Will you be offering on-site Clear Coating and Stealth LED service?

A bold Endeavour, to say the least. Best of Luck with your travels.

Jukes, Freight Elevators....

Can't wait to see the next "request"!

While our washer and dryer were Avocado Green,

Our refrigerator was Pink!

Nic,. Tell us what's for sale and where but Hold those sales details hostage to help fund your trip!

Then provide contact info for the right price.

Is that due to the Arizona Sun (which I know can be brutal)? Or the excessive use of LEDs?

What? Pet Ferrets don't count?

Nice shot of the Grand Prix bonus stepper. They are unique in that they can count up and down in single steps but also be instantly zeroed for game start up (that third relay coil armature).

Oh, you can add one more item to your list of bests: Biggest BUGs you encountered.

Nic screwed up there. Lesser talents have been given (or tried to get) reality shows. This would have been a perfect fit of technology and Americana! Maybe next trip? Might at least have all travel expenses covered by one of the cable networks.

I am sure you will encounter a $5000 Bally Odds and Evens

Nic,

Funny you should take a washer out, I just put one in!

I was working on a Gottlieb Gridiron at the Banning Museum. Problem was, not starting reliably every time (often sat there running the score motor until the final relay kicked over to allow the ball to be served). Problem sent me to the HOLD relay. In working with it, I determined it was not "fully" releasing. It would let go, and the switch actuator (ladder) would move out, but not always enough to change the necessary state of the switches. I discovered that someone has adjusted the dynamic blades (longer blade that is moved by the armature) with too much downward tension which was keeping the armature from going fully outward. It would kind of just float to wherever it decided it wanted to be that time. Never wanting to alter the armature spring in any way (some would simply increase tension by cutting a loop or two), I ended up re-adjusting the dynamic blades to stop fighting the spring tension and problem solved.

But new problem created. With the relay coil having a bit more fight now, the armature was buzzing. Buzzing a lot!! As I removed the coil to see whether there was something that could be done to reposition it to lessen the buzz, I ended up adding a thin washer between the coil slug and the bracket. Buzzing was gone, but so was the large amount of travel to the armature. A little fine tuning of the switch blades and all was fine.

We will have to see how it holds up now.......

Its interesting about those wires breaking off of the trip bank lugs as your photo shows. It seems its not really a cold solder but rather the original platting on the switch blades is de-bonding from the base metal (at least, that's what I have found). Like you said, full down-the-line resoldering is often required.

There was one of the older makes they used to refer to as "Jam Balls". And for good reason. Unless they are the newer LCD style units, they usually sell for less than what it would cost to get them repaired.

You are not alone, Nic! I have had a headlight in my tool case for over a year and it has yet to Grace my forehead for the same reason.

Instead, I prefer the germ laden mini flashlight gripped firmly between my teeth.

Besides, it would mess up my "do".

I like to turn the breaker off when I am working on Wall Sockets.

Not sure which is more geeky, a Head Lamp or this:

https://www.safetyonline.com/doc/lite-bite-mini-flashlight-0001

Sounds like a massive amount of add-a-balls awaits you at your next Stop?

Okay Nic,

Artichokes: melted butter or Mayonnaise?

Ahhh. I was thinking you were getting a Bally El Toro?

More a question if Shay or Webb would be willing. But I think you will need to find at least 20 committed buyers for it to proceeded. And just a guess here, due to it's size, expect to pay about double the current price of a normal sized backglass. Therefore, I would think the number just shrank to less than 5 willing to spend $650+ plus shipping (which won't be cheap either!).

Which makes it more a direct print on Plexiglass type project. So maybe BGresto.com?

& Drive on the wrong side of the road.

Multi products used to have a rivet kit for use after cutting open the gearbox. Check with Steve Young at Pinball Resource to see if he is still willing to sell them. I believe he will only do the work in-house now and not sell MP parts.

But I have opened them up before and resealed them with finish machine screws and lock nuts. It all depends on if they have to sit up against any mounting plates.

Mystery Unbelievable-land: AKA "What I did on my 4th of July vacation"?

Pinball AND Italian Food? Dang, wish I lived in Arizona.

Oh, Wait, isn't it like 118 degrees there today? Dry heat is still heat!! And now you have that wonderful Monsoonal Moisture.

