Anybody have one for sale.. I would love to add one to my classic stern collection...
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Quoted from seshpilot:So I'm wanting to restore my Stern Nine Ball, which uses a ton of 7/8" inserts (all of which are cupping) but cannot find anyone who sells these. No they're not 1" or 3/4", but right in-between. Anyone have a stash of these or know where I could get some? ...
You just remove it, sand it with wetpaper on a flat surface and reinstall
Quoted from seshpilot:Thing is, there's so little to these inserts to begin with, I'd be scared of sanding those things down any further. Not the best quality of inserts compared to Williams at the time (starburst)
I did that on quicksilver and Iron Maiden and work like a charme, you don't need to sand a lot to remove the cupping. You have to be sure to be on a flat surface and making an 8 with the insert to be sure the sanding is equal all around
Quoted from bluespin:redketchup Congratulations on joining the club. The one at Pinfest had a rough playfield but played beautifully. It was nice meeting you and thanks again for helping load my pin in my SUV Saturday.
Thank’s bluespin! Was my pleasure.
I reserve the full treatment for that nineball... should be beautifull when finish... complete playfeild restoration! And yes she doesn’t look pretty, but play perfect.
Quoted from Whysnow:looks great!
how much do these cost and where do you order?
Ask john here on pinside @greatwichjohn, he is the guy who made it
Quoted from cottonm4:Keep putting up pics, please. I like to follow your work.
If you want the complete story!...
Insert reglue
64F63604-41A7-4FB5-B882-517A010DA34D (resized).jpeg70558EB6-B1CB-471F-8FB0-195755AB6939 (resized).jpeg8310F405-7E32-4BAD-8528-3BD5F04AC03C (resized).jpeg9539489E-4D6F-496E-8F9B-3508E3C9B72F (resized).jpegB2C5801C-CCE8-4ACC-96F9-C1D76B11FB3F (resized).jpegD3D2A05F-BB89-499B-AECD-7E1331CF865F (resized).jpegRub-on decal test fitting
1130D617-3793-4DD7-96E5-C3B339C5F3DD (resized).jpeg2FED54D7-730A-4E47-8267-F802CC13DF0D (resized).jpeg4F123AFC-66ED-455C-B2E2-67FB7C4E5CF5 (resized).jpeg5764B710-E72C-4059-BEB6-D260CACC27ED (resized).jpegA6299BDE-BC09-4FC0-B0A0-163E540DFEC7 (resized).jpegE700DAA0-BAE0-4A82-B2BB-8300FA7E7215 (resized).jpegQuoted from eh97ac:http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/ "Stern Electronics" button on the gauche and then the red links at the top.
i know that site... but there is nothing specific to nineball like switch assigment and self test display number
Quoted from bluespin:Pinball Pimp makes stencil kits for Nine Ball.
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=2755
Yeah, stencil is already order!
Quoted from eh97ac:You might have to use the Meteor or Seawitch cards and adjust them for Nine Ball unless a member can get you some scans
This is what i have done for my Iron maiden project... will look at it when i'm ready for that part
Quoted from frunch:I think he may be looking for the sheets that are stapled to the inside of the cab for quick reference. Perhaps I'm wrong though!
You are right trevor!
Quoted from gabegabegabe:Wow, looks amazing! are the parts all original? most of the 'fingers' that hold the drop targets up on mine are bent significantly.
Yes all the parts originals... a good cleaning, new drop target, coil wrap, ultrasonic cleaner...
Quoted from bluespin:Do you wrap the coil wraps around the existing coil? Are they preprinted with the part numbers?
Yes and yes... inkochnito have it in his web site.
Quoted from cottonm4:Don't tease me RK. Where do I buy those rub-ons at?
It’s a custom order... pricey, but woth every penny for me!
Spinner silkscreen, i alreday have the screen on hand, just have to do the silkscreen...spinner get a powdercoat first and the screenc after
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Progress... playfield harness remove and clean
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1 Drop target assembly done
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Playfield come back from clearcoat... not super happy with my blue color match, but should be fine when completely reassembled
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Quoted from DK:Mine has no target. Did they have extras?
yes they have a box with 10-15 target in it!
