FunHouse
Williams, 1990I was preparing to take down my spray booth but at the last minute remembered that I had not yet painted the apron.
Its a shame to sand this one down, its a very nice original screened apron but has just enough damage to make me want to freshen it up...
Screenshot_20211112-071917_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211112-072005_Gallery (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:I was preparing to take down my spray booth but at the last minute remembered that I had not yet painted the apron.
Its a shame to sand this one down, its a very nice original screened apron but has just enough damage to make me want to freshen it up...
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I had mine sandblasted and powdercoated, then added the decals.
I had touched it up previously, but wasnt happy with it.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I had mine sandblasted and powdercoated, then added the decals.
I had touched it up previously, but wasnt happy with it.
My plan is to prime, paint black (automotive paint this time), clear coat, decal, then clear coat again.
I considered touching up the original, but I think I would be disappointed in the results as well...
Quoted from cosmokramer:My plan is to prime, paint black (automotive paint this time), clear coat, decal, then clear coat again.
I considered touching up the original, but I think I would be disappointed in the results as well...
I have done that and it looks great HEP does that a lot.
But, I found that its way harder for fix damage if the decal is cleared over.
Automotive Urethane has about the same durability as powdercoat, so its a toss-up as to which is better.
I liked the 60% gloss powdercoat look, so I went with it.
Treasure Cove decals always.
Ugh, told the wife I would be taking down the booth after I finish the apron. She 'suggests' that since its up I should paint the double entry doors in the front, and four french doors in our bedroom.
The french doors are new so shouldn't be too bad, but the front doors are 30+ years old and need to be sanded, filled with bondo, sanded, primed and painted.
Im starting to wish I had taken it down a few days ago and powdered the apron instead...
Quoted from cosmokramer:Ugh, told the wife I would be taking down the booth after I finish the apron. She 'suggests' that since its up I should paint the double entry doors in the front, and four french doors in our bedroom.
The french doors are new so shouldn't be too bad, but the front doors are 30+ years old and need to be sanded, filled with bondo, sanded, primed and painted.
Im starting to wish I had taken it down a few days ago and powdered the apron instead...
lol
Quoted from cosmokramer:paint black
Screenshot_20211113-195711_Gallery (resized).jpgWasnt happy with the results of the black paint...sanded it off and re sprayed black, then cleared over that....
... still thought is looked like ass
Sanded that all off, re sprayed black (again), came out much better this time.
Not sure why I cant get it in gear when it comes to painting this time, but it looks like im back on track...
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Quoted from cosmokramer:Wasnt happy with the results of the black paint...sanded it off and re sprayed black, then cleared over that....
... still thought is looked like ass
Sanded that all off, re sprayed black (again), came out much better this time.
Not sure why I cant get it in gear when it comes to painting this time, but it looks like im back on track...
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Put 1 or 2 layers of masking tape on the ends of the wire ball guard before installing it.
I have scratched up fresh paint by skipping this step. Very annoying...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Put 1 or 2 layers of masking tape on the ends of the wire ball guard before installing it.
I have scratched up fresh paint by skipping this step. Very annoying...
Great tip, thanks
Quoted from RCA1:You just don't want to start on the doors.
First set of Reese rails I've used, I must say it was nice to not have to mill and finish my own this time. Quality of woodworking and staining are really top notch, I highly recommend these.
Went with red and now that I can pair the playfield and the rails together I think it looks great, with just enough pop.
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Heres the original black for comparison...
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Quoted from cosmokramer:First set of Reese rails I've used, I must say it was nice to not have to mill and finish my own this time. Quality of woodworking and staining are really top notch, I highly recommend these.
Went with red and now that I can pair the playfield and the rails together I think it looks great, with just enough pop.
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Heres the original black for comparison...
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Red rails are amazing!
Taylor has made up the absolute perfect color for FH.
First thing I did was wipe down and then wax the playfield. I bought the Ron Kruzman "playfield kit" a few years back and it has been a real asset when repopulating playfields with a new clear coat. It comes with some handy size/shape diamond bits for the dremmel, some adhesive to seal the exposed edges after removing the excess clear from the holes, and a few other helpful items.
If the clear is not removed from the hole it will crack and/or chip when the fastener is threaded in. Its a fairly easy process to quickly grind it out, then reseal the clear with the glue.
