Quoted from Pinstein:Thanks for that catch. What an oversight. I caught a few other little things too. Here it is again.[quoted image]
Wow that is beautiful! Do you think you could resize it for the graphic to be used in the Instruction card area?
Quoted from Pinstein:Thanks for that catch. What an oversight. I caught a few other little things too. Here it is again.[quoted image]
Wow that is beautiful! Do you think you could resize it for the graphic to be used in the Instruction card area?
I’m helping a friend out with his No Fear and I’m a bit at a loss and hoping for some help.
The fist main issue I suppose is we can’t get a game to start.
When you turn on the machine it displays a message “coin door open interlock disables high power” but the door is shut and a game won’t start.
Im looking for any advice as to what to check or do next.
Any advice is much appreciated!
Quoted from Hapidance:When you turn on the machine it displays a message “coin door open interlock disables high power” but the door is shut and a game won’t start.
This isn't a no fear specific question, so you may get more views elsewhere, but... start by inspecting the switch on the inside left of the coin door - that's the interlock switch. Any broken wires? Anything looks bad/wrong?
Quoted from Hapidance:I’m helping a friend out with his No Fear and I’m a bit at a loss and hoping for some help.
The fist main issue I suppose is we can’t get a game to start.
When you turn on the machine it displays a message “coin door open interlock disables high power” but the door is shut and a game won’t start.
Im looking for any advice as to what to check or do next.
Any advice is much appreciated!
Door might be shut but is the switch closed ? Keep the coin door open and push the switch in with ur finger and turn the game on, then u will see if the switch is working or not
Just bought a NF.. awesome game! Having a blast with it so far. Quick question- I noticed that when I hit the skydive shot a lot of the time, especially with I hit it with decent speed, it seems to skip right over the scoop and come back to the flippers. Is there supposed to be a piece of rubber or something to prevent that from happening? I can't imagine it was designed so you have to hit it slow for it to go in the scoop?
Quoted from data_eastside:Just bought a NF.. awesome game! Having a blast with it so far. Quick question- I noticed that when I hit the skydive shot a lot of the time, especially with I hit it with decent speed, it seems to skip right over the scoop and come back to the flippers. Is there supposed to be a piece of rubber or something to prevent that from happening? I can't imagine it was designed so you have to hit it slow for it to go in the scoop?
I'm not understanding "skip right over the scoop"... Are you talking about it bouncing off the drop target?
Quoted from yzfguy:I'm not understanding "skip right over the scoop"... Are you talking about it bouncing off the drop target?
No- when the drop target is down and I shoot it into the skydive shot it frequently just comes straight back to the flippers. Like it goes over the scoop, hits the metal behind the scoop, and comes back down the lane towards the flippers
I'm guessing that's the curved metal piece that sends it downward? I would think so, I can't picture how it could miss the hole otherwise, as it has never happened on mine.
No Fear is one of the game so really haven't modded. I like mirror blades on mine, and I painted the no fear on the right lower cliff red.... That's about it. I don't like the look of toys stuck on it at all.
Cliffy’s, especially for the jump ramp
Color DMD (LED)
Upper flipper bushing if needed
I added a comet led strip to back of cabinet, helps illuminate back of playfield.
Not many must do mods for this machine, which is nice, imo
ps. Make sure the kickback is adjusted to send the ball to the right track loop..
90D4FAEC-8CED-4D29-BF94-151EBA2BF561 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from joeaf:Cliffy’s, especially for the jump ramp
Color DMD (LED)
Upper flipper bushing if needed
I added a comet led strip to back of cabinet, helps illuminate back of playfield.
Not many must do mods for this machine, which is nice, imo
ps. Make sure the kickback is adjusted to send the ball to the right track loop..
[quoted image]
Very well said sir ! ( except for LED instead of LCD )
Quoted from data_eastside:I dialed in the flippers and gave her a good waxing and it's playing so smooth. Really loving this game so far. Are there any must have mods ?
[quoted image]
ColorDMD LCD (nicer than LED imo), mirror blades, pinsound, led ocd, led bulbs!
Quoted from data_eastside:I had spinner snap when playing today. Is there any solution other than replacing it? Also how do I get the other side off so I can keep playing until it's fixed? It seems like the metal arm is attached to the spinner and the other side doesn't come out from the gate
[quoted image]
here is a link to buy a new one.
Quoted from Juicerc51:here is a link to buy a new one.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-10062
Thank you. Looking closer it looks like there's no way to repair so I'll just order a new one.
