I have a professional redoing my cabinet. There's some question about the colors. Does anyone have color specs?
I have a professional redoing my cabinet. There's some question about the colors. Does anyone have color specs?
Quoted from bluespin:cottonm4 Good news. Stu Wright at CPR said that they are still looking for a donor playfield. He’s not on Pinside but you can reach him through Facebook
I sent Stu some pics. He needs a better example. He cannot use my play field.
Anyone have compared the CPR backglass version vs Greatwich version... curious. I will also like to see some CPR version in the game with light on
Joined the club about a month ago, the game is currently not working. I am collecting the parts needed for a full restoration. Can anyone tell me where I can find the red drop target in the back by the horseshoe mine is broken? All I really need is the target face, I can revit the new one on. I am also looking for both pop bumper caps and a power transformer 16B-6. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
NB Target (resized).jpg
Quoted from Redketchup:I bought my target from Mayfair
http://www.mayfairamusement.com/
Me too. Picked up a few from him at the Allentown show.
Quoted from Redketchup:All the part are there... just need to put it together
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Thanks for the Mayfair suggestion for the drop target, it arrived a couple of days ago! By the way nice restoration! Would you mind sharing what brand of paint you used and what the colors were? I'm having a hard time matching the original colors.
Quoted from ita47:Would you mind sharing what brand of paint you used and what the colors were? I'm having a hard time matching the original colors.
For PF and outside cab I didn't have much trouble using standard Creatix opaques. The orange and red worked out easy, and blue if I recall wasn;t horrible.
I mean yellow is yellow and always sucks.
Inside of cab Rust-o-leam orange is a spot on match
Quoted from ita47:Thanks for the Mayfair suggestion for the drop target, it arrived a couple of days ago! By the way nice restoration! Would you mind sharing what brand of paint you used and what the colors were? I'm having a hard time matching the original colors.
I had my cab head scan for color and have paint mix at the paint shop... a friend of mine paint it with a gun. Don’t have any other info... sorry
Quoted from TractorDoc:Follow up post from #286.
The fixin' process has been well documented in my restoration thread, but wanted to add a couple finished pictures here in the club.
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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nine-ball-overhaul-my-attempt-to-resurrect-a-long-dormant-machine
your playfield closeup pictures would look great framed wall art!
Hey folks, I played a Nine Ball recently and really loved the game! Can they still be had for reasonable (pinside’s suggested 1k-ish) price? I’d love one but I really can’t see spending much more than that on the game.
Just looking for an okay player’s condition or beater game. It would probably go out at my arcade.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Can they still be had for reasonable (pinside’s suggested 1k-ish) price?
Not unless you find one amazing deal no.
Quoted from TheLaw:Not unless you find one amazing deal no.
So are they running 2k or is nine ball really a 4K game now???
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Hey folks, I played a Nine Ball recently and really loved the game! Can they still be had for reasonable (pinside’s suggested 1k-ish) price? I’d love one but I really can’t see spending much more than that on the game.
Just looking for an okay player’s condition or beater game. It would probably go out at my arcade.
Fully working nice cosmetics, but not restored, playfield wear in the ball rack area $1500-1900.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:So are they running 2k or is nine ball really a 4K game now???
Quoted from bluespin:Fully working nice cosmetics, but not restored, playfield wear in the ball rack area $1500-1900.
Yeah the assumption is you'll have to repaint it for sure; all the standard Stern key limes will be blown out at the very least.
Stern pricing is weird now...I hear tales of shit going for mega bucks but I don't know if it's true.
If I found one for $1500 I'd be really pumped. I don't doubt if it were a bidding situation you'd have many offers over that; but it could be done.
I think a very nice example would be in the $4000 - $5000 range depending on how much work was done on it.
Quoted from bluespin:Fully working nice cosmetics, but not restored, playfield wear in the ball rack area $1500-1900.
I’d be more willing to swing that to be honest. Ball wear and such doesn’t bother me. It’ll be played a lot more!
Quoted from jkashani:Had two full price offers at 5K when I put mine up.
That's how much fun it is...
