(Topic ID: 123617)

Nine Ball Club... (all welcome)

By mof

8 years ago


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#198 7 years ago
Quoted from johnnycruzr:

All,

the right flipper button.....nothing....
the left flipper button.....game resets and reboots....
???????
We were sure to note the wiring to the old coils before disassembly, and double checked it again against the schematic in the back of the manual we downloaded from IPDB.org.
The coils are getting power, about 25 volts. Schematic shows it should be 43V.
I have tracked it back as well as I can without schematics, and am thinking possibly the "SDU Relay" on the driver board is bad, but someone has also done a pretty good hack job on the rectifier board that powers the flippers, so not ruling that out either.
I've done what I can without schematics, but thought this group knowledgeable on this game/manufacturer might have some insight or direction.
I'm most familiar with this era of Williams games.
Thanks in advance for any input!

Most of these old Sterns are all the same for the general use items. Go back to IPDB and look for Flight 2000 PDF Schematic Diagram since there is not one for 9 Ball.

Page 2 is wiring diagram that works for 9 Ball as well as other Sterns.

Page 7 is transformer that works for 9 ball and others

Page 8 is coin door and wall plug wiring is same for 9 Ball and others

Page 9 is Switch Matrix and Solenoid Matrix. The flipper wiring info. (only) on top of the Flight 2000 solenoid matrix is same as 9 ball.

Page 10 is SDU info. The three drawings for continuous solenoids on left hand side of page 10 is same as 9 Ball. The bottom drawing is what you are looking for on this page.

Here is link for FLight 2000 :

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Schematic_Diagram_paginated.pdf

#208 7 years ago
Quoted from johnnycruzr:

Also, can someone confirm proper flipper wiring? (pics Maybe)
Nine Ball manual shows the EOS switch wired between power and middle terminal (this is also how it was when disassembled), but the schematics for Flight 2000, and Seawitch, show it wired between common and middle terminal.
Thanks for any help/insight!!

My NB is wired with the EOS between the power and middle terminal. I am looking at my original NB manual and my original F2K manuals for comparison.

Your statement ..." show it wired between common and middle terminal", confuses me because in both NB/F2K manuals, page 21 shows the 2-flipper layout to be the same (you can find page 21 for the F2K English manual at IPDB.org. for reference). I repeat, page 21, in both NB and F2K manuals is same---character for character and both of these page 21s show the EOS wired between the power terminal and the middle terminal. I do not see anything displaying the EOS wired to common.

Your statement about Seawitch confuses me further. First, I do not have an original Seawitch manual, only a copy---and I'm not sure it is correct; It is possible that some pages did not get copied, for I do not have a flipper diagram page that would correspond with page 21 in two other referenced manuals.

And to further confuse me, Seawitch is a 4-flipper game, whereas page 21 in NB and F2K manuals show a 2-flipper setup with the dotted line inclusion of an extra added flipper on the right hand flipper (which can be interpreted as valid for the left hand flipper, as well).

Schematics is not my strongest point, so I will have to study what you have stated regarding SDU flipper relay behavior. But back to page 21 in NB/F2K manuals, it shows the SDU flipper #1 relay connected to SDU connector J1-8 (green wire) and SDU flipper #2 relay connected to SDU connector J1-9 (orange wire). Coming out the other side of the relay it shows SDU J1-8 left flipper feeds to SDU connector J2-2 to the blue wire to left flipper button and SDU J1-9 right flipper feeds SDU connector J2-1 to red wire to right flipper button.

As I said , I will need to study the schematics relating to possible other functions for the relay but for simple wiring NB and F2K are same.

Please advise me what you have on Seawitch?

#211 7 years ago
Quoted from johnnycruzr:

I am referring to the attached schematic for Flight 2000 that shows the EOS between the ground and middle terminal of the coil.
The manuals show it between the power and middle, as you stated.
I also downloaded the Seawitch schematics as an extra reference only

I see what you are speaking of now. I just reviewed the Stern manuals that I have. Three of them, Big Game, Meteor, and Quicksilver have the schematics drawn with the EOS wired between the power wire and the middle wire. I don't own a Meteor or Quicksilver and my Big Game is apart for restoration so I cannot verify how these three are wired. My guess is the EOS is wired to the power and middle and I will say these three schematics are correct.

I do own a Dragonfist and Seawitch and both of those pins are wired as the first three I mentioned. However, the schematics match the F2K schematics you referenced, leaving me with the opinion these two schematics are not drawn correctly.

The other schematics that I have are also not drawn correctly, as well; They are Ali, Catacomb, Cheetah, Flight 2000, Galaxy, Nine Ball, Split Second, and Stargazer.

Referencing IPDB.org for the schematics I do not own shows: Lighting is not correct; Freefall is not correct. Iron Maiden is not correct; Viper--no schematics;

So, of the 16 Sterns with the MPU-200 series board (not counting Viper, Cue or Orbiter 1), only three games (Meteor #1 in series), Big Game #4), and (Quicksilver # 7) have the schematics correctly showing the EOS wired to power and middle terminal. The schematics for the other 13 appear to be drawn incorrectly.

Maybe some of the old timers know of this drawing discrepancy but I have only been doing this for a little over a year. I consider it an interesting discovery that you made. It does not help you with your Nine Ball problem, but it is interesting how many drawings left the Stern shop not drawn correctly.

#212 7 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Here's how you want your flipper coils wired.
Power wire connects to the terminal where the large gauge coil wire is attached. It will also be the terminal where the banded end of one diode is attached.
One wire of EOS switch will attach to the terminal where both the large gauge coil wire and the small gauge coil wire are attached. This is also the terminal where the banded end of one diode and non-banded end of the other diode are attached. On standard Bally/Stern coils it's the middle terminal.
The other EOS switch wire and the flipper return wire connect to the terminal where the small gauge coil wire is attached. It will also be the terminal where the non-banded end of one diode is attached.
Same as shown in the schematics above.

Dothedoo, that schematic does not match the diagram on page 21 for the F2K manual. See attached. I schematic looks ass backwards to me. What am I not seeing ?

Screen Shot 2017-01-22 at 11.37.49 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2017-01-22 at 11.37.49 PM (resized).png

#221 7 years ago
Quoted from johnnycruzr:

I have.
The traces look fine, but you can tell the relay has already been replaced not using the best soldering job.
The thing driving me crazy is the game/flippers were working fine until the right flipper coil fried, now after the rebuild, neither works.

This is a long shot: Any there any chance when the flipper fried that your blue/white power wire terminal at the rectifier board (A2J1-6) got hot enough to fold up inside the connector and is not make contact with the pin?

The Bally Playboy I used to have just went dead one day and all it was was that two terminals inside the J2 rectifier board connector folded up and lost contact.

1 month later
#227 7 years ago
Quoted from johnnycruzr:

Yes, they are correct, checked all many times.
I think it's either the SDU relay or some kind of short somewhere, as hitting the left flipper button actually resets the game to attract mode. Right button does nothing.

Did you ever get your flipper issue resolved?

2 months later
#228 6 years ago

New product for your Nine Ball:...........

A few months ago over on the Big Game Safari board, we got something going with a gentleman with some skills to produce some 555 lamp boards so we could get rid of 27 troublesome #47/#44 bulbs. He made us some real nice boards for Big Game. Some of the people over at the BG board said they would like some of these 555 lamp boards for their Nine Ball pins.

The producer sent me a set of prototype boards to install in my own Nine Ball and help him get them fitted correctly. I got them installed and lit up this afternoon. They are nice. All the lights work and are burning bright.

Would any one on this board be interested in getting a set for their Nine Ball? Let me know and I'll send the producer some numbers of how many he needs to make.

This board is for the lights in the Nine Ball rack between the slingshots.

IMG_3869 (resized).JPGIMG_3869 (resized).JPG

These two boards replace those that live next to the drop target assembly.

IMG_3881 (resized).JPGIMG_3881 (resized).JPG

#232 6 years ago

I forgot to ask him how many he needs to sell to make it happen. I"ll find out.

#234 6 years ago

Because these boards are prototypes I had to make some adjustments for fitting the Nine Ball Rack board between the slingshot brackets. I have advised the producer of the clearance issue and mostly likely the final Nine Ball Rack board will have two permanent white LEDs installed at the 4-ball position and the 5-ball position. This would be so you do not have any problems with getting it fitted to your Nine Ball and it removes the risk of you ruining your board if you make a bad cut while trying to get it fitted.

If having two permanent LEDs installed is an issue for you, please speak up.

Here is his website. You can see what he is offering for Big Game and get an idea of prices. As well as the three boards, you will need to factor in the price of the 555 sockets that are available and also go buy some 555 bulbs.

http://pinballreplacementparts.com/products?page=1

#236 6 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

I'm in for a reasonable price.
How was the install/wiring?

The install was easy. Make sure you place a dab of solder on all the pads and that your wire is tinned and it is an easy job. For the two boards by the drop target assembly there was enough wire I was able to lay the boards flat on the table and then install. Since these boards line up to screw mounting holes for the boards you are replacing, the install is straight forward with the provided hardware.

For the Nine Ball rack board, I had to install it and then do the solder work. For installation of this board you need to get lined up to the lamp insert holes and drill your own mounting holes on the play field. This is not hard but if you get in a hurry and do not pay attention you could mis-drill your mounting holes. It is wood you are working with and it is easy to correct a mistake, but still......

As long as you prep the board and tin your wire, soldering in an upright position is not difficult.

EDIT: You have two feature lights that are grounded to your current boards. There are common points on the boards that you will be able to ground to but you will need to make a replacement ground wire. I used two ring terminals and made a pigtail to connect the two lights and solder to the common point on the board.

IMG_3867 copy (resized).JPGIMG_3867 copy (resized).JPG

I hesitate to bring this up because it is not necessary, but I took a strip of brass and made a bus and then I soldered pigtails to the common points on all three boards and attached all the ground wiring to my brass bus. I am very happy with the way this turned out, but as I said, it is not necessary.

IMG_3883 (resized).JPGIMG_3883 (resized).JPG

#241 6 years ago

So far, the tally is for 9 kits. One person on the Big Game board wants in, and I have a private message from someone else so right now the total is 11 kits.

#244 6 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

That's awesome news!! I'm in for at least 1 set, possibly 2 depending on price. Thanks Ilikewires for your hard work and cottonm4 for using your game for beta testing. You guys rock!

You make it 10, possibly 11, and I have another shy type send me a PM for 12.

#251 6 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

count me in for 1 set.

That makes you #13.

Would the next one who is in please say you are #14. Thanks.

#252 6 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Thanks for taking on this project, and good call making a board for the 9 bonus count lamps too! This is great!

I have told him several times that I want him to make a profit on the Big Game boards and now the Nine Ball boards. The reason is simple; I'm greedy. I want to see him make boards for my other classic Sterns, too And it takes money to make the mare go.

#256 6 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Craig,
I picked up a Nine Ball today. Put me down for a lamp board. I'll be set #15.
John

OK. A Nine Ball to go with your Seawitch. Not bad.

3 months later
#276 6 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

CPR just announced in their monthly newsletter that they will be making Nine Ball playfields! I will find a link tonight after I get back from my tournament

Fantastic ! Something else for me to spend my money on

#278 6 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

That is good news but, honestly, I was hoping the Hardtop playfield guys would release a hardtop for Nine Ball first. Less expensive and easier to install than a full playfield swap. Plus, if it really is more durable than clear coat, it seems like it would be a good alternative.
If you feel the same, vote for Nine Ball here: (and maybe Embryon too
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardtop-playfield-new-product-announcement-poll-included

Do you know for a fact that it is more durable then clear coat? Or are you just speculating? Here is one thing about clear coat no one talks about. If something was to happen to your clear coat, it would be no big deal to strip the top of your play field, sand and prep and put on a new coat of clear---just like painting and re-painting a car.

I like those hardtops and think those guys are doing a super job. But if given a choice, I would rather have a full repro play field to swap.

8 months later
#290 5 years ago

Don't waste you time. The English Manual on IPDB is not complete. It is the manual only. There are no schematics.

#291 5 years ago
Quoted from eaf67:

Hi to every one.
I Just joined.
I have a Nine Ball here in Argentina, I love it.
My other project is to disassembly its rom, I haven't the lamp matrix and it is difficult to guess the internal working without knowing each lamp number.
Do anyone have the lamp schematics for this pinball?

I just PM you two pages of schematics that include the switch matrix, solenoid matrix, and the lamp callouts.

#294 5 years ago
Quoted from eaf67:

Thanks!!!
I let you know if I need more resolution but it can be read good.
The lamp matrix is not an easy figure, i've been searching it for a long time.
Thanks again.