Quoted from TheLaw:First time poster first time Nine Ball owner
Picked up a not so shabby example I'm tearing down and freshening up right now.
Quick question I couldn't seem to find.
New drop targets from PBR, are they ready to go for a straight swap or do they need to be dealt with in any way?
I know with Meteor people like to weigh them down a bit, but don't that was just because they changed from tombstones to the other style, and I don't think Nine Ball ever used tombstones?
Thanks.
Straight swap!
Quoted from TheLaw:Better hurry up...Go Pro series cant shoot itself.
I did, i did!
4DCEFC31-55AA-4D98-A300-4BEBD019BE46 (resized).jpeg9B73CD53-16BC-41A9-ABA2-D521208CB1C2 (resized).jpegLittle question before i go back home tonight...
What the thickness of the MDF border around the backbox? I need to stop when back home tonight and can't take the mesurement myself right now
Quoted from cottonm4:It measures 5/8". Or 15.875 mm. This is from a Nine Ball back box I own.
I could not find that size in my stores and I do not have a planer so I went with 3/4". No one will ever know.
Merci!
Quoted from cottonm4:This is some of the best hammertone I have seen. I know it is going to be a Canadian brand that we cannot in the states (sigh).
Quoted from EalaDubhSidhe:Where would you find a passive bumper assembly in stock of the type used on Nine Ball and Meteor? I'm not having much luck with any parts supplier lists so far.
Pinball resource have the passive pop bumper cap, skirt and base
'Blank'
Slant Top
Deco Color: Yellow, White, Purple, Red, Green, or Blue
Misc Games
"Specify Color"
Deco Slant BLANK
$10.00
Signature
Part
I made a service trade with a good friend of mine... I did his Fathom playfield swap and he did my nine ball cabinet.... there is the orange paint... look pretty good!
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new bottom
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and the fathom swap!Photo 18-11-04 14 20 07 (resized).jpgPhoto 18-11-03 12 04 25 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Macdaddy1974:I have a mint Back Glass that i would sell
Interested... pm me with the detail
Quoted from cottonm4:I have been playing the daylights out of my Nine Ball since I recently got it running.
It is a righteous pin.
Definitely no slouch when it comes to short ball times; Ball 3? Already? it has only been 40 seconds.
I had a problem over on the left hand side of the play field so I did a mod.
Whenever the ball launched from the saucer and rolled down behind the drop targets it was being pinched between the ball guide along the rail and the rubber sitting behind the lower set of drop targets. The result is that most times the ball would come out from behind the rubber and drain SDTM. I don't know if this was by engineering design to pick your pockets or a manufacturing issue. And possibly it is only my NB that has this problem.
Here is a pic showing the tight fit of the ball along the rubber. At the bottom plastic post the ball was really pinched.
[quoted image]
I repositioned the bottom post and moved it inboard almost a complete hole. If you look carefully, you can see where I moved to hole close to the back of the drop target. You can also see the original hole that I plugged. The scale shows how the alignment of the bottom post is inboard of the other three posts.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
This pic shows the clearance I now have between the lower post and the ball.
[quoted image]
The result of making this mod is that now when the ball leaves the saucer it scoots down and launches over to the right hand flipper where you have a chance to do something more than just watch the ball drain SDTM. It is is even better because the ball likes to run up the flipper and up the ball guide and make a frustrating roll over into the outlane. I much prefer this action that you can play to as opposed to just watching the ball drain.
I still get a little pinching from the two middle posts but since I like the results of relocating the one hole I am going to relocate the two middle ones as well.
It is a tight fit in this area so as a precaution I shaved off a bit from the front of the post so there will be no interference with the back of the drop target.
What about a size down rubber ring in this area? the rubber will take less space...
Quoted from metallik:The problem isn't the rubber or the post, it's the fact the metal guide has bowed out from the siderail and constricts the lane.
