(Topic ID: 290735)

No Fear: Check F114 and F115 fuses message driving me nuts

By Alan_L

3 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Alan_L
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

Right slingshot coil on No Fear was inoperative when I acquired the machine. Replaced coil (.003 ohms), replaced TIP102 and 2 resistors (burnt).
Still doesn't work. Coil fires when transistor tab is grounded. Coil does not fire in coil test.
Stumped.

#2 3 years ago

Do you have the manual?

#3 3 years ago

No manual, on order.

#4 3 years ago

Here is some info. I can send whatever.

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#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Right slingshot coil on No Fear was inoperative when I acquired the machine. Replaced coil (.003 ohms), replaced TIP102 and 2 resistors (burnt).
Still doesn't work. Coil fires when transistor tab is grounded. Coil does not fire in coil test.
Stumped.

If they were burnt did you check for continuity from the replaced components to the next component they are going to? Also the pre driver transistor is something you'll want to check as well.

#6 3 years ago

Do you have the pre-driver number for Q56 on No Fear?
Also, I just powered it up and now it won't boot, and the DMD says, chech fuses F115 & F116 (removed and checked: good), J112: good and Opto 12 volt low power. Arrrr.

#8 3 years ago

Thanks Lloyd, and the rest of you guys.
I just discovered that the LED on the Opto board is out, meaning I have no 12 volts to the optos. Going to keep checking tomorrow.
Right now I'm hitting the sack.

#9 3 years ago

Here's the latest: Original problem was right slingshot inoperative. Cannot check that now because I am getting the "Check fuse F114 and F115" message, and the outhole kicker continues to fire over and over. The game will not go into Test Mode.

On the Power Driver board, I am getting 12vdc on TP1 (correct), no volts on TP3, and 16vdc on TP 8 (should be 18, maybe correct).

I have since reset all ribbon cables repeatedly, replaced Q2 7812 voltage regulator and capacitor C2. All solder joints tested for continuity. No change.

I swapped the 16-opto board with my SS. No change.

The next steps according to Pinwiki are to replace BR-1 and capacitors C6 and C7. Upon inspecting the board, I see that all four have been replaced. The bridges test good and the work looks OK. Diodes D1 and D2 test good. Also testing good was BR-5. And now I'm at the end of the checklist.

What did I miss? Any other questions or ideas? I'm trying to get this machine ready for Pinbrew, but I want it working and solid.

Again, thanks for your help guys,

Alan

#10 3 years ago

Remove Driver Board Connector J114

Power up machine and check TP 3 again it should have 12 VDC.

If it does then you need to measure for a short circuit or low resistance to ground on the 12 Volt pins 1 & 2 with respect to J114

Keep checking the integrity of F115 during this procedure

If you dont have 12 VDC on TP3 then the board is still faulty. 16 volts is a sure sign that your board needs new 15,000 UF caps
but its still more than enough to run the 12 Volt Reg, so you need to pay attention to the Circuit Board Tracks around Q2 and C2

The 12 Volts on TP 3 only goes to the CPU Board and the Fliptronics Board

The 12 Volts on TP 1 is unregulated and goes to a lot more destinations like your Opto Board...Stay focused only on the Power Supply right now.

#11 3 years ago

Thanks WH20_Buzz.
I pulled J114, still only millivolts at TP3. Will replace C6 and C7 and report. Re-re-checking C2 & Q2 area.

#12 3 years ago

0D0CEF83-EA0A-4FFB-A397-872F2D8F1571 (resized).jpeg0D0CEF83-EA0A-4FFB-A397-872F2D8F1571 (resized).jpegI had similar problems on a TZ. It was the 12V failing. Are you sure the 12V is working and not intermittently failing. C2 tends to leak over time and do damage to the board.

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#13 3 years ago

Yep...these things are 30 years old now and they ALL needed Blanket Electro Cap change on ALL the Boards 10 years ago.
This is why you are seeing Opto Board failing.
Just changing out the 15,000 UF caps on the Driver Board was the thing to do 10 or 15 years ago.

Now you need to change all the secondary Electro Caps or be prepared for failure after failure

Just like the GI lighting Connectors. The others like the AC input Connectors are now giving trouble.

Even the sound Boards are giving problems now...for 20 years the sound Boards never gave any issues.
Now they are and its all because no-one does any maintenance.

#14 3 years ago

Well, I have replaced c6 and c7, I have removed this board and re-installed it five times, R&R'd br1, re-re-re-checked c2 and Q2, and done dozens of continuity checks.
I just noticed by accident that I have continuity between the negative leg and the DC positive leg on all bridges. Is that correct, or do I have one helluva short in this thing?

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