(Topic ID: 257547)

Help me get my No Good Gofers working- battery damage and blowing fuse 102 & 104

By shirkle

4 years ago


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  • 46 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by pinmike
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    #2 4 years ago

    Look for that fuse in the manual and see which coil it controls.Could be a bad transistor on the board

    #5 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    Sorry...I just edited my original post. I listed the wrong fuse.

    No problem do you have the manual for the game?

    #7 4 years ago

    Remember pull the fuses out when testing with meter

    1 week later
    #19 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    I noticed that although I replaced the bad transistor (Q42- for the middle pop bumper) and the fuse is no longer blowing, the middle pop bumper still doesn’t work.
    Would this likely be a bad diode associated with Q42?

    Does it register in switch test?

    #21 4 years ago

    Sorry i should have asked you this with the first question,does that bumper coil fire in coil test?

    #23 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    No, it is not firing in test either.

    Ok check the fuse again,i see on your previous post that you replaced it but pull it out and test with meter.If the fuse tests good then test the transistor that drives that bumper coil on the driver board.Also there's a pre drive transistor

    Things to check
    1.fuse
    2.diodes on coil
    3.coil resistance
    4.main transistor on driver board
    5.pre drive transistor on driver board(It's the one with a black tab with 3 legs

    #26 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:1. Fuse is good. Just tested it out of circuit, plus the other coils associated with it are firing.
    2. No diodes on coil- they're on the driver board for WPC 95 games....that's the diode I was asking about a couple posts ago. I have some on hand so I can try replacing it.
    3. I'l have to read up on how to test coil resistance. I've never had to do that.
    4. Replaced this a few days ago because it tested bad. Should be good now.
    5. I can't figure out which one goes to this coil. Do you know?
    Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

    That's ok no need to test diode i forgot that WPC-95 has no diodes on coil,Do you have the manual?The manual will tell you which transistor on the driver board is for that pop bumper coil.

    to test coil resistance you do NOT have to remove the coil or the wires on the coil lugs.To test coil resistance-Power off game
    Set meter to ohms/lowest resistance setting.Then put the meters red and black probes on each coil's lugs, A resistance of 2 ohms or greater should be seen if not then there's something wrong

    #28 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    Looking thought the manual I was able to located the main transistor (Q42), but not the pre drive transistor that you mentioned. I replaced Q42.
    I'll check coil resistance tomorrow- I didn't know it was that easy.

    Ok when you post back your findings we will test the transistor..

    #30 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    When testing the coil, I got a reading of right around 2 ohms, but the other two coils for the other pop bumpers were around 12 ohms, which seems closer to what the links above referenced for this coil (AE 26-1200). Does that sound like the issue?

    No,On any coils a reading of 2ohms or higher is good

    #31 4 years ago

    locate the the transistor on the driver board,the manual will help locating it.it will have the letter Q with 2 numbers

    More info i just read your above post and you stated Q42 here's a quick test

    To test transistor quick test 95% accurate-power off game!!
    1.set meter on continuity setting
    2.place black probe to ground(Gray strap in backbox)
    3.touch the transistor tab with red probe
    4.if the meter beeps when touching red probe to the tab of transistor it means that transistor has shorted/bad/faulty

    #33 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    across the legs as well (black probe on metal tab, red on each outside leg) and got 0.4-0.6 on the legs, so I assume it's good.

    To measure the transistor on the legs the meter would have to be in diode setting

    #35 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    It was. My cheapo meter doesn't have a continuity setting, so I set it to diode when testing for continuity as well. I figured since I was poking around in there, I might as well test the transistor itself.

    Ok just making sure

    #38 4 years ago

    That's low it should be 2 ohms or higher

    #40 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    I’ll have to order one. Don’t have any of those around.
    Would it hurt to swap it with one of the other pop bumper coils just to test it?

    No it shouldn't hurt anything since the pop bumper coils are the same,go ahead give a shot and take some pics if you have to so you'll know how everything goes back especially the wires that are soldered on those coils.

    #42 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    It’s finally saving settings, which is good because I was getting tired of changing the language every time I turned it on.

    That's good and yes that is a pain in the ass to keep changing it over and over.

    #44 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    Well, the new coil didn’t fix it.

    ok let's test the pre-drive transistor it would be on the driver board,The location would be in the manual in the same spot of the main Q42 transistor.
    the pre-drive transistor is a small black tab with 3 legs

    #46 4 years ago
    Quoted from shirkle:

    Thanks. I’ll dig into it later. I don’t have a schematic, so I’ll try to trace it back. I believe the president-driver transistor is Q34, but I’ll check.

    Ok

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