Removing the clear to install rails....
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Are you going to do the 2.0 version?
I just finished my resto and am going to pull it apart to do it.
I only put 20 games on my new game and am going for it!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Are you going to do the 2.0 version?
I was wondering this too. Being that this is a very detailed restoration considerations have to be made to accommodate the 2.0 upgrade.
BTW I can't wait to upgrade our Funhouse to 2.0 because it looks awesome!
-Paul
Funhouse 2.0....
I still a bit torn on this one. On one hand it really looks incredible and modernizes the game to somewhat compete with more current games.
On the other hand, for fucks sake I just spent $300 on a mirrored glass, $200 on pinscore, and a few hundred to get my boards serviced!
Plus at the moment I am still infatuated with the simplicity of Funhouse 1.0, and think that the so called "improvements" may change that a bit too much for my taste. Its the same reason I eventually decided to not go with the pinsound and shaker.
If anything it might be something I add later, and will proceed with this project as originally intended.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Shiny new parts always look good.
Started repopulating today...
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Im in on the kit but seriously doubt that the strange cartoon translite and weird artblades will make it into my game.
The pinscore is compatible with BOP and will be easy to sell off to the next guy as most of the pinscore stuff is out of stock.
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Initial top side assembly went well with no major hiccups, the only issue I have run into so far is that the new trap door assembly has the bolts slightly closer together.
20211126_170450 (resized).jpg This resulted in it not fitting in the original holes as they were about 1/8th" closer together than the original...
A little adjustment of the holes and were good to go...
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Quoted from cosmokramer:All new sling switches up next...
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Where did you get these already assembled?
Quoted from mollyspub:Where did you get these already assembled?
I believe from pinballlife but I can check my records to be sure.
Sling switches installed. Turns out one of the three needs the mounting bracket turned the other way. I checked the old set up for confirmation
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Installed...
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Quoted from cosmokramer:believe from pinballlife
Confirmed
Screenshot_20211128-055004_Samsung Internet (resized).jpgIm not good enough to just mount all the new sockets first, then attach lamp harness. In order for me to keep things straight I have to install the lamp harness first, then change out each socket individually. Im sure others do them all at once, saving a lot of time, but this is what works for me.
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New sockets with diodes installed, bulbs and fasteners.
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I had already mounted some of the mechs before the wiring gets too cluttered. I separated the 3 harnesses and plan to complete the lamp harness, then the switch harness.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Im not good enough to just mount all the new sockets first, then attach lamp harness. In order for me to keep things straight I have to install the lamp harness first, then change out each socket individually. Im sure others do them all at once, saving a lot of time, but this is what works for me.
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New sockets with diodes installed, bulbs and fasteners.
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I had already mounted some of the mechs before the wiring gets too cluttered. I separated the 3 harnesses and plan to complete the lamp harness, then the switch harness.
It might take a little longer, but not as long as goofing up and needing to backtrack to find the mistake. Steady and methodical patience wins!
Quoted from pinheadpierre:It might take a little longer, but not as long as goofing up and needing to backtrack to find the mistake. Steady and methodical patience wins!
+1
Well I made a mistake!
Should have just cleaned up the original apron as the damage to it was minimal. Instead I painted it and wanted to use a decal set to finish it. Im just not happy with the decal look vs the original screened.
Feelers out to see if I can source a good condition replacement, if not I will have to use what I have but I sure wish I would not have touched the original...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-funhouse-apron#post-6629710
Quoted from cosmokramer:Funhouse 2.0....
I still a bit torn on this one.
After revisiting this and watching the video again I am for sure not interested in putting this in my game.
The art is horrible
Rudys voice is bad.
The animations look ok but its not for me...
Quoted from cosmokramer:After revisiting this and watching the video again I am for sure not interested in putting this in my game.
The art is horrible
Rudys voice is bad.
The animations look ok but its not for me...
They should have just released a new game IMHO.
Quoted from cosmokramer:In order for me to keep things straight I have to install the lamp harness first, then change out each socket individually. Im sure others do them all at once, saving a lot of time, but this is what works for me.
This! (for all general restoration activity).