I can provide more resolution if needed. While the Nine Ball book that has been loaded to IPDB does not have the schematics, there are other Classic Sterns on ipdb.org that you can get the other schematics. For the most part, the schematics for these Classic Sterns are the same. Same coin door, same display schematic, same rectifier board ( except Catacomb is a bit different with one extra wire on the J-3 connector). Basically, the only difference in the different game schematics is the switch, solenoid, and lamp matrix.

The schematic for the SDU is different. Some of the info. on the SDU is generic info. but some is game specific. I may need to send you a copy of that.
With this SDU exception, you can get all of the schematics you need for your Nine Ball by getting them from the Seawitch schematics.

http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=seawitch&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick#2089

#297 5 years ago
Quoted from eaf67:

I let you know about the resolution.
I've downloaded many manuals from IPDB, I'll check your link anyway.
I don't want to abuse of your kindness, but if you don't mind to send me a copy of the SDU schematic I'll be grateful.

Check your PM box. The SDU schematic should be there.

#301 5 years ago
Quoted from eaf67:

As cottonm4 said.
All Stern pinballs (Bally too) share a common architecture, and only the final connections to solenoid, switches and lamps are specific to each pinball.
Download the schematics for seawitch at IPDB, see

About the specific parts, I've received the info from him and I can't share it without his approval.
If you search in IPDB for Nine Ball you can download the owner's manual without schematics.

I already have him covered. Plus, I have one additional scan that I am going to send your way, as well. But you do not need my approval to share those. Pass them around whenever you see the need. But thanks for thinking about me; That is very kind.

1 week later
#315 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

The packing was awesome... i don’t thing you can do better then that!

Yeah, John's packing is 2nd to no one's.

2 weeks later
#333 5 years ago

Keep putting up pics, please. I like to follow your work.

2 weeks later
#341 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

look like she's already restored!

Yeah. Looks brand new!

#347 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

ready for the first coat of clear

Looks real nice, man.

#362 5 years ago
Quoted from LorenZ:

hello I'm still looking for the schematics. any help welcome ^^ cheers !

When I return home in 2 weeks I can help you out.

#367 5 years ago
Quoted from LorenZ:

Thanks so much for your help: I'm looking for the whole shematic : original paper, repro or pdf welcome !
Firstly, I've got 2 non working inserts, what is the number of transistors for those, on the lamp board ?
Cheers ^^

I have exactly what you need. I should be home July 7-8 and can PM or email you.

#378 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Playfeild rub-on decal

Don't tease me RK. Where do I buy those rub-ons at?

3 weeks later
#387 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

The before and after pics

You are doing some amazing work, RK.

3 weeks later
#396 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Anybody here have reference for cabinet color code?, just ask before i have it scan....

Looking real nice, Ketchup !

I can't help you with color codes

2 weeks later
#409 5 years ago
Quoted from JONESDS:

Huh... and here I thought I had an odd ball Nine Ball because the playfield slide on the left side was incomplete compared to the right side. I guess that was typical then? It makes working on the bottom playfield a chore, how do folks get around that? I feel like I'm missing something.

Quoted from TheLaw:

Haha no it's lame isn't it? First thing I did when looking at it was move the playfield up like Meteor and *bam* PF went down.
I'll be adding some wood to that side to make the rail longer.

You cannot just add a piece of wood to the side to make the rail longer. There is a reason for the engineer's madness with this gap. That long gap is in there for clearance for the drop target assembly.

I have never posted these pics before; I guess now is at good time as any.

1) First, you have to make a new solid base for the rail. It sits lower than the rail and is low enough that the drop target will not interfere.

IMG_1597 (resized).JPGIMG_1597 (resized).JPG

Then you make a movable base to sit on top.

IMG_1601 (resized).JPGIMG_1601 (resized).JPG

IMG_1604 (resized).JPGIMG_1604 (resized).JPG

To get this part to the correct length I had to remove one inch of wood off of the back part of the upper rail. This is the piece of wood you are talking about but it needs to be removable or you will never be able to lower your play field. You can stop at this point. When you need to tilt the play field back you install this removable wood rail. Then remove it and lay it in the bottom of the cab when you want to lower the play field

IMG_1610 (resized).JPGIMG_1610 (resized).JPG

IMG_1612 (resized).JPGIMG_1612 (resized).JPG

I took it a step further and made a reversible slider so I had a slide to use to just slide the play field up and down. I also had to make a slider to the right hand side. The green and white stripes are my signal that it is OK to lower the play field. The red and white stripes are my signal I cannot lower the play field.

IMG_2766 (resized).JPGIMG_2766 (resized).JPG
IMG_2768 (resized).JPGIMG_2768 (resized).JPG
IMG_2770 (resized).JPGIMG_2770 (resized).JPG

#412 5 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I didn't mean adding a piece the entire length, just 4-5" which I've seen on another machine. That's funny though I never even considered it had to do with that massive bank.

"just 4 or 5 inches" ? Why bother? You still would have a gap you have to lift the play field over. I don't understand.

1 week later
#424 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Little question before i go back home tonight...
What the thickness of the MDF border around the backbox? I need to stop when back home tonight and can't take the mesurement myself right now

It measures 5/8". Or 15.875 mm. This is from a Nine Ball back box I own.

I could not find that size in my stores and I do not have a planer so I went with 3/4". No one will ever know.

1 month later
#427 5 years ago

Help Please !!

My Nine Ball has always been a problem child ever since I brought it home. It has sat idle for quite some as I have been busy sorting out my other pins and while life's general living took priority. Now, I am back tackling it.

I have NB set up with an Alltek MPU and an Alltek SDU. So, there are no board problems.

My main problem that I can't figure out is when I press the credit button to start a new game two balls will get launched into the shooter lane. I just got finished cleaning and adjusting all the switch points ( the same thing I was doing several months ago when I had to step away).

I don't if there is a switch somewhere else on the play field that is not adjusted correctly or it is a bad micro switch (1 of 2) in the ball launch assembly. I have done continuity test on the micro switches and the micro switches will break continuity when I release the switch activation wire.

Oh yeah, one other thing: If the remove the 2nd ball that is crowding the shooter lane and place in back in the outhole it will shoot another ball into the shooter lane. I can do this all do this all day long which makes me want to think I have a bad micro switch, but in the back of my mind I keep thinking the microswitch is getting an errant signal from somewhere else.

Can anybody direct me where to be looking in order to fix this major problem?

Thanks.

#430 5 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Have you checked the ball lock switches too? Perhaps one of those if faulty or stuck closed?

I'll look at those again.

Quoted from TheLaw:

Switch in the shooter lane chief. Just had this issue myself.

I have adjusted the shooter lane switch and cleaned the contacts. That was of no help.

#431 5 years ago

One other question while I chase the double launch problem.

Are the two 3-bank drop target assemblies supposed to return to standing position after you knock down the 3rd target?

With my other pins, once you knock down the 3rd target in a bank (or 4th target in Seawitch) they all stand back up ready for more action.

On this NB, the targets stay down until the ball drains and launches the next ball. Sometimes, it seems they get some sort of signal to bounce back up during game play but it is not consistent.

I don't know how this pin is supposed to work.

#433 5 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Don't be offended, you have 3 balls in the game right?

Yes. 3 balls. Found the hard way that if all 3 balls are not loaded then a game won't start. On offense taken.

#434 5 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

No. After hitting both banks down, 1 bank will come back up at a time, alternating.

Thanks. Nice to know.

#436 5 years ago

I solved the double-ball launch issue. This is my Homer Simpson "Doh!" moment.

Way back when I got the pin, I made a concerted effort to clean the under-play field wiring without removing said wiring. During that cleaning I removed several switches for access. One of the switches I removed was put back in a backwards position so a switch that was supposed to be normally open had replaced as normally closed. That blunder caused several issues. Correcting the switch fixed 3-4 other problems.

But I am still scratching my head with the two 3-bank drop targets. When I hit them they go down. But they will not come back until the ball drains and resets the game for the next ball. That action does not feel right to me. Mine will not even alternate with going up and down.

#439 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Look lime you may have a switch That doesn’t registre

Quoted from brenna98:

time to invest in some magic brushes for your dremel. amazon.com link »
Whisk between the contacts to remove tarnish and restore connectivity. Like franks red hot; I use that shit of everything!

I already cleaned the switches and adjusted them for contact. But I have two drop targets that are just dead. One target is on a 5-item string in the matrix and the other is on a 4-item string in the matrix. The other 7 items in these two strings are operating normally.

I'll post what I find when I find it.

#442 5 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

With the glass off I checked the targets and found only two of them on one of the three banks (of course the one way in the back) to have variable responsiveness. Cleaning the contacts did not seem to change much.

Yep. The drop all the way in the back. I'm lazy. I am just going to pull the assembly, clean it up, add a Molex connector, and replace the diodes. It all needs to be done, anyway. Then I will trouble shoot.

Thanks for the direction.

3 weeks later
#445 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Nine ball coin door. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is some of the best hammertone I have seen. I know it is going to be a Canadian brand that we cannot in the states (sigh).

#455 5 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Both of the original machines I have had the solid red target -- so I left them that way.
I too saw the bullseye in other pictures; I even had a decal made to install on the target to try and match them. At some point I decided the bullseye was added to similar targets in aftermarket form or in games after Nine Ball -- but its just a theory.
[quoted image]

I bought a bulls eye target from Steve at PBR. I'm not sure but I think it was the last one he had.

2 months later
#459 5 years ago

Finally. After 3 years I finally have my Nine Ball up and hitting on all cylinders. There were so many little things that were out of tune and I was still too new to repairing pinball machines that I was a little lost. Also, at the time, I was busy chasing the other pins that are now in my collection that Nine Ball sort of got stuck in the corner.

But yesterday, I was finally able to put the play field glass on. And I have been playing it. Hard.

It is so different from the other Sterns. Different skill sets need to be learned. Nine Ball, like Seawitch, has some easy out lanes, as opposed to Catacomb and Dragonfist with their killer out lanes.

What I do not yet understand is how multi-ball works. The saucer on the left side is a bit problematic. Some times, it will lock balls and maybe shoot them out one at a time. Other times, it will lock 3 balls and give a 2-ball multi-ball or maybe a 3-ball multi-ball. Other times it will freeze the machine and I have to turn it off and restart it.

I'll be busy figuring it out. But it is a nice pin to play.

#470 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

I've read many times that the ball lock trough switches need to be adjusted properly, the outhole switches need to be adjusted properly, and the shooter lane switch also. I would try putting the game in switch test next time a weird error like that occurs and see if one of the switches is open when it should be closed or vice versa.

There is no mystery to the switches. They surely confused me when I bought this beast home 3 years back, but I was still learning how to work on my pins then; I'm still learning, but you get the idea.

The 2 ball lock switches and 2 outhole switches are micro switches. They are the same switches that are used on the coin door. They can go bad but there is not too much to adjust. They are on-off switches. The trip wires may need to be adjusted but if the ball is rolling over the wire and not getting hung up on a wire that has been tweaked too much then the micro switch is more than likely OK.

You can test a micro switch with a multimeter and a couple of alligator clips. I have never opened up a micro switch so I cannot say with certainty that a micro switch can show intermittent problems but my thoughts are a micro switch is going to work or it is not---with no in-betweens.

If a micro switch is bad then is is going to be bad 100%, IMO. My Nine Ball action is not 100% consistent. Sometimes it works; Sometimes it doesn't.

The shooter lane switch is a blade type switch. It is no different than any other blade type switch. It needs to be clean and gapped properly and offers the usual headaches blade switches display when they are acting up.

Added over 5 years ago:

EDIT: The two switches on the ball lock on the left side of the play field are blades switches. They are not micro switches as I stated.

#472 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

through contact wear they usually start out becoming intermittent

Thanks for clearing that up.

Should we be considering switch replacement as a possible solution to this problem? I can't speak for the others but my NB sure shows interment behavior.

2 weeks later
#479 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Almost done! Little touch up to do
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

When you finish your NB it is going to look like NIB. Very nice work.

#481 5 years ago

I have been playing the daylights out of my Nine Ball since I recently got it running.

It is a righteous pin.

Definitely no slouch when it comes to short ball times; Ball 3? Already? it has only been 40 seconds.

I had a problem over on the left hand side of the play field so I did a mod.

Whenever the ball launched from the saucer and rolled down behind the drop targets it was being pinched between the ball guide along the rail and the rubber sitting behind the lower set of drop targets. The result is that most times the ball would come out from behind the rubber and drain SDTM. I don't know if this was by engineering design to pick your pockets or a manufacturing issue. And possibly it is only my NB that has this problem.

Here is a pic showing the tight fit of the ball along the rubber. At the bottom plastic post the ball was really pinched.

