(Topic ID: 250619)

No coin door test buttons work WPCS.. board or wire?

By topkat

4 years ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Tomass
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#1 4 years ago

The game plays perfectly, except for the test buttons , and the tilt.
I was able to get into test mode by jumpering the pins on the cpu so I know it’s not the cpu. I took some photos of the interface board diodes and there is a wire in the j5 connector bundle, but no place for it to have broken off..a ground somewhere ?
Will bring out the multi meter tomorrow.
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#2 4 years ago

Lots of bad on those connectors, you should repin the headers and connectors first.

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Lots of bad on those connectors, you should repin the headers and connectors first.

I will repin and replace the headers. Any idea about that green wire? The connector itself has all the wires listed intact

#4 4 years ago

I can probably figure it out.

Whar game is it?

What connector # is it, or at least what board does it plug into?

#5 4 years ago

No fear. J5
I don’t mind doing research If it’s needed I am just wondering is there a solid green wires that are ground that run with the rest of the connector bundle?’
I looked at my Dirty Harry and I don’t see that wire

#6 4 years ago

It’s the coin door interface board

#7 4 years ago

I fixed one that was doing the same thing. This one was all from a ground wire connection on that board. It was either the connector or the header. Reflowed the header and repinned the connector and it was fixed. Found it by wiggling the connector while pushing the test botton.

#8 4 years ago
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#9 4 years ago

I think it’s a ground issue, but the board needs new headers/connectors as well to be safe

That floating green wire must have broken off a ground location.
Now I have some places to to work from
Thanks

#10 4 years ago

Does that green wire go to the body of the tilt assembly?

#11 4 years ago

I check the tilt has two ground wires attached to it still.
My guess is it goes to leg bracket ?
It’s the closest connector to that bracket and Dirty Harry does have one there..

#12 4 years ago

I can double check later today. I have a No Fear at my house.

#13 4 years ago

Yeah, looks like you are correct. This one goes to the leg bracket.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Yeah, looks like you are correct. This one goes to the leg bracket.

Thanks. That’s at least part of my problem

#15 4 years ago

I attached the ground and it didn’t make difference. No test buttons work. I cleaned the headers, was hoping the ground would at least get it working and then I’d replace the pins. It’s either the board or possibly not getting voltage?

I have another in neighbor machine. Will try swapping boards. At least that will narrow it down somewhat I believe. Does that sound like a reasonable next step

#16 4 years ago

I tried reseating the j116 on the driver board and the test buttons worked briefly, then completely stopped again.
It seems to go in and out when I moved the coin door but now it’s completely out.
I put a new connector on for the power on the interface board and reseated the wires on board connector that supplies the power. J116
The start button flashes so the interface board must be getting power..

#17 4 years ago

Did you repin those connectors on that board by the coin door? That is where I would have started.

#18 4 years ago

I put anew idc on the connector that supples the power.
Strangely the one in the photo looks to have been replaced at some point since it was idc. And the dark stuff wasn’t burn marks but something sticky, maybe dark beer.
And I guess the start button lighting doesn’t mean anything bc there’s another power in for lamps.
I will repin manana
Ty

#19 4 years ago

Diode @ LR2, left side looks like it has a potential cold solder joint. Lightly pry up a bit under that leg and see if she moves. If so reflow it. I'd also recommend testing every diode on that board with a digital multi meter.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Diode @ LR2, left side looks like it has a potential cold solder joint. Lightly pry up a bit under that leg and see if she moves. If so reflow it. I'd also recommend testing every diode on that board with a digital multi meter.

I tested all the diode in diode test and they all tested the same.? I will just go with swapping a board and see if if that solves it. If not then has to be a wiring issue.. I would assume

Ty

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

I tested all the diode in diode test and they all tested the same.? I will just go with swapping a board and see if if that solves it. If not then has to be a wiring issue.. I would assume
Ty

I would start at the CPU connections foe the coin door functions. Corroded connectors are not obvious culprits.

#22 4 years ago

I swapped out my DH interface board to rule out boards and it didn't change anything.
Checked the voltage at J116 on the driver board and the pin says 14 V. I repined J116 on the driver to be safe. When I check the Voltage at the interface board (J2-2), the grey yellow wire, I get 5 V ? The grey/yellow wire loops through the connector and goes to the flipper optic board. It also only has 5 V at the connector and the schematics say 12. I compared to the Dirty harry and both of these spots show 13-14 volts on that machine. The flippers have always worked fine even with only getting 5V to the optic boar. Not sure if I am measuring wrong or somehow that wire is not carrying the 12V.. does it still point to connectors or could the voltage be the culprit.

Strangely on the dirty harry machine that same grey/yellow wire had a large portion of it replaced at some point, and it was spliced with the remaining grey/yellow at both ends.

#23 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

I swapped out my DH interface board to rule out boards and it didn't change anything.
Checked the voltage at J116 on the driver board and the pin says 14 V. I repined J116 on the driver to be safe. When I check the Voltage at the interface board (J2-2), the grey yellow wire, I get 5 V ? The grey/yellow wire loops through the connector and goes to the flipper optic board. It also only has 5 V at the connector and the schematics say 12. I compared to the Dirty harry and both of these spots show 13-14 volts on that machine. The flippers have always worked fine even with only getting 5V to the optic boar. Not sure if I am measuring wrong or somehow that wire is not carrying the 12V.. does it still point to connectors or could the voltage be the culprit.
Strangely on the dirty harry machine that same grey/yellow wire had a large portion of it replaced at some point, and it was spliced with the remaining grey/yellow at both ends.

Disconnect your flipper board connectors and measure voltages on the connectoe header pins. Try to rule out all your boards is what I am suggesting. You have resistance, just not sure where.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Disconnect your flipper board connectors and measure voltages on the connectoe header pins. Try to rule out all your boards is what I am suggesting. You have resistance, just not sure where.

Do you mean in the fliptronics board?
Or the flipper button optic board

I will continue repin the connectors for the coin interface board
And the header pins on coin interface ?

The drive board pins seem to ha w correct voltage at the pins. J116
Thanks

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from topkat:

Do you mean in the fliptronics board?
Or the flipper button optic board
I will continue repin the connectors for the coin interface board
And the header pins on coin interface ?
The drive board pins seem to ha w correct voltage at the pins. J116
Thanks

The cabinet flipper boards.

#26 4 years ago

Ok. Will check again
I’ve ruled out cpu by jumpering pins and getting into test mode
Ruled out coin interface bc swapped And still no change
I think ruled out Driver bc j116 pin 2 14 volts

#27 4 years ago

Got it fixed! Voltage isn’t what it supposed to be, or I am mis reading but I switched out connector j5 and it’s working. Ironically J5 was the one new connector I didn’t think it could be that one. All the brown on the connector was coke or a dark ipa.. it wiped off..
Made my day
Thanks for all the reply’s.

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#28 4 years ago

That's awesome! Glad you got it figured out!

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