I installed my expressive speaker lighting into Foo Fighters and it's amazing! Only going to get better as Stern continues to code new light shows.

One note for those planning to do the same - the instructions suggest pointing installing the lights with wires pointing up. This won't work for Foo. The long orange wire isn't long enough to make it all the way down to the Expression lighting board. I even re-attached the added board as far back on the cabinet as I could, and there's still a lot of tension on that long orange wire when you open the speaker panel.

I think this product is exceptional, makes a big big difference in the immersion and is a very easy mod to install. Highly recommended!

this is probably why the orange wire snapped on My Rush.

Thanks for letting me know... I wonder if our wire templates got messed up somehow. I'll give it a look and make corrections. I'm so sorry you both have had trouble with that. If you need extra length, that's just a data wire and you can splice in just about anything to extend it.

I spliced in another foot of wire to give it some slack.works great no big deal.

Mine hasn't snapped yet, it probably will the next time I pull down my speaker panel without paying attention. No big deal to splice it in if/when that happens.

OutpostKodelia my suggestion (along with double checking the length) is to consider how people will close up that speaker panel, which creates a lot of slack, and then connect the long orange and screw it into the cabinet. If that line is tightish, the first time they open the speaker panel up, it'll snap. It'd be super awkward and really tough to do it with the panel down though...kind of in a tough spot.

When I broke down my RUSH a few weeks ago and folded the head I had similar issues with the orange wire. We caught it just in time and where able to make it workable, however it was still tight and could have used some slack on that wire.

Is there any updated on the Foo Fighters LE compatibility?
I'd love to get one of these kits but I'm assuming it's still not safe to order.

If you're referring to our expressive light kits, then yes, they are absolutely Foo compatible.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ninjacamp-mods/page/21#post-7541620

Awesome. So would that be the Speaker Lights- Low Prof - w/ Interface Board for the FF LE?

That's the right kit, but the low profile is going to depend on the speakers you have or intend to have. If you're not certain which way to go, let me know your speaker situation and I'll point you to the right option.

I have the LE and I'm keeping the LE Standard Kenwood speakers.

Okay, then you just want the 'normal' rings.

Okay what am I missing here I'm trying to install the speaker light kits on my rush ... I have a pinwoofer installed.
Help

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As stated in the instructions: "For non-factory speakers, remove any rings or spacers that were provided."

So you'll need to remove the black 3D printed spacers that are shown in your photo. The white NinjaCamp speaker light ring will have the black side facing downward directly onto the steel speaker plate. Like this:
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I believe there's a photo in the instructions that reflects this orientation as well as the reminder to keep the R and L on the correct side.

I'm using the "Low Profile Rotated" rings with my PinWoofer speakers so that I don't have to cut the posts down.

I talked to ninja And I said because I have a pro It's got 4 in spacers so I've got to order some five and a quarters

But that's okay I went ahead and put on the back box and the cabinet lights and all my expression lights and it's awesome!

Excellent! I'm looking forward to finishing the install on mine. I'm missing some screws to attach the speakers to these rotated rings but I should be able to get what I need when the hardware opens tomorrow.

Looking forward to it!

Back box and cabinet lights are awesome...
And I don't have to tell you how awesome the expression lights are but I got all that installed today Just waiting on my speaker spacer to do the speakers... Just awesome!!

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Looks great! Mine are going into a Foo Fighters LE so I'm stoked. Like you, I went with the all-in-one. I have flame backbox and undercab lights on my Godzilla and love them, so having them integrated with the FF expression light show should be super fun.

Now we just need Ninjacamp to come out with a light kit for the topper.

In process! Agree. If he can pull it off, I'm sure it will be next level. Left and right and maybe split them off the Backbox strip (if you have it) with a y connector so you don't have to go back to power. Probably not any more trial LEDs with the Backbox and topper combined than the cabinet lights run from as power draw perspective.

.
Thinking maybe two small strips on each side. 4 total
One in the cavity area between the back and gears and another in front of the albums.

Yep, it's a work in progress. It'll work a little differently than our other light kits, but will be a similar premise. Cramming another 96 LEDs up there would be a lot of overkill, so I'm working on a way to pare that down a bit and still make things fit and sync nicely. There will be a new interface board down near the Node 2 again, but it will connect differently. From what I can tell, I can't really leverage the lighting in the topper itself since the topper's node board doesn't seem to work quite the same. But I have some stuff on order to build the prototype and I'm still developing the mounting hardware. But I hope to have a prototype or two out to folks for testing within a couple weeks.

Install was pretty easy, with pinwoofers. No fitment issues at all, as I knew there wouldn't be. Now stern needs a code update

Do you have video of yours installed with the pinwoofer speakers? I want to do that but wonder what the speaker lights look like in action with the black pinwoofer speakers as opposed to the white Kenwoods that come with the LEs. Thanks!

Here you go, it looks great with the Pinwoofer speakers. The cones and tweeter are black but the cones have some shiny grid texture so they seem to reflect light quite well. Hayfarmer video above is with Pinwoofers also.

Looks great indeed!! Thank you!

Hey RoadQueen ! You'll also get superior sound quality with our speaker.

Here is a past post from Desmodromic showing what he did with his Bond:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/foo-fighters-official-owners-club-rock-aliens/page/49#post-7565247

Good times!

Yes, already have Pinwoofer on my GZ and GNR and love it! Still waiting on my FF before I order another one. Thanks for the link.

Lots of PinWoofer customer posts here. Love the light shows, but these vids capture some great audio - super uplifting to watch and listen!

Hey anyone that has installed expressive speaker lights on the Pro, is the general consensus for aesthetics to remove the piece of foam so you can see the lights and the speaker better?
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I would probably remove the foam. I used it on my GZ with the flame speaker lights as it helps to diffuse the LEDs and the flames look "smoother" with it in place, but the Expressive lights often times have multiple colors lit at the same time and it's part of the look. Also, the clear material that they use to 3D print the speaker light rings does a good job of diffusing already.

Thanks I'm going to remove it.
Now I run into a different issue where are the upright posts from my speaker adapter barely clear the low profile expressive lights And I'm not sure how to secure the pinwoofer speaker to it?

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You ordered the low profile rings. You need to cut 1/2" off the posts. The post will secure only the bottom tab. The included screws will mount the speaker to the top tab. Some people have a tough time getting the included screws to work, in which case, switch them out for #8x1/2" screws. This photo shows you what I'm talking about.
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Ok thanks.
Meanwhile I've cut the posts and the panhead screws are too short as you indicated. I've moved to plan B. Zip ties!!
I actually think this might be the best and simplest solution.

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There's a Low Profile Rotated option that allows you keep the posts as-is, which is the way I went as I didn't want to cut down the posts on my LE. The sheet metal screws didn't work to attach the speakers so as OutpostKodelia notes, I sourced some screws and nylock nuts locally to mount the speaker to the Expressive light ring. I ended up designing and printing some little (white in the picture) overtravel spacers and putting them in between so I could tighten them down without overstressing the tab on the Expressive ring or the speaker flange. This solution worked very well.
IMG_2927 (resized).JPG

Yeah that's a good idea. I may have done that except I have a pro and I had to order the 5.25 in adapters from pinball Life anyway to make this work. I've got the original plates which I'll never need actually cuz it's bolted lol. If I did I resell it it would all go together. And of course I waited long enough for these guys to get in here and they're going in TODAY!

But here's the final solution with bolts cut and the zip ties. I doubled up zip ties because there's enough room for it.
Off to do the right speaker... This one's going to go a lot faster since I've made it through all the obstacles.

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It might not make much of a difference aside from the direction of the light animations, but I believe the instructions say to flip the light ring so that the black layer faces downward, on the speaker plate side. My bad, correct orientation is with black face toward the speaker.

I read that part about three times... It says the side of the expressive light ring that is black and shows the letter will face up and away from the middle grill plate. We recommend installing the ring with the wires at the top this will make the bottom of the ring act as center of the light so they wrap up around each side of the ring.

I put the black side up which is how I read the instructions And I didn't think much about the orientation because it said the wires were supposed to go at the top which is what I did... We shall see shortly!! Thanks for calling that out. Hopefully I'm understanding that as I really don't want to undo them!!

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Ok so from the top mounting the left where the power wires are, isn't long enough to reach the power... And I've got power just lying in the back box channel in the middle for now...
Now what am I doing wrong?

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Yeah, interesting! Maybe I've got mine backward. Not sure if I had older instructions or if I just somehow flipped it. Will have to get in there and take a look.

The instruction screenshot you shared says that you can also mount the rings with the wires turned to the LCD screen side rather than the top. I ended up fiddling around with mine and got them to work with the wires at the top but it sounds like a few others have run into this as well. I'll probably spin mine around to the inside just to ensure that there's enough slack as I don't want to deal with splicing into the harness.

I had to rotate my ninja rings to about a 1:00 position to reach. I did install with the l and r facing up

Okay, so you have a kit from before I realized this was a problem. There are two ways you can address this. 1) Rotate the speaker rings so the wire bundle points to the middle (I actually prefer this orientation these days and use it this way in my own games, that's actually why I didn't realize they were too short at first), or 2) you can splice in a little extra wire on those red/black power lines. Also, make sure the power supply is slid as far to the left as you can get it... you should be able to get it to line up with the edge of the left hole into the lower cab, fully under the wire guide loop. This helps with the length situation as well.

Yes, this is correct. Black side faces the speaker. The very first version of the instructions (for just the light rings, way back before the all-in-one kits) had this backwards but it was corrected within a couple days.

Thank you! I'm going to rotate the light rings anyway so I'll flip while I'm in there. Earlier post edited to avoid confusion.

I’ve got my standard rings, wires facing towards the LCD screen. Just be careful mounting, and watch those wires on the rings, it’s a tight fit but works.

Didn’t have any issue with wire length, just wanted it set slightly different than others, at the beginning of all these NC light kits extravaganza

I got your Scooby mods some time ago. Finally got my game yesterday. When adding the mods I have 2 questions.

Airfield sign - screw is not long enough to reach the nut through the sign - do you know what size the screw is so I can get a longer one?

Gate - how does this install? I can feel screws on the back side of the rock formation on the upper PF so I am assuming they are what need to be removed to change out the gate. Do I need to take off the entire front rock formation to do this?

Please advise

Thanks

Instructions for the gate install can be found here: http://mjf.me/Pinball/Scooby%20Doo%20Spider%20Gate%20Installation.pdf

As to the airfield sign, I wonder if they've started using a shorter screw... You're the first person to report that not being long enough. I'm not sure of the size at the moment, but I can look into it this evening. Alternatively, you can take that existing screw into a Home Depot or Ace Hardware and use their testers to figure it out and get a slightly longer one. If I had to guess, it's a #8-32 screw, but I won't know for sure until I dismantle it and pull it out for verification.

Thanks.

Just didn't know if HD/Lowes would have a screw this small. Not sure if mine is smaller than normal or not but when installing on the plastic it definitely won't reach the nut. Should be an easy fix with a longer screw though.

SUCCESS!
Thanks to everyone here who helped make this possible!

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Can I purchase mods anywhere other than the pinside shop? Pinside doesn't allow PayPal and I'd like to use that.

Just contact the sellers in their store directly by PM, they will advise you.
I have had most accommodate that. It's pinside limitation, not a seller limitation.