(Topic ID: 8545)

newbie learned a lesson

By PHABIT

9 years ago


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  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by SealClubber
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    #1 9 years ago

    Been reading the forum for over a year and finally bought my first Pin. Bought a RoadShow from a private seller who told me the game worked 100 %. I play the game for a little and because it was very worn overall we make a deal and I take it home . I only played it for a few mins and it seemed fine.

    Playing it for the first time at its new home and 15 mins in the game starts resetting itself in play. I launch the ball and soon as it hits a target or i hit the flipper game resets. Did this three times in a row

    So having automotive background I decide to start looking at the ribbion connectors to see if any loosened on the journey to me basement. I carefully remove all connector on boards in the head box and reseat all of them .

    I power up the game and see a fuse blow on the right side board. 2nd fuse from the top. It was a 3 amp. So I change the fuse and power up the game and see the same fuse start to glow. I shut it right down thinking I have a short or excessive draw in the circuit. I examine the fuse it looks fine and reinstall it. I power it up again the fuse does not glow or blow this time ,but the DMD is all scatter lights. Game will not boot. Thinking one of the pins might have been bent when I first checked the ribbion connectors I recheck and they are all seated correctly.

    Just a note I also noted the transformer in the front of the game mUst be bad b\c they is some hardware device spliced into it. It almost looks like and secondary power supply. its the size of a wireless router and have no idea if this has something to do with this issue or not

    I feel like a total idiot buying this game now. I bought it as is. Just wondering if you guys can give me an idea where to start. Thought i try myself before looking for a repair guy .Appreciate your help

    #2 9 years ago

    sorry to hear that. Pretty sure that additional power supply is not supposed to be there.
    I would start by testing the voltage output at all the transformer's lugs to ensure that it is indeed working or not. Can you upload a pic of this device?
    Where are you located?
    PM me your email address and I will send you the WPC pinrepair guide.

    #3 9 years ago

    Well, my HS2 had similar issue with popping of fuse (one of the flasher circuits) so free ride and other lights wouldn't work nor the beacon. Swapped out LED's weeks after buying as excuse to do a full cleaning and found a hairpin clip wedged in bulb socket end. Was the cause of all of it.

    Hopefully you'll confirm a similar easy fix! Hang in there. It will be worth it when you fix it yourself.

    #4 9 years ago

    I would suggest starting to read online manuals on how to repair that particular game. I wouldn't get so upset about what you have there. It's a cool game and you should be able to fix it with some research and you will learn a lot in the process.

    #5 9 years ago
    Quoted from dnhayden:

    I would suggest starting to read online manuals on how to repair that particular game. I wouldn't get so upset about what you have there. It's a cool game and you should be able to fix it with some research and you will learn a lot in the process.

    Yep ,listen to dnhayden. Trust when I say all pins have issues, anyone who says different is lying!

    Jim

    #6 9 years ago

    Well you aren't alone. I'm set to receive my first pin ever on Monday morning. Should be interesting.

    #7 9 years ago

    Man, I feel you. I bought an unshopped Paragon recently and wham fuses were blowing and I was really doubting myself. Give it a couple days, and I promise you, you'll probably have the game running and a whole lot more perspective on the challenges you face now.

    #8 9 years ago

    Glad to hear I have people on my side. I think its a great hobby and loved the game for the whole 15 mins it worked...lol

    I appreciate the advice. I tried to upload the pics of the transformer device and the fuse area that blow first , then glowed. It was the second down from the top fuse.

    381.JPG 383.JPG

    #9 9 years ago

    Looks like a switching power supply?

    Does it have 5v and 12v only?

    #10 9 years ago

    Just took another look at it and yes it has a 5v and 12v terminals on that supply box. Only the 5 v terminals are being used. Do that mean the transformer is bad?

    #11 9 years ago

    not necessarily, will have to test it.

    #12 9 years ago

    When I first brought my Baywatch home, my girlfriend and i literally played her to death in a matter of hours. We played the machine 7 hrs straight the first night (9pm-4am) and then in the morning for about 3 hrs before "Pam" tapped out. I bet that game hadn't seen that much action since it was back in England(It's a re-import). When we stopped playing we were manually popping the ball up to the shooter lane.
    After further inspection through the shopping process I noticed both up kickers on the game had coil brackets that were broken and hacked with zip ties to hold them in place among other things. There are numerous board issues that still need to be addressed.
    After owning this game for several months I have had it working fantastic all the way to the way she sits now with two balls in the shooter lane and unplugged. These machines are finicky as hell and they take a lot of patience, but can be very rewarding when you realize that you have the power to bring them back to life.

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from PHABIT:

    I power up the game and see a fuse blow on the right side board. 2nd fuse from the top. It was a 3 amp

    What is the location of that fuse that is blowing?There can be a number of
    things that can cause resets but you need to narrow down the problem.

    #14 9 years ago
    Quoted from PHABIT:

    Just took another look at it and yes it has a 5v and 12v terminals on that supply box. Only the 5 v terminals are being used. Do that mean the transformer is bad?