IMG_9758 (resized).JPGIMG_9758 (resized).JPG

I repositioned the bottom post and moved it inboard almost a complete hole. If you look carefully, you can see where I moved to hole close to the back of the drop target. You can also see the original hole that I plugged. The scale shows how the alignment of the bottom post is inboard of the other three posts.

IMG_9750 (resized).JPGIMG_9750 (resized).JPG

IMG_9755 (resized).JPGIMG_9755 (resized).JPG

This pic shows the clearance I now have between the lower post and the ball.

IMG_9764 (resized).JPGIMG_9764 (resized).JPG

The result of making this mod is that now when the ball leaves the saucer it scoots down and launches over to the right hand flipper where you have a chance to do something more than just watch the ball drain SDTM. It is is even better because the ball likes to run up the flipper and up the ball guide and make a frustrating roll over into the outlane. I much prefer this action that you can play to as opposed to just watching the ball drain.

I still get a little pinching from the two middle posts but since I like the results of relocating the one hole I am going to relocate the two middle ones as well.

It is a tight fit in this area so as a precaution I shaved off a bit from the front of the post so there will be no interference with the back of the drop target.

#483 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

What about a size down rubber ring in this area? the rubber will take less space...

What? Like get a shorter rubber ring and it will stretch more?

I don't know.

I can look in my ring supply and see if I have one size down and try that.

#489 5 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

The problem isn't the rubber or the post, it's the fact the metal guide has bowed out from the siderail and constricts the lane.
I fixed mine by sticking a piece of mylar onto the metal, wrapping up and over the wall (pulling the metal against the wood), down the side and uder the PF for extra area to stick. Could also just drill and secure the metal wall with small countersunk screws outside of the ball path. No need to move posts, especially when that may affect drop target action.

Yes. You are correct. I never saw that. I feel like a fool.

Quoted from TheLaw:

And in fact is that the nail for the guide BEHIND the guide? There's something sitting right there.

There is nothing behind the guide. I'll have to check into why it has warped. And will probably anchor it with a small screw, as suggested. Or I might just remove it and tweak it.

#497 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

All the part are there... just need to put it together
[quoted image]

Hot Damn !!!!! Red Ketchup, you are going to put us all to shame with level of workmanship you are putting into your Nine Ball.

#501 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Backglass white panel and head documentation
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did you get all of your nice new shiny white cable clamps?

Screen Shot 2019-02-18 at 7.29.33 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-02-18 at 7.29.33 PM (resized).png

#505 5 years ago
Quoted from heme:

are these pictures only blank for me? or can other people see them.

Quoted from Redketchup:

I see it...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You did a double post. The 2nd one is blank.

#511 5 years ago

Try changing TOP D.L.T. grey wire. THat is your bull's eye target.

other than that, I don't know

#513 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Top LDT is top left drop target, the bulleye target is already change (loop DT)
I will change it, but the accessibility is a PITA... this why i didn’t already change it

Just pull the drop target assembly. It is not that hard and I am sure you know how tackle to the 3 switches on the back. I recently had to remove my drop target assembly to fix a broken wire. It can be done.

#515 5 years ago
Quoted from heme:

did you polish everything? or is the plating better in later sterns, the plating on my stars is all zinc and oxidized.
Also do all stern have those metal playfield holder brackets?

You can polish the zinc plating with a buffing wheel. It will shine. But mine has started dulling out after a couple of years. I am going to do more polishing this summer and this time I am going to spray on some gloss clear in an effort to hold the shine for a long time.

From Hot Hand and on, all Sterns use those play field "Z" brackets for play field mounting. The Dracula cab I had used wood blocks for play field support.

#517 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Make some progress tonight
After changing all the drop target diode... no change.
I disconnect j3 on the MPU... no change.
I put the game in test mode and with the manuel, i check all the switch with the number in the manuel. everything was ok except the #2 drop target, was supposed to be #10 and it was #2 (#2 is the number for the middle coin switch... all the other switch was ok. The #2 drop target was the one causing my problem.
So I check for something wrong around it, move some wire, unscrew the drop target assembly to see if it goes away... nothing, still see #2 and suposed to be #10. I notice when i touch both blade of the switch, without touching the activating arm of the drop target, the #2 go away and the #10 apears.
After that, i decide to change the target. Look like my target was short somewhere, everything was back to normal with the new one.
Now i need to find why my start button stop working when all the drop target from the right bank are down.

Glad you are getting there.

When I brought my NB home 3 years ago and set it up my credit button would not work. I swapped coin doors and that was no help. Then the credit button just started working. I don't know why. NB sat for a long time before I got it running 4 weeks ago. It was been working fine until yesterday. It shut down in middle of game and would not work. Today, it still would not work. So I pushed the solenoid test button in the coin door and all solenoids worked and then my credit button was working again. I don't know why but you might try doing the solenoid test and see if you get lucky.

I have Alltek boards in mine. I don't why I have a credit button problem.

#519 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Ok thank's
this look like my last problem...
I have a probleme with my start button... If all the drop on the right bank drop target are down, when I press the start button... the game reboot. If one, two or all drop traget are up... I can start the game and everything work like it should...
Already change the diode on the start switch, all drop target, tilt and slam switch. I also change the switch itself. I check closely for any short on the coin door.
If I goes in test switch mode, the # associated with the start button is Ok, idem if I check it with all the drop down...
Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.
Any idea

If I understand correctly, these are your problem circuits. None of it makes sense.

The coin door, Tilt, and Slam got to MPU A4-J3. Drops go to MPU A4-J2.

Is there any possibility there could be a problem with your MPU? Do any of your Sterns have an Alltek MPU you could swap and see if there is any change?

Screen Shot 2019-02-22 at 10.44.11 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-02-22 at 10.44.11 AM (resized).png

#521 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.

I have no idea what is causing the problem. I know you know how to wire up a play field.

But touching the tilt or slam tilt causing a reboot is strange. Can you disable your tilt and slam by cutting or desoldering the wires and see if this corrects the problem with the drop targets? Other than swapping MPUs, which is a long shot, I cannot think of anything else.

#522 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

you are right... this is the correct circuit...
I don't have an altec MPU but i have 6 classic stern, so I can certainly swap the MPU... but everything was Ok before the playfield swap and the coin door restoration

My Nine Ball just locked up again. I know this is of no real help for you, but the dead credit buttons puzzle me.

Mine drained on ball 2 but the outhole did not kick the ball out for ball 3. My game is held in suspension. Nothing works to kick the ball out and get the game moving. So I have to turn it off and then back on. But after I turn it back on the credit button is dead. Ding-Dong Dead. So, I have to press the test button and cycle through the solenoids test. After the solenoids test I have to turn the pin off and then back on and my credit button is working again.

And I have no idea why this happens.

#524 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Do you have good voltages at the test points on the rectifier board and sdu? Have you re-pinned connectors on the rectifier board and re-capped sdu? Also, does your mpu have any battery corrosion? I had similar issues on my NB and had to fix all that stuff before it would work properly without occasionally locking up or resetting.

i have both an Alltek MPU and SDU. I replaced the MPU due to battery corrosion. I also re-pinned every connector when I brought it home.

Before I figured out that I could push the test button to go back to normal, I noticed that if I lifted the play field to have a look around and that when i lowered the play field that everything was OK. I don't see and loose wire connections.

#526 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Just to be sure, you also re-pinned all the connectors on the rectifier board too?

Yes. Re-pinned 100%. But I did not use the trifurcate pins for the .156s. Perhaps I should re-do the the rectifier board with them? It might be a good bet.

#528 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

you are right... this is the correct circuit...
I don't have an altec MPU but i have 6 classic stern, so I can certainly swap the MPU... but everything was Ok before the playfield swap and the coin door restoration

Hey RK,

What about the two micro-switches in the outhole? Are they still good? All three switches have to show a ball is being counted before the credit button will work. Try putting one ball into the ball lock and see if that changes anything. Use your ohmmeter and make sure those two micro-switches are working.

Make sure the outhole switch is adjusted properly---if it is not making contact then your credit button will not work. With your new build there is a chance this switch has gone out of adjustment.

#531 5 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Problem solved, game is in the line up!
How cool is a classic stern line up? I Really like it
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My mouth waters. That looks nice and a whole lot of great pinball playing. You do need a Seawitch in there somewhere

#541 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Where does everyone have their "Kirk post" installed? I'm shopping out my NB at the moment and realized the post isn't centered in the art between/below the flippers. Should the post be in the center of that sort of star-shaped art? (Meaning i would move the post up a little to center it in that circle it's currently sitting towards the bottom of)
[quoted image]

Mine is in the center of that white dot. Looks like that is the only place it has ever been.

#544 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Mine apparently has gotten around a bit, lol. There's a hole above the one it's currently mounted in, and another further below and a bit to the right. I'll finally install it in it's correct position

I'm thinking about removing mine. It's like a cheap insurance policy and never there when you really need it.

Oh, when I have some mediocre 100,000 point game rolling it is there saying " I'll protect you" as keeps kicking the ball back onto the play field. But when I get a hot 700,000--800,000 point game rolling, I swear that little bastard is made of rubber. Sometimes I can just see it smile at me, flip me off, and just sort of lean to the side and let the ball roll into the drain. And saying something like, "You just bought the Bronze policy which is only good for 100,000 points. For real protection, you should have bought the Gold policy which would be good to 950,000 points.

#548 5 years ago
Quoted from PappyBoyington:

Does anybody sell the wiring harness for classic Sterns? I though I saw somebody making them for Sea Witch.
Rich

Third Coast Pinball is making some Stern harnesses.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball

3 months later
#560 4 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

Quick question...
How difficult your 8 ball is to do with a direct it.... i think mine is impossible to do. i was planning to change the middle post for something different that will give more space for a direct shot
Whats the best choice in your opinion... metal one (third photo) to keep hadware in the same area, the plastic red one to keep the look the same?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you are looking for more space, you need to use the metal one with the smaller diameter for the rubber. And install it like the manufacturers do them now. You will want a washer on the top side of the play field as well as the lower side.

#562 4 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Bah I'd keep it factory. You can;t hit it straight you gotta bank it off the rail...it's pool!

Are we playing Slop or Call Shot ?

4 months later
#591 4 years ago
Quoted from Barakawins1:

Fixed!
***Update*** Fixed .05uf 100v capacitor shorted on the 2nd call micro switch. Clipped capacitor off and fixed the problem. Sheesh! I hope this helps someone. I'll replace with .05uf 100v capacitor***

How did you figure that out? Always interested in learning troubleshooting techniques.

2 weeks later
#598 4 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

I’m trying to figure out if I should go through the work to restore my playfield or shelve it (or get it working as is) and wait for a possible repro.
Is there anything official in the works? Obviously if Greatwich does it, that’s great, but I would just tune mine up knowing what to expect from that timeline (no offense) while waiting patiently for the result.
Anyways, been in the club for a bit. Combined 2 games to make 1 and had a choice of picking an ashy working playfield over a glossy but yellowed farm fresh playfield. Just installed the lamp boards as like most stern games every socket was bad.
[quoted image]

I was talking with Mirco last year about furnishing my Nine Play field for a "master" copy. Those talks have gone nowhere and now with the problems Crispin has had with his Qicksilver play field and Mirco I am not too interested in sending my NB play field to Germany.

I don't know if Greatwich would take this on, but even if he did some one would have to send him the art work first . Setting up the art work is no easy task and requires the skills of an experienced artist.

1 week later
#602 4 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

cottonm4 Good news. Stu Wright at CPR said that they are still looking for a donor playfield. He’s not on Pinside but you can reach him through Facebook

I sent Stu some pics. He needs a better example. He cannot use my play field.

1 month later
#628 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Gosh! Back in the day, nobody wanted Stern games.
$250.00 or $300.00 dollars and people would still argue for a cheaper price.

I wish I had been around at those prices.

Not counting Cue and Orbitor 1, there were 17 MPU-200 Sterns built. Each one is so different from the other. The only items they all share in common is a pair of flippers in front of the out hole and most of them all use the curved ball guides to redirect the ball in some fashion.

They are fantastic entertainment.

1 month later
#634 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Congrats welcome to the club! Try Mayfair Amusements for those parts:
http://www.mayfairamusement.com/parts.html
Also may want to try The Pinball Resource: http://www.pbresource.com

For the dead pop bumper cap, PBR has them in blanks of various colors. You will have to supply your own text.

Screen Shot 2020-02-15 at 3.00.05 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-02-15 at 3.00.05 PM (resized).png

#638 4 years ago
Quoted from Pingball:

Thanks for the info!
That red drop target, was it only used on Nine Ball? Can't say I've seen one like that before.
Hoping this will clean up pretty nice.[quoted image]

I think you wiil be quite happy with the clean up. It appears that all of the balls are in great shape. I cannot see the 3000 over in the left lane, but would be very happy is my play field looks like yours,.

#643 4 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Condition looks very similar to the one I recently found. I think I have decided to make a clear playfield protector for it but not certain yet.

Quoted from Barakawins1:

If you make this protector, I'm in for one. I think 9 ball needs it

I made a protector 3 years back for my Nine Ball. I did that before I ever played a game on this pin. They are not hard to make. If you have some scissors and some other basic tools you can make one.

Here is one I just finished making for my Dragonfist. I am making this one a little bit different than my others. For this one, I haver added some some spacers to elevate the ball guides. This is letting me make my cuts so the protector sits under the ball guides without being pinched by the guides. This allows for a cleaner appearance since I did not have to make cuts to fit inside the guides.

The protector is locked into position by clamping it to the play field with the 3 posts that sit behind the mid-play field drop assembly. The rest of the protector floats free at all points on the play field.

I should have it complete and playing in a couple more hours. With the new way I used to place it under the guides it can barely be seen.

Don't be seduced by the new shiny look. As you play and wax the play field, eventually the shine will fade. It will still look good but it will dull out a little bit.

IMG_3047 (resized).jpgIMG_3047 (resized).jpg
IMG_3050 (resized).jpgIMG_3050 (resized).jpgIMG_3051 (resized).jpgIMG_3051 (resized).jpgIMG_3059 (resized).jpgIMG_3059 (resized).jpgIMG_3078 (resized).jpgIMG_3078 (resized).jpgIMG_3079 (resized).jpgIMG_3079 (resized).jpg

#644 4 years ago
Quoted from jahbarron:

Normally I'm not a fan.

Agreed. Clear coat is much better. As I work to get mine restored, the protector will go away.

#645 4 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I made a protector 3 years back for my Nine Ball. I did that before I ever played a game on this pin. They are not hard to make. If you have some scissors and some other basic tools you can make one.
Here is one I just finished making for my Dragonfist. I am making this one a little bit different than my others. For this one, I haver added some some spacers to elevate the ball guides. This is letting me make my cuts so the protector sits under the ball guides without being pinched by the guides. This allows for a cleaner appearance since I did not have to make cuts to fit inside the guides.
The protector is locked into position by clamping it to the play field with the 3 posts that sit behind the mid-play field drop assembly. The rest of the protector floats free at all points on the play field.
I should have it complete and playing in a couple more hours. With the new way I used to place it under the guides it can barely be seen.
Don't be seduced by the new shiny look. As you play and wax the play field, eventually the shine will fade. It will still look good but it will dull out a little bit.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

One other thing I did this time was to make some relief cuts on the side rail where the rubbers are. I found that there are instances where the post sits so close to the rail that it is difficult to remove and reinstall a new rubber. These relief cuts make a lot of difference and most of the time the cuts will be hidden under the plastics so you don't see them.

IMG_3068 (resized).jpgIMG_3068 (resized).jpg

IMG_3074 (resized).jpgIMG_3074 (resized).jpg

#651 4 years ago
Quoted from Pingball:

Great work on the protector! Where do you get the plastic sheeting?
Hadn't thought to put post LED's facing downwards rather than under the post. Going to give that a try.

Ebay

ebay.com link: Clear PETG plastic sheets 020 x 24 x 48 Polyester Sheet RC Hobby

The Comet LED sells those post lights and also the matrix lighting strips that are also cool as hell.

https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/matrix-lights-wiring

#652 4 years ago
Quoted from Barakawins1:

Well if someone can make me a protector, I'd gladly pay you for it.

I have thought about a little bit. I'd like to help you out, but...

I have the perfect pattern on my Nine Ball. But I would have to strip the protector of my play field. I would need to trace it out on a fresh sheet of plastic. I make my cuts close and it is my opinion that no two play fields are the same so what fits mine might not fit yours without some extra trimming work on your part. And I am thinking you would probably have to trim it to fit anyway.

And the other thing is swarf. When using a Dremel Tool to grind away excess material it leaves fuzzies on the edges. There is no way I can get rid of the fuzzies 100%. So what happens as you lay the protector down and start playing all of these fuzzies start flaking off and get under the play field and after a fews plays you have to remove the protector and wipe all of the fuzzies off and then replace the protector.

I got a few games on with the new protector and already I see I will need to remove the protector and clean everything down again. I have swarf fuzzies already---and no matter how much you sweep, brush, air blow, no matter how much you clean beforehand there is always some small piece of crap that comes from who-knows-where and gets under the protector.

With the work that is involved, especially since I am guessing you will still need to do some trimming work, I would much rather see you spend you money on a few tools and supplies you would need then I could give you instructions on how to make your own. If you have an iPhone we could even do the teaching on Facetime. It would give you a better understanding and you would appreciate it more.

If you are slightly more than halfway handy with a screwdriver, I could teach you how to make one. I don't mind teaching and teaching comes for free. But if I cut one it would cost. And I have about 3 months work in front of me already.

#655 4 years ago
Quoted from Pingball:

That is my one wear spot, guessing it's a common one. Is there a stencil or decal out there for this?[quoted image]

You could be everybody's hero. Your play field looks good enough (to me) that Stu from CPR might could use it to make the art CPR would need to make repro Nine Ball play field. I sent Stu pics of my play field but it is too far gone for Stu to use.

But yours looks very nice.

#663 4 years ago
Quoted from Pingball:

They seem to do lots of classic Stern backglasses and plastics. Don't think I've seen a playfield by them yet. Are they interested/able to do them?

Yes. They would like to do a Nine Ball play field. As others are noting, they are doing some Stern play fields.

#664 4 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

I think I have a Files with the repro texte.... you will have to match your color and print your own decal! Let me have a look tonight

Yes. Please RK. I could use that.

1 week later
#674 4 years ago

Warm white with the GIs and color matching with the inserts. For the white inserts I like the natural white or cool whites.

#690 4 years ago
Quoted from Barakawins1:

Wow, 9 ball's are getting sucked up quick.. This is definitely the next Star Gazer / Quicksilver in price.

Are you still trying to sell your for $6K?

I hope you are right, tough. It will make me feel better when I get to the point of restoring mine.

#692 4 years ago
Quoted from megadeth2600:

When it comes to classic Sterns, Nine Ball, Meteor, and Seawitch are the must-owns . Those three games are frigging awesome.

Nine Ball is a must have for me. I have never had chance to play Meteor so I cannot pass judgement.

For me, the must owns are Big Game, Catacomb, and Nine Ball. These 3 are my keepers, and as much as I like my Seawitch, it would not make the cut if / when the time comes for me to downsize.

#697 4 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

You accidentally got Catacomb in the same sentence as NB and Big Game. Catacomb is a pointless piece of crap. It’s right up there with Viper. Yawn.

That's because you don't know how to play it. It is a little tougher than Seawitch.

#698 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Did you vote in this poll?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/catacomb-vs-big-game
I haven't played much catacomb, but -- I just can't stand bagatelles holding up my pinball game...

If you take the bagatelle out, you would not even be able to play the game. If you played better you would not need the bagatelle as much. There is a lot of chance in the bagatelle but there is also some skill involved that takes a bit to learn. To me, it is the solid state version of video mode.

Plus, when compared to my other pins with spinners, while those spinners on the others are safe shots, the Catacomb spinner can be deadly and send you SDTM in a heartbeat.

I predict that if you stood behind one for couple of hours that you would change your mind.

#705 4 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

cottonm4
If you can send thrillhouse your template, he can laser cut a clean one AND make it available to everyone.
https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/product/playshield-playfield-protector

Which template you are you speaking of? The Star Gazer back box template you gave to me?

Or my Nine Ball? I don't have a template. I do have the protector that I hand cut but it is installed. I can take it off without easily enough and make another to ship, but I would need to talk to Thrillhouse to see if my cuts would even work for him. I'll send him a PM

#708 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

Its been awhile since I've posted in the Nine Ball Thread.
I won't say much about one game being better than another. . . but I will say I have yet to tire of playing Nine Ball after a couple years of ownership. It gets played more than the Williams IJ and Dirty Harry on either side of it. It must be the spinner! [quoted image]

No. I think it is because you are in love with and can't stop looking at that play field you restored into beautiful condition.

#712 4 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Yes. I can spell it out for you.
All of them have at least one thing that I can't really stand.
I will refer to these as "gimmicks":
Viper - that cannon mech thing that you fire
Freefall - freefall mech for balls
Orbitor 1 - playfield that isn't flat
Catacomb - a random bagatelle that is essential to scoring big points in the game
Star Gazer - rollovers inside slings - yes the timed spinner value/drop completion rule is cool but not cool enough for me to own it.
These are less gimmicky but the layouts make no sense to me:
Quicksilver - why is there a huge drop target assembly blocking half the playfield?
Seawitch - debatable but those right and left loops are not designed properly
Iron Maiden - spinner rules that get it up to 6K per spin are fun but what in the hell is the point of this gigantic upper/lower playfield with skill shot taking up half the upper? It plays a bit like flight 2000 but seems overly complicated, bonus ball feature, 3 different bonus multipliers, 3 ball multiball, ect.
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/iron-maiden/stories/iron-maiden-rules-and-play
Now, the artwork is amazing on a lot of these games. But I'm a pinball player, not an art collector.
It's just personal preference. You can choose to like them, I am listing some of the reasons that I don't.
Besides, this is "Nine Ball Club" not "Classic Stern Club".

OK. Fair enough.

2 weeks later
#718 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

is there a lower playfield overlay available? picked up a project and there is some wear around the nine ball.

not yet, woody. I am getting in process my homemade one to thrillhouse so he can machine cut them. It will be a little bit.

So, you were able to pick up the one you bought. Good Stuff.

#722 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Mine was missing the lockdown bar, are these bars classic stern specific? or can I use one off a bally or something.

You would have to also use a Bally receiver which will attach the the cob OK. But yes, the classic Stern bars/receivers are specific. What's more is that Stern carried over the Chicago Coin ball and socket style lock bars which are not interchangeable with your Nine Ball.

2 months later
#728 3 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Here are a few pictures.
Can anyone suggest where to buy a couple of replacement drop targets along with the correct jet bumper cap? Also, any suggestions on how to clean up the playfield without taking off too much paint.
Is this an overlay, hardtop/CPR future playfield or a touch up candidate?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

CPR would not consider your play field a candidate. Mirco might. You would have to "talk" with Mirco.

Pinball Resource has your pop cap, but it does not have the lines around the edges hot stamped on.

http://www.pbresource.com/pfbumper.htm

Screen Shot 2020-06-15 at 1.30.44 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-06-15 at 1.30.44 PM (resized).png

PBR also has the drop targets you need.

http://www.pbresource.com/pfdroptar.htm

Or you can get some real nice vinyl blue and red replacement stars from Tractor Doc and renew your targets.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1169-doc-s-pinball-shop/02155-vinyl-star-decals-for-drop-targets-blue-and-red-stars

Some one else can tell you how to clean up the play field.

#731 3 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

if you feel like spending some extra money, you can get an original...
ebay.com link » Stern Nine Ball Playfield Plastics 10 Items

$200.00 for a used set of NB plastics? That guy is FKing nuts.

#733 3 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Will a meteor lockdown bar work? I have a spare.

Stern used 2 styles of lockdown bars and receivers. Any MPU-200 pin, starting with Meteor use the later style slotted lockdown bar. It will work.

1 week later
#738 3 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I would like to touch up a couple of small areas on our cabinet. Can anyone suggest what shade of orange and blue would likely be the best match? Any other suggestions on how best to proceed would be welcomed.[quoted image][quoted image]

Go to Lowes or Home Depot, or any shop that mixes paint. Avail yourself to the paint chip shelf and grab several paint chips to take home and match against the paint on your cab. Take the color chip that matches the best and go back to the store. Lowes and, I think, Home Depot will mix you up a sample size of paint for about $3-$4.

If you have access to both stores, pick up some color chips from each as both have some of their own colors.

1 week later
#744 3 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I have a cpr back glass and I would like to change out the backbox led’s. I’m averse to playfield led’s at this point.
Do any of you folks have suggestions for backlighting the glass?

Well, you don't like LEDs so I guess you go back to incandescents.

These are still LEDs but you can light up a back glass real nice with just a few of these Matrix light strips.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips

Do go all funky with a bunch of hosed up colors. Just get some cool whites and call it a day.

#746 3 years ago

Get yourself some of the long strips maybe 3 or 4, and some of the short ones. You will have to experiment for best placement. You'll figure it out.

4 weeks later
#773 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Is there repro of the dead pop cap? Mine is really on its last leg...

You can buy the cap. There are just no repros with the Nine Ball text. You can buy almost any color you want.

