(Topic ID: 282725)

New xenon

By Woodside

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 56 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Woodside
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    20201212_170336 (resized).jpg
    20201212_170342 (resized).jpg
    1389278325.png
    34e883dafec4d349ebc7d18940e555f30a45102e (resized).jpg
    20201201_073146 (resized).jpg
    1848711921.png
    Screenshot_20201130_153433_com.google.android.apps.docs.jpg
    There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 3 years ago

    Hi
    I have had a fair few pinballs over the years but sold them 15 odd years ago to finance building works
    I had that itch again and have just picked up a bally xenon in pretty good shape but has sat in bits for near 10 years
    And im realising im abit rusty on these early ss games

    1st question one of many

    Mpu plug j2 the top wire the yellow with red trace ....it was floating about I think im right it goes onto pin 1 can some kind person confirm this fpr me

    Also in switch test mode it sits in sw 1 end of tube..but occasionally pops up to sw7 sw8 and jumps around abit....is this somthing thats vommon and hopefully straight forward

    Thanks in advance j

    #2 3 years ago

    Looks like it goes in pin 5.

    Screenshot_20201130_153433_com.google.android.apps.docs.jpgScreenshot_20201130_153433_com.google.android.apps.docs.jpg
    #3 3 years ago

    Well thanks for that
    That answers my question in a round about sort of way...
    I thought I cant be that far out! when I just went back to check its actually the white with red trace that was rougue
    Which does indeed go into no 1

    Thanks for the quick reply

    #4 3 years ago

    Right on. Did that fix the other issue your were having too?

    #5 3 years ago

    Nope.
    It still sits on switch 1
    End of tube switch when in switch test mode
    And like I say occasionally jumps up to 7 and 8

    It has a few more gremlins as it also can jump straight to tilt.

    Also credits jump up in massive leaps
    But it ignores start button
    Like I say its been sat in pieces in a garage for a fair few years

    I didnt expect it to work from the off
    90%of lamps work
    Displays are nice and bright and steady
    All solenoids fire strong so I'm hoping when I get these little faults it should be great

    Like I say I haven't had a ss for over 15 years .... so I know I need to get up to speed

    Any pointers would be real helpful

    I'll work through it one fault at a time
    J

    #6 3 years ago

    I'd get a look at the switches under the playfield and make sure no wires or diodes are touching anything adjacent. What condition is the mpu in? Any battery corrosion? (Mpu is the top-left board in the backbox)

    You can also try re-seating the connectors on the mpu, in particular the 2 on the right side of the board. Those games are well known for connector issues, so you may have a bit of work ahead of you...

    #7 3 years ago

    It actually has an older altek mpu fitted the earlier one with the remote battery pack.
    This game looks to have been shopped about 15-20 years ago and hasn't been used much since
    Or messed about with

    Tomorrow evening ill factory reset the mpu and see if it settles any more
    And pop some new batteries in just to male sure everything is happy

    #8 3 years ago

    Please excuse typos I'm using my phone for the time being

    #9 3 years ago

    No worries!

    One other thought: some of the switches under the playfield have round ceramic 0.05uf or 0.047uf capacitors attached. The switch diagram in the schematic shows which ones. For example: 1848711921.png1848711921.png

    Check for those caps on any of the switches that are not working. If you see caps on any of them, you can clip a leg off temporarily to see if that fixes the issue. Those caps can go bad and cause weird switch issues. It looks like the activation switches for the pop bumpers (aka thumper bumpers in Bally terminology) may each have a cap installed. Might want to try clipping a leg from each of them if everything else checks out. I usually replace them all on any games that use them. They help detect short or quick switch activations. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, it's worth replacing them sooner or later. 0.047uf/50v (or higher voltage) work fine as replacements.

    Good luck, hopefully you'll have it up and running properly soon.

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from frunch:

    0.047uf/50v (or higher voltage) work fine as replacements.

    This is good to know. I have a few .047uf caps left over from restoring a Mata Hari that I wanted to use on a xenon I’m currently working on. The pop bumpers currently have .05uf and I was bummed about having to make a separate order just for a handful of these.
    For the life of me I cannot understand compatible ratings with capacitors or resistors no matter how many times it’s explained.

