PinWoofer and NinjaCamp are amazing! I already own the PinWoofer setup (Pyle version) and just ordered the low-profile kit from the Ninja. I’m more excited about this combo than the topper. Well done guys!! I’ll upload some photo’s once Aniraf/Ninja catches-up. Your hard work is greatly appreciated.

Yep, I had to take them out to use the translucent acrylic spacers. But when you do that you also have to modify the screw slots that connect the screen or they'll block the screw holes on the screen, which I had to do and wasn't fun. So yeah, it's all tradeoffs, but the low profile reduce that a bit at least.

I haven't seen them running side by side, but when I look at videos, I can't tell any difference. It's the same number of lights, but the normal has the two rings side by side, where the low profile stacks and overlaps them slightly (but not enough to block the LEDs). The main difference is the tradeoff between a no-modification installation (normal rings) and extra mounting depth but you have to cut screws (low profile).

I was looking to see if there might be a "no mod" way for the low pro rings. One thing I found that might be an option are these:
https://www.fastenright.com/products/general-fixings/sex-bolts-barrel-nuts
Just need to find the right size and then see if they would fit through the speaker and lamp ring tabs.

The easiest thing to do would be to rotate the speaker mounting tabs 15 to 45 degrees so they aren't on top of the tabs that mount to the panel... it would take but a moment to make that change to the model. But then the tweeters would be rotated with diagonal text on them and that felt like something no one would want. Next to that, I considered coupler nuts to union the screw post with a mounting screw, but I worry those could work loose over time. These sexed barrel nuts could work if they were skinny enough to get through the speaker tabs, but I suspect they won't, but again I'll know more when my PWs get here today.

My think they are there on the Pro / Premium games to allow for a little bit of space, so the speaker foam is not squashed into the back of the honeycomb grill when the speaker plates are put down. I'm guessing they then just "let it ride" with the LE games and designed both the 4" and 5'25" speaker plates to use them and have their "LCD screen side holes" lined up with the clear spacers used.

Okay, our PinWoofers arrived and two things occur to me.

1) They are right around 2 1/8" deep, so they should work okay with the normal rings unless you want to add the translucent metallic surrounds from SpeakerLightKits. If you want to use those surrounds, you can still make it work by removing the acrylic spacers mentioned above.

2) If you want the room to breathe and not worry about it, you can go with the low profile speaker rings. To that end, I noticed that the new PW speakers have no branding or text on the tweeter. I could totally rotate the tabs off axis from each other, which would rotate the speaker itself slightly, and it would still look just as good. Now that's not going to be the case with other aftermarket speakers, but PW seems to have the market cornered aside from the DIY crowd, so maybe I just pull the trigger on this change. That would eliminate the need to cut the screws down.

Thoughts? Should I change the low profile kit to be slightly rotated so it's modification-free? Should I have two versions of the low profile, one rotated and one not rotated for those who will have branded tweeters in their speakers? Open to feedback!

I’d say offer both, as doing only one of the two, could possibly negate the other half.

“Half of us divided
Like a torn-up photograph
Half of us are trying
To reach the other half”

This is the inclusive answer. But it's not half. (I do appreciate the rush reference tho )
I will be conservative and say it's more like 80/20 and really feel like it's more like 90/10...

I am in the majority who have pw and don't care if the low profile are slightly rotated in order to be mod free so I'd choose that.
Ninja camp can decide if they want to support the minority or not, I've got no dog in the hunt.

Maybe offer what will be the majority of the purchases of the slim models as ready to go (assuming you're caught up) but any of the other type of slims would be "build on purchase". Then at least you wouldn't have excess inventory hanging about.

Working on getting the instructions for our Scooby Doo mods posted to the instructions site but, for now, email [email protected] if you need them and I'll send them right to you.

Kaydee

I’d take any option and make it work. I have the Pyle speakers (Pinwoofer) so rotating them is not ideal. Cutting the screws seams easy enough for me. Maybe include new screws for others?

Everybody sitting down? Can confirm... Expressive Light Kits are compatible with Foo! Aaaaaand go!

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Can't wait for the full kit!!

I have been looking for a table like this for a while. Anyone know where to buy one? Ninja! mod me a table my man! I want mine to have the Ninja logo on top (or Stern, whatever).

IMG_0069 (resized).jpeg

I'm heading back there today. I'll ask for you.

Turns out these were made by a local welder, sorry!

