(Topic ID: 269236)

Newbie Here, playing board question


By K-Team

13 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by chas10e
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 6 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

92FC4386-C413-4C90-82F7-9EAF06311C34 (resized).jpeg
3CEAB273-113C-41B1-8EA3-EEA158CF4E05 (resized).jpeg
FE0897ED-75AC-4059-8403-647B51F18150 (resized).jpeg
9F4655C0-9846-4D53-A57D-A6AE1ED5F57F (resized).jpeg
BB701AE1-DE3D-4CCE-A9AA-63864FE0C690 (resized).jpeg
10429529-F9AA-4E1B-87D6-0039C4120296 (resized).jpeg

#1 13 days ago

I've got a NGG Williams and a switch went out (47 I believe) Looking at the under side is pretty scary and nerve racking for me. I love fixing things and figuring things out but I hate messing extra things up in the process haha. I've done all of the schematic research etc and I know where I'm looking for the switch (also did a bunch of the tests with the manual to determine that it should indeed just be the one switch) and have it ordered. My newb question is - When I go and take off the glass then lift the play board up, Do I have to disconnect any of the wires inside the front door before hand? I'm not taking the board out all the way just a quick lift it up, put the arm up for support then grabbing the switch and putting a new one in. I'm worried I will go to lift the board and rip multiple things.

#2 13 days ago

Shouldn't need to disconnect anything to move the playfield into any of the different positions it goes in (leaned against head, on prop rod, etc)

Might not need to replace the switch either. Could be a wire fell off, or the diode went bad.

#3 13 days ago

I'm guessing I'll be able to see if a wire is hanging off. As for the diode, I'll look at the charts again and find which one to look for. The slam ramp (Left ramp Down) stopped making the noise it usually does when it drops then a few drops later it stopped working completely. Testing It I heard a click but ramp will not move at all. I'm not going to be lifting the board up until the part comes in the mail since the game is still playable just no Hole in ones I will most definitely post what happens back to this thread in a few days.

#4 13 days ago

The diode will be attached to the switch. The broken wire could be at the other end of the wires attached to this switch though, bit harder to track down sometimes

#5 13 days ago
Quoted from K-Team:

I've got a NGG Williams and a switch went out (47 I believe) Looking at the under side is pretty scary and nerve racking for me. I love fixing things and figuring things out but I hate messing extra things up in the process haha. I've done all of the schematic research etc and I know where I'm looking for the switch (also did a bunch of the tests with the manual to determine that it should indeed just be the one switch) and have it ordered. My newb question is - When I go and take off the glass then lift the play board up, Do I have to disconnect any of the wires inside the front door before hand? I'm not taking the board out all the way just a quick lift it up, put the arm up for support then grabbing the switch and putting a new one in. I'm worried I will go to lift the board and rip multiple things.

Just a helpful tip, it’s a playfield not a play board, you will be able to get more effective help when learning and using the common terminology.

As for lifting the playfield, these games are designed to be lifted up and worked on. You shouldn’t be ripping or tearing anything by simply lifting it up.
When you work underneath the playfield make sure the machine is OFF!
I’ve seen too many Williams games especially get the CPU cooked by a seemingly harmless tool shorting a connection.

So you can lift up your game and not damage anything, take pictures where you’re going to work and please please PLEASE make sure you turn it off before you touch anything under it!

#6 13 days ago
Quoted from K-Team:

I'm guessing I'll be able to see if a wire is hanging off. As for the diode, I'll look at the charts again and find which one to look for. The slam ramp (Left ramp Down) stopped making the noise it usually does when it drops then a few drops later it stopped working completely. Testing It I heard a click but ramp will not move at all. I'm not going to be lifting the board up until the part comes in the mail since the game is still playable just no Hole in ones I will most definitely post what happens back to this thread in a few days.

I know it's hard being new and getting overwhelmed with all of the stuff under the playfield, but you should get REALLY comfortable taking the glass off and lifting up the playfield. When you lift up the playfield, you can pull it out towards you, and lean the playfield on the backbox so that it is standing vertically. Trust me, it will make any kind of work much easier.

As Zac mentioned, it might not be a bad switch at all, it could be that a wire broke off and just needs to be soldered back in. I assume you've gone into the operator's menu and tried the switch test? Since you already have the switch ordered, you might as well replace the whole thing, but assuming that you checked the easy things first.

#7 13 days ago

Also, don't forget to take the balls out before tilting the playfield back

#8 13 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Also, don't forget to take the balls out before tilting the playfield back

I still forget occasionally lol

#9 13 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Just a helpful tip, it’s a playfield not a play board, you will be able to get more effective help when learning and using the common terminology.
As for lifting the playfield, these games are designed to be lifted up and worked on. You shouldn’t be ripping or tearing anything by simply lifting it up.
When you work underneath the playfield make sure the machine is OFF!
I’ve seen too many Williams games especially get the CPU cooked by a seemingly harmless tool shorting a connection.
So you can lift up your game and not damage anything, take pictures where you’re going to work and please please PLEASE make sure you turn it off before you touch anything under it!

Thanks buddy, I saw play board some where and ran with it. And yes always off with circuits etc.

#10 13 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

The diode will be attached to the switch. The broken wire could be at the other end of the wires attached to this switch though, bit harder to track down sometimes

Great thanks, when I get home today I'll give it a look just for practice.

#11 13 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I know it's hard being new and getting overwhelmed with all of the stuff under the playfield, but you should get REALLY comfortable taking the glass off and lifting up the playfield. When you lift up the playfield, you can pull it out towards you, and lean the playfield on the backbox so that it is standing vertically. Trust me, it will make any kind of work much easier.
As Zac mentioned, it might not be a bad switch at all, it could be that a wire broke off and just needs to be soldered back in. I assume you've gone into the operator's menu and tried the switch test? Since you already have the switch ordered, you might as well replace the whole thing, but assuming that you checked the easy things first.