With all the new enthusiasts buying and "restoring" machines I have seen an increase number of "help wanted" threads where the poster says it worked before they "restored" their machine. It's not really a restoration if it doesn't work after someone "restored" it.
(Note the use of someone as the comments are not directed at the OP).
If someone does not know how the wiring works then replace or change things one wire at a time to reduce the chance for error. If someone insists on being efficient and doing more than one at a time then someone should either know what is going on or consult the manual to ensure that the wiring is correct. What?!?!? There's a manual?!?!?! What?!?!?! You mean I actually have to read something about how my machine works?!?!?!? 
Ok, maybe I jumped the gun a bit on the apron...
My wife looked at it and when I told her I was dissatisfied with the outcome she said I was nuts.
My issue seemed to be with the black on the decal and the black paint on the apron. It seemed a bit odd after looking at my original for so long. But she has a point, you can barely notice the difference and when its on the game under glass it will be even less noticable.
I know ultimately its up to me and what I want on my game but I thought I would post a pic for comment...
(Im not sure about the pricing and rule cards yet, right now they are just placeholders)
20211129_102802 (resized).jpgQuoted from DumbAss:If someone insists on being efficient and doing more than one at a time then someone should either know what is going on or consult the manual to ensure that the wiring is correct. What?!?!? There's a manual?!?!?! What?!?!?! You mean I actually have to read something about how my machine works?!?!?!?
I agree. I only do about 1 game every 2 years so by the time the next one comes along I've pretty much forgotten everything I picked up from the last restoration as far as the wiring matrix goes. As a result I prefer to do it safe and steady because it takes me a lot longer to troubleshoot or look in the manual
Quoted from cosmokramer:Ok, maybe I jumped the gun a bit on the apron...
My wife looked at it and when I told her I was dissatisfied with the outcome she said I was nuts.
My issue seemed to be with the black on the decal and the black paint on the apron. It seemed a bit odd after looking at my original for so long. But she has a point, you can barely notice the difference and when its on the game under glass it will be even less noticable.
I know ultimately its up to me and what I want on my game but I thought I would post a pic for comment...
(Im not sure about the pricing and rule cards yet, right now they are just placeholders)
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Looks good !
Quoted from cosmokramer:Ok, maybe I jumped the gun a bit on the apron...
My wife looked at it and when I told her I was dissatisfied with the outcome she said I was nuts.
My issue seemed to be with the black on the decal and the black paint on the apron. It seemed a bit odd after looking at my original for so long. But she has a point, you can barely notice the difference and when its on the game under glass it will be even less noticable.
I know ultimately its up to me and what I want on my game but I thought I would post a pic for comment...
(Im not sure about the pricing and rule cards yet, right now they are just placeholders)
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Reminder, women generally have better color recognition than men. I get my wife to look at all of my color matches. She is a lot better at it than me.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Ok, maybe I jumped the gun a bit on the apron...
My wife looked at it and when I told her I was dissatisfied with the outcome she said I was nuts.
My issue seemed to be with the black on the decal and the black paint on the apron. It seemed a bit odd after looking at my original for so long. But she has a point, you can barely notice the difference and when its on the game under glass it will be even less noticable.
I know ultimately its up to me and what I want on my game but I thought I would post a pic for comment...
(Im not sure about the pricing and rule cards yet, right now they are just placeholders)
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I think it looks good. Roll with it! The difference made by obtaining a new apron with good, unscathed art isn’t worth the time and expense imo.
First time using these lamp sockets for the pops. I didnt want to use the colored led rings that are available, I am looking for a slightly more original feel.
These socket use the pop mounting screws to stay in place, no more wobbly, crooked pop socket.
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New pop bodies (from Zitt) rings, bases and springs
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Quoted from dmacy:That looks sick!!!
I thought so too, until I found out that with these lamp sockets the bulb is quite a bit too high for the pop cap to fit...
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Of course I completely mounted and soldered all three before I discovered the issue.
Quoted from cosmokramer:I thought so too, until I found out that with these lamp sockets the bulb is quite a bit too high for the pop cap to fit...
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Of course I completely mounted and soldered all three before I discovered the issue.
I use these, I really like them.
Quoted from zerbam:what about a LED with a flat top or remove the cap from that one
Thought of that but I think I would end up with 3 hot spots, instead of illuminating the pops.
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St Joseph, MI
