(Topic ID: 308120)

Solved: No Fear WPC NVRAM install = won't boot

By ElCid95

2 years ago


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#1 2 years ago

Game was working fine before I installed a socketed 6264 NVRAM from Pinitech. Now when I turned the game back on after plugging all the cables back in, the only activity I see on the CPU board is the three lights which turn on with the one in the middle blinking. The LED's on the other boards all light up fine. The GI, controlled lights and DMD don't light up. I'm wondering if the old RAM isn't a 6264 and is a 62256. The old unsocketed RAM IC is marked LH5268A-10LL. Any thoughts on other causes why the game won't boot?

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

I see on the CPU board is the three lights which turn on with the one in the middle blinking.

Seems correct to me. The middle blinks about every half second. The top led should be off and bottom LED to indicate that it has 5 volts so it should be on.

Maybe you have the short ribbon cable plugged in one row off, either at the MPU or at the driver board.

When you replace a battery or install NVRAM, it will be the same. You will have "Factory Settings Restored" and will not have any attract mode or GI until you can exit that message. Worse case, it seems you don't have your DMD screen.

#3 2 years ago

Also make sure you don't have any of these connections one row off.

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#4 2 years ago

Everything is plugged in correctly. Anything else I should check?

#5 2 years ago

Reseat those ribbon cables. Easy to get one row off and not be able to tell by looking at some of them while they are plugged in.

#6 2 years ago

All cables were reseated with no improvement.

#7 2 years ago

Double check the area around the repaired socket

Check continuity from both sides of the board

Chances are a trace might of been accidentally torn - should be an easy fix

#8 2 years ago

Does it boot with the old ram installed?

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from loneranger:

Does it boot with the old ram installed?

The old ram didn’t survive. I had to clip most of the legs since it wouldn’t come out after I used my desoldering gun…

#10 2 years ago

Seems you damaged tracks when desoldering the old RAM?

Your post doesn't make it terribly clear that you did this.

The tracks on these boards are VERY thin and delicate - easily damaged as it seems you have demonstrated!

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

The old ram didn’t survive. I had to clip most of the legs since it wouldn’t come out after I used my desoldering gun…

Can you take some close up, well lit pictures of the RAM area, front and back of the board please.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Can you take some close up, well lit pictures of the RAM area, front and back of the board please.

Here’s a picture. I was very careful in desoldering the old ram. I did mess up a year or two ago on a Pinbot, but at least I got a message on the display saying RAM failure. After I did a couple of jumper wires, all was well. Appreciate everyone’s help!

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#13 2 years ago

You need to cover your EPROM with some tape to keep it from getting bit rot. That might be a problem there. Can you post some pictures with the NVRAM removed so we can see the through holes and traces. Close up pictures with difference eyes might spot something missed.

#14 2 years ago

With power off, try pressing on the square U9 ASIC chip to see if that helps.

If you are missing a signal, likely be going out to U1 to U3. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/6/6d/WPC89_CPU_compnt-side_ZAZ_FEB2017-10.jpg

#15 2 years ago

Here are pictures of the front and back of the board.

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#16 2 years ago

You are on the money in your first post,you have used the incorrect NVram try the 62256

#17 2 years ago

Jumper Settings:
6264 = install R93 (1.5k ohm resistor) and remove jumper W3
*Only needed if your existing ram IS NOT a 6264

Which is already set for 6264 on this board.

#18 2 years ago

Here’s something else. While everything seemed like it checked good with the multimeter, I pulled the socket and found a pad was gone on the component side, which I could of swore was there when I put the socket in. I put a new pad in and fixed another pad on the underside. I put the socket back in and reinstalled the NVRAM with no improvement. I also tried removing R93 and installed a jumper at W3 per the Pinitech instructions but that didn’t do anything either.

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

I also tried removing R93 and installed a jumper at W3 per the Pinitech instructions but that didn’t do anything either.

What you did here would require the 62256 NVRAM.

As I mentioned in post #17, the board was already configured for a 6264 RAM/NVRAM. So based on the original jumper settings, W3 removed and R93 installed, the LH5268A-10L was a 6264 compatible RAM.

#20 2 years ago

Next bit out troubleshooting I did was to remove the W3 jumper and put R93 back in, put in a spare 6264 RAM and reconnected the remote battery pack. That didn't fix it, but I wonder in the EPROM at U6 was the problem. I normally work on my kitchen table for the extra light and I wonder if that erased U6 since it has a small window on it. On other thing, throughout all of this on the CPU board, D19 and D21 stay lit, while D20 slowly flashes.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

Next bit out troubleshooting I did was to remove the W3 jumper, put R93 back in, put in a spare 6264 RAM and reconnected the remote battery pack. That didn't fix it, but I wonder in the EPROM at U6 was the problem. I normally work on my kitchen table for the extra light and I wonder if that erased U6 since it has a small window on it.

#22 2 years ago

I don't think the game ROM is the problem right now. It gets affected more with direct UV light.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

With power off, try pressing on the square U9 ASIC chip to see if that helps.
If you are missing a signal, likely be going out to U1 to U3. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/6/6d/WPC89_CPU_compnt-side_ZAZ_FEB2017-10.jpg

Tried this yet? Maybe press on al the socketed ICs.

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I don't think the game ROM is the problem right now. It gets affected more with direct UV light.

Tried this yet? Maybe press on al the socketed ICs.

Yes, I did it yesterday but no improvement. Now I’m rechecking continuity between each leg of the NVRAM and the rest of the board in case one of the pads or traces has a problem.

#24 2 years ago

THIS ^^^^

#25 2 years ago

^^ Start with pin 2. That one appears to have the pad damage on the bottom of the board. Good chance that the plated thru hole going to top side of board is damaged along with the bottom pad.

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

Start with pin 2

That pin (address A12 @ U8-2) should have continuity with U9-11 and U25-4 (not used)

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#27 2 years ago

Looks like you might have some solder bridging on the front?

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#28 2 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

^^ Start with pin 2. That one appears to have the pad damage on the bottom of the board. Good chance that the plated thru hole going to top side of board is damaged along with the bottom pad.

I fixed that one and found several other pads that no longer connected to U6 and ran several jumper wires. I did finally get a bong sound after I turn on the game and the D20 led no longer lights so that is an improvement. I'm pretty close to sending the board off to Chris Hibler, pay for the repair and chalk this one up to things to continue to always be extra careful with...

1 week later
#29 2 years ago

The board is off to Chris Hibler for repair. Crossing my fingers he can repair it.

1 week later
#30 2 years ago

Chris was able to fix the board, now just waiting for it to be delivered later today. Total time was one and a half weeks from the time I mailed it off to receiving it back repaired. Talk about speedy quality service! Below is Chris showing a summary of what he did and the board running

#31 2 years ago

Got the repaired board back from Chris who even did away will all of the jumper wires. Highly recommend ChrisHibler if you need board repair!

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#32 2 years ago

Chris is the best. Thanks for sharing the update!

#33 2 years ago

After problems solved, a machine booting up is one of the best feelings in life! Congrats. Chris’s has done great work for me.

#34 2 years ago

Thank you all. Happy to help.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

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