FunHouse
Williams, 1990Quoted from High_End_Pins:They just throw things in a box with no inspection or care. If it’s in the bin it’s going in.
For a hobbyist like me its just irritating, if it were my career in would be infuriating... I can see where it would be a constant challenge to keep the amount of usable parts you need coming in ...
So, the rebuild kit came with both the conical springs that go over the plunger, and extension springs for the side.
Anybody know why it would come with both?
Quoted from cosmokramer:So, the rebuild kit came with both the conical springs that go over the plunger, and extension springs for the side.
Anybody know why it would come with both?
No idea. Technically if you are running the conical spring you should have the tapered plunger link.
If you are going the extension spring route then you would use the non tapered plunger link.
If your EOS bracket has the small holes drilled in it to accommodate the extension spring go that route.
The kit they sent you is a bit of a mess for the application. It can work but it’s wrong in some ways and correct in others.
Basically it looks like the correct coil stops,wrong plungers and links with multiple choice springs.
PBL is a better source IMO for these kits.
Well gang, Im about to embarrass myself quite a bit as I put out a safety tip for today. I took my eye off the ball today in my shop, a simple job of buffing a coil bracket could have cost me an eye.
I moved my buffer (its on a stand) from its normal position up against a wall in the shop a day or two ago to clean. I left it in the center of the shop, figuring I would tidy everything up later...today I was half watching TV and half paying attention to what I was doing (it was the scene in Deadpool 2 with Domino, she gets me every time). For some stupid reason I used my buffing wheel while standing on the back side of the machine, yes I even had to do a reach around to turn it on. Needless to say on that side the wheel is spinning up, not down. As soon as I touched the bracket to the wheel (and Domino was fighting Cable) the bracket flew up and bounced off my forehead just above my left eye.
Didnt take long for blood to run down my face, I'm sure it looked worse than it was at that point. Took me a few minutes to find the bracket, it still travelled about 12' after hitting me.
Sooooo, todays tip: When using any machinery, no matter how small or familiar you are with it...pay attention and dont do this
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What a jackass....
Quoted from cosmokramer:Well gang, Im about to embarrass myself quite a bit as I put out a safety tip for today. I took my eye off the ball today in my shop, a simple job of buffing a coil bracket could have cost me an eye.
I moved my buffer (its on a stand) from its normal position up against a wall in the shop a day or two ago to clean. I left it in the center of the shop, figuring I would tidy everything up later...today I was half watching TV and half paying attention to what I was doing (it was the scene in Deadpool 2 with Domino, she gets me every time). For some stupid reason I used my buffing wheel while standing on the back side of the machine, yes I even had to do a reach around to turn it on. Needless to say on that side the wheel is spinning up, not down. As soon as I touched the bracket to the wheel (and Domino was fighting Cable) the bracket flew up and bounced off my forehead just above my left eye.
Didnt take long for blood to run down my face, I'm sure it looked worse than it was at that point. Took me a few minutes to find the bracket, it still travelled about 12' after hitting me.
Sooooo, todays tip: When using any machinery, no matter how small or familiar you are with it...pay attention and dont do this
[quoted image]
What a jackass....
And wear safety glasses when using tools like that. Progress looking good!
Quoted from JayDee:And wear safety glasses when using tools like that. Progress looking good!
Yes, I know better...my shop teacher Mr. Luft would be so disappointed in me.
Its pretty embarrassing, I almost didn't post it at all, and I considered removing it about an hour after posting...
But there it is, please just pay attention to the task in front of you when working
download.jpeg-1 (resized).jpgMoving on...
I received the correct/missing flipper parts along with the yokes for the pops. This morning I was able to wrap up the last of the mechs with the exception of Rudy. I replaced all flipper bushings (not sure why the rebuild kit wouldnt contain these) and installed new flipper coils.
All mechs are bagged and stored for later...
Time to tackle Rudy...
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Along with a fresh paintjob, Rudy gets all new internal parts...
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One mounting tab is broken off the frame...
16274793723144117549699254051513 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Moving on...
I received the correct/missing flipper parts along with the yokes for the pops. This morning I was able to wrap up the last of the mechs with the exception of Rudy. I replaced all flipper bushings (not sure why the rebuild kit wouldnt contain these) and installed new flipper coils.