I thought they Outlawed Trees in Texas back in the 1800's?

My friend is traveling to Portland this weekend. Said there are no Rental Cars available at all until Tuesday. All the companies over booked and are having to tell people they won't get a car!

As Nic pointed out, just about any meter is fine for EM work, but beware, the really cheap ones can also be misleading as they age and as the battery levels drop. A decent test is to check Volts AC on a known good outlet (110-120VAC) to insure the meter is still reading correctly before trusting what you are getting inside the game.

Even the Freebee from Harbor Freight is okay until its time to throw it away! Just don't pay the $12-$14 normal price on it. The link MikeO pointed to on Amazon looks to be a really good choice for the price.

60/40 lead rosin core is still available on eBay, $18 for a 1 pound roll. Just bought one, generic (no markings at all) but works fine and doesn't have any odd smell.

Consider the Weller solder irons which include LEDs shining on where you work. Greatest invention since the battery powered Dremel. . I think even harbor freight stocks them.

These might work. They are stiff steel brushes designed to clean out the hole in a pace desolder heater where the tip goes. Not cheap but perhaps someone can buy the pack and then split it?

I have some at work. I will have to see how they fit the Jones plug hole.

http://www.newark.com/pace/1127-0006-p5/wire-brush-3-18mm-pk5

Just Google the PACE part number 1127-0006. You will get a number of hits.

Beware of low cost Alligator clip sets! They are typically made of extremely thin, low strand count wire which is "attached" to the clip by simply bending the striped end back over the insulation. They make very poor connections and cannot carry the current of a playfield or stepper coil.

Buy the heavy duty ones. And then dissect them to actually solder the wire to the clip.

Not sure about Amazon. Many and most descriptions are either vague or non-existent.

Here is a pair on eBay that specifies wire guage is 16AWG (some of the cheap ones are 26AWG).

ebay.com link: Pair of Dual Red Black Test Leads with Alligator Clips Jumper Cable

Not speaking for Vid, but the only exposed portion of the switch that carries any current is the contact face. Weather or not the Blade is nice and shinny really doesn't matter other than esthetics. However, one could argue that by leaving the crud that was already there, and the new crud produced by filing the points, this crud can migrate and foul the contact face again.

Vid's comment may also be directed at those that think using Contact Cleaner (a chemical), is necessary. The fact is, it should never be used on a Pinball machine!

Same to you and your Family, Nic!

Many of us have enjoyed your personal adventure this past year and appreciate your taking the time and effort to document it publically here on Pinside.

FWIW, I have been using Finish Line for years now on Bill Acceptor rebuilds.

On a product that uses nylon wheels and Teflon coated axles, even after replacing worn axles, we used to use a tiny drop of oil. Because the oil was necessary to provide enough slip when using new, tight belts so the motor could still maintain proper speed. And, as you know, oil attracts dirt, which was the reason for a tiny drop.

I switched to Finish line instead of the oil and there is far less build up of dust and grime now.

The trick is to spread it around and blow it dry to get rid of the liquid used to propell it out if the can before you seal the lubed portion from air (like placing a wheel or pulley on a shaft).

White Lithium Grease and super lube are far too sticky in many applications (but have their purpose when you don't want the lube to migrate (gears, cams etc)). The Finish Line is a good sub for triflow.

But it would sound so much better to step each one at a different phase and then also do the reset coils on different phases of the score motor.

You could even get super fancy and have the score motor step the first stepper up to it's max limit. Have a Max Limit switch transfer the pulses to the second stepper, have the second stepper's limit switch transfer to the 3rd stepper and then have the 3rd steppers limit switch trigger a reset relay to drive all three reset coils (or reset them off different phases of the score motor cycle ending with the 3rd Stepper which would drop out the Reset Relay.

Would be fun to watch it beat the crap out of the coil stops.

Now, add three bonus ladders of lights attached to each stepper..... just to make it Purdy!

Sadly, I still own a specta IV disassembled and scattered around storage.

My wife Loves the Dole Whip but to get it, she must endure a round of the Tiki, Tiki, Tiki, Tiki Room!

Not saying this is where they were purchased but here is a possible source in quantity:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#90532a100/=1b6l8ql

Did the Star Wars stay working through the whole party?

