I think it's the buyers responsibility to arrange the shipping but sometimes it's the other way around. If that is the case you can call either Michelle Bianci at STI or Matthew Torgensen at Freightwire they will give you a quote.

It should be your responsibility to prepare the game for shipping. Buyers preference with legs on or off. I tend to like my games shipped with legs off. And have crank straps to secure to the game on the pallet.

Take an obscene amount of shots while packing so if there is any damage during transit that a) you don't get blamed for it and b) it will help the buyer file a claim.

Good write-up by Flash above.

I've never shipped a pin, but helped a friend ship many. And have been there when he received a few from being shipped.

I want to inspect the pin first. I won't let myself buy something sight unseen (with exception of course).

Being a newb you won't know what to look for regardless at this point. But you will. You'll know what hacks are easily reversible, etc too.

Regardless of having it shipped or driving to it, ask for scads of pics. Research the pin as to what wear spots are at what areas on the pf. Ask for pics of that. Sellers can be creative in taking their pics.

I've only bought pins that are within a 3-5 hour driving distance. I'd be nervous about having something shipped without seeing it in person first.

There seems to be a hot spot of pins within an hour's radius of the Philadelphia, PA area, so you might have luck in that area, rather than in upstate NY.

I shipped only one pin, by NAVL and I don't expect to be shipping one ever again. I did not want to ship it in the first place, but the potential buyer was insistent. I informed the buyer they would be responsible for the shipping and I am not equipped to ship other than to dismantle the game and have it ready in my garage. They blanket wrapped and taped each piece- the cabinet and head were separate, and the loose items (balls/legs/manuals/bolts) were packed in a separate box. I took pictures of the game in all stages of the process, plus when the shippers arrived I took pictures of the blanket wrapping and the loading.

I carefully examined the paperwork where they indicate physical damage (there were some known scratches on cabinet and backbox that I had already indicated and sent pictures of to the buyer) When it arrived, the game's backglass was shattered. I supplied copies of the paperwork indicating the condition of the game at pickup to the buyer, who used that to file a claim. The claim was settled - albeit with a little resistance at first, so I hear. I offered but never was requested to supply the pictures.

Moral of the story, no matter how or who you ship with: Make certain you retain copies of all paperwork and verify accuracy of all the information. Take a boatload of pics for backup too.

I know most sellers prefer buyer to arrange for the shipping to avoid getting dragged into 'your shipper ruined the machine' discussion if something happens, but I prefer buying from people who are willing to organize the shipping too (I'd pay the costs of course). If the seller is willing to ship it tells me they know what they are doing and I can trust the game is packed well because it's in their interest. What happens during the shipping is beyond anyone's control so I wouldn't blame the seller for that, and anyhow most people use NAVL/STI and it doesn't get much better than that.

There are plenty of threads on how to pack the pin for shipping, some prefer on a pallet some on legs, some in a crate. See e.g. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/packing-a-machine-for-shipping for good tips

I think the OP is asking a more basic question. Here's my process:

1. List the pin for sale locally, and price it carefully. If it sits too long, it becomes harder to sell. You have to decide whether profit is more important than just getting your money back out of the game (or even taking a small loss).

2. If you can't find anyone locally that's interested (after say 2 months), say that you're willing to meet the buyer halfway.

3. If that doesn't work, THEN you say that you're willing to ship.

That's just me. I would only ship as a last resort, and I've never gotten to stage 3. The one time I did meet a buyer, it just worked out because I was going to Columbia SC anyway.

I have sold three pins in the past 2 years. When I list the pin I require that it be picked up at my house. The buyers (2) have driven 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Never really had a problem.

If you sell any game, don't accept bogus payment plans and give your buyer special treatment. I learned this the hard way...

I would suggest doing some research to find out how local collectors in your area tend to list games. Go online. Dig around and find if there are any user groups on yahoo, facebook, ect. There may even be a topic that lists pins for sale in your area on Pinside. Craiglist is usually a good place to start but it might not be the best way to connect to local pinheads in your area.

I would avoid having to ship a pin. There are always enough local buyers around, so throw it up on Craig's List. If it's at a reasonable price, it will sell quickly.

First and foremost always be honest with any potential buyer. They will always remember that you were and they will never forget it if you try to mislead or are flat deceitful.

I've only sold one to date, but followed much advice on this site before doing so.

1) As a 1st sale, I would only start local through either Pinside classified or Craigslist. If priced right and somewhat desirable, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a local buyer (especially in NY).
2) If you have an offer from someone you don't know, have the pin in a location for the buyer to look at that you are comfortable with. If you are not comfortable having a stranger in your home, move the pin to your garage. Just make sure it is set up so the buyer can play a few games and inspect.
3) Cash, cash, cash. Almost any other form of payment comes with risk. Be upfront with this requirement and don't deviate no matter how nice they are (unless you absolutely know the person you are dealing with). Any serious buyer should have no issue with this form of payment.
4) Be upfront with the buyer on any issues with the pin, will save headaches in the future.
5) Make it clear that the buyer is taking possession of the pin "as is" with no expressed warranty. I wrote up a couple of lines on a piece of paper detailing this along with the purchase price for both parties to sign as a "receipt".
6) Have cash in your hand before moving the pin into their vehicle.
7) If it's in a weird location and requires steps, you may want to make it clear that the buyer needs to bring people with him to move the pin. Remember, once he gives you the cash he owns it so any damage when moving it would be his responsibility.

Scott

#6 above is a big one.

Always get the cash before the pin moves.

What if buyer and his moving minion drop the pin in your driveway, etc? Now you have a damaged pin sitting in your driveway, and most likely a deal falling through, with said seller and minion escaping with their cash in their car!

Get cash prior to the move always.