Quoted from Redketchup:Backglass white panel and head documentation
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Where did you get all of your nice new shiny white cable clamps?
Quoted from Redketchup:Backglass white panel and head documentation
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Where did you get all of your nice new shiny white cable clamps?
Quoted from Redketchup:Backglass white panel and head documentation
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are these pictures only blank for me? or can other people see them.
Quoted from cottonm4:Where did you get all of your nice new shiny white cable clamps?
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Not sure... i think a bought it around here...
Quoted from heme:are these pictures only blank for me? or can other people see them.
I see it...
A8C43B0B-C3AA-4951-BE36-9C0753862A92 (resized).jpeg93609170-82A3-4C2E-AEAE-37603ED9B3CF (resized).jpegBE7E79AF-C6CD-4241-83FD-71129CBAAA89 (resized).jpegQuoted from heme:are these pictures only blank for me? or can other people see them.
Quoted from Redketchup:I see it...
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You did a double post. The 2nd one is blank.
Hi have couple problem... pretty sure it’s related with the switch matrix
1- when drop target #2 is drop, it’s activate the loop bonus, after that, the regular bonus and the game switch to ball #2. Behave like a lost the ball when drop target 2 is drop
2- this one is bizarre. If the right 3 drop bank is drop and i try to start a game, it’s reboot. Start button reboot the game. If the drop are up, i can start a game. All three drop need to be drop to reboot.
Already change all the diode on the big drop target bank and the diode in the drop target 2 row (grey wire) Change also diode on drop target five row. (White-green wire)
I also change the the start button diode, slam tilt diode and tilt diode. I cut the capacitor between the tilt
I will continue to change diode... will do the 2 3 drop bank first and all the diode related with the trought
If you have and idea... i’m open!
Quoted from cottonm4:Try changing TOP D.L.T. grey wire. THat is your bull's eye target.
other than that, I don't know
Top LDT is top left drop target, the bulleye target is already change (loop DT)
I will change it, but the accessibility is a PITA... this why i didn’t already change it
Quoted from Redketchup:Top LDT is top left drop target, the bulleye target is already change (loop DT)
I will change it, but the accessibility is a PITA... this why i didn’t already change it
Just pull the drop target assembly. It is not that hard and I am sure you know how tackle to the 3 switches on the back. I recently had to remove my drop target assembly to fix a broken wire. It can be done.
Quoted from Redketchup:Power supply, tilt board, shooter gauge...
Everything is back together and everything boot!
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did you polish everything? or is the plating better in later sterns, the plating on my stars is all zinc and oxidized.
Also do all stern have those metal playfield holder brackets?
Quoted from heme:did you polish everything? or is the plating better in later sterns, the plating on my stars is all zinc and oxidized.
Also do all stern have those metal playfield holder brackets?
You can polish the zinc plating with a buffing wheel. It will shine. But mine has started dulling out after a couple of years. I am going to do more polishing this summer and this time I am going to spray on some gloss clear in an effort to hold the shine for a long time.
From Hot Hand and on, all Sterns use those play field "Z" brackets for play field mounting. The Dracula cab I had used wood blocks for play field support.
Make some progress tonight
After changing all the drop target diode... no change.
I disconnect j3 on the MPU... no change.
I put the game in test mode and with the manuel, i check all the switch with the number in the manuel. everything was ok except the #2 drop target, was supposed to be #10 and it was #2 (#2 is the number for the middle coin switch... all the other switch was ok. The #2 drop target was the one causing my problem.
So I check for something wrong around it, move some wire, unscrew the drop target assembly to see if it goes away... nothing, still see #2 and suposed to be #10. I notice when i touch both blade of the switch, without touching the activating arm of the drop target, the #2 go away and the #10 apears.
After that, i decide to change the switch. Look like my switch was short somewhere, everything was back to normal with the new one.
Now i need to find why my start button stop working when all the drop target from the right bank are down.
Quoted from Redketchup:Make some progress tonight
After changing all the drop target diode... no change.
I disconnect j3 on the MPU... no change.
I put the game in test mode and with the manuel, i check all the switch with the number in the manuel. everything was ok except the #2 drop target, was supposed to be #10 and it was #2 (#2 is the number for the middle coin switch... all the other switch was ok. The #2 drop target was the one causing my problem.
So I check for something wrong around it, move some wire, unscrew the drop target assembly to see if it goes away... nothing, still see #2 and suposed to be #10. I notice when i touch both blade of the switch, without touching the activating arm of the drop target, the #2 go away and the #10 apears.
After that, i decide to change the target. Look like my target was short somewhere, everything was back to normal with the new one.
Now i need to find why my start button stop working when all the drop target from the right bank are down.
Glad you are getting there.
