, the voltage to the bulbs gets lower. Thus, whole strings of lights are dim or even completely off depending on which pins are affected.

#44 3 years ago

So...pulled the CPU board last night to repin the power header and my wife noticed something while looking over the board... the ASIC socket was cracked on two sides. The rest of the board was extremely clean, and I'd venture to say 100% original. I went ahead and replaced the headers, going to repin the connector too just as preventitive measure, but at this point, I'm finding it really hard to see how that socket could have held proper tension on the ASIC with one side being moveable by finger. I cleaned out all the solder, then cut up the socket and removed all the pins. I don't have another one on hand, so I'm now going to be waiting for parts or trying to locate one tomorrow at our local surplus shop.

#45 3 years ago

I feel like I did a decent job without a desoldering tool other than a soldapullt.

20160605_214609_(resized).jpg

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

the ASIC socket was cracked on two sides.

That would do it.

I was taught the first three steps in troubleshooting are visual inspection, visual inspection and visual inspection. Over the years I would bet I've found 60% of board problems thanks to that advice.

You've got contact adhesion on a few of those pins--not surprising with a solder sucker. Heat them with a soldering iron and use a spudger (wooden dowel with beveled edge) to push them towards the center of the through-hole. Before you remove the socket give it a clockwise and counter-clockwise twist. That should break free any remaining solder.

You really don't want to damage any traces/pads on the ASIC. They're a bitch to fix.

#47 3 years ago

Just realized I uploaded the wrong pic ..that was before I actually removed the socket and pins from the board. =P Didn't damage anything other than one tiny bit of solder mask, and I already tested that just to be sure it was not actually nicked on the trace. I used a toothpick to break free the few pins that were still partially adhered. Removing these sockets is a real PITA...I wouldn't recommend it for anyone not fairly confident in their abilities.

#48 3 years ago

Frax-
You did an excellent job with just a soldapullt. You may want to try some solder wick also, make sure it's got rosin in it to wick up all the remaining solder.

GREAT job.

Greg

#49 3 years ago

Very nice job on the desoldering, I would have never even attempted that without a desoldering station, it's just to big a risk ... especially if its someone else's board

#50 3 years ago

Put in the new PLCC socket this afternoon , and the resetting SEEMS to be resolved...and that's with the WPC driver board that was putting out the lower voltage. Super happy about that.

I did hit another snag where the coin door switches wouldn't work immediately after that, but it was tracked down to a black wire on a coin acceptor switch popping off. Soldered it back on and all good. Stupid daisy chained common wires. :p

Will be putting the original driver board back in tonight and if it's stable, updating and marking this thread resolved, and starting teardown and cleanup!

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