(Topic ID: 234696)

Newbie In A Confused Whirlwind

By Tnord

5 years ago


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WW drop target assembly.png
WW potential corrosion (resized).png
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#1 5 years ago

Bought a Whirlwind that had no lights in the display at all. Figured out the power board was not right, ordered and installed a new one. Now I have random symbols as seen in the pic. I have tested the 4 wire power supply from the power board to the display board on the board itself at the soldered pins on the back (as shown in pic) and they show the correct -100, 100, and 5 volts. I have reversed the 26 wire cable, tested all 26 wires at the female connector for continuity and all good. Not sure what to do next.

Also cannot get a free game to start. I'm guessing and hoping because it is not set to free play mode anymore? The batteries were pulled and replaced when I got the machine. Sure would like to play 1 game on this machine even if I don't know my score lol.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

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#2 5 years ago

If you pretend you're a quarter and activate the switch to put credits on the game will it start a game?
I suspect it probably isn't booting. Pinwiki can help you figure out how far it's getting and what to do next.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#MPU_boot_issues

#3 5 years ago

Freeplay is a setting which, like all settings, needs a power source so the machine remembers it. Once you pulled the batteries (with the machine turned off, I assume) you lost all your settings.

#4 5 years ago

How do the headers look? Any cracked or cold solder joints?

On the ribbon cable the red stripe indicates pin 1 - Make sure both red stripes on each end of the cable are alligned the same way at the very least.

Pretty confident you just need to get displays working to see what you are doing to change it back to free play. Will be adj 23.

#5 5 years ago

when turning on the game, what do the 3 leds on the mpu do? i recently had a Pin with a corrupt u26 cause a similar issue.

#6 5 years ago
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#7 5 years ago

I would say you either have battery corrosion under the battery holder or some faulty chips on your display board.

#8 5 years ago

Thanks for the ideas. I’m going to check that ribbon orientation first.

The leds are : outside 2 solid, middle blinking.

I’m not sure what you mean by headers. The learning curve here can be intimidating but I like solving puzzles lol

#9 5 years ago

Can you remove the ribbon cable and take a better picture of the battery pack area, including the area above it? Looks like there is some battery leakage/corrosion. If so, this is related to the problem.
WW potential corrosion (resized).pngWW potential corrosion (resized).png

#10 5 years ago

IT WAS THE RIBBON CABLE TWISTED!!!!!!!! So jacked! Completist Set to free play and finally sent to bed about 2 am after playing games.

Now the list is: the extra ball drop target does not work, and the fan on the box doesn't run. The skill shot drop target that is closest to the flippers of the 3 when hit drops real slow, and doesn't always reset for the next player. I'll do my reading but man, you all had me up and running in 1 day!

#11 5 years ago

Still waiting to see a better picture above and below the battery area. I sure would like knowing that is it not damaged.

#12 5 years ago

I have a bad optical sensor on the single top drop target for the extra ball. Its the black one. Where do I order that sensor or the whole board? Thanks..

I will try and get picks of the heads up tonight also.

#13 5 years ago

BTW my high score so far is 14,900,000 something. machine is getting worked by the family thanks again.

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from Tnord:

I have a bad optical sensor on the single top drop target for the extra ball. Its the black one. Where do I order that sensor or the whole board? Thanks..
I will try and get picks of the heads up tonight also.

Pinballlife and Marcospecialties often have the parts you will need.

#15 5 years ago

Optical sensors may appear to be bad, but sometimes the optics aren’t lined up or there may be dirt or something else blocking the path.

#16 5 years ago

The Opto is #5490-12451-00, a U-shaped all in one transmitter/receiver part. An internet search shows you can buy it multiple places.

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=D2lOXNWiMcbEsAW7_qWgBg&q=5490-12451-00&btnK=Google+Search&oq=5490-12451-00&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1197.1197..1593...0.0..0.77.77.1......0....2j1..gws-wiz.....0.N2RuCb30usY

WW drop target assembly.pngWW drop target assembly.png
#17 5 years ago

Thanks. The one that is on the board is 2 separate pieces, but I see the replacement is the black U.

#18 5 years ago

I know this one is bad because on the black side, one of the wire posts is broke off the little black rectangle. The weird thing is, the target is always up at the start of the ball, but even if the drop target is down after lighting the extra ball, if you roll over the dropped target and hit the rebound rubber, it will award the extra ball sometimes. I can't see why it would register that hit with no drop target, and I do not see a sensor behind the rebound rubber.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you remove the ribbon cable and take a better picture of the battery pack area, including the area above it? Looks like there is some battery leakage/corrosion. If so, this is related to the problem.
[quoted image]

Finally got that pic. Kids, and me, have been playing it hard. Thank you pinballmanicac40

IMG_0249 (resized).jpgIMG_0249 (resized).jpg
#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Tnord:

Finally got that pic. Kids, and me, have been playing it hard. Thank you pinballmanicac40[quoted image]

Get one of these so you will not have to worry about the batteries leaking and damaging the board:

https://www.pinballlife.com/remote-battery-holder-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-machines.html

#21 5 years ago

Still not the best picture, but someone did replace U41 and U42 already, and like it was from battery leakage/corrosion. It is really hard to tell in the picture about some of the parts surrounding those two if thee was any other damage. Need to have someone look it over better.

My vote will always be to remove the batteries and get NVRAM installed. If you're not up to board soldering, have a friend that can do it?
https://www.pinitech.com/products/6116_nvram.php

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