Quoted from Kawydud:New translite came in the other day, got to install it last night. Looks great![quoted image]
That does look pretty good, where is it sold?
Quoted from allsportdvd:That does look pretty good, where is it sold?
Shoot Pinstein a message, here is the post where he shared the artwork. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-fear-club-play-better/page/21#post-7307284
Quoted from mollyspub:Can anyone tell me if the kickback is supposed to launch the ball into the track?
Yes into the racetrack ,right hand side
Quoted from mollyspub:Can anyone tell me if the kickback is supposed to launch the ball into the track?
But depending on how fast the ball enters the outlane, the ball wont always accurately make the right hand side racetrack, but most of the time yes, RH racetrack
Quoted from ClassicHornet:But depending on how fast the ball enters the outlane, the ball wont always accurately make the right hand side racetrack, but most of the time yes, RH racetrack
How do you calibrate the kickback to consistently make the side racetrack? Mine does it 1 / 10 times, it is so great to see it make the track on the seldom times it successfully does.
Quoted from cws204:How do you calibrate the kickback to consistently make the side racetrack? Mine does it 1 / 10 times, it is so great to see it make the track on the seldom times it successfully does.
I messed with this for weeks….I looked over many Video. Believe it or not. It wasn’t originally designed too…
Quoted from Gorgar666:I messed with this for weeks….I looked over many Video. Believe it or not. It wasn’t originally designed too…
Also cut off quick connectors on all coils and solder directly…
Quoted from Gorgar666:Also cut off quick connectors on all coils and solder directly…
More power….
Quoted from cws204:How do you calibrate the kickback to consistently make the side racetrack? Mine does it 1 / 10 times, it is so great to see it make the track on the seldom times it successfully does.
The exit of the kickback has a metal rail leading to a star post and rubber. The metal rail has a little adjustment room under the plastic and spotlight. If the end of the rail has peening from ball impacts it can affect the trajectory as well. Take a look there and then at the switch(a clean new coil sleeve helps too). My game sends it to the RH track almost every time and my machine is leveled at 7.5 deg.
Quoted from joeaf:The exit of the kickback has a metal rail leading to a star post and rubber. The metal rail has a little adjustment room under the plastic and spotlight. If the end of the rail has peening from ball impacts it can affect the trajectory as well. Take a look there and then at the switch(a clean new coil sleeve helps too). My game sends it to the RH track almost every time and my machine is leveled at 7.5 deg.
Mine never seems to make the track. It’ll hit the left rubber post on the downhill ramp.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:Does someone know what the part number for the ramp post is? (with the black rubber on it in the pic)
[quoted image]
Go to IPDB download the manual, everything you need is in it
Quoted from ClassicHornet:Go to IPDB download the manual, everything you need is in it
That was so very helpful...
Hey Everyone! I just picked up a No Fear DS and I'm getting a "Right flipper E.O.S. Error Check F1". When I inspected the flipper it seems everything is connected properly. If I use a multimeter in diode BEEP mode I can manually close the right flipper EOS and the multimeter makes noise making me think this is a cable issue. Before I go trying to re-route a new cable run all the way from the fliptonic board down to this flipper does anyone have any suggestions on what I could look for? The other flippers work fine, its just the bottom right one. Would I be able to disconnect J906 from the fliptonic board and while the game is on- short the pins with a paperclip on the header pins themselves to check if the board works? For example, shorting J906-6 to J906-1?
(Yes, I know the left flipper is the wrong coil. It came that way, and I'm going to change it back to the correct, blue, coil later)
Thanks!
I’m not at my machine but have you checked the relevant connections and pins at driver board and flipper board? Solder, voltages etc?
Coil may be bad, shorted/broken wire.
Be curious to what you find, might have to dig up my wiring schematic and see what’s what.
Quoted from data_eastside:I'm thinking it must be missing part #01-12613 ?
This is missing on my game as well and I have the exact same problem. I purchased a replacement from Marco but I am unable to figure out how to mount it.
It looks different from the part which is seen in the No Fear restoration thread here on Pinside as that one looks taller and appears to fasten to the underside of the playfield.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-fear-shop-out-turned-pf-swap#post-5596240
The part I got from Marco is so short as to be expected to mount to the top of the playfield, except there are no holes predrilled, and if you orient it so the side facing the hole points down like it should, the mounting part sticks out into the orbit.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12613
Anyone have a good Pic? I know it's an impossible thing to try to see from either side of the playfield...
Thanks!
The manual has a unique parts page 2-27. It references the part below but no diagram.
