FunHouse
Williams, 1990Quoted from pinballinreno:I use these, I really like them.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/pop-bumper-discs
These may be the answer, hadnt seen them before, just the ones shown below that look too much like a UFO for funhouse...
Screenshot_20211213-055538_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg
Edit: just looked those up on comet (discs not rings), very cool that the brightness is adjustable. I will order a few, not sure if I will use 3 white ones or get a blue and red also...
Quoted from cosmokramer:These may be the answer, hadnt seen them before, just the ones shown below that look too much like a UFO for funhouse...
[quoted image]
Edit: just looked those up on comet (discs not rings), very cool that the brightness is adjustable. I will order a few, not sure if I will use 3 white ones or get a blue and red also...
I would add this to Funhouse, I think it looks good for carnival theme:
On my Comet I used some rings for the pop bumpers and disabled the upper lights. Resulted in lots of playfield light in the area while retaining the original look on the caps. Had to do some snipping, but there are better options now that I think you can just turn off one side.
Edit: I guess they would be still visible with the non opaque caps, so maybe not perfect.
Quoted from cosmokramer:I also need to order the flasher bulbs from comet... any suggestions?
I like the 5 led flasher towers for the 906's and the 8 led towers if you have any 89's
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers
Get a couple flex heads in single and double head.
You need a double flex head in the 12 oclock arrow.
Im using pretty much all sunlight 2smd color with a couple reds in the millions and extra ball insert.
Quoted from cosmokramer:These may be the answer, hadnt seen them before, just the ones shown below that look too much like a UFO for funhouse...
[quoted image]
Edit: just looked those up on comet (discs not rings), very cool that the brightness is adjustable. I will order a few, not sure if I will use 3 white ones or get a blue and red also...
The 7 led discs light on both sides to illuminate the pop bumper base.
They dont need to be in colors.
I don't like the ring ones. I agree they look off like a ufo.
I use these sockets:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8776-1
You can fit all the wires in since you can move it around a little.
I dont solder them, i just put a small molex on the wires.
I try not to solder anything any more.
I molex everthing!
Quoted from Davi:I would add this to Funhouse, I think it looks good for carnival theme:
Those look pretty cool
Quoted from pinballinreno:I like the 5 led flasher towers for the 906's and the 8 led towers if you have any 89's
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers
Get a couple flex heads in single and double head.
You need a double flex head in the 12 oclock arrow.
Im using pretty much all sunlight 2smd color with a couple reds in the millions and extra ball insert.
Thanks
Finished replacing the lamp sockets, got a pretty nasty solder splash burn on my leg in the process.
Moving on to placing the switch harness, replacing each switch and diode as I go.
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Again the plan here is slow and steady, one at a time.
I mark all the old switches with a dot of paint so I dont miss any...
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Changed out all the switches but one, need to wait for a new spinner switch and a bunch of diodes so I can finish up. Playfield is ready for the solenoid/flasher harness to be placed and soldered. After that I can begin to tidy up the harness bundle with a bunch of zip ties...
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Starting to look like something...
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I need to flatten out the decals for installation. First they are brought into the gameroom and laid out to begin to warm up. They are too curly to lay completely flat yet, so I will straighten out the middle of the large ones first, then turn them 90° to flatten out the edges...
I plan on screening the warning and putting the decals on the head later today...
20211215_075501 (resized).jpgI need to pull the final parts from the old head...
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The grounding plate is removed, then the board screws and standoffs are pulled and put in the tumbler along with the corner brackets and knocker plate.
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After removing the stickers and residual adhesive, the plate is washed and dried then put aside until the screws and standoffs are done.
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Vent has dirt, grime and overspray from a long ago repaint....
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Wet sanding makes quick work of it.
20211215_093745 (resized).jpg
Quoted from cosmokramer:Changed out all the switches but one, need to wait for a new spinner switch and a bunch of diodes so I can finish up. Playfield is ready for the solenoid/flasher harness to be placed and soldered. After that I can begin to tidy up the harness bundle with a bunch of zip ties...
[quoted image]
Starting to look like something...
[quoted image]
I molex everything in the game while its on the rotisserie.
3 pin and 2 pin .093 for thick wires and .062 2 pin, 3 pin and 2x4 connectrors for thin wire.
It takes a couple hours but its magical when troubleshooing down the road.
I dont molex micro switches unless they are buried or hard to solder "in-game".
Flipper mechs need continual maintenance, Its smart to do those.
Put a .092 3 pin standard molex on the coils wires and .062 2 pin standard molex on the EOS switch.
I usually molex and label everything during disassembly prior to restoration.
This makes it a bit easier to re-assemble and a bit quicker.
I have abut half of my Taxi molexed now just from cleaning and testing, Lol.
Soldering "in-game" is hard on my back and un-necessary in these modern times...
Quoted from pinballinreno:I molex everything in the game while its on the rotisserie.
+1 for connectors. I know HEP does it and I took a page from his book.
