Easy guy, I was just adding something to the conversation that I’m familiar with. I’ve only worked with mil-std connectors cause I’m in defense. I only mentioned the cost, because it’s a fact. I didn’t express an opinion on said cost.

it's the most expensive but most rewarding hobby i ever had.
Sometimes i buy a part that you really wouldn't need, but when it is worth to you then go for it. You spend a lot of money, might as well make it pretty

Out of the many things required in homebrewing, some people do find fun in re-designing certain things to lower cost. It's a hobby that can scratch a million different interests.

But it is kinda funny which battles we pick and choose. Like I'm not designing a controller, so I have a lot of P3ROC boards. I see the value in the time that saves me. But I'm going to make my own custom stadium lightning because the effort level is low compared to the markup.

Some people make their own ball guide lanes in a 3D printer. Go for it! It's only a $12 for a pair of them, or you can re-draw them and let it print over night for a few dollars of filament. Some people like making their own 3D printed drop target mechs. I think the Elf guy even lathed the metal pins for his design.

It's all about the thrill of the build

I’m toying with the idea of using Deans micro connectors found on radio controlled vehicles for coils for easy swapping around on test builds. The downside is 3x the soldering…

Deeproot had some interesting plug choices for the same end of circuit connections but procuring them ended up being too complicated. Typical of most anything Deeproot touched…

Interesting idea… would you still use a wood core and wrap with composite? I would think you’d still want a wood core to provide some dampening and provide depth for underside mounting. I have some pure composite skis and they chatter like no other.

Was tossing around the idea of carbon fiber spinners. For those of us that really want to rip those spinners.

In theory you could mold contouring for ramp transitions, ramps, or berms. I don’t know if you’d need a prepreg layup, or if the clear could be applied evenly.

I have a lot of ideas, but a lot of them are code ideas. I was thinking of a P3 mini-game where you travel between different islands and buy and sell different goods with an eye on making a profit on the exchange. Let's see what else I've got written down in my ideas text file...

"Combine Demolition Man handles with the addams family shocker grips"

My past self is a genius! I am of course talking about the shocking grips from the Addams Family novelty game, not the pinball machine. See here if you're not familiar:

It vibrates in such a way that it feels like your hands are being shocked with electricity, which is the same technique those joy buzzer handshakes use. According to wikipedia those prank chewing gum things use real electricity though.

I tried to put haptic mini-shaker in the cab next to the flipper buttons but the wood absorbed the vibration. If I ever try it again I will have to isolate the buttons on their own gasketed panel.

I added a random 'shocker' to my Addams Family remake a few years back. The player is randomly shocked by the flipper buttons whenever 'The Power' is active. It's a virtual game so hard to reproduce the effect. But, like shaker motors, we have to use a bit more creativity to sell any physical effect virtually.

It would be a fun feature to add to a real pinball machine, and I'm sure someone will figure it out.

Are you going to test the carbon overlay before going all in on the next game? I’m curious about it.. typically it’s the clear that’s an issue lately with dimpling - not the wood so much - at least that’s my perception. A carbon layer may absorb and disburse impact but I suspect it may flex more than wood and have potential to crack the clear? Just musing .. worth some tests tho I’d imagine before counting on it. But if it’s an improvement in the end, that would be cool to see

So in my attempt to reinvent the wheel I eliminated the side strips from my playfield. Hey that’s an extra inch of real estate right there. Only I didn’t factor in the structural value they add…

So I am going the carbon laminate route. Again tech stolen from back in my R/C days. Some 1/2” strips epoxied on both edge sides should create the I-beam effect needed to get those needed numbers back on track.

I wonder if right angle steel members along the edges of the playfield would be enough structural support. The playfield would need to be slightly more narrow

Quick, not-at-all-to-scale sketch

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I did think of that as well but I have playfield supports that might get in the way of any underside placement. It is possible to recess with routing I suppose. The complicating factor with any angle is my ball guides go to the edge and will be secured to the side of playfield. The struggle is real…

This trick was done by Baywatch, thin metal guides instead of wood strips to give some more usable playfield real estate:

Baywatch (resized).png

This worked well for me on Greek Gods homebrew. I had to carve out a few offsets and drill a few holes for mounting the rails.

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Here's a good resource in a knowledge base, videos and courses for composites. It's 3 brothers building an experimental aircraft kit completely out of composites and doing all the molding and assembly themselves. They have a really great level of transparency to all their work.

https://www.darkaero.com/

I have a Baywatch and never really noticed this! Interesting…..