They are called "slant tops". PBR has a lot of them. If you can't get a blank, you will have to sand all of the ink of and redo. I have been working on a deal but have not finished it yet.

http://www.pbresource.com/pfbumper.htm

Screen Shot 2020-07-30 at 2.54.31 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-07-30 at 2.54.31 AM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2020-07-30 at 2.55.10 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-07-30 at 2.55.10 AM (resized).png

Screen Shot 2020-07-30 at 2.55.39 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-07-30 at 2.55.39 AM (resized).png

#778 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

yeah i am surprised there is no decal?

$80 each? whoaaa there is a market there

Looks like I better get back to work own that decal

#780 3 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

pretty sure i have the file if you want to have it

Please. I would like to have that. Thanks.

1 week later
#790 3 years ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I'll check tomorrow if they are hot stamped or if they come with a sticker--I want to say they come with a sticker.

What have you found out?

#792 3 years ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I haven't been to my house with that pin in it...I do need to get over there though.
I need to finish up another project and need to get there with my volt meter...can't find it.

I just ordered a blank blue cap from PBR this morning. Either I will make a decal or make a silk screen.

1 month later
#797 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Anyone got a spare drop target mech for the two 4 drop mechs?

There are no 4-drop assemblies on Nine Ball. There are 2 3-drop assemblies on Nine Ball. However, there one 8-drop Nine Ball drop assembly.

#799 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

and i don't know if there is such a thing as a spare 8-drop assembly out there!

One sold on Ebay the other day and I missed it.

#801 3 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I saw that along with a few other parts from a parted Nine Ball. That part didn’t last long, did it?

That was a real nice NB play field that sold, as well.

#804 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

sorry I meant the 8 drop. My game keeps having an issue where the drop is lowered but the game isn’t detecting it - I’ve tried a lot to fix it as has another tech but we keep having this issue.

Sounds like a switch, connector, or wiring problem, to me.

3 weeks later
#819 3 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

CPR has been looking for a nos of very high quality Nine Ball playfield for two years now. If someone can send them their playfield they can start producing.
After Mirco tried to keep crispin Quicksilver playfield I don’t think many people will be willing to ship him their playfield.

Is every bodies Nine Ball play field washed out? I know mine is and sure could use a replacement.

1 month later
#832 3 years ago
Quoted from Hyperion:

Hey joining the club for the nominal price $100
[quoted image]

Deal of the Century. You are fixing to have a whole lot of fun. You just don't know how much fun, yet.

#834 3 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

So I can finally announce that almost 5 months ago I disassembled my Nine Ball and sent the playfield and plastics off to Mirco Playfield Reproductions here in Germany.
Mirco painstakingly reproduced the playfield AND plastics which can now be found on their website for purchase.
I was happy to help out the pinball community and I'm glad you all will now be able to restore your machines to their former glory.
I am now as excited as you all are...can't wait to get my own playfield and get my game back together after months of being in pieces! I hope I remember what went where!
https://mircoplayfields.com/en/p/nine-ball-mirco-playfield-unbreakable-plastic-set-combo
Thanks to cottonm4 for reaching out to me about this opportunity many months ago. Pinsiders helping each other is what I love about the community.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks very nice, Duffy. I am so glad you responded to my PM. You very easy could have blown me off.

I saw where you were bringing that Nine Ball home and saw your address was Germany. I just glad that I sent a PM you.

Screen Shot 2020-12-07 at 9.15.42 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-12-07 at 9.15.42 AM (resized).png

And now, I and we, can all restore our Nine Ball pins.

2 weeks later
#841 3 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Currently about 90% finished on the playfield bottom side reassembly. I have a broken rollover-type red plastic piece which I cannot find a part number anywhere for. Does anyone have a part number or know where I can find one? It's the two-piece red pastic piece that the ball presses down on when in the lock.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Steve at Pinball Resourse has both the base plate and the arm.

http://www.pbresource.com/rollobut.htm

These are actually for a Gottlieb pins. The holes are a little bit different You will need to fill your 3 attachment holes with some dowel rod and redrill to match your new part. I'm not positive but I think the arms will interchange.

The part is .$1.35. Shipping to Germany? Not cheap.

Screen Shot 2020-12-24 at 4.47.28 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-12-24 at 4.47.28 PM (resized).png

1 month later
#854 3 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

1. When the ball is dropped into the shooter lane, I somehow score 3,000 points for nothing. I can't find any switches closed anywhere.

I'm putting on my Joe Shadetree hat and go out on a limb here. I have/had a similar problem on my Nine Ball. I believe it is a diode problem. I replaced all my diodes ( I thought) but I still had the problem of isolating which one so I folded the pin up and will deal with it when I get my new Mirco NB play field.

( I had a diode go bad on my Big Game. Fortunately, I was able to isolate the sound for which switch was having problems and was able to fix the problem ).

I also have a friend with a NB and he has the same problem. I have tried cutting one wire to each switch one-a- a- time and that does not work very well. So, here is what I am going to do to try and isolate the problem.

This is the switch matrix for Nine Ball. You have 5 wires that you need to get familiar with. They are white/red, Brown/white, white/blue, white/yellow and yellow/red. They are hi lighted in the green. Study this little bit. Let's look at the brown/white wire: The b/w wire powers the switches to both sling shots, all three pops, the switches for Cancer and Gemini, and the center spinner.

These 5 switch wires control all of your switches.

NB Switches (resized).jpegNB Switches (resized).jpeg

The one item that is not shown on this switch matrix is how the switches on the 8-place drop target are wired, but those switches have diodes, as well.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the connector where those 5 switch wires live. You can see the white/red on the left. The others are here, too.

IMG_5518 (resized).JPGIMG_5518 (resized).JPG

That connector lives on the upper right corner of the MPU. The blueprint location is A4-J2-MPU. J2 will be marked on your MPU. It is also marked as to how many connector pins are in the connector, it tells you which pin is #1 and there is an arrow that points to which pin gets the block out key.

IMG_5516 (resized).JPGIMG_5516 (resized).JPG
=========================================

What I am going to do when I get another chance at my friend's NB is this.

1) Remove the play field apron. All 3 balls have to loaded in the outhole chute for the game to fire up. It takes a magnet stick to remove them before you lift the play field, should you need to.

2) Put the back glass in a safe place.

3) Remove that connector on the MPU.

4) By using a very small screw driver, I am going to remove the red/white wire from the connector. And I will reconnect the connector to the MPU and fire up a game.

With the game fired up, hit the credit button and start a game. If the offending sound remains then you know the white/red circuit is not the offending circuit.

5) Turn the game off.

6) Replace the white/red wire in the connector.

7) Remove the next wire. The brown/white wire.

8 ) Repeat step #4 only now with the brown/white wire removed from the connector.

9) Keep repeating this procedure with each of those 5 wires. Once you fire up and credit a game and the offending sound is gone, you will now know which circuit you need to look at.

10) Let's say when the white/yellow wire is pulled from the connector the offending sound goes away.

On the white/yellow circuit there are the Aquarius Stand up target, the Capricorn stand up target, the right (R) drop target assembly and the (cntr) drop target assembly.

11) Do the drop targets first. Cut or desolder the w/y wire from the right drop assembly. ( Make sure you use a jumper wire to continue the voltage to the to other switches on the circuit. ). By cutting the w/y wire from the (cntr) drop assembly you have eliminated the 3 switches on the cntr drop assembly. If this makes the offending sound go away, you have isolated your problem to one of the 3 switches on the drop assembly. So, hook the w/y wire back up and remove one of the wires from one of the switches on the drop assembly. Say remove the white/orange wire from the right target on the cntr drop. If the sound still persists reconnect w/o wire and remove the brn wire on the left target.

You will need to do this for each wire on the w/y circuit until you cut the wire that makes the offending sound go away.

12) If none of the above works out, then you will need to disconnect that huge connector in the 8-place drop assembly and see if the offending sound is living in that drop assembly. Disconnect it and credit another game.

REMEMBER: ALL 3 balls have to loaded to credit a game.

I hope all of this helps you out.

#858 3 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

duffysarcade
Glad to be off assistance! I'm really glad you were able to sort the 8-bank problems, that plagued me for over a year!
Your game looks amazing, good luck getting it past the finish line!
Edit: one other suggestion re: the switch issue. There's 3 switches under the playfield on NB that use a 0.05uf ceramic cap (which can be substituted with a 0.047uf). The "dead" bumper at the top right, the switch for the gate for the U-turn, and the Advance Spinner to Max/7k points switch. If they're the original caps, I'd suggest changing them. For testing purposes, you can clip one leg of the cap from the switches and see if the problem goes away. Note there's also a cap on the tilt bob, but i don't think that one would be responsible for this issue.

Good info.

I forgot a cap can short out and cause probs, too. I had a cap short on the tilt bob on my Big Game and it just kept tilting and shutting down.

#861 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Good approach cottonm4. Taking it one step further... Instead of cutting row return lines once finding out the offending column, you similarly can pull J2 I0-I7 pins one at a time to get the right row. So, column and row will give you the answer.

That's a good idea. Actually, that is a great idea.

It might be a little cumbersome when you consider you may have 8 rows to deal with, but it saves solder work of cutting and resoldering the connections a possible 8 times. but what might work is to pull ALL of the row wires at the same time, credit a game, and start plugging each row wire until you plug in the "right" wire.

Can that be done? Can those switches be disabled and then reconnected hot? Or would you have to turn the pin off before you could make a connection?

Man, if you could plug the row wires back in while hot, all you need to do is find the errant column, unplug ALL row wires, crank up a game and start plugging row wires back in one at a time. And then Bingo.

** Just be sure to mark all of the wires before you start pulling multiples. **

Actually, you would not need to remove the row wires from the connector. Just make a jumper wire with a piece of connector scrap connector pin
( you know, the pins from the connectors you saved when you were installing new pins to your boards ) and then jump from the unplugged connector to the correct pin on the board. Then keep moving your jump wire from pin to pin. Find the errant column and you could do the rows in a couple of minutes.

So, can we hot plug the switches?

#867 3 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

cottonm4 emsrph crunch
I found that there are 5 total switches which can score 3,000 points and marked them on the attached diagram. Through some suggested methods, I have eliminated all options except the left lane lower switch. The phantom scoring doesn't happen every game or every ball, but randomly and always when the ball is first shot into to the shooter lane. So I have checked all diodes and caps for the 4 switches in that row (A2J4-15) and can't find anything yet. Still hunting. I do notice that 2 of those switches have small caps, and 2 of them have diodes soldered in.
[quoted image]

I need to apologize. I put up a switch matrix for Star Gazer as that is what I am currently working on. It is a great Homer Simpson moment. I could cop a plea that the principle is the same, but I a very sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

#870 3 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I think the caps would be beneficial where a quick switch actuation might not be registered by the the MPU...so prob the upper left horseshoe rollunder gate, the lower left rollover switch, and both outlane switches. And then you are right...a diode on the drop target.
And like you said...the diagram shows a diode is required at every switch in the matrix, and no mention of caps.
So what does everyone else have on their left lane lower switch? Diode? Cap? Both?

I can't answer your question but find it interesting that my Star Gazer matrix up above shows that both slings have caps but on the nine Ball matrix no caps are being called for.

Stange. I need to pull out all my Stern manuals and look at this and compare them all.

1 month later
#876 2 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Calling all you classic Stern experts....my Nine Ball isn't saving high scores.
Only ever shows "0 0 0 0".
I have removed the 5105 and installed an NVRAM. Jumpers seem to be set properly. Any ideas? Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You might try that white reset button just inside the coin door and zero everything out as you cycle thru the options. That got rid of a couple of issue I had with mine.

#877 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I’m taking baby steps while I wait on a new playfield. I swapped out the metal Stern jet bumper base with a yellow plastic used on some Data East machines and I picked up a Flight 2000 jet bumper cap.
It makes for a much cleaner appearance and during the process I built in a molex connection for easy removal and adjustment of the entire assembly.
It might be wishful thinking but the jet bumper behaves much better and seems more active.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have not yet seen a yellow pop bumper housing. Blue, white, black, and gray. This is the first yellow one I have seen. It stands out.

I learned by accident that pop bumpers need to be adjusted differently than the rest of the switches. I like tight, close switch gaps on my flippers and slings. But it is the wrong thing to do on a pop bumper switch. I tried closing the gap on a pop switch and saw the fail on first hit of the skirt.

Tight gaps on pop switches cause the pop to shoot too soon and the ball gets cheated out of its normal travel distance. A pop gap needs to be set to close at the last possible moment.; This lets the ball get buried in the skirt/ring with a powerful rebound. Since you can remove it, you have the enjoyment of adjusting your pop switches as a bench job and makes it easy to get your pop spoon centered on the skirt pointer.