I fixed mine by sticking a piece of mylar onto the metal, wrapping up and over the wall (pulling the metal against the wood), down the side and uder the PF for extra area to stick. Could also just drill and secure the metal wall with small countersunk screws outside of the ball path. No need to move posts, especially when that may affect drop target action.
You are right, we see it in the pic
Rebuilt start, new ground sheild, bracket for the board zinc plate390BE29E-A500-4DB8-A84D-65629F6859BC (resized).jpeg
I like to put some screw to secure the neck when I do cab work, it make the head more stable
69C9BF04-3867-4004-ABBE-2063BCDAF738 (resized).jpeg6CEA2EAF-CDDE-4876-AEB4-8E62C345EAFE (resized).jpegQuoted from cottonm4:Where did you get all of your nice new shiny white cable clamps?
[quoted image]
Not sure... i think a bought it around here...
Quoted from heme:are these pictures only blank for me? or can other people see them.
I see it...
A8C43B0B-C3AA-4951-BE36-9C0753862A92 (resized).jpeg93609170-82A3-4C2E-AEAE-37603ED9B3CF (resized).jpegBE7E79AF-C6CD-4241-83FD-71129CBAAA89 (resized).jpegHi have couple problem... pretty sure it’s related with the switch matrix
1- when drop target #2 is drop, it’s activate the loop bonus, after that, the regular bonus and the game switch to ball #2. Behave like a lost the ball when drop target 2 is drop
2- this one is bizarre. If the right 3 drop bank is drop and i try to start a game, it’s reboot. Start button reboot the game. If the drop are up, i can start a game. All three drop need to be drop to reboot.
Already change all the diode on the big drop target bank and the diode in the drop target 2 row (grey wire) Change also diode on drop target five row. (White-green wire)
I also change the the start button diode, slam tilt diode and tilt diode. I cut the capacitor between the tilt
I will continue to change diode... will do the 2 3 drop bank first and all the diode related with the trought
If you have and idea... i’m open!
Quoted from cottonm4:Try changing TOP D.L.T. grey wire. THat is your bull's eye target.
other than that, I don't know
Top LDT is top left drop target, the bulleye target is already change (loop DT)
I will change it, but the accessibility is a PITA... this why i didn’t already change it
Make some progress tonight
After changing all the drop target diode... no change.
I disconnect j3 on the MPU... no change.
I put the game in test mode and with the manuel, i check all the switch with the number in the manuel. everything was ok except the #2 drop target, was supposed to be #10 and it was #2 (#2 is the number for the middle coin switch... all the other switch was ok. The #2 drop target was the one causing my problem.
So I check for something wrong around it, move some wire, unscrew the drop target assembly to see if it goes away... nothing, still see #2 and suposed to be #10. I notice when i touch both blade of the switch, without touching the activating arm of the drop target, the #2 go away and the #10 apears.
After that, i decide to change the switch. Look like my switch was short somewhere, everything was back to normal with the new one.
Now i need to find why my start button stop working when all the drop target from the right bank are down.
Ok thank's
this look like my last problem...
I have a probleme with my start button... If all the drop on the right bank drop target are down, when I press the start button... the game reboot. If one, two or all drop traget are up... I can start the game and everything work like it should...
Already change the diode on the start switch, all drop target, tilt and slam switch. I also change the switch itself. I check closely for any short on the coin door.
If I goes in test switch mode, the # associated with the start button is Ok, idem if I check it with all the drop down...
Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.
Any idea
you are right... this is the correct circuit...
I don't have an altec MPU but i have 6 classic stern, so I can certainly swap the MPU... but everything was Ok before the playfield swap and the coin door restoration
Quoted from cottonm4:Hey RK,
What about the two micro-switches in the outhole? Are they still good? All three switches have to show a ball is being counted before the credit button will work. Try putting one ball into the ball lock and see if that changes anything. Use your ohmmeter and make sure those two micro-switches are working.
Make sure the outhole switch is adjusted properly---if it is not making contact then your credit button will not work. With your new build there is a chance this switch has gone out of adjustment.
Will double check tonight, but they was working fine... I already change the diode on this 2 microswitch...
Problem solved, game is in the line up!
