Is there a way to put this game on Free Play?
A friend of mine just picked one up, and would like it on Free Play. I don't see anything in the manual.
Thanks!
(Topic ID: 123617)
Linked Games
Nine Ball
Stern Electronics, 1980
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1 week later
All,
A friend of mine picked up a Nine Ball just before Christmas, and just afterwards the right flipper froze. He called me, we looked at it, and the coil had melted around the rod....unmovable.
We ordered a complete flipper rebuild kit, bushings, and 2 new J-25-475/34-4500 coils, from Pinball life and replaced everything yesterday, turned it on, started a game, and when you press:
the right flipper button.....nothing....
the left flipper button.....game resets and reboots....
???????
We were sure to note the wiring to the old coils before disassembly, and double checked it again against the schematic in the back of the manual we downloaded from IPDB.org.
The coils are getting power, about 25 volts. Schematic shows it should be 43V.
I have tracked it back as well as I can without schematics, and am thinking possibly the "SDU Relay" on the driver board is bad, but someone has also done a pretty good hack job on the rectifier board that powers the flippers, so not ruling that out either.
I've done what I can without schematics, but thought this group knowledgeable on this game/manufacturer might have some insight or direction.
I'm most familiar with this era of Williams games.
Thanks in advance for any input!
Quoted from cottonm4:Most of these old Sterns are all the same for the general use items. Go back to IPDB and look for Flight 2000 PDF Schematic Diagram since there is not one for 9 Ball.
Wonderful.....Thank you, I will check it out!
Looking at the game again, the J1 connector on the rectifier board (as well as a lot of the board itself) is pretty cooked....I'm leaning towards this.
Quoted from cottonm4:Most of these old Sterns are all the same for the general use items. Go back to IPDB and look for Flight 2000 PDF Schematic Diagram since there is not one for 9 Ball.
Page 2 is wiring diagram that works for 9 Ball as well as other Sterns.
Page 7 is transformer that works for 9 ball and others
Page 8 is coin door and wall plug wiring is same for 9 Ball and others
Page 9 is Switch Matrix and Solenoid Matrix. The flipper wiring info. (only) on top of the Flight 2000 solenoid matrix is same as 9 ball.
Page 10 is SDU info. The three drawings for continuous solenoids on left hand side of page 10 is same as 9 Ball. The bottom drawing is what you are looking for on this page.
Here is link for FLight 2000 :
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Schematic_Diagram_paginated.pdf
Quoted from frunch:Sounds like you're on the right track here. I always make it a point to replace the header pins and female connectors to the rectifier board on all classic Stern's I've owned/worked on. Very common failure point. Good luck!
Ok,
so we ordered a brand new rectifier board and connecter kit from K's Arcade, replaced all the connectors on the wiring harnesses, replaced the board, and soldered/ran all new wires from the back of the board to the transformer.
Turned it on......same thing.
Right flipper button does nothing
Left flipper button resets the game
SDU Relay?
I can see it energize when you start the game, but looking at the diagram for it, it looks like it does more than allow the flipper to work.
I'm also thinking possibly the diodes on the (brand new) flipper coils are bad allowing a short.
Everything else on the game appears to work fine, but this has me stumped as everything seems to checkout.
Also, can someone confirm proper flipper wiring? (pics Maybe)
Nine Ball manual shows the EOS switch wired between power and middle terminal (this is also how it was when disassembled), but the schematics for Flight 2000, and Seawitch, show it wired between common and middle terminal.
Thanks for any help/insight!!
Quoted from dothedoo:Here's how you want your flipper coils wired.
Power wire connects to the terminal where the large gauge coil wire is attached. It will also be the terminal where the banded end of one diode is attached.
One wire of EOS switch will attach to the terminal where both the large gauge coil wire and the small gauge coil wire are attached. This is also the terminal where the banded end of one diode and non-banded end of the other diode are attached. On standard Bally/Stern coils it's the middle terminal.
The other EOS switch wire and the flipper return wire connect to the terminal where the small gauge coil wire is attached. It will also be the terminal where the non-banded end of one diode is attached.
Same as shown in the schematics above.
Quoted from dothedoo:In this case the power wire is connected to the small gauge coil wire. I guess you just have to look at your coil and see which coil wire is connected to the outer terminal with the banded end of the diode and wire the EOS switch accordingly.
You always want current going through the power winding (large gauge wire, 3.0 ohms) so the EOS switch should always be wired across the hold winding (small gauge 350 ohms). That way when EOS switch is closed you are shorting across the hold winding, taking it out of circuit, resulting in a 3 ohm power stroke. When the EOS switch is open current now flows through the 3 ohm power winding AND the 350 ohm hold winding resulting in 353 ohms, a negligible increase in combined resistance vs. the hold winding by itself.
My brand new coils appear to have the diodes installed incorrectly (Which I wondered since the beginning).
The banded end of the diodes are towards the small gauge wire, and the middle terminal, so my power is hooked up to the small wire side.
I didn't think this looked correct when I was installing them, as I was always told the power is the large wire, but not being real familiar with Stern games, I went with it.
I will install new diodes correctly, re-wire, and hopefully this solves the issue!
Quoted from dothedoo:Don't remove/reinstall your diodes. Just connect the power wire to the outside wire at the banded end, the EOS switch to the power wire terminal and the center terminal, and the return wire on the outside terminal, non-banded end. It should then match the schematic cotton posted in post #212.
This is how it's currently hooked up, but means it has the power coming in the small wire end because of the orientation of the diodes on the new coils.
OK, then this is not my original issue with the flippers shorting something out since the rebuild...
I have.
The traces look fine, but you can tell the relay has already been replaced not using the best soldering job.
The thing driving me crazy is the game/flippers were working fine until the right flipper coil fried, now after the rebuild, neither works.
Quoted from cottonm4:This is a long shot: Any there any chance when the flipper fried that your blue/white power wire terminal at the rectifier board (A2J1-6) got hot enough to fold up inside the connector and is not make contact with the pin?
The Bally Playboy I used to have just went dead one day and all it was was that two terminals inside the J2 rectifier board connector folded up and lost contact.
I replaced the entire rectifier board, connectors, and wiring to the tranformer with all brand new this past weekend.
Quoted from frunch:Here's a pic of the right flipper on my NB.
Exactly how this one is wired.
Quoted from dothedoo:For sure J1 and J2 on the SDB are in the right place? Neither one got shifted by one pin?
Yes, they are correct, checked all many times.
I think it's either the SDU relay or some kind of short somewhere, as hitting the left flipper button actually resets the game to attract mode. Right button does nothing.
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