You probably did all of that without really thinking about it. And it all fell into position.

#881 2 years ago
Quoted from metallik:

On a game like NB with exposed pops, I agree with you. On modern games with bumper nests that the ball usually dribbles into, such adjustments will usually lead to dead bumpers and the ball just rolling out of the next un-popped. With nests, it's best to make the switches as close as possible so the pops trigger easily. The pops don't need as much oomph since it's likely to just hit a neighboring pop or a post.

That makes sense.

1 month later
#890 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

cottonm4 maybe able to help? I couldn't find it in the Stern parts catalog either...

Sorry. I cannot help you on that. I could probably make one with some angle from a metal shop and a cut-off wheel, but you are talking a lot of hours.

1 month later
#903 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

They're great. Just upgrade your light board and buy a barakandi
https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-stern-ldb.html

What he said.

Quoted from Boise_D:

I'm not sure how/where to solder resistors to the large lamp boards to stop flickering. Has anyone tried these? https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-nine-ball-complete-set-of-boards-to-replace-metal-panel-sockets

Those 555 lamp boards are great and eliminate pesky bulb sockets in that cluster. But you need that LED lamp board that Lawman linked to stop LEDs flickering.

2 weeks later
#909 2 years ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

.this is my first classic Stern

You picked a good one.

2 weeks later
#911 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

So.....I may be crazy, but I'm seriously looking into scratch building a Nine Ball.
Playfields and back glasses are available, I have a Bally/Stern transformer, I can build a cabinet, I have a set of wire guides from a parted out game, I can get a plastic set, I have Cliffy's spinner bracket. I just missed an eBay auction for a Dracula apron, but I'm guessing there will be other classic Stern aprons that will come up.
So the tough parts are the large drop target bank, the single drop target bracket, the actual single drop target itself, the game-specific spinner, and of course the wiring harness.
I'm assuming that the wiring harness is going to become available because it seems to me that there's *no way* I am the only person inclined to try this. I'm told that the single drop target may not be so hard to find. I'm told that the spinner can be modified if you fit it out with your own wire? And the big single drop target could at least in theory be 3D printed. I realize that all of that is a lot easier to say than it is to implement, but it at least seems conceivable.
That leaves the regular drop bank and the 9 bank, plus the reset coils and a way to mount them.
Does anybody have thoughts on how to go about this? None of these parts are especially complicated, and as a non-purist, I would be totally open to replacing them with some alternative part or something cobbled together, provided it works properly.
Seeing what this 40+ year old machine is selling for, I personally would rather buy all this stuff and build myself a brand new cabinet than purchase a machine at high expense that, to me anyway, would probably just end up being a full blown restoration anyway.
Is this madness?

One man has been making the wire harnesses. I would make sure that I can buy a NB harness, or build one myself, before I spent much effort in a scratch build pin.

#914 2 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Yes he’s talking about third coast. He’s saying that third coast hasn’t announced any plans to make nine Ball harnesses, and you should check with him to see if he’s willing to make them before gathering all of the other items for a build.

Yes. I suppose someone could start accumulating parts to build a NB and if a harness does not happen, someone who can build their own harness might buy you out.

#915 2 years ago

No. it is determination. 4 years ago I decided I was going to build 2 Star Gazers and 2 Quicksilvers. All there was was John Greatwich with his Star Gazer play field and his Star Gazer back glass. There were no CPR Star Gazer plastics. There were no Mirco Repro QS play fields.

I started loading up on parts from Ebay. And eventually, parts, like SG plastics, came available. I also bought up loads of old wire harnesses from Ebay as a source of wiring. And then Shawn came along.

So, what you are thinking about doing is not madness. If you want to do it bad enough, you can make it happen. Give me a source of AWG wire with the color coded wire and I would not hesitate to build my own harness from scratch if that is what it took.

But with all I have done with my restoration work, Shawn at Third Coast is the shop that saved me the most work.

I think your idea is sound. Chase the parts you need. And gamble something will work out with the wire harnesses. but know going in that you are gambling.

#920 2 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

When i made my srcatch built stargazer, there is no harness for it, so I built one myself... with the schematic, it's not so hard
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-stargazer-crazy-project/page/3#post-2360856

Redketchup, you were my inspiration to take on building a Star Gazer.

1 week later
#924 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

Can a fellow owner tell me if you have the same wires in the same positions on your power supply board?
I might have the wires on J1 in slots 1 & 8 reversed, and I’m not sure if that makes a difference.
I’m trying to sort out a locked on MPU led. Power supply test point voltages are within spec.
[quoted image]

J1-pin 1 is red GI power. Pin 8 is white GI return.

You are wired correctly

3 weeks later
#929 2 years ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

reposting...
Hey pinball people,
I'm trying to get the large bank of drop targets on Nine Ball to work great again. The reset arms or links have a small angle or finger that goes through the drop target plastic and closes the switch. I've seen several pictures of other people's games, and they have those too. But, I can't find a reference to them anywhere. Marco shows the correct part as 1A-491, which does not have a finger/angle on the end. Or, there is a Bally part with a much larger angle/finger, #P-1973-418.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/1A-491
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/P-1973-418
The larger Bally ones won't allow the target to go high enough to reset (catch the ledge). The ones with no angle look like they don't poke through enough to close the switch.
Does anyone who has worked on these have any insight? I think it's interesting that I've seen many, including mine, where the reset link has a smaller sized angle, but I haven't found that yet in any parts manuals.

I don't have my Nine Ball drop target assembly handy to have a better look. Is there any way you can put up some pics of your NB drop assembly so we can see what you are taking about?

3 weeks later
#938 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:Can anyone suggest a good match for the orange on the cabinet? I am planning on repainting the front part of the head.
In addition to the outer edges being rough, someone painted over the front edge of the trim boards with black and I want to get it back to all orange.
I’ve started to sand it down and fortunately the rest of the head looks very presentable.
Ideally there is a good primer + paint option in a rattle can.
[quoted image]

Head to Home Depot, or Lowes, or Walmart and grab a few color chips form the paint dept. If you can get them to tell you what colors they use to mox a color, you can take that to an automotive supply place and have some custom cans of paint mix up, either in a custom mix in a rattle can ($20.00 buck a can around here) or in quart can if you have the painting equipment.

Quoted from TheLaw:

Rattle can rustoleum orange is a perfect match.

Or you can take the color chips over to the rattle can dept. and start matching the lids on the rattle cans.

#939 2 years ago
Quoted from gonzo73:

Sorry if asked before, in several photos on IPDB they show Black Painted Cabs.
Were these only prototypes?
I've only seen 4 Nine Balls in the wild, all orange.

Look carefully at that black cab. You can see orange bordering 3 sides of the play field. If you look carefully, you can see some of the original blues and orange to the left of the coin door.

I think someone just painted the border around the back glass black.

Overall_view (resized).jpgOverall_view (resized).jpg

NBs are orange, blue, and some red accents.

#943 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Not sure if you also noticed the playfield picture of that machine had green 1 & 9 balls in the bonus area instead of yellow and the left side drop targets are blue though they likely aren't original.
[quoted image]

I did not notice the green on the 1 and 9 ball. After learning what I learned in buying a weirded out (sun bleached ) Big Game back glass I wonder if it a possibility that the yellow color faded and turned to green. Strange.

The blue drops look kind of cool.

I also see that his spinner is sitting upside down and needs adjustment.

#946 2 years ago

I know that that is a Nine Ball spinner

1 week later
#953 2 years ago
Quoted from gonzo73:

Captain..... we got a problem!
Ideas? I bet no one repros these targets.
Hope I'm wrong.
[quoted image]

Quoted from bluespin:

This is the Pinsider that makes repro faces for Williams pins but they look square in shape. You need a rectangular shape. Try calling Pinball Resource as he has items not listed on his site.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1167-gameroom-mods/04551-bally-williams-reproduction-pinball-parts

Good suggestion but PBR is out of stock. A phone call would not hurt, though. Email might be better; Steve gets a little testy when you ask about something that his website says is OOS.

I could make you a replacement target from clear polycarbonate. It will never break. But it would be clear and I would have to paint it red on the backside. I am not an artist do I can't get the white ring on for you though. You would also have to remove your broken target and clamp this one on and drill your own rivet holes and lock them into position.

If rivets will not work for you, you can get some #4 machine screws, lock washers, and nuts and screw it on.

I have a piece of .100 clear poly in stock. I can manually cut you one and paint the back side for $20.00. + postage. it will not look original and it will not look machine made but it will look nice.

PM if interested.

#956 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I have a Pinball EM parts game that has 5 of those targets in it. And the assembly to go with them!
[quoted image]

I'd like to hear the rest of this story.

#958 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

It uses 5 of those same single drop mechs with the wide target. What’s the story?

What is the EM pin that has 5 Nine Ball drop target assembles?

#962 2 years ago

The Nine Ball target measures 1.5 inches wide.

#969 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Someone with cad skills could laser cut a few sets out of red plastic for this target.

I know acrylic sheet comes in all colors of the rainbow but acrylic cracks/shatters under impact.

Polycarbonate (Lexan) does not break but only comes in clear, AFAIK.

I don't know much about PETG other than how it is used for play field plastics. Whatever he had up above that broke is not a good testament for what Stern used.

I"m thinking that maybe some .080/.100" T-6 aluminum, cut to size, painted red, and covered with some mylar might be the way to go.

#971 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

It would require riveting but doable

A #4 machine screw might work for anyone who does not know how to drive a rivet.

#976 2 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

anyone in the hobby remake plastic targets like this? doesn't sound like it is very easy but we have people remaking ramps so...

It would not be hard to make a replacement target. Making one in red could be the challenge. Getting the right material will also be a challenge. As far as making them, it would not be hard other than making the white ring on the face.

This is a piece of crap material for a demo.

IMG_7790 (resized).JPGIMG_7790 (resized).JPG

4 cuts on the band saw and you have a target.

IMG_7791 (resized).JPGIMG_7791 (resized).JPG

Why doesn't someone make these? Looks like Stern Pinball and Stern Nine Ball are the only pins that would need these. It does not look much demand.

#984 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I believe Formost Plastics has the molds to the two styles of target faces.

Formost might set up for an order of...say....5000.

#985 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

The ones on Grand Prix (and others like Triple Action, not to be confused with Triple Strike) are not as wide.
Stampede/Rawhide does not have drops, but does have some custom wider targets that look like they should be drops.

So far, since you own a Stern Pinbal with some of these drop targets, it looks like you are everybody's best friend for anyone who needs one of these targets

Unless Bluespin comes thru.

#988 2 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Have more faith in me Craig!

I'll think about it. Let me see you walk on water

#1001 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

es, seperate. No idea why

I'll take a stab for the two pieces.

1) The small rectangle allow for less material waste. A sheet of targets could be cut and a sheet of the "stems" could be cut easy enough.

2) And the stem is riveted on so the bottom edge of the target does not catch on the edge of the cutout.

#1007 2 years ago

This is the 2nd Nine Ball cabinet I have worked on. On both cabs, at the bottom, a bevel has been cut all of the way around. All of my other Sterns have the standard sharp corners on the bottom.

What does everybody else's Nine Ball cab look like on the bottom? Does yours also have a beveled corner on the bottom?

Just curious.

Thanks..

IMG_7808 (resized).jpgIMG_7808 (resized).jpg

#1015 2 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:So far, since you own a Stern Pinbal with some of these drop targets, it looks like you are everybody's best friend for anyone who needs one of these targets
Unless Bluespin comes thru.

Quoted from bluespin:

Have more faith in me Craig!

Quoted from cottonm4:

I'll think about it. Let me see you walk on water

Quoted from bluespin:

My source no longer has the nos stand up targets.

Damn. I thought I was going to see someone walk on water

1 week later
#1037 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

So, I’m gradually collecting parts for my eventual NB scratch build. One thing I can’t turn up are the metal ball guides, but another Pinsider can make repros, provided he has good working photos to help him. Does anybody on here have partial teardown pics showing the ball guides still on the playfield?

I have my populated play field leaning against the wall. I can some pics if this is what you are looking for.

If interested, send me a PM with your email address and I will fix you up.

3 weeks later
#1060 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Received today. The digital print and colors look great and all the cutouts are aligned well enough. But I noticed that every insert has a scuffed pattern (all in the same direction) under the clear. Is this normal?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mirco was having all of those problems with the Jersey Jack play fields chipping and pooling. So he changed his sanding methods to a coarser grit of sanding media. The result is all of those clear Stern inserts are now cloudy. The scuffed pattern is the sanding marks.

It is another one of those things where the repro is not quite like what Stern put out.

EDIT: I found out about this because I sent my early QS play field back to have the keylines screened on. Apparently, he sanded the play field bare to do a re-screen and all my clear inserts were cloudy. I asked and he pretty much told me this is the way it will be going forward.

