Xenon
Bally, 1980Hi Whridlsoncestood, you don't have a scan of your playfield covering all the large area of red and from below the chin down to the "Xenon Bonus"? I'm going to make a decal to restore my playfield in this area where I have quite a bit of wear and restoration. It would save me quite a bit of work with my trusty Paint Shop Pro if I could start with a cleaner scan than I would get from a scan of my playfield.
Cheers
Not a problem to get. You just have to wait until I'm done clearcoating for the scan to look right. Should be a week or so.
That's really kind of you, there's definitely no hurry, I'm going to start with my apron which looks a bit sad too, but should be easy to touch up with Paint Shop Pro. I'll make a donation to Pinside on your behalf and post a picture of my Xenon when I've finished. Looking forward to see how your Xenon looks when it's complete.
Started to place my orders. First my go to place is Steve Young over at pinball resource. He even found me the left flipper return ball rail that was broken on mine. Only 1.58$!
Bolts 3/8x16x2 1/2. 8 of them
Levelers 3” Stem. 4 of them.
Bally Xenon Caps. 4 of them.
GTB-8997. Pop bumper bodies. 4 of them.
A1218B. Pop bumper skirts blue. 4 of them.
B10432W. Pop bumper base white. 4 of them.
GTB-A10430. Pop bumper centering springs. 4 of them.
GTB-21643. Pop bumper return springs. 4 of them.
#131 Pop bumper light sockets-solid leads. 4 of them.
#PM60A. Insulator for light socket leads. 8 of them.
Ball 116. 2 of them.
Sleeve BLY standard 1 5/8. 14 of them.
Sleeve N. 1 of them.
ADJ. Switch adjuster tool.
Rubber Rings White
RIN 3 1/2. 1 of them
RIN2 1/2. 4 of them.
RIN 2. 1 of them.
RIN 1 1/2. 2 of them.
RIN 1. 1 of them.
RIN 3/4. 2 of them.
RIN 5/16. 3 of them.
RIN MPR mini post rubber. 5 of them.
RIN PTW plubger tip. 1 of them.
RIN WFY. Yellow flipper rubber. 2 of them.
MPU-ULT-LAMP. Altek ultimate lamp driver board. 1 of them.
FUS-1A-SB. 1 of them.
FUS-1A. 1 of them.
FUS-4A. 1 of them.
FUS-5A. 1 of them.
FUS-20A. 1 of them.
FUS-HLDR-SNAP. Fuse holder for underplayfild. 3 of them. Individual.
Next was planetary pinball
Xenon Stamped Drop Target A-3944 Set/4 Pending 1 $22.00 $22.00
Xenon Spinner Decal Set/2 Laminated Pending 1 $4.00 $4.00
Working on finishing my marcospec order and pinball rescue.
Ordered some LEDs and switches on eBay for post and flipper lights
Once I start re assembling I will order new LEDs all around from cointaker
Have you seen this?
ebay.com link: itm
Nothing exciting happening the past few days. Just having some issues with the decals. I had one printed up nicely on a clear background of just the text and tried that. No luck as the red becomes to translucent over the black background.
Made one up on white decal paper with the black around it printed to make on solid piece in between the legs. All the edges where you cut the decal end up showing up white. Scratched that plan.
Made up some templates just cutting out the text on some vinyl I had lying around from my days of dyeing disc golf discs. Applied and painted text and am touching up the edges now. One more pass after this bit dries. I'm done with touch ups now. Full on clear coating starts tomorrow morning.
Time to make some good progress. PBR order will be here tomorrow as well. Got the e mail from UPS saying so this morning. Called PBR with the order Friday afternoon and its on my doorstep Monday? I love it. I will probably start disassembling all the mechs tomorrow and cleaning/rebuilding in between coats of clear.
Trying to decided on how I want to do the tube shot. Leave the tube clear and go with a blue LED strip and some blue EL wire up the ramp? Almost feels like too much blue with all the light up blue star posts and blue flippers.
Was thinking add some red to the color scheme of lighting. I could try a red LED light strip and red tube and red el wire up the ramp? Or red light stip clear tube and red EL wire on ramp? Or red tube. Blue light strip and ? el wire? I can't decided. Too many combo's. I could do a blue tube as well in any of these combo's. Any thoughts?
Loving the milk and cheese disc too. I would buy a set of these discs with the cool/fun graphics on them...neat idea.