How cool is a classic stern line up? I Really like it
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Quoted from cottonm4:My mouth waters. That looks nice and a whole lot of great pinball playing. You do need a Seawitch in there somewhere
I had seawitch before and sell it.
Quoted from frunch:Congrats!!!! So how do you like Nine Ball? Yours must play beautifully! Amazing lineup you have there
I really like her before the teardown, for now, i just play it to find the cricket... i will tell you in a couple week how i like her in the line up
Need information about the roms revisions...
Which one do you runs...
did you try Oliver roms versions?
need some opinions please
Quoted from frunch:Amazing work, sir! Congrats on owning one of the nicest Nine Balls in existence!
Thank,s
This one start with you... thank you to sell me a very solid base nineball to start with!
Since the game come factory with it, i will leave it there on mine... you have to master it, have faith when the ball came straight in the middle and don’t touch anything...
Gameplay question... i just put the Oliver home roms in my Nineball, i have a friend who did the modifications for me. Everything work but I have a behavior i didn’t have before. I double check to be sure the dipswitch are the same in my new board with the modification and my old board. I just want to know which one of the roms have the correct behavior.
Before when i send a ball in the lock mechanism, it will give me the ball flashing. So if i’m at the ball #6, it will lock the ball and drop all the drop and give me the #6.... after that, the number 7 will be flashing.
Now with the new roms, it will just lock the ball, it doesn’t give the flashing ball...
C5403685-02AE-4AE4-851D-C106B1054B8B (resized).jpegI got the answer from Oliver... look like it was a bug that was corrected with the new roms... it’s making the game a lot harder!
I really like it!
Quoted from frunch:Interesting, what rules does it change? The only thing i was aware of is a playfield value multiplier during multiball.
Before when i send a ball in the lock mechanism, it will give me the ball flashing. So if i’m at the ball #6, it will lock the ball and drop all the drop and give me the #6.... after that, the number 7 will be flashing.
Now with the new roms, it will just lock the ball, it doesn’t give the flashing target...
Quoted from frunch:Very interesting, thanks for the info!
the flashing target... oups, not the flashing ball
Quick question...
How difficult your 8 ball is to do with a direct it.... i think mine is impossible to do. i was planning to change the middle post for something different that will give more space for a direct shot
Whats the best choice in your opinion... metal one (third photo) to keep hadware in the same area, the plastic red one to keep the look the same?
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Anyone have compared the CPR backglass version vs Greatwich version... curious. I will also like to see some CPR version in the game with light on
Quoted from ita47:Thanks for the Mayfair suggestion for the drop target, it arrived a couple of days ago! By the way nice restoration! Would you mind sharing what brand of paint you used and what the colors were? I'm having a hard time matching the original colors.
I had my cab head scan for color and have paint mix at the paint shop... a friend of mine paint it with a gun. Don’t have any other info... sorry
Quoted from Pingball:That would be very much appreciated?
I don’t have the files anymore, but i still have the diecut Vinyl sticker
Pm me your complete adresse and i will ship it to you!
4E16E557-76A1-402E-BA12-850FFAF231B7 (resized).jpeg8ABCAAA3-927A-40D4-A913-4B7B861F0A9B (resized).jpegQuoted from Pingball:That is my one wear spot, guessing it's a common one. Is there a stencil or decal out there for this?[quoted image]
I think I have a Files with the repro texte.... you will have to match your color and print your own decal! Let me have a look tonight
this is what i have... it's my files for my rub-on decal!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/26k0y6pbaddngzb/REPROGRAPHX-17x11-inches%20NINEBALL.tif?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ch5g4jfwsd83c2/REPROGRAPHX-17x11-inches%20NINEBALL.ai?dl=0
Quoted from snyper2099:I put Comet warm whites in the backbox. Does that count?
I only put led on the backglass also for conservation purpose only... Classic stern is beautifull with incandescent light. You can put blue or green 44 if you want a darker look on those color
When i made my srcatch built stargazer, there is no harness for it, so I built one myself... with the schematic, it's not so hard
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-stargazer-crazy-project/page/3#post-2360856
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