Wow, okay so Classic Stern prices are on fire right now. How come Mitch’s Sea Witch is still sitting at 3k?!
I don’t get it at all
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:How come Mitch’s Sea Witch is still sitting at 3k?!
look at the playfield
Quoted from jahbarron:Seawitch seems much more common and often in better shape than Nine Ball
I think because of the code problems a lot of Nine Balls were scrapped. They produced about the same number of Seawitch and Nine Ball do that’s the only thing that I could come up with.
I talked to an arcade operator at TPF three years ago. I asked him what he did with all the pins when he closed his arcade. He destroyed all the Ataris because they were hard to maintain, and all of the Gottlieb 80 series except Black Hole and Haunted House. Then he picked a few to take home and everything else was destroyed. He said that any pin that caused him problems on s regular basis was destroyed. That would explain why so few Nine Balls are out there.
Gosh! Back in the day, nobody wanted Stern games.
$250.00 or $300.00 dollars and people would still argue for a cheaper price.
My Seawitch was sold and picked up for 4k the day it was listed with a buyer for the same waiting in the wings.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Wow, okay so Classic Stern prices are on fire right now. How come Mitch’s Sea Witch is still sitting at 3k?!
I don’t get it at all
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/89436
Yes I realize the playfield makes it a players game. The touchups are all sealed under mylar and the ball flies over it so fast you can't tell, but they're still there. I listed her at the bottom end of the value scale in the market and dropped the price to 2900 with an OBO. If you would like to make her perfect John Greatwhich is currently making repro playfields. Shoot me an offer
Quoted from vec-tor:Gosh! Back in the day, nobody wanted Stern games.
$250.00 or $300.00 dollars and people would still argue for a cheaper price.
I wish I had been around at those prices.
Not counting Cue and Orbitor 1, there were 17 MPU-200 Sterns built. Each one is so different from the other. The only items they all share in common is a pair of flippers in front of the out hole and most of them all use the curved ball guides to redirect the ball in some fashion.
They are fantastic entertainment.
Congrats welcome to the club! Try Mayfair Amusements for those parts:
http://www.mayfairamusement.com/parts.html
Also may want to try The Pinball Resource: http://www.pbresource.com
Quoted from frunch:Congrats welcome to the club! Try Mayfair Amusements for those parts:
http://www.mayfairamusement.com/parts.html
Also may want to try The Pinball Resource: http://www.pbresource.com
For the dead pop bumper cap, PBR has them in blanks of various colors. You will have to supply your own text.
Quoted from Pingball:Thanks for the info!
That red drop target, was it only used on Nine Ball? Can't say I've seen one like that before.
Hoping this will clean up pretty nice.[quoted image]
The part is actually an old EM pinball part that CCD used along with Williams Electronics.
Quoted from Pingball:Thanks for the info!
That red drop target, was it only used on Nine Ball? Can't say I've seen one like that before.
Hoping this will clean up pretty nice.[quoted image]
I think you wiil be quite happy with the clean up. It appears that all of the balls are in great shape. I cannot see the 3000 over in the left lane, but would be very happy is my play field looks like yours,.
Quoted from cottonm4:I think you wiil be quite happy with the clean up. It appears that all of the balls are in great shape. I cannot see the 3000 over in the left lane, but would be very happy is my play field looks like yours,.
Condition looks very similar to the one I recently found. I think I have decided to make a clear playfield protector for it but not certain yet.
Quoted from snyper2099:I think I have decided to make a clear playfield protector for it but not certain yet.
If you make this protector, I'm in for one. I think 9 ball needs it
Quoted from Barakawins1:If you make this protector, I'm in for one. I think 9 ball needs it
The previous owner of mine (hailrazer and before him another Georgian Pinsider) hand cut a protector and, I will say, it really does help the ball play faster when it doesn't have to roll over the commonly cupped inserts. Normally I'm not a fan.
Quoted from snyper2099:Condition looks very similar to the one I recently found. I think I have decided to make a clear playfield protector for it but not certain yet.