    #11 3 years ago

    Good morning..
    Well it is here
    May I ask if the fist mpu diagram was a generic bally diagram or was it xenon specific

    I have in pin

    1 White Red trace
    2 nu
    3 grey white trace
    4 white with yellow trace....very faded so could be wrong
    5yellow red (or brown ) trace

    Thats j2 on mpu counting down from top marked 1
    Down to keyway

    #12 3 years ago
    20201201_073146 (resized).jpg20201201_073146 (resized).jpg
    #13 3 years ago

    You can download the whole manual w/schematics here: https://www.ipdb.org/files/2821/Bally_1980_Xenon_Manual_And_Schematics.pdf

    Wiring looks correct, as far as i can tell. Have you checked under the playfield for switch caps? Make sure diodes and wiring on the switches aren't touching metal or mashed together or anything like that too.

    #14 3 years ago

    Hi just got home and started again for a few hours
    It settled down possibly being in a nice warm house either than a cold garage
    More life and bow im on switch 27 tube switch
    Switch is working and when I activate the switch 27 the next switch with an issue is 25 shooter lane

    I have the manual here but not the wiring diagrams and at the moment I only have a phone to view them and its awkward to say the least

    #15 3 years ago

    OK cleared all switches
    And its now seeing start button
    Now pops straight into tilt when pressed

    Moving on slowly

    #16 3 years ago

    If you remove the bottom wire from J3 of the mpu (it should be yellow), does it still tilt?

    J3 is the connector below the one you posted a pic of before.

    #17 3 years ago

    I'll have a look
    If I activate tilt switches manually in switch test it shows sw 6 ...credit button
    So somewhere it must be linked

    #18 3 years ago

    Answer to removing bottom orange from plug..
    It goes straight to tilt on startup

    #19 3 years ago

    How about if you remove J2 and J3 (both connectors on the right side of the mpu?)

    Still tilting?

    #20 3 years ago

    No sits happy

    #21 3 years ago

    Even tilts on the start switch with no credits
    Back to a few posts ago
    Looks like someone has already snipped the capacitors off...
    The only ones I can see are on the flipper buttons and plumb bob tilt...and I have just removed that one too

    #22 3 years ago

    If it only tilts when one of them is plugged in, that should help you narrow down the problem. If it acts up with J2 plugged in, the problem is on the playfield. If it acts up with J3 plugged in, the problem is in the cabinet.

    #23 3 years ago

    It plays up with j3 plugged in
    I'm wondering if its in the door

    #24 3 years ago

    There's usually a connector for the coin door, you could try unplugging it.

    #25 3 years ago

    I've unplugged that obviously cannot press start button to tilt it...

    But here is what I think is wrong
    But I jave no idea why just yet

    In switch test all switches seem to be working
    But if I short the ball roll tilt with the ball it flashes 07-07-07-06-06-07-06-06-0-6-07-06-06 etc
    It seems to be a conflict somewhere and it is triggering both 6 and 7 switch in switch matrix
    Obviously why start button is tilting it

    It flashes 06 probably 3-1 times

    Still i do feel like I'm getting somewhere now

    With thanks to yourself

    #26 3 years ago

    And just noticed if I am touching the ball on the tilt mech
    When I earth the door with my hand ....the top right pop bumper pops ???

    At this point I will add I am an electrician by trade 30 years ....... didn't known could do that though

    #27 3 years ago

    Back too it
    Just had a game .I think the
    Fault was down to the final ball out switch 02.

    It was just about on its adjustment I guess a ball has been sitting on it for many years so was on a fag papers adjustment
    Just re adjusted and all works really well
    Obviously it won't be the end of my problems but its good to see a game unfold .....
    And the speech works which is a real bonus

    I'm gonna put a few games through it to see whats misbehaving already one roll over button up top is sticky

    I'm not 100% its the route cause but I will keep going

    I promised the kids it would be done fpr Christmas

    #28 3 years ago

    Before I hit the sack.
    One thing that is bothering me

    The centre pop bumper doesn't work but when the skirt switch is activated the top rhs bumper triggers

    Is this a common thing
    And any suggestions before I go mad again

    #29 3 years ago
    Quoted from Woodside:

    The centre pop bumper doesn't work but when the skirt switch is activated the top rhs bumper triggers

    Is this a common thing
    And any suggestions before I go mad again

    One of the diodes is faulty or cracked.