Also the clash 
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Just having some issues with the decals.
This is really great work. You have more patience than I do. It looks like the machine will be really nice when you're done.
I have some wear spots on my Police Force, and need some scan's or decent photos of those area; so I can do the same as is being done here with the Xenon decals.
If anyone can possible help me with my PF scans, let me know.
Robert
No scans of that game. Find me some one near me and I can make some 
I love coming home to packages.
Was expecting he PBR one but was pleased to see my LED's for my star post lighting arrived. They are set up to run off 12V. Test one out with a 9V battery. Should work out very nicely
Just noticed the photo's make the blue look not as nice of a blue as in person.
PBR order. 2 little mistakes. Nothing big and I'm sure Steve will straighten it right out in no time.
Alltek board is to run LED's in the game. Older Bally's have a problem with flickering how they run the lamp drivers. No matrixes. Could of been done by putting diodes on every driver on the stock board or get the Alltek for 99. Could of saved myself 90 bucks but its always nice having good new reliable boards.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Was expecting he PBR one but was pleased to see my LED's for my star post lighting arrived. They are set up to run off 12V. Test one out with a 9V battery. Should work out very nicely
Where did you get the Leds from?
eBay. Package came from China. 50 Blue 3mm LED's with wire leads with resistor already installed in lead to run off 12V. 10.99 shipped. Much cheaper than 50 Cointaker post lights at 5.99 a piece. Still need to pick up a power source but shouldn't cost me nearly the difference.
All the mechs are completely disassembled. They are soaking in some Bleche-White right now. Re-assembly up next with new sleeves and other maintenance parts. Still waiting for the new drops from planetary. The drop target bank is a beast in this game with all the coils in it.
Some before pics.
The good, the bad and the ugly would make a great pin. That's a re theme that needs to be done. Who's willing to re theme a cactus canyon? 
Got late and didn't have time to re assemble everything. There is always tomorrow. Did shoot another coat of clear before I called it a night.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:All the mechs are completely disassembled.
And you thought being OCD was going to be a hindrance...
I'm enjoying your progress.
Robert
Yes I'm clearing in my office. Varathane is not like spraying auto clear. I do have fans venting out windows too help tho. I'm getting addicted to the smell of Varathane now I want to clear every pinball machine I come in contact with.
I'm getting OCD with everything. Might not get too much progress until next Monday. Then I have two weeks to go non stop on this thing. Need to get the last of my orders in this week
Just made my Marcia order and my switches for the flipper lighting came in today. Planetary pinball order also shipped out today too. Next week should be fun
Final coat of clear went on and will let it cure until next week before I wetsand and buff it to a shine.
Button - flipper red transparent 2
Rubber post cap - white 20
Shooter spring green .033" med. tension 1
Ball shooter rod - blue transparent 1
Spring - barrel ball shooter outer 1
XENON (Bally) playfield plastic set 1
Mini post 6-32 thread 2
Flipper & shaft - Bally <1987 blue trans
Ball shooter sleeve 1
Post - star blue transparent 1-3/16" 30
Bushing - flipper Bally (early) 3
Spring - flipper return extension 3
Just made my Cointaker order
32 44/47 BLUE RETRO
43 44/47 COOL WHITE FROSTED
20 44/47 WARM WHITE FROSTED
21 44/47 BLUE FROSTED
24 44/47 GREEN FROSTED
14 44/47 RED FROSTED
And Pinball Rescue order.
1 Susan B Anthony Bally coin door decal. Part I.D. BLY-CD2
1 Bally apron decal for Xenon. Part I.D. BLY-AD-80-XENON
Whridls, curious what your thoughts/plans are concerning the various types & colors of the 44/47 LED's. Did you purposely buy a variety so you can tinker with them, trying them in different spots, etc.? Which ones do you plan to use where? I haven't installed any LED's yet in mine.
You've put up some excellent posts w/ pics to help clarify & summarize. Very helpful, and interesting to read.
Bet you can't wait to hear your Xenon saying things like "Aahhh" and "try me again", and to see the cool light show!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:All the mechs are completely disassembled. They are soaking in some Bleche-White right now.
Is Bleche-White all you use to clean the metal up? I looked further down in the thread, the drop assemblies look great. I usually spend a lot of time on the buffing wheel to get that appearance. Soaking something sounds much less painful!