Here is a pic from the last restore I did, although it was only a Motordome, I installed connectors pretty much throughout the game.
a1d122e9bdc9746d4e96ae2b3055b99e8f48c2b4 (resized).jpgQuoted from Atari_Daze:+1 for connectors. I know HEP does it and I took a page from his book.
Here is a pic from the last restore I did, although it was only a Motordome, I installed connectors pretty much throughout the game.[quoted image]
Absolutely!
Anything thats a pain to access or remove should be able to be quickly removed as an assembly.
One can do much better work on the bench than in the game.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Here is a pic from the last restore I did, although it was only a Motordome, I installed connectors pretty much throughout the game.
Only a Motordome? Don't all pins deserve some love??? 
With the head guts processed I turn my attention to the screening...
I had my sons buddy who owns a print shop make my screens a few years back.
20211215_094153 (resized).jpg
This is the correct yellow color
20211215_095759 (resized).jpg
Placed
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Screened
20211215_101316 (resized).jpg
Quoted from pinballinreno:I molex everything in the game while its on the rotisserie.
I wondered why it'd be necessary to do this because most of these old games in private collections won't get played nearly as much as they did on route back in the day and just won't wear out like before. Chris (HEP) said something that made complete and total sense as to why he did this (among other reasons) and that was to prevent anyone from soldering inside the cabinet. With all the work put into making the cabinet perfect it'd be a shame to have a few drops of solder ruin all that work. For that reason alone I'm going to do the same on my next pin.
Perfect job on the screening. Love seeing this progress!
-Paul
HEPs thread is the best thread on pinside, hands down. Although I dont use connectors on everything as he does, I will be using them on the Rudy assembly and the flipper mechs.
Another thIng he does that I dont have the balls to try is sanding the decal edges. I use a straight edge and razor blade...
Decals test fitted
20211215_123746 (resized).jpg
Weights applied
20211215_125750 (resized).jpg
Installed
20211215_130137 (resized).jpg
Trimmed with razor
20211215_130650 (resized).jpg
Still a few small air bubbles that will go away in a day or so but looks good.
20211215_132118 (resized).jpg
I use the dry "hinge" method to install decals and have never had a problem
Another step when using these decals is to hit them with a heat gun after installation. It enhances the adhesive and you can actually see the decal "grab" the cab
You can see here where the decal is flat...
20211215_132514 (resized).jpg
And here, after heat is applied, you can see the decal puckered into the hole...
20211215_132501 (resized).jpg
Rinse and repeat other side...
20211215_134316 (resized).jpg
Quoted from cosmokramer:then turn them 90° to flatten out the edges...
The only reason I want to revisit this is to show that these decals can get a wrinkle in them from being stored rolled up.
20211215_135213 (resized).jpg
20211215_135223 (resized).jpg
No worries though, they will flatten out during installation. The head decals had similar wrinkles and they came right out. A little heat when applying will help but is seldom needed.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Another step when using these decals is to hit them with a heat gun after installation. It enhances the adhesive and you can actually see the decal "grab" the cab
You can see here where the decal is flat...
[quoted image]
And here, after heat is applied, you can see the decal puckered into the hole...
[quoted image]
Rinse and repeat other side...
[quoted image]
I may have asked before but, what brand of decals are those? Please comment on the quality.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Another thIng he does that I dont have the balls to try is sanding the decal edges.
It's so insanely simple and takes no time at all.
Once you try it, you'll kick yourself for not doing sooner.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Thought of that but I think I would end up with 3 hot spots, instead of illuminating the pops.</bloc
It's so insanely simple and takes no time at all.
Once you try it, you'll kick yourself for not doing sooner.
Link explaining this procedure? Something I want to try on my next restore as I'll be forced to use decals...
Quoted from monkfe:Link explaining this procedure? Something I want to try on my next restore as I'll be forced to use decals...
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:It's so insanely simple and takes no time at all.
Once you try it, you'll kick yourself for not doing sooner.
Probably, but I didnt think this would be a good cabinet to learn on. Touching up the latex blue was something I wanted to avoid.
I would be more comfortable learning on a black cab that I can touch up corners with a paint pen.
Quoted from mollyspub:I may have asked before but, what brand of decals are those? Please comment on the quality.
Ok, here's where some of you may disagree with me, but thats OK.
I prefer to use the decals from Europe (retro refurb or pinballdecals.eu). I have used them on several games. I have also used licensed next gen decals as well.
I prefer them because, IN MY PERSONAL OPINION, they are easier to install and more forgiving than the others. They seem to be a bit thicker and more durable and any wrinkles or bubbles are easily removed by applying heat. That being said some of the titles they offer have color/saturation issues but Im happy with the FH decals print quality. They are about $100 cheaper, but I have no problem spending the extra dough if I felt I was getting a better product from next gen.
Again, this is only MY opinion, I know others will strongly disagree. Also, some have a hang up about them because they are not licensed, in fact the Williams products are not even listed on the website, you have to just tell them what you want.