    It might be on the pop switch, or another diode on the matrix

    Sometimes they fall apart when you tug on them, or give a strange reading on your meter

    Replace it and the cap with a new one.

    #30 3 years ago

    Touching various grounded objects (coin door, frame, leg) and something within the switch matrix (like your tilt bob or ball) will make other items activate. Pretty common on the Bally games. Your body is providing a low impedance path for the switch matrix causing the MPU to think you triggered a switch somewhere.

    #31 3 years ago

    Back again.

    Games playing well...especially considering its been stood for so long
    It goes into tilt on first ball of player one if playing multi player ....
    Definitely somthing to do with ball release switches as it then goes round all 4 players and balls perfectly.
    I think it may be a tad out of sink..

    The middle pop bumper fires on the solenoid test
    And it sees the switch in switch test....
    So why wouldn't it fire in a game mode

    Any suggestions

    #32 3 years ago
    Quoted from Woodside:

    Back again.
    Games playing well...especially considering its been stood for so long
    It goes into tilt on first ball of player one if playing multi player ....
    Definitely somthing to do with ball release switches as it then goes round all 4 players and balls perfectly.
    I think it may be a tad out of sink..
    The middle pop bumper fires on the solenoid test
    And it sees the switch in switch test....
    So why wouldn't it fire in a game mode
    Any suggestions

    Like Vid said earlier, check out your diodes. Best thing I did on my Mata Hari and Firepower was just replace all the diodes on any switch matrix that has funny behavior.

    #33 3 years ago

    OK very lazy question now.
    What diodes shall I order

    Much appreciated again
    At least my lad can now have a game on it

    #34 3 years ago
    Quoted from Woodside:

    OK very lazy question now.
    What diodes shall I order
    Much appreciated again
    At least my lad can now have a game on it

    IN4004 is the most common

    #35 3 years ago

    I'll order some.
    Although its just started to work...but obviously and issue somewhere

    So as it stands the game is now playing well and all functions are working.
    Fingers crossed but im sure somthing else is gonna bite me

    The last switch on the ball release seems to affect the game massively

    #36 3 years ago

    Get 100 1N4004 diodes for $2, you will constantly need them with pin ownership.

    https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4004-diode-1a-400v.html

    Get 100 .047uf caps for $1 (almost all of yours will be open or clipped out)

    https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors/10-x-0-047uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html

    Every red dot on this schematic needs a new cap, PLUS the 4 rollover buttons at the top had them from the factory (although omitted on the schematic). Without properly installed caps, your game's CPU will miss many switch closures.

    34e883dafec4d349ebc7d18940e555f30a45102e (resized).jpg34e883dafec4d349ebc7d18940e555f30a45102e (resized).jpg
    #37 3 years ago

    OK all caps and diodes ordered and im on it.
    Although the lower ball chute issue seems more like a set up issue

    You can play with the skirt off and you can see the 2nd ball bounce back and fowl sw 28 which puts the whole game out of cinc as no ball is showing on sw 2
    Not very often but enough to be a pain

    #38 3 years ago

    You may have to adjust those switches a bit. A switch leaf may be creating too much tension, making it's harder for the ball to push it closed. In that case, you'd want to bend both switch leaves away slightly from the wire actuator that the ball presses down.

    Or you may find a small divot or 2 on the rail the balls roll down that's causing one to get stuck or something like that.

    Also, is the game leveled properly and pitched steep enough?

    #39 3 years ago

    Cap fitted diode changed
    Minor service and pop bumper is very responsive sharp and strong.

    Ball Shute is now working well to date
    The ball seemed to bounce back and foul the micro sw in trough ...(think 28 from memory)
    So I reformed the wire form a little and snipped about 2-3 mm from end so it was sitting just under half the ball so now when it gets so far it let's the ball free sooner..
    To date its been perfect as has the whole game...

    Now onto getting all lamps working

    Thanks again guys

    #40 3 years ago

    Nice work!

    Enjoy, and be sure to stop back if you have any further questions or problems!

    #41 3 years ago

    I'm back...
    All has been very well.
    This game has been pretty faultless ....Still is..

    It must have had 200 games through it this week

    The kids were playing all was good.
    They stopped and left it switched on in attract mode or the middle of a game for half hour whilst having dinner.

    When they went back the sounds gone
    You get the small point score beep but no speech or background.

    The speech boards work when test button is pressed and go through all phrases
    I've reset the altek .
    And tried all the sound modes in test 18...

    And nothings changed.

    Obviously I'm glad the speech is OK but why would the speech and bonus mota release etc just disappear

    Any ideas

    Thanks again in advance

    #42 3 years ago

    You can set the DIP switches so that it only beeps on scoring (safe for church rec rooms)

    #43 3 years ago

    I'll check but its been fine for weeks
    Just shut off when left idle for half hour
    No dip switches were touched

    #44 3 years ago

    Try turning the 2 adjustment pots on the Sounds Plus board. They're kind of small, and they likely have a little slot for a phillips-head screwdriver to turn them back and forth. Might have a blue or black dial on them. See if the sounds come and go by turning those pots back and forth. I circled them in this pic to help locate them on your board: 1389278325.png1389278325.png

    If that gets the sound back--replace the pots. They're 1k ohm pots, here's the link to them at Great Plains Electronics: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3362P-1-102

    Also--here's a really good rundown of everything you may run into on Xenon regarding sound problems, as far as i can tell: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-sound-mystery

    Good luck, and congrats on all the progress you've made!

    #45 3 years ago

    I'll have a read of all that later.
    Apparently the sound came back for a bit earlier today ..then went out again.

    I went to turn the pots..the top one has been replaced already...when I opened the back box whilst it was in play it briefly woke up??

    Them went off again straight away.

    I would assume the pots are fine as when you press the test button it goes through its whole vocal repertoire

    It just won't say a word in the game

    And also on a foot note all sounds have disappeared now
    So its abit like playing an EM game at the moment
    Really frustrating as the game is otherwise playing and behaving really well

    It can't be much as the start sound is there
    And the speech works on the test button

    No scoring at all or anything in play

    #46 3 years ago
    Quoted from Woodside:

    No scoring at all or anything in play

    All those 40-50 year old Bally need to be re-pinned.

    Many of those connectors were designed for 30 installation cycles, and that has been exceeded long ago:

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4545041

    #47 3 years ago
    Quoted from Woodside:

    I'll have a read of all that later.
    Apparently the sound came back for a bit earlier today ..then went out again.
    I went to turn the pots..the top one has been replaced already...when I opened the back box whilst it was in play it briefly woke up??
    Them went off again straight away.
    I would assume the pots are fine as when you press the test button it goes through its whole vocal repertoire
    It just won't say a word in the game
    And also on a foot note all sounds have disappeared now
    So its abit like playing an EM game at the moment
    Really frustrating as the game is otherwise playing and behaving really well
    It can't be much as the start sound is there
    And the speech works on the test button
    No scoring at all or anything in play

    You've verified that the settings for sound and speech at number 18 hasn't changed and is set to 03? If it starts working when you open the backbox it's almost certainly a connector / header issue.

    #48 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Get 100 1N4004 diodes for $2, you will constantly need them with pin ownership.
    https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4004-diode-1a-400v.html
    Get 100 .047uf caps for $1 (almost all of yours will be open or clipped out)
    https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors/10-x-0-047uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html
    Every red dot on this schematic needs a new cap, PLUS the 4 rollover buttons at the top had them from the factory (although omitted on the schematic). Without properly installed caps, your game's CPU will miss many switch closures. [quoted image]

    Don't buy these .047 caps. They work fine, but are tiny. Pain to solder on. Plenty of other cheap caps are available with a bigger size.

    #49 3 years ago

    OK I'm with you on re pinning.
    But as I don't have any here I'm still trying to suss out the route of my troubles

    Now I'm pretty sure if it was a dry joint...(I have re flowed the header pins )
    As When in a game and I went around wiggling poking and generally disturbing everything at some point i would get a bleep on boooohh.....nowt

    I have just taken the vocalizer board out and seen this nasty repair .....
    But like I say the speech works fine on the test button...

    Now my thought process is taking me to the vintage alltek board as the trouble as I am not getting a start up noise on the test button.

    And its not getting any sound in the game
    I'm obviously getting power in and out of sound/vocalizer as the rest button on the board is working

    Its just not getting a signal when scores are hit
    Although the scores are all working fine

    20201212_170342 (resized).jpg20201212_170342 (resized).jpg
    #50 3 years ago

    Top side

    20201212_170336 (resized).jpg20201212_170336 (resized).jpg
    There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-xenon and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.