1 week later
#1063 2 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I've begun to have more and more game lockups and crashes. Looking for advice from the club on where to start. Sometimes when turning the machine on I get a loud solid tone and it doesn't boot, then yesterday while filming a video for my YT channel, the game crashed and rebooted during the end of ball point tally.

I recapped the power supply last year when I did the playfield swap. Seems like it has good power. I'm reading about a possibly bad C16 cap? Or U14 IC? Thanks for any help.

Someone knows this stuff and will come along to help you.

I just want to re-introduce you as the guy who sent his Nine Ball play field to Mirco so that we all can now have a nice repro Nine Ball play field.

#1067 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Anyone asked Cliffy about making a protector like he did with the QS saucer? I'd feel a hell of a lot better putting a protector on than trying to chamfer the hole. I haven't ordered a Nine Ball playfield quite yet, saving up for one currently.

Make your own protector for the saucer hole.

All you need a piece of cheap piece of plastic.

If you have a daughter, get her a Barbie doll just because you love her. But keep the box as a useful tool.

IMG_8379 (resized).jpgIMG_8379 (resized).jpg
IMG_8376 (resized).jpgIMG_8376 (resized).jpg
IMG_8374 (resized).jpgIMG_8374 (resized).jpg

But for less money, get a one time cheap cooking pan with a plastic top. $4.00.

IMG_8380 (resized).jpgIMG_8380 (resized).jpg

IMG_8381 (resized).jpgIMG_8381 (resized).jpg

I'll spare you a lot of details, but cut and trim the plastic to fit the shooter lane where the saucer is at.

This is just a slop cut with a piece of paper to show you how you want to cut the plastic. Locate it to 3 post screws. Using your Dremel Tool sanding drum, sand excess plastic so you get to the edge of the saucer hole.

IMG_8403 (resized).jpgIMG_8403 (resized).jpg

With this piece of clear plastic, you have protected your saucer hole and have added a layer of protection in this high wear area, even if you do a repro play field coated with clear poly.

IMG_8395 (resized).jpgIMG_8395 (resized).jpg

You can see the orange tape outline.

IMG_8400 (resized).jpgIMG_8400 (resized).jpg

After you have opened up the plastic to match the hole in the play field, then make a small strip plastic to roll up and fit inside the hole. This completely protects the saucer hole. To install this strip of plastic get some double-back tape and roll it into the hole. Trim to fit.

IMG_8405 (resized).JPGIMG_8405 (resized).JPG

Caveat: I have not tried this myself, yet and will not be able to until I get my new Nine Ball play field wired up. But I think it will work.

And: If you don't want to use the cheap plastic, then get a small sheet of Lexan for $7.50.

ebay.com link: itm

#1069 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Jokes aside, great idea. I'd love a nice rounded metal cliffy if he made them but looking at his designs, I don't see any circular ones with an L-bend in them to protect the lip. The QS protector is top surface only. I'd shy away from a carbon fiber one too.

I have a Cliffy protector for my QS, too. Before I got the Cliffy, I tried making one of thin Lexan that would bend down and "follow" the chamfered lip. It did not work. I think the Cliffy will work OK; The top edge of the saucer is protected. But just the same, when I get to me QS play field I am going to place a piece of mylar on the chamfered area of the lip. The between the Cliffy and the mylar, I think th e QS play field will be OK.

And for that matter, one might be able to just place a piece of mylar at the saucer hole on Nine Ball and get the protection needed for that hole.

1 month later
#1072 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I decided I’d try to improve the look of the drop targets, so made new decals for them.
Once the bank gets rebuilt, I’ll see how it looks in the game.
[quoted image]

I;d like to see those decals in the game. They look cool .

#1075 2 years ago

So where did you get those decals?

3 months later
#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

If you do get the f2k bank it's a full bank that would need you just have to populate the drop coils.

I have not pulled the drop assembly from my F2K to check it out.

Does it have the bar that the memory coils attach to?

1 week later
#1101 1 year ago
Quoted from Zenomorp:

Nine Ball has been added to the lineup at The Arcade in Wichita. If you're in the Wichita area, stop by and say hello.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have not been to your shop since Covid started. But you do have a nice arcade of well maintained pins.

#1102 1 year ago
Quoted from Zenomorp:

So this popped up across town from me. A surgeon was moving to KC and didn't want to bring it with him. He said come get it for $500. I couldn't get there fast enough. Had numerous issues but overall not bad. Some minor playfield wear and planking, but I got most of it touched up (the best I could). The MPU had issues that I didn't want to try and troubleshoot (laziness plus it's going to be on location), so I threw in an Alltek. Also had to repin the connectors. No big deal there. After all that, I got a full non-ghosting LED kit installed, new rubbers, all new drop targets (had a friend weld on the broken arm that was lying in the bottom of the cabinet for target #1), full playfield clean and wax, new balls, full cabinet touch up, full switch adjustments and testing, new Loop Value target face, new correct pop bumper cap, new flipper bats, full solder joint inspection/reflow on playfield and boards, new plastics kit, new spinner decals, new playfield brackets, new cabinet speaker, new drop target springs, new EOS switches, and full gameplay testing....it's at 100% and looking/working great! All told, I'm into this for right around $1000. Quite the deal. The only other early SS machine I have is a Bally Star Trek but for some reason, I had a hard time getting this one setup for replays and dip switch options. Finally got it figured out. That was the last step. Now it's ready to live again for a good long while...hopefully.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from slochar:

Good deal but too bad about the spinner.

In a pinch, anybody needing a Nine Ball spinner and cannot locate one, this might work as a "reasonable" substitute. The spinner would be a little but narrower and you might have to remove a small piece of the inner shooter lane rail and you would have to wire it up using the micro switch but I think it would work as a free floating switch and not require you to install a post in the middle of the play field.

https://www.pinballlife.com/complete-spinner-assembly-with-switch.html

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

3 weeks later
#1109 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Anyone have the part number for the trough microswitches? I clicked on every one at marco I could find and I dont think I see the right one.

Aren't they that same as the Cherry coin door switch with a different activating wire?

https://www.pinballlife.com/coin-door-switch.html

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

2 months later
#1121 1 year ago
Quoted from Deadlander:

Looking to start my 9 ball restoration. Wondering if anyone has extra playfield and plastics set they don’t want. Have a signed NOS Willy Wanka playfield, Original MM and AFM playfields(both restorable) I’d be willing to offer as trade bait.
Regards,
Al

I have nice set of used plastics. I will also have a play field as I am going to install a new repro play field.

PM if you would like to see pics.

1 month later
#1126 1 year ago
Quoted from gonzo73:

Hey hey, if your interested Todd Tuckey at TNT took a tour of my friends Warehouse secret arcade here in SoCal, the arcade is our hang out club house, the video is the new california trip Vid.
You can see.my Nine ball I got from Banning and fixed up.
Jim let's me keep it at the arcade.... as I'm out of Room!
Sorry I dont know how to link the video, but it's on YouTube...

What is the name of the video?

To link the video, copy the characters in the search bar and paste them into the pinside page.

1 week later
#1132 1 year ago
Quoted from frunch:

Congrats!!! The rules may take a little while to fully "get" but it's well worth the journey, imo. Nine Ball might be my favorite pinball machine of all time, it's that much fun for me
Btw, if anyone else is looking to join the club I just noticed an ad for a Nine Ball here at pinside. $2500 for a project may not be great, but finding a Nine Ball at all seems like a feat unto itself...so the price may not sting so much given the rarity.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/142335

Quoted from jj44114:

It’s not so bad

It is $2500.00 of best offer. Maybe $2000.00 would get it.

#1134 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

It was $3500 earlier this week elsewhere.

motivated seller.

#1138 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

The recent sales on Pinside were $4500 and fully working with decent playfields. Typical wear in the ball rack but fully working. This one will need a lot of work.

I paid $1400.00 for mine 6 years ago. The cabinet was presentable. And the play field is in good condition but has some flames around a couple of inserts.

This one for sale looks rough. But I am going to restore my cabinet and install a Mirco play field. In some things, it is all relative. Nine Ball seems to bringing the money in restored condition. In today's pinball market, $2000.00 for this NB does not seem to be idiocy.

1 week later
#1145 1 year ago

Where do I get that ROM that is supposed to stop the multi-balls clogging up the left ball lock?

1 month later
#1164 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I love the colours but this seems a bit rubbish no?
[quoted image]

Quoted from slochar:

What the misalignment, the hole shape, or the artwork going into the lamp cutout?

Where CPR is losing it with this saucer is they are freaking out with how to locate the saucer hole.

00ca88b57ee91e78db583d2e803d3217938c3aea (resized).jpg00ca88b57ee91e78db583d2e803d3217938c3aea (resized).jpg

On the factory play field the hole is centered on its chute and part of the hole sits under the side rail.
All CPR needs to do is center the hole and don't worry about the side rail.

Even my Mirco play field got this one right.

IMG_1803 (resized).JPGIMG_1803 (resized).JPG

#1166 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

managed to snap the thousands bonus drop target - anyone know a source for a replacement?
[quoted image]

What did you snap? The red plastic target? PBR is stocked out of anything that would work.

I could make one of from clear polycarbonate easy enough. And then paint it red on the backside. It would not be exactly like factory, but it would work. And it would not break.

#1173 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Yes please - let me know how much.
Neil.

Would you have the ability to transfer drill the holes in your snapped target into a different piece? I can cut you a blank that you would need to drill the two mounting holes into. I can send it via U.S. Mail. No charge.

If I need to drill the holes, then $10.00 shipped.

you would need to get some rivets from Steve at PBR.

PM me your address and I will make you one up.

1 month later
#1180 1 year ago

I just stumbled onto this for sale ad for the Nine Ball drop target face. Maybe you have already seen it. But if you have not...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1167-gameroom-mods/07505-reproduction-target-face-stern-a-382-1

1 week later
#1184 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Hey gang-
I'm going through my basket case of a Nine Ball and starting to clean the playfield. What would ya'll recommend to clean a severely worn playfield - I don't want to pull up any more paint than necessary, but I would like it to clean up as much as possible. Tried to attach pictures, but pinside is throwing an error. I'll add some later.
Thanks for any insight.
Mike

When you get it cleaned up, you might consider a play field protector for it. To smooth out the inserts.

https://www.beehivepinball.com/product/pinball-playshield-protector

1 month later
#1196 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

10 amp fuse is feature lamps. It would not prevent you from starting a game. Looks like in pic there are 27 credits. Did you put both balls in the game? I think unless both balls are registering, the game will not start.
You can always go to switch test to confirm that both outhole switches are good and, also that the start button is registering as well. All 3 need to work for game to start.

I think you need all 3 balls loaded before it will start.

#1198 1 year ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I changed the 3 wires on j1 and fuse does not blow now. Coils are working. I have 3 balls in it and still won’t start a game.
[quoted image]

Check all 3 switches for continuity. No one has ever talked about a Cherry switch going bad, but pinball life sells them so it is worth a check.

#1213 1 year ago

I am in the process of getting ready to install the play field wiring on my Mirco Nine Ball play field. So, I am looking at the Stern manual to double check my wiring. I found something strange. It is out there for company screw ups. No one has mentioned this before. I cannot believe I am the first one to see this.

Prolog: The order of Stern's production was Flight 2000 followed by Nine Ball.
=================================================

Exhibit #1). This is the wiring callouts for the play field wiring. It has items I can reference and understand. The first 9 items are the wiring for the huge left hand drop target bonus lights. The 2nd 8 items are the wires for each of the 8 drop targets. This is all familiar to me.

If you look carefully at the top of the page you can see where it says Nine Ball ( with some of the text clipped off).

Nine Ball Plastic 3 (resized).jpegNine Ball Plastic 3 (resized).jpeg

Exhibit #2) This sheet, 12B-431S-128 is sheet #1 of 3.

With this page you can see it has Nine Ball typed in at the bottom. But this page is not Nine Ball wiring callouts. I'll spare the suspense. B-L-A-S-T-O-F-F is F2K stuff. This page is from the Flight 2000 manual.

This has to be a secretarial screw up. And it did not get caught before the Nine Ball manual went to print.

Great quality control: Further confirmation that Stern Electronics just slopped a lot of shit together and shipped it. Amazing. And who ever thought that 40 years later people would be building repro Nine Balls and actually look at the manual.

Conclusion: There is no correct Sheet 1 of 3 for Nine Ball. This trash F2K page is it.

Nine Ball Plastic 2 (resized).jpegNine Ball Plastic 2 (resized).jpeg

I hope this may help eliminate any confusion for anyone building a Nine Ball.

.