    That switching power supply only supplies 5 or 12v and that's not enough to run all the solenoids and high voltage devices on the game. Generally used in video games for joystick/button switches and lights only.

    In other words, I'm not sure why it's there but the transformer must still be working at least partly or you wouldn't have been able to play it the first few times. Determine what board that fuse is on, then look at the WPC schematic and determine what it controls and work back from there.

    #15 9 years ago

    I think based on your picture/description the fuse is on the power board and is fuse 112.

    Shorted coil can cause F101-F105 and F112 to blow.

    Look for a shorted coil, if it is in fact F112, and if it is, everything I'm finding is saying that should be a 7A SB fuse, not a 3A. See if your backbox has a fuse diagram and verify the type and amperage before sticking a higher rating in there, I'm going off fuzzy pictures here.

    #16 9 years ago

    When you are checking the voltage, you can adjust it on that switching powr supply. That white knob on there adjusts the voltage output. I would remove it and get that thing back to original, do it right.

    #17 9 years ago

    Just an updated. Mystic, Yes you are correct it is fuse 112. On the power driver booard. I put the correct 7 a fuse in the holder just now and it blew soon as I powered the game. So I am thinking I have a shorted coil? I did look at all of the coils and moved the rods to make sure they were not binding. From what the diagram says that fuse controls the solenoid secondary circuit.

    Is my next move to back probe each coil with a volt\ohm meter, Using the ohm meter I would back probe each coil to see what one is shorted?

    Not ready to tackle the switching box. The game works with it installed. I agree it should not be there and will take it out after i figure this out

    Thanks guys for all the help

    #18 9 years ago

    Is the box an amplifier for the sound. I know some people with a system like that. Where do the wires go? At first I thought possibly a line filter (late year for that), but possibly it's for aftermarket sound.

    #19 9 years ago

    The game was probably resetting due to the +5v being low so they installed the switching power supply. You'll have to figure out if that is what they did, probably fix the reset problems (bridge, caps, etc.), then hook everything back up correctly. The transformer is probably fine but it wouldn't hurt to test it before you start pulling things apart.

    The blowing fuse could be a shorted coil or a shorted transistor. You'll have to do some testing and digging to figure out which.

    #20 9 years ago

    Don't feel bad about getting a home machine, we all have that sinking feeling the first time a machine has an issue. These are not like cars, everything can be fixed and they still have their value even if they aren't working 100%. Some of the best machines we buy are the ones that have sat broken for years in someone's basement. I haven't come across a 80's or 90's machine yet that doesn't have some "creative" repair.

    #21 9 years ago

    Just took another look at the voltage switching box they installed next to the transformer. Their are two wires that look factory. one is white / red stripe going to terminal TP2 on the power drive board and the other wire is green/ white or yellow strip to TP7 on the same board.

    Anyone know what these terminals do?

    #22 9 years ago

    Just to clarify its TP7 not the 20 v terminal. They have the wire attached to the ground terminal under the 20v terminal. So basically they are powering the board using 5 v with this switching box.... Now the question is why?

    #23 9 years ago

    Like I said, they are using the switching PS because they were getting resets due to the 5v being low. You need to repair the 5v section of the PDB.

    #24 9 years ago

    Okay, I was wondering if maybe I had a european game. I always noticed on start up I have all soild red led lights on the board. I think some are suppose to blink ?

    #25 9 years ago
    Quoted from stangbat:

    The blowing fuse could be a shorted coil or a shorted transistor.

    +1,The first thing to do is to locate that coil that is blowing the fuse,If you
    look in the manual it will tell you.Test that coil with a meter to check the
    resistence the reading should be 2ohms or higher anything less than that
    indicates a bad coil or the diode on that coil is bad.Do this first so you can
    rule out the coil before moving on to the transistor.

    For future reference it is always a good idea to test all the coils before
    powering up your game.

    #26 9 years ago
    Quoted from PHABIT:

    I feel like a total idiot buying this game now. I bought it as is.

    I can't help you, but I know the people here can. I know how you feel with my first mess. Don't feel bad. If nothing else you will learn so much by the time you are done, this pin is worth gold to you. It sucks, but buying your first pin is the hardest pin to buy in my opinion. Good luck.

    #27 9 years ago

    I talked to PHABIT on the phone earlier and it seems after some fiddling around etc its back up and running - still has the weird voltage regulator in it, but from what I was gathering it was blowing the fuse when the playfield was up on the rails - could be a short some how when the metal rails are touching the lock bar area or possibly a wire harness issue.

    I went thru some basic test menus over the phone and all seemed good.

    PHABIT - let us know what you discover and if your still getting reset problems, next up fix the hacks and get her cleaned up.

    #28 9 years ago

    If you still think it might be an import, not sure about B/W games, but most DE games have the country listed on the silver box to the bottom right inside the cabinet. I have a DE game and it clearly says it was a game meant for Spain. Not sure if this helps at all for you situation, but it might help.

    To me it does sound like a reset issue (loss of 5volts). I would try to get it back to "stock" and then start dealing with B/W reset issues to rule things out.

    Good Luck.

    #29 9 years ago

    Don't B/W export pins have an "I" as the 5th digit of the serial number?

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