I got the answer from Oliver... look like it was a bug that was corrected with the new roms... it’s making the game a lot harder!
I really like it!
I got the answer from Oliver... look like it was a bug that was corrected with the new roms... it’s making the game a lot harder!
I really like it!
Quoted from Redketchup:I got the answer from Oliver... look like it was a bug that was corrected with the new roms... it’s making the game a lot harder!
I really like it!
Interesting, what rules does it change? The only thing i was aware of is a playfield value multiplier during multiball.
Quoted from frunch:Interesting, what rules does it change? The only thing i was aware of is a playfield value multiplier during multiball.
Before when i send a ball in the lock mechanism, it will give me the ball flashing. So if i’m at the ball #6, it will lock the ball and drop all the drop and give me the #6.... after that, the number 7 will be flashing.
Now with the new roms, it will just lock the ball, it doesn’t give the flashing target...
Quoted from Redketchup:Now with the new roms, it will just lock the ball, it doesn’t give the flashing ball...
Very interesting, thanks for the info!
Quoted from frunch:Very interesting, thanks for the info!
the flashing target... oups, not the flashing ball
Quick question...
How difficult your 8 ball is to do with a direct it.... i think mine is impossible to do. i was planning to change the middle post for something different that will give more space for a direct shot
Whats the best choice in your opinion... metal one (third photo) to keep hadware in the same area, the plastic red one to keep the look the same?
03-9357-plastic-pinball-post (resized).jpegminirubberpost (resized).jpgpmsp-0010 (resized).jpgs-l300 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Redketchup:Quick question...
How difficult your 8 ball is to do with a direct it.... i think mine is impossible to do. i was planning to change the middle post for something different that will give more space for a direct shot
Whats the best choice in your opinion... metal one (third photo) to keep hadware in the same area, the plastic red one to keep the look the same?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
If you are looking for more space, you need to use the metal one with the smaller diameter for the rubber. And install it like the manufacturers do them now. You will want a washer on the top side of the play field as well as the lower side.
Quoted from TheLaw:Bah I'd keep it factory. You can;t hit it straight you gotta bank it off the rail...it's pool!
Are we playing Slop or Call Shot ?
Quoted from cottonm4:Are we playing Slop or Call Shot ?
We are playing the standard rules applied by the BCA, Billiard Congress of America, and I will not deviate form them at all!
Quoted from TheLaw:Bah I'd keep it factory. You can;t hit it straight you gotta bank it off the rail...it's pool!
Agreed. That’s the whole point behind the way the right side design of the playfield is angled in several ways. You’re looking for the right shot to bank it into the 8 ball and ball lock. If you could make either of those easily with a direct shot it makes it a way easier game.
Anybody have custom cards for nine ball? I'm about to have my game all back together with a cleared playfield after a few years of restoration to everything. I'm sure I'll have a few issues but the crusty cards gotta go.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:Folks,
Going to try and convince CPR to do a nine ball play field.
Who is in?
Cheers,
Neil.
In
Quoted from kickabit:Has anyone bought the mirrored version of the CPR backglass? I’m wondering how this looks.
My mirrored CPR backglass arrived today. I like it so far. It pops a little more with the mirrored areas.
37808C65-62C8-4D4B-BA2F-20EE0A7E5452 (resized).jpeg3B229306-AD92-40C2-89D3-27C75F20F8AA (resized).jpeg98112B11-8004-437D-9686-7731F13D5FE4 (resized).jpegI picked up the non-mirrored version during their 20% off sale, the mirrored version was not available at that time. I am really pleased with it, don't hesitate to go with the non-mirrored if on a budget.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:In the club!
I have my cabinet out getting redone. I miss my Nine Ball dearly.
Quoted from Redketchup:Had a little game tonight! 3 ball with home roms[quoted image]
Time to challenge Bowen. Lol
Nine Ball - Ball lock issue. Can someone help me solve this problem? For some reason, when the first ball lands in the saucer it just sits there. No ball gets kicked
out into the trough either. Once in a while, and I mean a while, the solenoid will kick it out of the hole. If I tilt the game while the ball is in the saucer it also gets
kicked out. I already did a switch test and all switches register as they should, including ball trough switches. I thought it may be the driver board.. Nope, changed
it and the symptom repeats. When the ball sits in the saucer, points register and targets reset as it should. The ball will not get kicked out. Anyone have an idea? I even cleaned the contains for the saucer and both switches before it.
Did you play the game with the bottom arch removed, to make sure the balls
are moving into the correct position for kickout?
( no ball hangups )?
Quoted from vec-tor:Did you play the game with the bottom arch removed, to make sure the balls
are moving into the correct position for kickout?
( no ball hangups )?
Hey Vec-tor.. Yes. I removed the arch. All balls travel into their respective places as intended without any wire form hang ups. In switch test I passed the ball through the trough one at a time and the wire forms were moving down and triggering as they should I checked and cleaned the ball lock switch as well as both switches prior to ball lock. I checked the shooter lane switch as well. I have to say I'm stumped. Very very rarely does the ball lock work as expected. The ball just locks and sits there. If I tilt the game, it will eject. Can this be related to J4 connector on the MPU perhaps?