When I brought my NB home 3 years ago and set it up my credit button would not work. I swapped coin doors and that was no help. Then the credit button just started working. I don't know why. NB sat for a long time before I got it running 4 weeks ago. It was been working fine until yesterday. It shut down in middle of game and would not work. Today, it still would not work. So I pushed the solenoid test button in the coin door and all solenoids worked and then my credit button was working again. I don't know why but you might try doing the solenoid test and see if you get lucky.
I have Alltek boards in mine. I don't why I have a credit button problem.
Ok thank's
this look like my last problem...
I have a probleme with my start button... If all the drop on the right bank drop target are down, when I press the start button... the game reboot. If one, two or all drop traget are up... I can start the game and everything work like it should...
Already change the diode on the start switch, all drop target, tilt and slam switch. I also change the switch itself. I check closely for any short on the coin door.
If I goes in test switch mode, the # associated with the start button is Ok, idem if I check it with all the drop down...
Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.
Any idea
Quoted from Redketchup:Ok thank's
this look like my last problem...
I have a probleme with my start button... If all the drop on the right bank drop target are down, when I press the start button... the game reboot. If one, two or all drop traget are up... I can start the game and everything work like it should...
Already change the diode on the start switch, all drop target, tilt and slam switch. I also change the switch itself. I check closely for any short on the coin door.
If I goes in test switch mode, the # associated with the start button is Ok, idem if I check it with all the drop down...
Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.
Any idea
If I understand correctly, these are your problem circuits. None of it makes sense.
The coin door, Tilt, and Slam got to MPU A4-J3. Drops go to MPU A4-J2.
Is there any possibility there could be a problem with your MPU? Do any of your Sterns have an Alltek MPU you could swap and see if there is any change?
you are right... this is the correct circuit...
I don't have an altec MPU but i have 6 classic stern, so I can certainly swap the MPU... but everything was Ok before the playfield swap and the coin door restoration
Quoted from Redketchup:Finally, if i touch the tilt switch or slam switch, the game reboot.
I have no idea what is causing the problem. I know you know how to wire up a play field.
But touching the tilt or slam tilt causing a reboot is strange. Can you disable your tilt and slam by cutting or desoldering the wires and see if this corrects the problem with the drop targets? Other than swapping MPUs, which is a long shot, I cannot think of anything else.
Quoted from Redketchup:you are right... this is the correct circuit...
I don't have an altec MPU but i have 6 classic stern, so I can certainly swap the MPU... but everything was Ok before the playfield swap and the coin door restoration
My Nine Ball just locked up again. I know this is of no real help for you, but the dead credit buttons puzzle me.
Mine drained on ball 2 but the outhole did not kick the ball out for ball 3. My game is held in suspension. Nothing works to kick the ball out and get the game moving. So I have to turn it off and then back on. But after I turn it back on the credit button is dead. Ding-Dong Dead. So, I have to press the test button and cycle through the solenoids test. After the solenoids test I have to turn the pin off and then back on and my credit button is working again.
And I have no idea why this happens.
Quoted from cottonm4:My Nine Ball just locked up again.
Do you have good voltages at the test points on the rectifier board and sdu? Have you re-pinned connectors on the rectifier board and re-capped sdu? Also, does your mpu have any battery corrosion? I had similar issues on my NB and had to fix all that stuff before it would work properly without occasionally locking up or resetting.
Quoted from frunch:Do you have good voltages at the test points on the rectifier board and sdu? Have you re-pinned connectors on the rectifier board and re-capped sdu? Also, does your mpu have any battery corrosion? I had similar issues on my NB and had to fix all that stuff before it would work properly without occasionally locking up or resetting.
i have both an Alltek MPU and SDU. I replaced the MPU due to battery corrosion. I also re-pinned every connector when I brought it home.
Before I figured out that I could push the test button to go back to normal, I noticed that if I lifted the play field to have a look around and that when i lowered the play field that everything was OK. I don't see and loose wire connections.
Quoted from frunch:Just to be sure, you also re-pinned all the connectors on the rectifier board too?
Yes. Re-pinned 100%. But I did not use the trifurcate pins for the .156s. Perhaps I should re-do the the rectifier board with them? It might be a good bet.
Definitely! Gotta do both sides of those connectors on the rectifier board. So many of these problems come down to connectors, that's the next thing i would try.
Quoted from Redketchup:you are right... this is the correct circuit...
I don't have an altec MPU but i have 6 classic stern, so I can certainly swap the MPU... but everything was Ok before the playfield swap and the coin door restoration
Hey RK,
What about the two micro-switches in the outhole? Are they still good? All three switches have to show a ball is being counted before the credit button will work. Try putting one ball into the ball lock and see if that changes anything. Use your ohmmeter and make sure those two micro-switches are working.
