I never had any issues either....more of an operator thing than home use.
Hi guys. Hoping someone can help me out. I get to multiball and the pin says "get ready for multiball" but the jackpot light never lights and it stays in 1 ball play. any thoughts???
Thanks
Henry
I had that problem with mine. It was a bad opto in the subway somewhere. Check them out in the switch test to see if they are working. Clean them while in there, if you haven't done so yet. Good luck!
Quoted from henhel:any thoughts???
Also balls can stick in the subway because of dirt and not enough pitch on the game.
Bought my No Fear for about 1 month ago.
Finally I got one, this is a real keeper.
I bought a valvoline nascar and put a red led in it and placed in the upper right corner, i think it looks really nice.
New orange rubber and on all posts.
All new flippers and coils and a new jump ramp
Man....this thread needs some paddles to the heart, so let's kick it and give it a start!
Picked up a 'project' NF last night. Saw the craigslist ad 13 minutes after it was posted, sent the message, messaged Quiddity (my wife), and asked if she was up for a road trip. Guy was super nice, said he'd hold the game, and took down the ad without me asking him to do so!
Drove from Dallas to Seminole, OK (360 miles round trip) after work last night. Got out of work at 6:30pm, showed up around 11pm. Was pulled off a route, dirty, faded cabinet, playfield looked good of what we could see. I didn't see a melted ramp but may have missed it.. /frustrated a bit. The op that owned the game showed me that there were two connectors that look like they had caught on fire... no biggie, I can cut those back and repin them. Next? Driver board looks clean, I asked if this was the board that burned up, said no, it's a working one he swapped in. Well...okay! Game had a manual with it, so today I'm looking through it... I remembered which connectors were toast...sure enough, it's the solenoid drive, on the side with the magnets. /facepalm
So figuring that the primary issue with the game is one of the three magnets is toast at this point. Unfortunately, I still have to repin two molex connectors before I can do squat with the game. Bleh. Oh..and I have to unload it and get it into the house becuase we didn't get home until 5:30 AM and I'm working today...shift started at 9:30, and I leave the house at 8:30... SUPER AWESOME..
Kind of like the price. 1100. I'll have more pics after I get it unloaded tonight.
I've got a pretty cool mod for No Fear.
Lit drop targets...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-product-lit-roll-over-drop-target
Quoted from TheLaw:Yeah to find NF WITHOUT a dead mag is impossible if buying form a non pinhead. NF PFs are usually good other than dented inlane where the ball drops. Enjoy!
I tested the magnet coil resistances last night.. Looks like two of them are about 4-5 ohms, and the other one is like... 0.7 ohms. Internally shorted much?
I don't know how...but somehow both the autoplunger and kickback coils are melted, AND the nylon plunger tips are totally screwed up....so all that has to be replaced. The DMD looks good but is on the fritz here and there...probably just needs a new data cable or reflow those joints.
The ramp the magnets are under is definitely toasty and melted, and the other one is cracked as usual.
After tinkering with it and fuses last night, the game boots, DMD is on, controlled playfield lights are working (Connector is melted, but still fully working. I need a new crimper that can handle tiny wires and the pins for this 22-24 gauge garbage..ugh..) Sound works, but the cabinet speaker gets no sound...I have no idea what's up with that..
Does the skull work? That was a tricky little one I didn't think aboot when I bought mine...turned out the coil and a few pieces inside were missing...that was a lame ass $25 fix I didn't see
Finished the shopping of No Fear last week. Full tear down, LEDs, ramp Cliffys installed, fire Pinblades installed, blue LED strip inside the Tube area, white LED strips behind the Racetrack ball guides (behind Skull), extra spotlights installed to light up the car I placed on the left ramp gate and the car to the left of Skull, added orange LED strip to give some color to above the laser kick, added a white LED strip to the other side of the jump ramp to illuminate skull better, red LED strips under the backbox so the upper playfield ramps have a light red glow.
Only issue I need to fix is replacing the GI connector on the board because the upper GI is out. The GI around the skull (racetracks stands plastics) and each top corner is out. So the upper playfield will be brighter looking once those plastics are lit.
Quoted from PoMC:Only issue I need to fix is replacing the GI connector on the board because the upper GI is out.
Also standard NF crispy board connectors
Yeah, this one connector was repaired at one point because it's two connectors on one set of pins. Like someone had a 2 pin connector and a 9 pin connector or whatever. It's just those two pins causing the issue. But was waiting to repair so I can try out my desoldering station I got this weekend at Allentown.