Not exactly the same but Sierra who did a lot of the work to make the awesome epoxy tables at Portal Pinball has a company that sells something similar:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1435-cosmic-craft-company/07210-pin-between-tables

Awesome! Thank you very much!!

For those of you with all-in-one kits on the way, I'm working on getting the instructions added to our instruction site. In the meantime, if you need them sooner than that or want to begin reviewing them early, just ping me at [email protected] and I'll email them to you. Enjoy your kits!

And they're up! That link once again: http://mjf.me/pinball/Instructions.html

Got em installed too!
Here's a video.

Ninjacamp - I have a set of your interactive light kits for my rush LE and LOVE THEM!!!

I just purchased a Foo Fighter premium and plan to install the expressive light kit once available. If I buy your interactive speaker light kit for that machine now would I be able to use standard non interactive lighting for now until they sell the expressive kit?

Thanks

First off, thank you for the great feedback! Much appreciated, and I'm thrilled you're enjoying them! As to your question, if I understand you correctly, the answer is unfortunately no. Our kits don't have any internal light routines to fall back on if they're not receiving data from the game. You could install them but they won't do a thing until you get the Node 2 board that goes with Stern's Expression Lights. Now, if you're the programmer type, you could install our kit, but hook the orange wire up to a data pin on an Arduino, load in the NeoPixel library, and set up a show of your own. You would have to get the proper voltage to the Arduino so it can operate, but the lights would be powered by their own power system.

Appreciate the quick response and help with the question!!

I was just thinking the same thing. I've been playing around with Raspberry Pi Picos recently and wonder what it would take to have something controlled by one of those.

As long as there's a NeoPixel library available so you don't have to handle the low level stuff yourself, and the GPIO (or similar) has a digital data out pin, then the rest is all down to how clever you want to be at programming shows for 96 lights, though you may be able to find some open source/free show creators to help with that.

I'd probably go lazy and just do some sort of VU meter type thing with a small mic for input reference, or some sort of randomization. Maybe I'll play around with it after I finally order my 3-part set for Rush.

While waiting on my Rush Topper, it occurs to me that I'll need another 48v splitter for it when it arrives.
But first, any thoughts on daisy chaining multiple splitters? When finished, I will have Ninja Speaker Expressive lights, Ninja Undercab Expresssive lights, and the Topper all daisy-chained to the 48v outlet on the board.

I fully understand that you can take no responsibility, but was looking for your best guess as to whether this was going to be okay, so I can get another splitter on order.

Thanks Ninjas!

Edit #2: Forget anything I stated previous, regarding Gameroom Mods topper, as for plug in location. I was completely wrong in my statement above, their topper runs off the 12v at CN6. Started wondering as I didn’t remember a splitter on it, visually confirmed.

Lesson of the day, look before you speak.....just in case, lol. Apologies for the previous bad info.

A local arcade had this exact setup running, but on a LZ, not a Rush. It seemed to be fine. Each of our kits will draw up to 2/3 amp (all-white, peak brightness) but generally less. The power board should be totally fine with that, but Stern doesn't specify, so it's hard to say. Now that said, I have no idea how much current the new Rush topper is going to pull, but if I had to guess, I'm sure the power board can still handle that and our light kits.

But, if you're not one to roll the dice, you can PM me and we can figure out options on an upgrade to a dedicated power supply for our light kits that puts no burden on the Stern power system at all.

PM sent.

Got my Rush Topper Friday, and could confirm yesterday during the install that the CN7 jack on the Stern power board that NinjaCamp used for the NinjaCamp Expression Light Speaker mod is the same one that the Stern topper is wanting to use. So now I have 2 choices:

1) Make a Y-Splitter for the CN7 jack so it can feed both EL speaker lights and the topper

2) Make an alternative power feed from the 120VAC bill acceptor circuit for the EL speaker lights and plug the topper into the CN7 jack.

If I do decide to go the second route (favoring that at this point, especially in light (no pun intended) of Node board failures) can y'all fill us in on what are the power and voltage needs for the EL speaker lights that plug into CN7??

This is specific to our individual light kits (not the all-in-one kit): the speaker lights put a peak load of 2/3 amp (@48v) on CN7 (peak is when all 96 LEDs are on full bright white, which almost never happens, and even then only briefly). Most of the time they draw less. One set of speaker lights should be able to happily coexist with the topper. If I were you I'd just go the way of the splitter. Feel free to fashion your own, but if you want to go the easy route, we do sell them with the proper connectors ready to just plug n play.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods/07176-48v-power-splitter-for-stern-spike-2-systems

As to the node board failures, our light kits do not put any demand on the Node 2 board, all the power comes from CN7. We only take a data feed from the Node 2 board. Just be 100% certain to have the game fully powered off when plugging/unplugging things from CN7 or you could create a surge in the lights that could indeed damage the Node 2 board.