Make sure the outhole switch is adjusted properly---if it is not making contact then your credit button will not work. With your new build there is a chance this switch has gone out of adjustment.
Quoted from cottonm4:Hey RK,
What about the two micro-switches in the outhole? Are they still good? All three switches have to show a ball is being counted before the credit button will work. Try putting one ball into the ball lock and see if that changes anything. Use your ohmmeter and make sure those two micro-switches are working.
Make sure the outhole switch is adjusted properly---if it is not making contact then your credit button will not work. With your new build there is a chance this switch has gone out of adjustment.
Will double check tonight, but they was working fine... I already change the diode on this 2 microswitch...
Problem solved, game is in the line up!
How cool is a classic stern line up? I Really like it
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Quoted from Redketchup:Problem solved, game is in the line up!
How cool is a classic stern line up? I Really like it
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My mouth waters. That looks nice and a whole lot of great pinball playing. You do need a Seawitch in there somewhere
Quoted from Redketchup:Problem solved, game is in the line up!
Congrats!!!! So how do you like Nine Ball? Yours must play beautifully! Amazing lineup you have there
Quoted from cottonm4:My mouth waters. That looks nice and a whole lot of great pinball playing. You do need a Seawitch in there somewhere
I had seawitch before and sell it.
Quoted from frunch:Congrats!!!! So how do you like Nine Ball? Yours must play beautifully! Amazing lineup you have there
I really like her before the teardown, for now, i just play it to find the cricket... i will tell you in a couple week how i like her in the line up
Need information about the roms revisions...
Which one do you runs...
did you try Oliver roms versions?
need some opinions please
Quoted from frunch:Amazing work, sir! Congrats on owning one of the nicest Nine Balls in existence!
Thank,s
This one start with you... thank you to sell me a very solid base nineball to start with!
You're welcome! I gotta admit, it's been a real treat watching you make such a beautiful example of the rough/players condition game it was in when i sold it to you. I was happy knowing it was going to a good home when you offered to buy it
Where does everyone have their "Kirk post" installed? I'm shopping out my NB at the moment and realized the post isn't centered in the art between/below the flippers. Should the post be in the center of that sort of star-shaped art? (Meaning i would move the post up a little to center it in that circle it's currently sitting towards the bottom of)
IMG_20190306_135601.jpgQuoted from frunch:Where does everyone have their "Kirk post" installed? I'm shopping out my NB at the moment and realized the post isn't centered in the art between/below the flippers. Should the post be in the center of that sort of star-shaped art? (Meaning i would move the post up a little to center it in that circle it's currently sitting towards the bottom of)
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Mine is in the center of that white dot. Looks like that is the only place it has ever been.
Mine apparently has gotten around a bit, lol. There's a hole above the one it's currently mounted in, and another further below and a bit to the right. I'll finally install it in it's correct position
Quoted from frunch:Mine apparently has gotten around a bit, lol. There's a hole above the one it's currently mounted in, and another further below and a bit to the right. I'll finally install it in it's correct position
I'm thinking about removing mine. It's like a cheap insurance policy and never there when you really need it.
Oh, when I have some mediocre 100,000 point game rolling it is there saying " I'll protect you" as keeps kicking the ball back onto the play field. But when I get a hot 700,000--800,000 point game rolling, I swear that little bastard is made of rubber. Sometimes I can just see it smile at me, flip me off, and just sort of lean to the side and let the ball roll into the drain. And saying something like, "You just bought the Bronze policy which is only good for 100,000 points. For real protection, you should have bought the Gold policy which would be good to 950,000 points.
Since the game come factory with it, i will leave it there on mine... you have to master it, have faith when the ball came straight in the middle and don’t touch anything...
Does anybody sell the wiring harness for classic Sterns? I though I saw somebody making them for Sea Witch.
Rich
Just leave the post in and remove the rubber if it's too easy...you'll still try to use the thing 1 time a game and blow it
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Does anybody sell the wiring harness for classic Sterns? I though I saw somebody making them for Sea Witch.
Rich
Third Coast Pinball is making some Stern harnesses.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1041-third-coast-pinball
Quoted from Redketchup:Problem solved, game is in the line up!
How cool is a classic stern line up? I Really like it
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Stellar lineup with some all time favorites and amazing restore!
Gameplay question... i just put the Oliver home roms in my Nineball, i have a friend who did the modifications for me. Everything work but I have a behavior i didn’t have before. I double check to be sure the dipswitch are the same in my new board with the modification and my old board. I just want to know which one of the roms have the correct behavior.
Before when i send a ball in the lock mechanism, it will give me the ball flashing. So if i’m at the ball #6, it will lock the ball and drop all the drop and give me the #6.... after that, the number 7 will be flashing.
Now with the new roms, it will just lock the ball, it doesn’t give the flashing ball...
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