“01-13825.1 Ball Deflect Plate”
I am assuming you’re talking about the plate that deflects the ball down to the subway from the skydive shot? That bracket does mount from the underside of the playfield with three screws.
Quoted from joeaf:The manual has a unique parts page 2-27. It references the part below but no diagram.
“01-13825.1 Ball Deflect Plate”
I am assuming you’re talking about the plate that deflects the ball down to the subway from the skydive shot? That bracket does mount from the underside of the playfield with three screws.
I believe you must be right, the manual must be wrong.
Here's what the manual says about that area of the playfield, but when I ordered that part it was wrong.
Only 2 holes in 01-12613 and even if I figured out how to fasten it to the bottom of my playfield sticking up through the hole, I don't think it is tall enough to do its job... At least not without scratching up the pinballs.
A web search for 01-13825.1 yields just about nothing... Anyone know someone who would stock something useful as a replacement?
Quoted from joeaf:The manual has a unique parts page 2-27. It references the part below but no diagram.
“01-13825.1 Ball Deflect Plate”
I am assuming you’re talking about the plate that deflects the ball down to the subway from the skydive shot? That bracket does mount from the underside of the playfield with three screws.
I experimented a bit this weekend with what I had on-hand. Learned a few things others struggling with this problem might appreciate.
I had the 01-12613 on hand so I test-fitted it by holding it underneath the playfield and discovered that the angle of that bracket would prevent the ball from fitting into the hole.
Put the bracket in a vise and used a universal pinball troubleshooting tool (mini sledgehammer) to bend the bracket such that the part the pinball would hit ends up perpendicular to the playfield.
Installed the bracket with one screw and play-tested.
100% of the shots bounced back, 0% dropped into the hole.
Thought I could tinker with the angle a bit, but given how little clearance there is between the bracket and the hole I decided to go a different direction.
I fashioned my own bracket out of corrugated cardboard. Added another universal troubleshooting aid (duct tape) to the bracket to strengthen the bent part and the area fastened by the screws.
Play-tested for the better part of an hour and 100% of the shots to the skydive fell into the hole, 0% bounced back.
I'll be interested to see how well this solution holds up. I anticipate I'll need to add a metal strip between the screw heads and the duct-tape-reinforced cardboard as I see that as a major wear point.
But for home use, I'm giving this a "plausible" rating as the correct part does not seem to be available.
Use thick cardboard, though. I cut mine from a Chewy shipping box. Those things are really sturdy.
Quoted from exnooyorka:I experimented a bit this weekend with what I had on-hand. Learned a few things others struggling with this problem might appreciate.
I had the 01-12613 on hand so I test-fitted it by holding it underneath the playfield and discovered that the angle of that bracket would prevent the ball from fitting into the hole.
Put the bracket in a vise and used a universal pinball troubleshooting tool (mini sledgehammer) to bend the bracket such that the part the pinball would hit ends up perpendicular to the playfield.
Installed the bracket with one screw and play-tested.
100% of the shots bounced back, 0% dropped into the hole.
Thought I could tinker with the angle a bit, but given how little clearance there is between the bracket and the hole I decided to go a different direction.
I fashioned my own bracket out of corrugated cardboard. Added another universal troubleshooting aid (duct tape) to the bracket to strengthen the bent part and the area fastened by the screws.
Play-tested for the better part of an hour and 100% of the shots to the skydive fell into the hole, 0% bounced back.
I'll be interested to see how well this solution holds up. I anticipate I'll need to add a metal strip between the screw heads and the duct-tape-reinforced cardboard as I see that as a major wear point.
But for home use, I'm giving this a "plausible" rating as the correct part does not seem to be available.
Use thick cardboard, though. I cut mine from a Chewy shipping box. Those things are really sturdy. [quoted image][quoted image]
Nice job getting it to work!! That's annoying that Marco sells the wrong part. I got lucky since I found the missing bracket in the bottom of the machine
Quoted from mollyspub:Wonder where you got that idea from…
[quoted image][quoted image]
YES! YES! YES!
Couple of questions about No Fear….
It seems to use the knocker less than most of my other Bally Williams, 90s machines. It goes off of course when you get a high score or grand champion but it doesn’t go off when you get an extra ball or a replay or special like most of my others. I didn’t see a setting in which to change that? Anyone have any ideas?
The sound is not super out of the stock speakers. It sounds kinda crackly and not crisp. Would Flipper Fidelity speakers change that or just amplify the poor quality? Is there another sound issue if I’m getting poor sound quality? I know it’s from the 90s… but something’s up with it.
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