Bleche white was what was used for cleaning all mechs. Worked rather well. Not as nice as polishing but nothing is dirty anymore. No more coil dust on anything.
LEDs are mostly just white under the plastics. Color matched under the inserts and key colors on backglass. Few key GI colored LEDs. Sticking at mostly white on plastics since since there are so many other color light mods. Don't want this to be a rainbow eyesore!
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Yes I'm clearing in my office. Varathane is not like spraying auto clear. I do have fans venting out windows too help tho. I'm getting addicted to the smell of Varathane now <img src="/bbpress/my-plugins/bb-smilies/pinside/icon_smile.gif" title="
I'm getting OCD with everything. Might not get too much progress until next Monday. Then I have two weeks to go non stop on this thing. Need to get the last of my orders in this week
Looking good - can't wait to see the PF after final coat and sanding. +1 on clearing in the house, my wife would kill me if I tried that
Looks great! I'm impressed by your touchup and decal work. One suggestion I'd make is to replace the diodes on your coils while you have them out of the game. The reason I'd suggest this is that I recently finished a Flash Gordon playfield swap and had 2 diodes fail after putting everything back together. I used Bleche White and a toothbrush to clean all my coil and metal parts (which worked great!) but I must have damaged a couple of the old diodes in the process? Anyway, 5 minutes of work and a dollar worth of diodes could save you some potential frustration in the future. Good luck the rest of the way. I'm sure it will turn out great!
Hmm very impressed with your touchup technique scanning instead of brush touching Im going to have to start incorperating that method myself I can get as nice but what a massive pain painting it when it can be scanned and pasted lol. would save alot of work matching the colors as well.
The new 2 led frosted leds would prolly work the best in the bally PF inserts as well for you smad and clear lens leds dont look that good in clear insert i had to manualy frost all my leds when i built my machine to smooth out the light flow actualy in future pf restorations i will be frosting the inserts by airbrushing the inserts with dullcoat clear it gives the inserts a frosted look like ice which would compliment the illumination of your star posts becouse using a single 3mm led will give them a icey look.
When installing these leds drill 1/8" hole on the side of the post you will see and agle drill it @ about 50 degrees away from the screw hole as not to comprimise the screw hole and clear the threaded inserts under some of the posts.
Even with your altec board you will have some flickering issues with the insert leds I dont even run altecs you just need to jumper the switched lead on the socket to the socket base or ground wire with a 1.5k resistor to eliminate the flickering and lock on the scr you can do 100 sockets for only $1.60 but on a bally you dont need to resisitor all sockets just the ones affected. which on this machine will be the blue xenon 2x, 4x white inserts the 2 large blue inserts above it and the white outlane arrows most likly the opaque red bonus inserts and the 3 orange x inserts also all 4 drop target indicator leds.
i experimented with the tube alot dont buy a colored tube it will become a large blind spot best way to color it will be to buy a clear one and use tinted or color film to maintain transparency.
I plan on replacing all the cut caps on the switches as well. Good tip on coils as well. How long did you let your coils dry out for before powering then up? Mine will be about 2 weeks so it should be fine I'm guessing
I went with a clear tube after going back and forth. I will re wire the light strip behind it red and have red el wire on the ramp. That should be enough extra color in that department
I went with frosted on insert bulbs like I did with my hulk. Works great with these old inserts. I went with some blue retros on the infinity lighting around the backbox. Blue looks so good but want to keep the look of original bulbs around it
Thanks for the bit size on those 3mm LEDs. I was going to figure that out next. Saves me a step. U also was looking at that angle to avoid all the t nuts.
1.5k resistors? I knew there was a way to do it to avoid flickering. So it's just a resistor going between the two socket leads? That's it? I might give it a try and sell off the alltek if in happy with the results. The altek isn't a bad price but it is about 1/10 of what I has into this project
After cleaning my coils I dried them with a towel and then hit them with the air compressor and then let them sit a good 2-3 weeks before installing them and powering them up. I think you'd be fine with 2 weeks as long as you're in a somewhat dry environment.
None of my caps were cut but I do still have intermittent pop bumper and slingshot coil firings and was debating whether or not to put a cap across my flipper EOS switches to hopefully stop the problem and also suppress the spark. Are you planning to do this? Also, where did you source and what model caps are you planning to install on your switches? I may order some of these at the same time.
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Portishead
Meriden, CT