Quoted from Barakawins1:If you make this protector, I'm in for one. I think 9 ball needs it
I made a protector 3 years back for my Nine Ball. I did that before I ever played a game on this pin. They are not hard to make. If you have some scissors and some other basic tools you can make one.
Here is one I just finished making for my Dragonfist. I am making this one a little bit different than my others. For this one, I haver added some some spacers to elevate the ball guides. This is letting me make my cuts so the protector sits under the ball guides without being pinched by the guides. This allows for a cleaner appearance since I did not have to make cuts to fit inside the guides.
The protector is locked into position by clamping it to the play field with the 3 posts that sit behind the mid-play field drop assembly. The rest of the protector floats free at all points on the play field.
I should have it complete and playing in a couple more hours. With the new way I used to place it under the guides it can barely be seen.
Don't be seduced by the new shiny look. As you play and wax the play field, eventually the shine will fade. It will still look good but it will dull out a little bit.
IMG_3047 (resized).jpg
IMG_3050 (resized).jpgIMG_3051 (resized).jpgIMG_3059 (resized).jpgIMG_3078 (resized).jpgIMG_3079 (resized).jpg
Quoted from jahbarron:Normally I'm not a fan.
Agreed. Clear coat is much better. As I work to get mine restored, the protector will go away.
Quoted from cottonm4:I made a protector 3 years back for my Nine Ball. I did that before I ever played a game on this pin. They are not hard to make. If you have some scissors and some other basic tools you can make one.
Here is one I just finished making for my Dragonfist. I am making this one a little bit different than my others. For this one, I haver added some some spacers to elevate the ball guides. This is letting me make my cuts so the protector sits under the ball guides without being pinched by the guides. This allows for a cleaner appearance since I did not have to make cuts to fit inside the guides.
The protector is locked into position by clamping it to the play field with the 3 posts that sit behind the mid-play field drop assembly. The rest of the protector floats free at all points on the play field.
I should have it complete and playing in a couple more hours. With the new way I used to place it under the guides it can barely be seen.
Don't be seduced by the new shiny look. As you play and wax the play field, eventually the shine will fade. It will still look good but it will dull out a little bit.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
One other thing I did this time was to make some relief cuts on the side rail where the rubbers are. I found that there are instances where the post sits so close to the rail that it is difficult to remove and reinstall a new rubber. These relief cuts make a lot of difference and most of the time the cuts will be hidden under the plastics so you don't see them.
Quoted from Redketchup:I have the text for the pop bumper i can share
That would be very much appreciated?
Quoted from Pingball:That would be very much appreciated?
I don’t have the files anymore, but i still have the diecut Vinyl sticker
Pm me your complete adresse and i will ship it to you!
4E16E557-76A1-402E-BA12-850FFAF231B7 (resized).jpeg8ABCAAA3-927A-40D4-A913-4B7B861F0A9B (resized).jpegQuoted from Redketchup:I don’t have the files anymore, but i still have the diecut Vinyl sticker
Pm me your complete adresse and i will ship it to you![quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks a million! Feeling more optimistic about this restore by the minute
Quoted from cottonm4:I made a protector 3 years back for my Nine Ball. I did that before I ever played a game on this pin. They are not hard to make. If you have some scissors and some other basic tools you can make one.
Here is one I just finished making for my Dragonfist. I am making this one a little bit different than my others. For this one, I haver added some some spacers to elevate the ball guides. This is letting me make my cuts so the protector sits under the ball guides without being pinched by the guides. This allows for a cleaner appearance since I did not have to make cuts to fit inside the guides.
The protector is locked into position by clamping it to the play field with the 3 posts that sit behind the mid-play field drop assembly. The rest of the protector floats free at all points on the play field.
I should have it complete and playing in a couple more hours. With the new way I used to place it under the guides it can barely be seen.
Don't be seduced by the new shiny look. As you play and wax the play field, eventually the shine will fade. It will still look good but it will dull out a little bit.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great work on the protector! Where do you get the plastic sheeting?
Hadn't thought to put post LED's facing downwards rather than under the post. Going to give that a try.
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