Game was working fine before I installed a socketed 6264 NVRAM from Pinitech. Now when I turned the game back on after plugging all the cables back in, the only activity I see on the CPU board is the three lights which turn on with the one in the middle blinking. The LED's on the other boards all light up fine. The GI, controlled lights and DMD don't light up. I'm wondering if the old RAM isn't a 6264 and is a 62256. The old unsocketed RAM IC is marked LH5268A-10LL. Any thoughts on other causes why the game won't boot?

Everything is plugged in correctly. Anything else I should check?

All cables were reseated with no improvement.

The old ram didn’t survive. I had to clip most of the legs since it wouldn’t come out after I used my desoldering gun…

Here’s a picture. I was very careful in desoldering the old ram. I did mess up a year or two ago on a Pinbot, but at least I got a message on the display saying RAM failure. After I did a couple of jumper wires, all was well. Appreciate everyone’s help!

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Here are pictures of the front and back of the board.

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Here’s something else. While everything seemed like it checked good with the multimeter, I pulled the socket and found a pad was gone on the component side, which I could of swore was there when I put the socket in. I put a new pad in and fixed another pad on the underside. I put the socket back in and reinstalled the NVRAM with no improvement. I also tried removing R93 and installed a jumper at W3 per the Pinitech instructions but that didn’t do anything either.

Next bit out troubleshooting I did was to remove the W3 jumper and put R93 back in, put in a spare 6264 RAM and reconnected the remote battery pack. That didn't fix it, but I wonder in the EPROM at U6 was the problem. I normally work on my kitchen table for the extra light and I wonder if that erased U6 since it has a small window on it. On other thing, throughout all of this on the CPU board, D19 and D21 stay lit, while D20 slowly flashes.

Yes, I did it yesterday but no improvement. Now I’m rechecking continuity between each leg of the NVRAM and the rest of the board in case one of the pads or traces has a problem.

I fixed that one and found several other pads that no longer connected to U6 and ran several jumper wires. I did finally get a bong sound after I turn on the game and the D20 led no longer lights so that is an improvement. I'm pretty close to sending the board off to Chris Hibler, pay for the repair and chalk this one up to things to continue to always be extra careful with...

The board is off to Chris Hibler for repair. Crossing my fingers he can repair it.

Chris was able to fix the board, now just waiting for it to be delivered later today. Total time was one and a half weeks from the time I mailed it off to receiving it back repaired. Talk about speedy quality service! Below is Chris showing a summary of what he did and the board running

Got the repaired board back from Chris who even did away will all of the jumper wires. Highly recommend ChrisHibler if you need board repair!

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