#1217 1 year ago

Well, Stern was consistent. As I am working to rewire my Nine Ball I stumble onto two wires are are not to blueprint.

LDA connector J-2

"Game Over" calls for an orange-green wire. My wire is Gray-White

"Tilt"............calls for a Gray-Blue................My wire is Gray-Black.

It is the little things that waste time. I have the means to install the correct color of wires. That will be a task for tomorrow.

Nine Ball Plastic 4 (resized).jpegNine Ball Plastic 4 (resized).jpeg

And then you have this:

There are 2 Blue-White wires

There are 2 Gray-Yellow wires

and

There are 2 White-Blue wires.

The wires are on different connectors so they can be figured out but if you are trying to physically trace a wire and if there are 2 of the same color combo you will be wasting more time trying to figure things out.

It is sloppy engineering. And sloppy manufacturing.

Nine Ball Plastic 5 (resized).jpegNine Ball Plastic 5 (resized).jpeg

#1219 1 year ago

Can someone with a Nine Ball help me out, please?

I am trying to verify two wires at the outlanes.

The manual shows the following:

1) left drop target 7000 points and the right outlane share the same wire. This drop/outlane combo calls for an Orange/Blue wire.

2) right drop target 7000 points and the left outlane share the same wire. This drop/outlane combo calls for a green wire.

Nine Ball Plastic 6 (resized).jpegNine Ball Plastic 6 (resized).jpeg

The 7000 points is easy to figure out.

IMG_2352 (resized).jpgIMG_2352 (resized).jpg

The outlanes are just a little confusing because they deal with collecting and resetting the loop value. And I cannot see how the 7000 points score relates to collecting loop score on ball exit. I also do not have any extra wire in my original harness that supports these two wires ( O-Blu and G) supplying power to two different points.

My assumption is that an outlane drain also collects the 7000 points, but I am not sure.

IMG_2350 (resized).jpgIMG_2350 (resized).jpg

IMG_2351 (resized).jpgIMG_2351 (resized).jpg

Thanks in advance

#1221 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

They are both just lamps that are driven by the larger 106 SCR on the lamp driver board, both lamps will be on when that feature is active. The outlanes aren't going to score 7k, the switches are different between the drop bank and the outlane. The outlane will collect and reset the loop value from the single drop lane (and the stock software even resets the drop in that situation.... fixed in the fixed software) when that lamp is on. The drops will score the 7k when that lamp is on.

Thank you.

but a question: Why are the wires criss crossed from left to right? does it make a difference?

#1231 1 year ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Before you sell it, please re-do the crimps in all three plugs on the rectifier board.
You shouldn’t have bare wire showing out of the connector and/or the crimp barely hanging on.
This will make the game more reliable down the road.
[quoted image]

Good catch.

2 months later
#1241 10 months ago
Quoted from ant_:

Looking for an original Nine Ball playfield.
Anyone have one leftover after a swapping in a repro?
I’ll be at Allentown later this week.

I sent you a PM. But I am not going to Allentown.

2 weeks later
#1246 10 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Warm white always...there isn't even a question

I'm a cool white guy

#1258 10 months ago
Quoted from Deadlander:

I’m using a melody lane cpu for my 9ball so would prefer a new set of roms.

Stern made a Memory Lane. That is an CPU/MPU-100 pin. Nine Ball is an CPU/MPU-200 pin and the MPU-100 will NOT interchange.

2 weeks later
#1262 9 months ago
Quoted from ibis:

Im having trouble locating a decal for this 9 Ball swap I am doing. I saw some people made a stencil with their Cricut. Are there any sources for that yellow decal with the red 'S'?

I have some clear decals I had made up. You would need to paint your own yellow.

See post #8794
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/176

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#1266 9 months ago
Quoted from ibis:

Came in the mail today! THANK YOU!!

You're welcome.

5 months later
#1282 4 months ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

My top left non-active pop bumper got smashed during the UK Open. It is not clear what parts I need to rebuild it. Has anyone got a list of what I need, please?
thanks,
Neil.

Meteor has a couple of dead pops, Nine Ball has one in the upper right, and I think Dracula has a dead pop.

Pinball Resource stocks these.

For Meteor and Dracula PBR has dead caps that are screened. For Nine Ball, you have to buy a blank blue unit. I don't know what size rubber ring installs on the dead pop body.

Screen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.10.19 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.10.19 AM (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.13.10 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.13.10 AM (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.13.50 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.13.50 AM (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.14.54 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.14.54 AM (resized).jpg

Screen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.15.11 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2023-11-17 at 9.15.11 AM (resized).jpg

1 month later
#1285 76 days ago

I have recently aquired the parts for build a 2nd Nine Ball. I thought I would put up some pics of the 8-position drop target for the NB builders who will be using the F2K drop assembly.

This is my OG Nine Ball drop assembly. Notice that position number 8 on the play field corresponds to the 4th position with regards to the coils. There are only 7 coils inside the assembly and position 8 does not have a coil. This position is filled with a spacer. There is a locking finger in this position but I don't know how it works since this is a dead position.

Also, this spacer is the same dimension as the coils, so if you cannot find a spacer you can use a coil and not hook it up to anything. You could also unwrap all the wire from the coil and just place an empty bobbin in this position.

( Please notice that the finger that is in position for the spacer on my assembly is broken and was repaired by having a nail welded into place. This is not my fix; It came this way. ).

IMG_4830 (resized).jpgIMG_4830 (resized).jpg

IMG_4832 (resized).jpgIMG_4832 (resized).jpg

Here is the other half of the assembly with 4 coils loaded.

IMG_4831 (resized).jpgIMG_4831 (resized).jpg

Front view of NB assembly

IMG_4836 (resized).jpgIMG_4836 (resized).jpg

backside view

All 8 switches are wired; This includes wiring for position 8 where there is spacer and no coil. I have not figured this one out yet. I'll study this when I finish my NB; Which should be in the next few days.
IMG_4827 (resized).jpgIMG_4827 (resized).jpg

And here is the F2K unit. It has 5 coils and no spacer. You will need to move one of the coils, plus add 2 more coils. You will also need to procure 3 more of the coil activating fingers and 3 more drop target switches. And then you have to rewire the coils and switches to NB configuration.

IMG_4837 (resized).jpgIMG_4837 (resized).jpg

IMG_4856 (resized).JPGIMG_4856 (resized).JPG

Notice also that the large coil has to be swapped to the other end.

IMG_4857 (resized).JPGIMG_4857 (resized).JPG

The wiring is well documented. It is pretty straight forward.

Solenoids wiring

Screen Shot 2024-01-02 at 6.31.47 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-01-02 at 6.31.47 PM (resized).jpg

Switches wiring.

Screen Shot 2024-01-02 at 6.33.44 PM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-01-02 at 6.33.44 PM (resized).jpg

You will need the other side of this 24 pin connector.

IMG_4859 (resized).JPGIMG_4859 (resized).JPG

NOTICE:
======

The wiring for the 8 switches is just like wiring any other string of switches, with the EXCEPTION that all 9 switch wires will terminate at this 24 pin connector

For example, you could have a switch wire start at one of the 3-position drop targets, then travel all the way down to one of the inlane or outlane switches and then travel back up to the 8-position drop assembly and terminate there. You will be terminating all 8 switch wires to the drop target. This can throw you off if you are building your own harness.

Good Luck to all Nine Ball builders.

#1291 73 days ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I had some time off in late Nov early Dec due to having had surgery so I decided to start yet another project with my time off so I set up my rotisserie aka kitchen counter and populate the bottom side of the playfield while watching MST3K. I figured installing the Wire Bot wiring harness would be a good "light duty" project. Working on the topside now so I thought I would take some pictures.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Your wiring looks very nice.

#1292 72 days ago
Quoted from jgreene:

The big stern drop banks are pretty rare, so I'm planning to use 2 4 bank drops instead. Should be a fun to mod them for the job.

Quoted from play_pinball:

Wanna trade a big F2K toaster bank for those 4-banks?

Quoted from jgreene:

so I'm planning to use 2 4 bank drops instead

If you have not taken play_pinball up on his very generous offer, I would urge you to take this deal. Don't pass GO. Don't collect $200.00. Just take the deal.
============================================================================================

I am not going to say that putting two 4-place drop assemblies together can't be done. But it will be done with difficulty. And expense.

1) The first option you might think of would be to just install two 4-place drops next to each other and go with that approach.
Here is a pic with two 3-place assemblies for illustration ( work with me on this ).

IMG_4905 (resized).jpgIMG_4905 (resized).jpg

You will need remove the lift coil that is sitting between the two assemblies and put it on the opposite outer end. OK. so you have moved the coil to the other end and you now have a lift coil at each end. With that problem solved, you now have another problem to deal with.

So, you have moved the coil out of the way, now you have to figure out what you are going to do with the two reset arms and rods that are going to collide with each other. You cannot modifiy the reset arms to allow the assemblies to come closer together.

Screen Shot 2024-01-06 at 8.53.33 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-01-06 at 8.53.33 AM (resized).jpg

The only way you can mod the reset arms would be to cut the ends off of each reset arm and splice them together as I did with two 3-position reset arms to make one 4-position reset arm.

Marco sells one style of reset arm for a 4-position assembly. Two of these could be spliced together to make one 8-position, but might take splicing together 3 of them for the correct length.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

Marco also sells the other style of reset arm in 3-position only option. I took two of this style of reset arm and spliced them together to make one 4-position reset arm. This can be done, but to make this style work for a Nine Ball reset arm, you would have to splice three of them together. Marco sells these for $11.00 each. So, you are look at $33.00 worth of lift arms.

Screen Shot 2024-01-06 at 9.23.20 AM (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2024-01-06 at 9.23.20 AM (resized).jpg

IMG_4682 (resized).jpgIMG_4682 (resized).jpg

Let's assume you have figured out how to get around these problems I am talking, then you have to make two memory coil mounting brackets. This could be done. It would take a piece of flat steel stock and some length of steel stock with a stiffening angle spot welded on ( it could be bonded together with epoxy, or drill some holes and screw the two pieces together). And then drill the holes to locate the memory coils.

IMG_4912 (resized).jpgIMG_4912 (resized).jpg

If you have gotten this far, then you still need to find 7 of those "fingers" that are actuated by the memory coils.
( Has anybody found a source for these yet?).
=======================================================================

IMG_4913 (resized).jpgIMG_4913 (resized).jpg

Next up is this. Let's assume you have figured out how to solve all of the problems I talked. Now you are ready to install your Frankenstein two 4-place assemblies onto your play field.

Here is your 1st problem.

Remember, you are installing two 4-place assemblies that you Frankensteined together.

Here is the mounting at one end.

IMG_4916 (resized).jpgIMG_4916 (resized).jpg

And the mounting at the other end.

IMG_4917 (resized).jpgIMG_4917 (resized).jpg

Where are you going to install the inner parts of your cobbled together assemblies without colliding into the lamps boards ( if you use them), or light bulbs if you don't?

IMG_4918 (resized).jpgIMG_4918 (resized).jpg

And last, you now have installed a coil at the other end of the Frankenstein assembly. You will need to deal with a feature light that will be in the way. And the coil bracket looks like it will clear the switch that is mounted right there, but it will be close.

IMG_4922 (resized).jpgIMG_4922 (resized).jpg

All right. Now that you understand that trying to mount two 4-position drop assemblies is a fool's errand, you decide you want to try and splice the two 4-position assemblies together to make one of the monster Nine Ball size assemblies. It could be done, but....

The two 4-position assemblies, when placed together are too short. You will need to hire a welder to splice your brackets together plus he will have to add some material to make up what is lacking when you attempt to slice the two assemblies together.

IMG_4931 (resized).JPGIMG_4931 (resized).JPG

IMG_4929 (resized).JPGIMG_4929 (resized).JPG

Just take the deal. It is a gift horse.
===========

Sorry for the complicated post but these claims have come up that two 4-position drop targets have been used. And I just don't see it happening until someone shows pictures of their cobbled together Nine Ball drop assembly.

#1296 71 days ago
Quoted from jgreene:

I've got a bunch of EM relay coils & that could be build up similar to the stern resets coil/armature design where a "finger" activates the drop the target.

I was wondering about that. If some EM coil fingers could be adapted for use. They are already notched so they can pivot. I am going to need to make some of these fingers for my next NB build.

3 weeks later
#1301 47 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Does anybody have an extra left sling plastic they could sell me?

I have a pair of reproduction sling plastics if you will consider repros. They are new. $10.00 plus the shipping. Would you like to see a picture?

#1309 46 days ago
Quoted from newovad:

Mirco playfield, new plastics, old plastic on top is much darker.
[quoted image]

The blue in Mirco's play field is a lighter shade of blue than the blue in my OG play field. I think the shade of blue Mirco used looks prettier.

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