Some will say its wrong to buy non licensed products, but I dont give a shit.
Quoted from cireone:Looking absolutely fantastic! Great job!
Thanks, it should be ready for our January get together.
Quoted from sb33334:Looks great. I have been following closely. I probably will never do anything this extensive, but it is giving me more information on how to better maintain my FH. So thanks for that, as well as the entertainment.
Thank you.
Been busy the last few days at work but should have the cabinet done by this weekend. Still have not ordered the last few switches, pop light discs and a few other doo dads I need to compete the playfield, hopefully I can get it ordered later today.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Another step when using these decals is to hit them with a heat gun after installation. It enhances the adhesive and you can actually see the decal "grab" the cab
This sounds interesting. Is there a visible improvement after the heat gun process?
Quoted from Davi:This sounds interesting. Is there a visible improvement after the heat gun process?
Nothing visible other than what was shown in those photos. I was told a few years ago by Pete at retrorefurb that this was recommended. I think he posted a video years back but I dont think I can find it.
I believe it makes them stick better.
Wanted to put the legs on today but realized I forgot to order the metal standoffs to protect the new decals.
With the holidays it would be awhile before some arrived if I ordered them today so off to home depot...
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Cut to size, basic shape and hole locations.
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score and remove decal...
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Final product installed
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The transformer is installed, and I begin to loosely route the harness bundles.
20211223_145748 (resized).jpg
The left side harness gets split open to remove/replace the ground braid and also to remove the speaker wire for reconfiguration to the new speaker set up.
First I solder and crimp a new loop to make the ground connection in the head...
20211223_151309 (resized).jpg20211223_151519 (resized).jpg
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All this while watching Kevin McAllister beat up on a few burglars. Home Alone is at the top of my X-mas viewing list this year, knocking Die Hard and Jingle All The Way down to #2 and #3
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Preparing to install the carriage bolts for the corner braces. I dont want the bolts to spin and wrinkle the decals so I take and old bolt and with a plastic mallet I hit it into place. This creates a square for the shoulder of the bolt to fit into.
This step is not needed when re using an original cab.
20211224_124503 (resized).jpg
Results are a clean installation with no puckering.
20211224_125414 (resized).jpgI finish wiring the boards, then use my multi meter to confirm that I have a good ground everywhere. Everything checks out...
20211224_162252 (resized).jpg
Cross my fingers and power it up for the first time..
20211224_162216 (resized).jpg
Uh-oh, nothing but this one segment lit up?!?
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Wtf!
Double check connections and everything looks right
First thing I tried was to plug in the old display, then power it back up..
20211224_162025 (resized).jpg
Nice! looks like everything is booting and display is working... yay
I swap back to the pinscore and just get one lit segment... boo
I guess I have to look into it, not sure why it wouldnt work...
Any ideas? Thanks
Quoted from cosmokramer:I finish wiring the boards, then use my multi meter to confirm that I have a good ground everywhere. Everything checks out...
[quoted image]
Cross my fingers and power it up for the first time..
[quoted image]
Uh-oh, nothing but this one segment lit up?!?
[quoted image]
Wtf!
Double check connections and everything looks right
First thing I tried was to plug in the old display, then power it back up..
[quoted image]
Nice! looks like everything is booting and display is working... yay
I swap back to the pinscore and just get one lit segment... boo
I guess I have to look into it, not sure why it wouldnt work...
Any ideas? Thanks
Check your wiring.
Something is "off by a pin" or ribbon is backwards.
Or its not on the low voltage connector correctly.
Press the self test button to see the segments all light up (to check power) before hooking up the ribbon.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Check your wiring.
Something is "off by a pin" or ribbon is backwards.
Or its not on the low voltage connector correctly.
Press the self test button to see the segments all light up (to check power) before hooking up the ribbon.
Disconnected ribbon, then booted game. Pressed test button and got no results, just blank screen.
The green led on the pinscore does light up when 5v is connected.
Metered 4.89v at connector
Tried brightness all the way both directions
20211225_103203 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Disconnected ribbon, then booted game. Pressed test button and got no results, just blank screen.
The green led on the pinscore does light up when 5v is connected.
Metered 4.89v at connector
Tried brightness all the way both directions[quoted image]
Don't you want to use the good old plasma? It has a nice charm.
Quoted from Davi:Don't you want to use the good old plasma? It has a nice charm.
I may have to for awhile, I do like the look but I know the old display wont last forever.
I sent an Email to Ks arcade to see what to do next. They are out of stock at the moment and have been for awhile.
I would like to give a shout out to Ryan and the gang at comet pinball for outstanding service. I ordered some pop discs and flashers on Christmas day (Saturday) and got an email with tracking number stating that my package was on its way on Sunday morning.
Incredibly fast service.
I have a few more parts coming from Marcos to wrap up the playfield repopulating.
In the meantime I need to wire up the speaker components and finish up the cabinet assembly...
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Budapest
Cranford, NJ