Yesterday I re-pinned the driver board connectors. I thought maybe something there was causing this issue. Nope.. No change. What I found which was
very weird is this... I placed the machine in switch test. Reset all targets manually and removed all balls. I placed my index finger across both terminals
on the ball trough microswitches and without triggering the wire form and the switch numbers showed up on the display each time I manually touched
both terminals. I've never seen this before so I think there may be an issue of some kind here. I need someone to verify if in switch test touching two
terminals on the microswitches will complete the circuit and show a number.
Fixed!
***Update*** Fixed .05uf 100v capacitor shorted on the 2nd call micro switch. Clipped capacitor off and fixed the problem. Sheesh! I hope this helps someone. I'll replace with .05uf 100v capacitor***
Quoted from Barakawins1:Fixed!
***Update*** Fixed .05uf 100v capacitor shorted on the 2nd call micro switch. Clipped capacitor off and fixed the problem. Sheesh! I hope this helps someone. I'll replace with .05uf 100v capacitor***
How did you figure that out? Always interested in learning troubleshooting techniques.
Quoted from cottonm4:How did you figure that out? Always interested in learning troubleshooting techniques.
Interestingly. Weird things were happening. Sometimes the game wouldn't start when pressing the start button. I touched the ball trough switches
at the terminals where the capacitor diode and wire are soldered. Wiggled the capacitor and voila! Press start button and the game fired. Then after
game play, once the ball was locked into the left playfield saucer, the second ball wouldn't launch. I had to tilt the game in order to eject the ball from the
saucer. I placed the machine in switch test. Strangely, all switches work fine. I rolled a ball across every switch and the switches are working fine. The left ball lock and the ball trough switches are connected. Something just didn't seem right. This is when I touched two terminals (the ones with the capacitor attached)
and guess what, it registered as a closed contact on the display screen. This didn't seem right. I clipped the .05uf 100v capacitor off and ever since, it's been
playing fine. Time to re-order some ceramic disc capacitors.
OK.. problem is back. Once I get the ball locked in the upper left saucer, no targets drop and nothing happens. The ball does not eject into the ball trough. I have to
tilt the game to get to the next ball. Seems like something is not seeing the ball lock switch. The switch closes fine and I also installed a new 1N4004 diode. Still
same issue. any ideas anyone?
I’m trying to figure out if I should go through the work to restore my playfield or shelve it (or get it working as is) and wait for a possible repro.
Is there anything official in the works? Obviously if Greatwich does it, that’s great, but I would just tune mine up knowing what to expect from that timeline (no offense) while waiting patiently for the result.
Anyways, been in the club for a bit. Combined 2 games to make 1 and had a choice of picking an ashy working playfield over a glossy but yellowed farm fresh playfield. Just installed the lamp boards as like most stern games every socket was bad.
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from Barakawins1:OK.. problem is back. Once I get the ball locked in the upper left saucer, no targets drop and nothing happens. The ball does not eject into the ball trough. I have to
tilt the game to get to the next ball. Seems like something is not seeing the ball lock switch. The switch closes fine and I also installed a new 1N4004 diode. Still
same issue. any ideas anyone?
Try replacing the 6821, I believe U10.
Can someone email me a known good set of working roms please? I want to see if this may be my problem with the left ball lock.
Quoted from CraigC:I’m trying to figure out if I should go through the work to restore my playfield or shelve it (or get it working as is) and wait for a possible repro.
Is there anything official in the works? Obviously if Greatwich does it, that’s great, but I would just tune mine up knowing what to expect from that timeline (no offense) while waiting patiently for the result.
Anyways, been in the club for a bit. Combined 2 games to make 1 and had a choice of picking an ashy working playfield over a glossy but yellowed farm fresh playfield. Just installed the lamp boards as like most stern games every socket was bad.
[quoted image]
I was talking with Mirco last year about furnishing my Nine Play field for a "master" copy. Those talks have gone nowhere and now with the problems Crispin has had with his Qicksilver play field and Mirco I am not too interested in sending my NB play field to Germany.
I don't know if Greatwich would take this on, but even if he did some one would have to send him the art work first . Setting up the art work is no easy task and requires the skills of an experienced artist.
Quoted from cottonm4:I was talking with Mirco last year about furnishing my Nine Play field for a "master" copy. Those talks have gone nowhere and now with the problems Crispin has had with his Qicksilver play field and Mirco I am not too interested in sending my NB play field to Germany.
I don't know if Greatwich would take this on, but even if he did some one would have to send him the art work first . Setting up the art work is no easy task and requires the skills of an experienced artist.
In a company newsletter two years ago CPR said that they were planning on making Nine Ball, Seawitch and Star Gazer playfields and needed to borrow playfields. I’ll reach out to CPR and see if they are still looking for a Nine Ball playfield. I won’t help facilitate them making Seawitch or Star Gazer playfields because @greatwichjohn already makes these.
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