Quoted from AnnetteM:

Having the same issue with no 20V on our Getaway HS2 (no flashers working). There's 19 vac at J102 pin 1 to 3 or 4 and pin 2 to 3 or 4 at the connector so those all look good. They are clean and tight. F111 ohms to 0. LED5 will usually start out dim and then gets brighter whether 106 and 107 is hooked up or not. TP7, the 20V test point usually starts around 4 vdc to ground then you can sit and watch it start rising as BR4 starts warming up. Pushing around on stuff trying to find cold joints has been futile although the voltage seems to come up faster when rubbing around on BR4. So I'm assuming at this point it's BR4 or the Capacitor C11. Is it better to go through the trouble of pulling the board and replacing those components and checking for any other cold and/or dry joints, etc. or just buy a power board like the Rottendog one that's $299? We don't really have anyone local here to do board repairs and I can do some stuff pretty well but definitely not an electronic tech. On MarcoSpecialties.com they have a rebuild kit that's 5 bridge rectifiers, 5 15000 ufd capacitors and a smaller capacitor for 50 bucks. What's your opinion on moving forward on getting my flashers working on my hs2?
Thank you all for the insights and help on this...