Quoted from TheLaw:Does the skull work? That was a tricky little one I didn't think aboot when I bought mine...turned out the coil and a few pieces inside were missing...that was a lame ass $25 fix I didn't see
Well, I have poked around and done my initial assesment..not great, not horrible.
Game boots, sound works, DMD works, controlled lamps work (now), cabinet switches and playfield physical switches work (now).
Almost nothing works...solenoid wise. The only thing I have CONFIRMED working at all is the slingshots and ball eject. I'm pretty sure every other coil in this game is toast. I repinned the melted connector that housed all the VIO-whatever solenoid pins.
Verified screwed: Knocker, Plunger, Kickback, Right popper, one magnet coil.
Verified working: Drop Target up, slingshots
Doesn't work but not melted: Drop target down
Totally unknown because I have no bloody idea how to get to it: Skull jaw
I have like barely any working GI, no flashers, no optos......it's a project for sure, and I really have little idea where to start with this much wrong. It's frustrating for sure, but I've fixed just as bad before. It's just going to take parts, and a lot of time. =\
Confirmed two magnets I thought are good, are indeed fine. Went into flipper test, and big fat zero. Really hoping that's related to whatever is causing the other crap to not work. -__-
As an FYI, the ramp set is listed as back in stock at Marco Pinball, for those of us with melted ramps. Mine is still useable enough that I can't justify the $220 right now. If I decide it's a long term keeper, then all bets are off
Quoted from PoMC:Start testing all the transistors because likely a few are bad.
Yeah, I pulled the driver board last night. Hopefully will get a better look at it tonight, but it seems like there's a few jumpers on the back that I'm not excited about. One set seems to tie together some of the bridge rectifier legs together, then to a capacitor, and another two looks like it was to repair damaged traces or through holes when a chip was socketed.
There's no 20v on the board, so I'm probably going to start with that rectifier, since it was clearly replaced. I'd bet there's probably pulled through-holes on that rectifier and it's associated capacitor, or a blown trace somewhere along that line. Just disappointed because the guy told me it was a working driver board. Oh well.
Quoted from setzkor:As an FYI, the ramp set is listed as back in stock at Marco Pinball, for those of us with melted ramps. Mine is still useable enough that I can't justify the $220 right now. If I decide it's a long term keeper, then all bets are off
The good thing aboot NF is with good magents, the burnt ramp doesn't affect anything really. I bought a back up ramp because mine was melted, and had glue and crap on it from op glueing a metal strip over the magnets. Never even put it on because everything worked fine.
Quoted from TheLaw:The good thing aboot NF is with good magents, the burnt ramp doesn't affect anything really. I bought a back up ramp because mine was melted, and had glue and crap on it from op glueing a metal strip over the magnets. Never even put it on because everything worked fine.
Ha, mine had the exact same modification, heavy glue and a piece of metal. Just tossed it in the garbage at Pinfest, had it on the table to see if anyone wanted it.
Funny you guys should mention that. In the "goodie bag" that was inside mine, I found a piece of lane guide that doesn't appear to be broken off of anything, BUT....has large amounts of some "former" adhesive on it. Guess this must have been a common fix thing that circulated around the operator community back in the day. Was worried that it was busted off of something, but sounds like probably not and was just taken from another game and used here...
Ugh. Futher unraveling the disaster that is No Fear...this is getting epically frustrating at this point.
Pulled the driver board. Put in the driver board from my WCS. Oh look, everything works...sorta.....what was that flash of light?
Went through five fuses before I finally pulled the low power solenoid connector. Put in another fuse, started looking for things to disconnect. I had known from BEFORE with the old driver board that the slingshots, left eject, and drop target up all worked without killing anything. What I did NOT know was that the skull jaw didn't work for good reason.
On the old board..it simply never fired...so that transistor or something along that circuit is dead.
BUTTTTTT....since the WCS board is fully operational......guess what? Game keeps trying to fire it, killing the fuse instantly. Now, it's to the point where even shutting the coin door with the skull connector plugged in at all blows a fuse, so now I've got two problems, maybe three extra....
1. Something is obviously shorted inside the skull to that solenoid and causing the fuses to blow.
2. Likely I have killed the transistor for the skull jaw at this point and it's locked on, which is causing the fuse to blow just by shutting the coin door. Lovely.
3. I have to realize that the solenoid inside the skull is probably toast. I can't move the jaw by hand with any real success beyond a few millimeters.
This thing is killing my soul.