All mechs are bagged and stored for later...
Time to tackle Rudy...
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Along with a fresh paintjob, Rudy gets all new internal parts...
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One mounting tab is broken off the frame...
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Make sure you get new brass eyelet rivets for the centering rod.
Too bad about the frame. They can be impossible to find.
The broken tab can be spot welded back on and filed flush.
Wirefeed is perfect for this.
Spray the area with zinc paint.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BKIH7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_FE5JZXWNVF7N6G7A4AND
Quoted from pinballinreno:Make sure you get new brass eyelet rivets for the centering rod.
Got them, I was surprised at how much of the tube was worn away on the old one...
Quoted from pinballinreno:The broken tab can be spot welded back on and filed flush.
Wirefeed is perfect for this
Luckily my son is a welder, I was able to use his to tack this back together...
20210731_133019 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Luckily my son is a welder, I was able to use his to tack this back together...[quoted image]
Looks perfect!
Nice job on that.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Got them, I was surprised at how much of the tube was worn away on the old one...
[quoted image]
I added the crank liner to the back of the crank arm. Its supposed to help.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13416
The new crank arm has rivet/grommets, its a much better design.
I also used road show eyes that had the rivet/grommet reinforcements.
I also replaced the eye link wires.
I was worried that the originals wouldn't fit into the new setup that has the brass grommets.
It might be good to add grommets to existing eyes to compensate for wear it they don't have them already.
Im not sure on the grommet size though.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Got them, I was surprised at how much of the tube was worn away on the old one...
[quoted image]
On my spare head the eyelets were worn through into the frame and the spring wire was worn flattened.
Its completely rebuilt now, but it was a total mess.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I added the crank liner to the back of the crank arm. Its supposed to help.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-13416
The new crank arm has rivet/grommets, its a much better design.
I also used road show eyes that had the rivet/grommet reinforcements.
I also replaced the eye link wires.
I was worried that the originals wouldn't fit into the new setup that has the brass grommets.
It might be good to add grommets to existing eyes to compensate for wear it they don't have them already.
Im not sure on the grommet size though.
I will add the crank liner to parts order. I did pick up some grommets for the eyes, I will post the size later.
My centering flange was missing and the exploded view is a bit hard to see...does this look right?, its the only way that makes sense...
16277681010312152789735551395887 (resized).jpg162776811983438261704648720386 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:I will add the crank liner to parts order. I did pick up some grommets for the eyes, I will post the size later.
My centering flange was missing and the exploded view is a bit hard to see...does this look right?, its the only way that makes sense...[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes. The brass end goes thru it.
You have to assemble the whole linkage before the lower coil is installed.
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Quoted from cosmokramer:I will post the size later.
Great! My spare head doesnt have the eye grommets.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Great! My spare head doesnt have the eye grommets.
They were a bit too long to make it around the bend...
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Slid them onto a Q-tip...
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Took off about 30% of the lenth and it was able to make the turn.
Got them in the eyes, slightly less play than I had without them but now I know they wont wear any larger.
16277714108248817936196263158807 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:They were a bit too long to make it around the bend...
[quoted image]
Slid them onto a Q-tip...
[quoted image]
Took off about 30% of the lenth and it was able to make the turn.
Got them in the eyes, slightly less play than I had without them but now I know they wont wear any larger.
[quoted image]
Awesome!
What size rivets did you use?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Awesome!
What size rivets did you use?
Turns out the size was not on the bag...but I only needed 2 and had to order 100 so I will drop a dozen or so in the mail for you.
Unless you have moved in the last year, I still have your address.
Edit: found the original packaging...looks like I bought 200
1627774864623127523415712967878 (resized).jpgWaiting on a few springs for Rudy, other than that he's good to go.
Time to circle back to the lamp board...
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Ran the harness through the ultrasonic cleaner, then rinsed and blew dry with compressed air.
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I place the harness with the old sockets still attached and use it for orientation reference. Then replace each socket...
16277819149873759635323381828111 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Turns out the size was not on the bag...but I only needed 2 and had to order 100 so I will drop a dozen or so in the mail for you.
Unless you have moved in the last year, I still have your address.
Edit: found the original packaging...looks like I bought 200[quoted image]
Same address, Thanks!
