(Topic ID: 212802)

Night Rider (Bally) - 10 Point Stuck, other issues

By MaxAsh

6 years ago



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#1 6 years ago

Hey all - working on a new issue with a Night Rider pin. It started relatively simple, but has become stranger. Here's the breakdown. Apologies for the long post.

Turn the game on, it's in Game Over per usual, ready to go. Hit Start/Reset and the score reels all reset per normal, and the game attempts to start a 1 Player game. The 10 Pt relay, 10 point score reel (first player), Match Unit and 10pt Chime coil all immediately lock on.

The ball kicks to the shooter lane. None of the 10 pt scoring works (since it's locked on), but everything else does. You can score 100 pts for example, then drain a ball, and it will advance to the next ball per usual. You can play the game through, ending with a normal game over.

Things I've done:

- Checked all playfield switches, none appear physically closed (more on this below)
- Checked to see if score reel(s) are correctly resetting, and they are, including EOS, etc
- Generally look over normal things that cause this issue, no luck so far

So then I grabbed my meter and did a little testing. I found that several switches were testing as shorted, even though they're not touching. Not all playfield switches, just certain ones, I'm guessing linked in a series (need to check schematics). They're all 10 pt switches I believe. So something seems shorted, I just haven't figured out what yet.

EDIT - Checking the schematic online, I see that several of my switches that are shorted are indeed linked. If you look at the top of the schematic (H20-H23 area), you see that LEFT T.B. (thumper bumper), LEFT SPIN TARGET are in line with Score Motor 12C. These are all showing up shorted. Also, my DROP TARGET RE-BND SWITCHES are showing up shorted, and if you follow the other side of the score motor 12C Make/Break, you see it leads immediately to those switches. My "(2) REBOUND SW'S" are also shorted I believe, and are in that same line.

I decided to unplug the playfield from the cabinet. Sure enough, the playfield switches I found no longer showed up shorted. Trying each jones plug, I found that the middle one was the one that, when plugged in, causes everything to short. On the schematic it's labeled "Panel to Mounting Board" Plug 18.

With the plug removed, I tested the plug itself. I tested from the Yellow (30 color code) to all the other pins and find that it shorts to the White/Blue (52-1), White/Green (54) and Brown/Yellow (63-1) pins of the same plug. Guessing this is related to my issue.

That's where I am now, as I had to step away for a while. I did have one other, really weird thing happen just before I left. I plugged all the jones plugs back in and turned the machine on, just to retest. Same issue, but a new thing happened... most of the insert and playfield lights were out or very dim. Whenever I touched a playfield scoring object, ALL the lights came on in the playfield whenever the scoring switch was closed. Yikes.

schem1 (resized).JPGschem1 (resized).JPG

#2 6 years ago

The 10 pt relay switches control power to the following: 10 pt score reel (first player), match unit and 10 pt Chime coil. So, inspect all of the switches on the 10 pt relay. Look closely at the 10 pt relay switch with the white/green wire and white/blue wire - this switch will lock the coil on if it's shorted or not adjusted properly...

The playfield lights issue sounds like there's a problem with the Jones plugs. Make sure the plugs are clean and then reseat the plugs to check if they're fitting tightly... Also, check the 15 amp fuse holders on the illumination circuits to see if they're holding the fuses tightly.

#3 6 years ago

I'll check the relay again asap and see if anything there is strange. With the power off, and relay not engaged, I'm still getting the short across the non-touching played switches mentioned. Maybe I'm missing something on the relay, so I'll check again and report back.

#4 6 years ago

Remember, when you're checking a switch for continuity or shorts, one of the wires on the switch needs to be disconnected. When you test a switch with the wires connected, you might be getting a false reading from another part of the circuit.

Also, make sure all the switch stack screws are tight on any of the suspect switches...

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