Yes I did the switch test and error reports etc and tried activating the single switch multiple times etc.
One thing tho, it did work randomly for 3 drops after about 4 games of its not working then went back to not working so maybe it is just something loose who knows.

#12 13 days ago
Quoted from K-Team:

Yes I did the switch test and error reports etc and tried activating the single switch multiple times etc.
One thing tho, it did work randomly for 3 drops after about 4 games of its not working then went back to not working so maybe it is just something loose who knows.

best way to find out is to take a look. A faulty switch will display intermittent operation, but so will a switch that isn't adjusted properly. Having switch test up, and clicking the switch manually on top of the playfield, and underneath the playfield as well, will be able to tell you for sure if your switch it faulty or if it's not adjusted properly, (the armature might need adjusting). If your playfield is up and your machine is on, make sure that you don't use any metal tools, and that your coin door is open. The open coin door cuts off all high voltage.

#13 12 days ago

Interesting revelation on how I REALLY have no clue here. So switch 47 left ramp down is for the left gofer ramp i'm assuming. For some reason when the FLOATING ramp stopped working it triggered that error so I thought the FLOATING ramp was left ramp. The left ramp on the other hand works just fine. Once in a blue moon the ramp will fall immediately when you raise left gofer but it's pretty rare so I'm really not worried about that any time soon. So I'm guessing the game is yelling at me about that??? I took the glass off and pushed the FLOATING ramp up and down manually and noticed every once in a while it gets a little stuck. After pushing the ramp up and down a few times I played a game and the ramp would lower perfectly when activated and went back up about 3 times. Then the ramp started to get stuck when it went back up, with it only going up a half inch or so, when a ball touched it, it would free itself and pop back up all the way. So I'm guessing the arm is rubbing every now and then and making it get stuck.

I attached pictures of the floating ramp rod in different positions to kind of make it clearer. Is there something to tighten? or lube the rod with?

On the other hand I'm also pretty sure I found switch 47 and attached a picture (behind left ramp) and it looks fine to me and like I said also works just fine so a little confused on the timing of that error code.

10429529-F9AA-4E1B-87D6-0039C4120296 (resized).jpeg9F4655C0-9846-4D53-A57D-A6AE1ED5F57F (resized).jpegBB701AE1-DE3D-4CCE-A9AA-63864FE0C690 (resized).jpegFE0897ED-75AC-4059-8403-647B51F18150 (resized).jpeg
#14 12 days ago

Looking at it again and trying to find the source of the noise (rubbing squeak) I noticed its the right side of it. The nut is rubbing on that cut out. So I'm guessing the fix is either turn it a little so it doesn't touch that long hole any more. OR is it supposed to be IN that hole and that's why there is a gap in the nut on the left side???

3CEAB273-113C-41B1-8EA3-EEA158CF4E05 (resized).jpeg92FC4386-C413-4C90-82F7-9EAF06311C34 (resized).jpeg
#15 12 days ago

Ok I made it so that nut is in the hole groove and it works like a champ. Now I just gotta figure out if theres any way to fix my sluggish top right and bottom left bumpers.... lol

When ive got the playfield up and i manually pull back the bottom right good one it springs right back as it should. When I do it to the other two they almost done even snap back at all. They seem gunked up. Trying to go about this without a full replacement. Or soldering. Or am I kinda SOL on the soldering thing and will have to do it regardless just to remove the assembly to clean it.

#16 12 days ago

Sounds like yer making progress, well on yer way to some pinball machine repair.

Playboard, Playfield, same same, we all knew what you meant. Some guys get too picky here.

And you can work on the machine while turned on, I do it all the time. You just have to be careful, use a chopstick to poke around and be mindful with metal tools.

Also some switches can be mounted too tight, I've had a few that will not activate until the mounting screws are loosened a bit. Tight screws can sort of ‘lock’ the switch.

Good Luck!

#17 12 days ago
Quoted from motorbreth77:

Sounds like yer making progress, well on yer way to some pinball machine repair.
Playboard, Playfield, same same, we all knew what you meant. Some guys get too picky here.
And you can work on the machine while turned on, I do it all the time. You just have to be careful, use a chopstick to poke around and be mindful with metal tools.
Also some switches can be mounted too tight, I've had a few that will not activate until the mounting screws are loosened a bit. Tight screws can sort of ‘lock’ the switch.
Good Luck!

Thanks for the info buddy! All you guys are laying the foundation of many years to come haha.

#18 12 days ago

Your well on your way. There are a few guys I know that will never take the glass off. So I fix the small things that they won't touch.

I recommend if you are interested in getting started soldering. Get a few small alligator clips to hold wires nicely while working and an adjustable temp soldering station. Amazon has plenty to choose from. Then some soldering wick and some electrical solder. You will have good looking solder joints in no time.

#19 12 days ago
Quoted from K-Team:

Ok I made it so that nut is in the hole groove and it works like a champ. Now I just gotta figure out if theres any way to fix my sluggish top right and bottom left bumpers.... lol
When ive got the playfield up and i manually pull back the bottom right good one it springs right back as it should. When I do it to the other two they almost done even snap back at all. They seem gunked up. Trying to go about this without a full replacement. Or soldering. Or am I kinda SOL on the soldering thing and will have to do it regardless just to remove the assembly to clean it.

Could be the coil sleeves ... do NOT use any lubricant .... I've cleaned them out before but different types readily available. https://www.pinballlife.com/coil-sleeves.html

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 36.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound
$ 89.99
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 99.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Los Angeles, CA

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside