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(Topic ID: 272477)

No Coils or Controlled Lights on The Shadow


By RCA1

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 85 days ago by ChrisHibler
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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Chip lifter (resized).png
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#1 3 months ago

Hadn't played my Shadow in a while, and when I turned it on it seemed to boot OK, but it's not working.

Here's what I have:
GI is on.
Will start a game (without kicking out a ball)
Flippers work.
Sound works.
Board indicator LEDs seem correct.
No coils, game or test
No flashers, game or test
No controlled lights, game, test, or attract.
I get a single "bong" during startup, but the mini-playfield paddle does not move.

Things I have treid:
Factory reset
Reseated ribbon cables and power connections to MPU and driver board
All fuses checked with meter
Driver board TPs with meter. 50V is more like 70, everything else really close.

What next? MPU or driver problem?

Any help appreciated. Maybe The Shadow knows........

#2 3 months ago

Does it think the coin door is open? Check in switch edge test.

1 week later
#3 3 months ago
Quoted from grumppy:

Does it think the coin door is open? Check in switch edge test.

Thanks. Checked the coin door switch, and it works correctly in test. If I have a game started and open the door, I get the high power disabled message. So pretty sure that's not the problem.

Anyone have other thoughts?

It was suggested trying another driver board in the Shadow thread.
My Dirty Harry came with a Rottendog replacement driver board in it. Is that compatable, and should I try swapping that over to The Shadow?

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Checked the coin door switch, and it works correctly in test. If I have a game started and open the door, I get the high power disabled message. So pretty sure that's not the problem.

The high power switch only cuts high power, it doesn't put the message up. The other switch, the memory protect switch puts the message up.

So your high power switch may not be working. Busted, wires off, wires not in the right spots.

LTG : )

#5 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

The high power switch only cuts high power, it doesn't put the message up. The other switch, the memory protect switch puts the message up.
So your high power switch may not be working. Busted, wires off, wires not in the right spots.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd!
I'll check that.

#6 3 months ago

Checked the high power cut out switch for continuity.
Works correctly both at the coin door, and getting continuity/not correctly back to the connector to the driver board at J102.
I'm learning stuff anyway, since I did not understand that the memory protect and high power switches were wired separately.

Any other ideas?
I may try swapping driver boards this weekend, if nothing else.

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Any other ideas?

Did you pull and check fuses with a meter ?

Do you have 50 volts ( could be higher not under load ) on the 50 volt test point on the driver board ?

LTG : )

#8 3 months ago

Yes, checked all the fuses by meter, out of the holders. Checked most again while checking the interlock switches.
I was really hoping it was just a fuse.
The 50V test point was reading about 70V. Not sure if that's too high or not. The other test points were pretty much right on.

#9 3 months ago
Quoted from RCA1:

The 50V test point was reading about 70V. Not sure if that's too high or not.

That is okay not under load.

LTG : )

#10 3 months ago

Try giving the square IC in the middle of the CPU board (U9 - the CPU ASIC) a firm push. You can pull and re-seat it if you have the appropriate tool.

#11 3 months ago

You've confirmed your driver board is making 50 volts. Now make sure that voltage is getting to the coils.

Balls removed, game in switch edges test, coin door closed, playfield raised all the way. Black lead on the ground braid in the cab, red lead to all the coil lugs other than flipper coils.

Lockbar and side rails are also grounds. Be very careful about not getting 50 volts where it shouldn't go.

#12 3 months ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Try giving the square IC in the middle of the CPU board (U9 - the CPU ASIC) a firm push. You can pull and re-seat it if you have the appropriate tool.

The asic chip is seated tightly. Didn't move at all when pushed.

Also have the same 70v at the coils as at the test point.

Checked a couple other things. Swapped out the MPU/driver ribbon cable. Checked continiuty on the Mpu/driver/power supply harness.

I'm now thinking it's an MPU problem and not a driver issue. I can swap drivers with Dirty Harry, but doubting that's worthwhile.
Can I swap MPUs without swapping chips, or is that a bad idea?
Any thoughts? Other things to test?

#13 3 months ago

Adding a couple pics as requested.

20200720_175200 (resized).jpg20200720_175204 (resized).jpg20200720_175223 (resized).jpg20200720_175227 (resized).jpg
#14 3 months ago

It sounds like the CPU-board. I would have started with a reseat of all the socketed IC-chips on the CPU board, including the ASIC (Use the special tool for it.). I never swapped CPU-boards without changing the game-ROM and the security chip, but it's only two chip to move. Get yourself a chip-lifting screwdriver, if you don't have one. Works very good, and is very handy when doing reseat on IC-chips.

Chip lifter (resized).png
#15 3 months ago

C2 has leaked.
It has corroded the parts to it's left, which are the zero cross circuit parts.
The top, very thin trace, just to the right of the fuse holder, is corroded too.
My guess is that there is additional corrosion, perhaps under U1, that is severing the communication to the satellite device buffers.
Better send it to a pro for corrosion abatement.
Removing the 74LS374s (like U1) is not trivial.

BTW, this has cropped up at least twice in the last two weeks. Interesting trend.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#16 3 months ago

Board will be visiting Mr. Hibler for repairs.
Thanks Chris!

"Who knows what evil lurks in the heart of my driver board?"
Chris Hibler knows!

1 week later
#17 86 days ago

Shadow is back up and running again!
Huge shout out to Chris Hibler for diagnosing the problem here, and for his board repair service.
Repair was done very quickly and professionally.
Thanks Chris!

Also, mini shout out to USPS delivery was really quick both ways.

#18 85 days ago

For a look at where the failure was...


--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

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