Certainly looks like what I clean off the carpet when the dogs dinner comes back up!

But no doubt, it's tasty?

Actually, Micky D's often has lines. In fact, they have been adding double drive thru order stations to most if the soi cal locations. For me, its the $2 Mocha Frape's and the $1 large drinks. Rarely buy actual food there.

Carl's should no longer be considered "fast food" as they have extremely long drive through wait times now. And the foods rarely worth the wait.

BK, there are hardly any left down south. Some franchisee converted to El Polo loco instead.

Some things are best savored that way.

Everything in moderation.

Tom, I do love the crunchy remenents at the bottom of the fry boat, cold or not!

I learned long ago, you either love or hate their fries. I happen to like them a lot. But as Tom pointed out, they must be consumed on-site or they are a big disappointment.

I also love McDs fries. But the best is a platter of "steak fries"!

images (resized).jpeg

And you are probably the reason we can't get "normal" fries at Arby's any longer.

Anyone remember "snow shoe" friesat Bullwinkle's? I guess it's about the same as Chick Fila's waffle fries.

I guess Nic has to step in with a Bento Box discussion to get us off fries? And Nic, if you are still paying attention, just found a great Sushi place near home that has some great dinner Bento box platters. So when your in town, we will have to take you!

Asylum? No. Pinball Player's Paradise? Yes.

A very eclectic mix of pins for sure.

Politely discuss the use of colored LEDs?

As I understand it (and I have lived in South Orange county since 1978), while we do recycle our sewer water, it is made relatively safe and then it is used for irrigation (landscaping water) so that it can trickle down through the earth, get filtered, and then reenter our water table. You will see plenty of "purple" irrigation values and regulators around where they are using recycled, non-potable water. So, we have a secondary water supply running through most of our city. We actually have some extremely clean water as far as standards go and I have also been drinking it since 1978. Tastes a lot better than some of the "earthy" waters I have had to brush my teeth with in my travels across the rest of the US!

Its not much different than rain run off from Farmlands and city streets going into the ground only to be pumped back out for use via someone's well.

What Southern Californians need to do is give up our plush Green lawns and replace them with Arizona style landscaping. After all, this was mostly desert here before civilization moved in.

Price was $3895. Maybe we should have charged $5K, it would have allowed us to make more of them.

There was no Chrome used. Stainless Steel.

Ahh. Welcome to the world of "public" game operations! For 25 or 50 cents, they feel they "own" the game. For $1.00, it's theirs to destroy.

Okay, I now have to bring (or pay for) my shopping bags now. They have outlawed styrofoam in many areas in California (which keeps the drinks cold longer).

But leave me my plastic straws. I hate the feel of paper ones.

In our area, We recycle just about everything now. How 'bout the rest of the States catch up. I can't stand it when I travel and no one has even heard of NOT just tossing their plastic water bottles. I am sure just one bottle will make up for quite a few straws.

Playing is what helps keep an EM working. After your thorough overhauls, the only thing to expect are worn parts and high current contacts that will need "resurfacing", not just a pretty polish up. So, a contact file would be my tool of choice. The surface will already be compromised so a somewhat aggressive treatment is in order.

For wear, you will always be replacing phenolic links to remove slop. Smashed plungers for flippers and pop bumpers. And loose or broken coil stops on just about everything possible mech. And eventually, fresh sleeves.

So, I don't think you will need to worry about follow up manicures once you have done your Magic with the games.

Standard LEDs when used for GI are flashing 120 a second. This can cause a strobing effect as the ball crosses at high speed across the playfield. Some people's eyes see it more pronounced than others. And it depends on the amount of ambient light.

Non ghosting can greatly help but still may not eliminate it completely.

WPC power save or fading effects don't usually agree with standard LEDs.

So, we should expect the "Tiki Tiki Tiki Room" someday?

Well, If not, at least get a Dole Whip machine!

Collecting bonus is not a thing you can "cleanly" do with the ball still rolling around on the playfield. You have to trap the ball, let the process occur, and then release the ball.

Otherwise, you have things like 500 points ect. Stepping in halfway through an active motor cycle. Knocking down targets that have already been scanned as "not down". ......

You could repurpose the 8 ball kick out hole.