The good news: With the WCS driver board, optos have power, verified the playfield GI circuits all work, flashers and flippers work. So the flipper board is good, and most of the optos are good. Two sets on the magnets...dead. Showing open all the time, so that's yet more work and more likely repair or replacement.
The driver board from NF is a POS and has a lot of fixing needed. I'm afraid to even try to send pictures to Rob or Clive to get an idea of what it would cost to have it professionally fixed....no doubt I'm just going to have to do it myself.
DMD data cable is dead dead dead....again, cannabalized the one from WCS just to verify. Extremely angry right at the moment. I did get to flip a ball around a bit, and I think I'll really like the game once I get it going, but man, this is going to take FOREVER to get everything going. If I can't easily find another skull coil, I'm just not going to fix the skull and to hell with the moving jaw.
Wow, that's a lot of work you have. The skull can be turned off in the settings if that helps you though.
Doesn't matter if it can be turned off if transistor is locked on and a short in there somewhere is blowing a fuse any time there's power. Heh. That's why I disconnected the solenoid connector.
Anyone ever greased the slot in the cabinet? I'm having a REAL hard time pushing the playfield back in after having it up....not sure if the cabinet's warped, or it's just friction, or what...
Big parts order from PBL showed up today, so I have everything in hand, in theory, to get the game playable.
The small parts order from Marco that's basically just to fix the skull "talking".....says it was delivered yesterday and is GONE...not in my hands, not in the mailbox... FML..
Nice....like the orange in the cab and the black pc'd legs. Normally don't like most pc but that looks good imo
Actually that's epoxy paint. You can buy it now in aerosol cans at auto parts stores. Great stuff. Very durable.
Well, managed to get the kickback, shooter, and VUK working the other night. Also fixed an opto on the VUK assembly too. Drop target down decided to start working...not entirely sure why, but....game is officially playable (With my WCS's driver board in it...).
Still trying to figure out the cabinet slot issue along with how the heck do you get to the magnets? Remove everything from the playfield?
Quoted from Frax:Still trying to figure out the cabinet slot issue along with how the heck do you get to the magnets? Remove everything from the playfield?
If memory serves, they are on a little metal tray that is attached to the backboard. Which I believe can only be accessed from the front, but check the back to be sure. But I thik you have to take the jump ramp off...which of course means most other things.
Argh. The diagram in the manual looks like it's mounted via t-nuts, so no, there wouldn't be any access from the back. I was just wanting to remove the back panel whole and slide it out from under the ramp, but guessing that's not an option either?
Quoted from Frax:I was just wanting to remove the back panel whole and slide it out from under the ramp, but guessing that's not an option either?
Interesting theory...I don't think there's wiring in the front of the mags...just the back so It might work that way. I could look at shop out pics when I get home around 8:30est if you'd like...see if we can learn anything from them.
Quoted from Frax:Well, managed to get the kickback, shooter, and VUK working the other night. Also fixed an opto on the VUK assembly too. Drop target down decided to start working...not entirely sure why, but....game is officially playable (With my WCS's driver board in it...).
Still trying to figure out the cabinet slot issue along with how the heck do you get to the magnets? Remove everything from the playfield?
Gots to take the main ramp out. Skull and mount, too. Individual brackets under each magnet mount from front. No biggie...
Quoted from Jjsmooth:Gots to take the main ramp out. Skull and mount, too. Individual brackets under each magnet mount from front. No biggie...
Wouldn't be if Marco/USPS had managed to successfully get the parts for the skull to my door. >=(
Still waiting to hear anything from USPS on the claim.
I would rather do a full teardown once and do evrything right, than have to get back in the game 20 times to fix the magnets and optos, then again to put on new ramps, then again to do the rubber kit, then again to install new plastics...etc...etc ad infinitum.
Also need a pic of skull mount. Can't find anything in my parts box that looks right. The mount that attaches to the pf, that I guess spans the drop hole (I know, take pictures, but....)
Any help is appreciated.
Here's a link to all the photos I took when I shopped my No Fear a few weeks ago. Maybe some will help you out.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Helping a friend fix his no Fear...How does the top of the head come off. jaw wont move and and wanted to see wiring.
There is a small black screw on the top of skull; remove it, then pull the upper part of the skull outward at the bottom and it will pop free; it floats on a pair of narrow bushings. You do not need a lot of force; if you're pulling real hard you've got the wrong place!
This is one of the favorite tables in my collection. It's utterly brutal on missed shots though as they produce instant drains most of the time; not as bad as Apollo 13, but close.
Mine looks to have exactly the same level of janky-ness... But still can't believe someone designed it like that
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