Sorry if I'm dense here. Where was the shooter rod plugged in? Was that CN-11?
What else plugs into CN7 besides the topper? The Ninja camp lights also plug into CN7?
Is a splitter going to be needed if you have the all-in-one kit versus multiple Ninja camp kits?
If I have the all-in-one ninja camp kit and a topper, and a shooter rod Will I need a splitter that I don't have?
Do the Stern expression lights also feed off cn7?

I'm too new at this to be able to make sense of everything unfortunately. I don't quite understand the node system yet.
So I guess I'm asking as a pro-owner, who has the shooter rod, will have stern expression lights kit, plus Ninja camp all in one kit with back box under cabinet and speaker lights, and the topper......do I have everything I need to hook everything up currently? Seems like I may need one splitter So the topper and Ninja camp can share CN7?

Appreciate your patience and help.

Thanks for the quick response.....I'll give the splitter a shot this evening, have all the parts needed myself to put things together.

The all-in-one kit uses a completely different approach to power and leaves CN7 alone so it's fully available for toppers or whatever else. However, if you have one or more of the single kits (which you don't), those do rely on power from CN7 and you will need an additional splitter for the topper. Stern's built-in expression lights do not feed off of CN7, they have a dedicated power run from the main power supply. I have no idea where the shooter rod gets its power, unfortunately (maybe someone who has one can respond to that).

But let me boil that all down to what you need to worry about given your purchases... nothing! Our kit gets power directly from the AC taps, the EL from Stern has dedicated power lines, and whatever the shooter rod does to get power must be compatible with Stern's EL kits or tons of people wouldn't be able to have both installed at the same time, which isn't the case. You should be very good to go!

Thanks Kaydee! I'm pretty sure I remember hooking up the shooter rod on CN-11 ... It was top left corner of that board by the tilt bob. There were two open connections there.

No problem! I suspected it would connect to that cab node board, just wasn't sure.

I have a splitter on there for Your speaker lights and bottom cabinet lights,can I split again ?

There is an LZ that has been running just fine with that setup and an additional splitter for the topper, so yeah, you should be good. However, if you plan to add the backbox lights, PM us and we can discuss an upgrade to the dedicated power supply and see if that's a direction you want to go.

Made the splitter last night for the CN7 48V connections and everything seems to be working fine...

OutpostKodelia can you give an update on the Expressive Speaker Light kits? What's the expected turnaround time on those right now?

Right now we're running a backlog of a couple weeks on those.

Outpostkodelia can you give an update on how long the scooby mod bundle will take to ship. I purchased on Sunday. Thanks.

It'll be shipping out tomorrow.

Hey folks, I'm sorry to say that we're running a little bit behind on orders right now. Our goal for light kits remains to ship in less than three weeks (ideally less than two). We haven't crossed that line yet, but I feel like it's coming very soon. We've had some significant family issues this past couple of weeks that have severely cut into my build time, so we may have to slip just a little. As I said, we'll still aim for less than three weeks if at all possible, but things are... unpredictable... right now, so I wanted to at least give everyone a heads up that slippage may occur.

This past year has been a rollercoaster for us. From my wife's stroke and dealing with disability, to the loss of her father (for which the estate handling got dumped on us), and a whole mess of substantial teenager issues, this has been the toughest year of my life, hands down. On the plus side, our partnership with NinjaCamp has seen unbelievable growth in both the number of products we offer and in sales. This has been very humbling and we are so grateful for everyone's patronage and support. But with the confluence of those two things, I've been busier than a... well choose your favorite cliché to complete that sentence. Once in a while, that turns into TOO busy, which is where we stand at the moment.

But I assure you that no order will go unfulfilled, and I will get these out as fast as I possibly can, while maintaining my sanity and health. Thank you for your understanding and continued support.

Kaydee @ OutpostKodelia

I am so sorry your wife, your family and you have been going through so much. Prayers for you and your family. Need to take care of family first.

anyone with the Rush speaker lights know where this orange wire came off from ?possibly right speaher light Ring ?

nevermind ,I see It now.