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(Topic ID: 221771)

Newbie F14 Fuse Questions


By Yakrobat

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by heni1977
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#1 2 years ago

So I purchased an F14 off Craig's List yesterday. While this isn't my first machine, it's my first foray into electrical troubleshooting.

Since none of the flippers, slingshots, nor the pop-bumper are working, I went straightaway to the fuses. As shown in the image of the power board, the 1st photo, 3rd fuse down (F4) is a white material with several million ohms resistance. My first thought is to just replace it, however I have to wonder if this was done purposely.

Also, F7 is jumped and I'm wondering why that might be.

Any thought are appreciated. Thanks!

Yak

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#2 2 years ago

The 3rd fuse down is just a paper covered fuse in lieu of glass. Pull the fuse out and make sure the stamped metal end says 4A, 250V. Then check continuity with a meter to make sure it's good.

The jumper on that fuse F7 location is from the factory. Download the PDF manual from IPDB and you'll see that jumper shown in the schematic of the power supply.

#3 2 years ago

A paper-in-lieu-of-glass fuse? I had never heard of such a thing, though it was a dummy fuse or some such device.

So after replacing the fuse, I still have no flippers, slingshots, or pop-bumper. I checked to see if there might be a common ground discontinuity but that doesn't appear to be the issue. I then checked the F4 fuse I replaced and it's blown. Looks to be a short I'm guessing. Are there any guides (YouTube or otherwise) on tracking down a short?

Thanks!

Yak

#4 2 years ago

It's actually opaque ceramic.

If it's blowing instantly, you have a short. It's probably going to be a shorted coil or drive transistor. Measure the resistance of each coil to see if any are 0 ohms. You may need to desolder the wiring from the lugs. You'll have to test the drive transistors with a DMM set to diode setting.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from Yakrobat:

Any thought are appreciated.

Can you take a pic of the CPU board or tell us the board serial #.

#6 2 years ago

Looks like that C10 cap took a beating... I'd replace the caps on that board too

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Can you take a pic of the CPU board or tell us the board serial #.

Here's a photo, not sure where to find the serial number.

Quoted from koen12344:

Looks like that C10 cap took a beating... I'd replace the caps on that board too

Once I get a new playfield, I plan a complete restoration inclusive of capacitors. Good eye though, I didn't notice the dent.

IMG_20180804_184727 (resized).jpg
#8 2 years ago
Quoted from Yakrobat:

Here's a photo, not sure where to find the serial number.

Its the Williams sticker at the middle right side of the board. It starts with #541 which is High Speed Game. This is the wrong board for this machine. If you remove 1J19 from the board then replace the F-4 fuse, turn the power on and see if the fuse burns again.

#9 2 years ago

Those transistors at Q 76 and Q 77 do not look to healthy either. Also take a good pic of the power supply so we can see that as well!

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