Quoted from cosmokramer:Waiting on a few springs for Rudy
I bought new springs for the mini coils in Rudy's head from a couple places. Marco and PPS. They seemed identical.
They are stiffer than the originals.
I was worried that they would be too tight as I didnt know powerful the tiny coils were.
I didnt actually install the new tighter springs. Some people used them and had complaints about the eyelid spring not resetting correctly. The others probably dont matter.
I ended up cleaning and using the original coil springs.
But I did change out the red coils, mine were slightly swollen and had worn sleeves.
Probably would have been ok though.
Everything works perfectly.
For the rudy issue with the worn elongated eyelid holes I followed that instructions with good results: http://www.sandsmuseum.com/coinop/sample/funhouse/
Quoted from harig:For the rudy issue with the worn elongated eyelid holes I followed that instructions with good results: http://www.sandsmuseum.com/coinop/sample/funhouse/
Good info there, thanks!
It feels good finally completing some of the major work, but there is still a lot to do...
Time to get back to the cabinet/head. This was built a few months ago and has just sat in my way...
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The head is about 75% done, with some drilling left to do...
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A template and a drill block make short work of the bottom...
16278661665192183056248623448277 (resized).jpgTook the new backglass out of the box and put on the lift channel and trim. Measured the glass size and repackaged glass for safe keeping. I just wanted to make sure it was exactly the same size, didnt want any surprises when it was time to put it in. I confirmed that it was indeed identical to the CFTBL translite I have on display in my shop. I can use the translite now to check the fit of the head with the speaker panel and channels...
Everything looks good and I can comfortably move forward...
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I did this earlier when I first built the cabinet, but I didnt have the exact glass size to confirm fitment.
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Top, back and sides get drilled.
awesome work my friend! with the PF on the way, this bad boy is so close to play time, I cant wait to see it!
that PF looks impeccable btw. good choice!
Quoted from cosmokramer:Took the new backglass out of the box and put on the lift channel and trim. Measured the glass size and repackaged glass for safe keeping. I just wanted to make sure it was exactly the same size, didnt want any surprises when it was time to put it in. I confirmed that it was indeed identical to the CFTBL translite I have on display in my shop. I can use the translite now to check the fit of the head with the speaker panel and channels...
Everything looks good and I can comfortably move forward...
[quoted image]
I did this earlier when I first built the cabinet, but I didnt have the exact glass size to confirm fitment.
[quoted image]
Top, back and sides get drilled.
You do such beautiful cabinet work.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You do such beautiful cabinet work.
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:awesome work my friend!
Thank you for the kind words guys, I appreciate it.
Last step is test fitting the newly completed insert panel. Needs just a bit of adjustment to square it up, after that the head is ready for paint prep ...
Time to finish the lower cab. It still needs speaker hole cut. I wasn't sure which way I was going to go with this, but have decided on the stock 6" size instead of going to an 8".
Need to install all the corner bracing and heavy duty leg brackets, drill for playfield pivot bolts, flipper buttons etc...
16279256364739036850581953080841 (resized).jpgdownload.jpeg-8 (resized).jpg
Some stuff arrived today from Marco and Pinballlife. Just ordered this stuff on Sunday and I already have 3 items on a new "stuff to order" list...
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Drilled the power switch hole and placed the wood block, thats the last hole I had to drill in the cabinet. New cabs are a lot of work, there are 78 openings to either drill or use a router between the head and the lower cab.
Thats a lot
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Done for now until I start filling and sanding...16282049900505244922128394425679 (resized).jpg
Putting that aside for now and moving on.
Thought I would ask for a few opinions here regarding the cab bottom. On the last few restorations I have done I decided to paint the bottom. On this one I am considering leaving it raw, more like the original.
Thoughts?
Quoted from cosmokramer:Thought I would ask for a few opinions here regarding the cab bottom. On the last few restorations I have done I decided to paint the bottom. On this one I am considering leaving it raw, more like the original.
Thoughts?
Painting MDF is tough. The paint tends to scratch easily and looks odd.
Leave it bare. Just keep it covered with a towel when assembling and vacuum it periodically.
Any areas I have screwed up, I have had good success with light sanding and rubbing lightly with a tack rag to sorta restore the wax/resin surface. Not too much as everything darkens it.
If you are worried about the bottom, just avoid touching it or wear gloves.
I havent tried it but I have heard that people use a spray fixative like they use on charcoal drawings to help with fingerprints.
Its a combiation of clear resin and alcohol that dries super fast and wont raise the grain.
Get a can and do some tests.
This is supposed to have the best protection and least color change:
Quoted from cosmokramer:Waiting on a few springs for Rudy
So the springs, crank arm and crank liner needed to be installed as well as a new microswitch. As I was working on Rudy something did not seem right. Upon further inspection I noticed that I had swapped the eyes open coil with the eyes left. Glad I spotted that now or Rudy would have appeared under the influence.
All fixed now, all rudy functions feel smooth and tight as I operate them by hand. I can't wait for him to be heckling me again...
Quoted from cosmokramer:So the springs, crank arm and crank liner needed to be installed as well as a new microswitch. As I was working on Rudy something did not seem right. Upon further inspection I noticed that I had swapped the eyes open coil with the eyes left. Glad I spotted that now or Rudy would have appeared under the influence.
All fixed now, all rudy functions feel smooth and tight as I operate them by hand. I can't wait for him to be heckling me again...
[quoted image]
I got the grommets yesterday.
Thank you so much!
Now I can fix my old set of rudy eyes.
Nice choice on adding the crank liner. On my game it made the action a little snappier.
Quoted from cosmokramer:[quoted image]
Just a little one today...
[quoted image]
Thanks Zitt
I had the same idea!
But i opted for translucent/frosted bodies and opaque colored skirts.
I still used tbe 7 led cool white discs from comet to get the above and below lighting.
Im interested in how this looks!
Time to take a look at the ramps...first up is the main ramp. At first glance it doesnt look too bad...
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But upon further inspection...16283787918185292841765218731037 (resized).jpg
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There looks to be some additional protection that is not stock. Looks like someone installed cliffys on both ramps...1628378903051813365753514407901 (resized).jpg
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Those will be cleaned and transferred to new ramps...
Heres the replacement from Starship...Larry makes a great product. I used them in TOM and they fit perfect. Im hoping for the same here.
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They come with the flap, switch bracket and diverter plate already riveted on...
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Quoted from cosmokramer:Are these stock? They seem long...
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Lol..
No, I had the same crap on my restoration.
I did however install a complete cliffys set, including the ramp/diverter protection.
Marco has the proper pan head screws in #6 and #8 sizes.
I bought 50 of each and used a lot of them.
Plus a ton of rivets on this game, lol.
If you use reese rails, you have to drill the holes for the plastics a bit bigger or the screws will bind up in the oak.
Maybe use bar soap or wax on the screws.
When installing ramp screws dont over tighten them. It will make spider halos or stars under the screws.
Just tighen until fixed in place, no more.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Thought I would ask for a few opinions here regarding the cab bottom. On the last few restorations I have done I decided to paint the bottom. On this one I am considering leaving it raw, more like the original.
Thoughts?
How's about leaving it bare, but cover it with frisket to keep it protected. Kind of like leaving the thin protective plastic on a new appliance. It'll keep it clean, and minty fresh. You could always peel it off later.
(following this thread closely for when we restore ours)
-Paul
Quoted from pinballinreno:No, I had the same crap on my restoration
I figured that wasnt quite right...added parts onto the order list
Im starting to put a few items off the the side as I work through these. The pieces collected are some of the pieces the require riveting...Funhouse has a lot of rivets!
I met someone local awhile back that has a rivet press, all the supplies, and most importantly, experience!
He was kind enough to offer to take care of the riveting for me.
16284447959895988981241393152408 (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:I figured that wasnt quite right...added parts onto the order list
Im starting to put a few items off the the side as I work through these. The pieces collected are some of the pieces the require riveting...Funhouse has a lot of rivets!
I met someone local awhile back that has a rivet press, all the supplies, and most importantly, experience!
He was kind enough to offer to take care of the riveting for me.[quoted image]
Yep, lots of rivets on Funhouse.
I ended up using all 3 of my rivet tools.
I have an easy way to remove rivets that I have developed.
Its hard to explain, Ill have to make a video for it.
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Matthews, NC
Wiener Neustadt