(Topic ID: 254831)

New Volley with Some Issues

By Spyderturbo007

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 years ago by gdonovan
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#1 4 years ago

I just picked up a Volley that has a few issues. I don’t have a schematic yet, so I’m not sure anyone can help me or not.

1. When I start a game, it lights one of the drop target banks. From the videos I’ve seen, it shouldn’t light a bank until you roll over the appropriate top lane. It seems to be random and doesn’t score any points when it happens. All 3 roll over switches are adjusted correctly.

2. The thousand point reel doesn’t carry over. I can’t figure out which switch I need to look at to fix the issue.

3. There is a wire that fell off the 10s score reel. I’m pretty sure it goes on the “C”, but I’m not sure. The 10,000 point reel has the same color wire attached to the “C” on it but wanted to be sure before I go re-attaching it.

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#2 4 years ago

Scratch that. I closed the coin door with a game started. It tilted and now it won’t start a game. Start button does nothing unless I turn the game off and back on again. Then it resets the drop target banks and then nothing.

I think I killed it.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

If the Replay Button doesn't activate the Start (S) relay, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features[quoted image]

I'm really new at EMs and I'm not 100% were to start. I checked both of your links and I'm still confused.

For example, I really don't even know where the replay button is located? Unless that's what I would call the start button I use to start a game. The button works, but it just causes the drop target banks to reset and then nothing. The tilt switches all appear to work. If I press the start button and then change the start of the tilt switches, they all light the tilt light on the back glass.

Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

The machine is set for 3 balls, first off. That is why one of the target banks light up. The Jones plug to adjust is under the playfield. The tilt switches can be very sensitive. The slam switch in the coin door should be normally closed.

That would make sense, thanks!

Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

The ball needs to be in the outhole before the game will start, even after a fresh reset.

It is.

#9 4 years ago

Nope. It tries to reset the drop target banks (I here a few clunks) and then nothing.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Ok. A manual and schematic is needed at this point. Order from PBR. You can poke around and examine relays for adjustment and such, but be careful. I don't have a manual with me right now, but will be back this evening and take a look at the reset sequence. It could be as simple as a dirty outhole contact.

Thank you. I'll get it ordered from them.

It's just weird that it happened at the instant I closed the coin door. However, I was running into weird issues right before that happened with it losing track of balls. Meaning at the end of the 3 ball game, the backglass would quickly flash ball 5, kick out another ball and then end the game.

If I'm looking at relays and move the plastic armature, the switches should change state, correct? If it's NO at rest, then it should go NC. Make / break switches should do the same thing, right? NC goes to NO and the NO goes to NC. I can just carefully move the arm and make sure they are doing what they should be doing.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

That's not what you said in your post #2 above, but moving on.

Sorry for the confusion. It seems to kind of do what it wants to be honest. Sometimes the start button causes the banks to reset and other times it appears to be stuck in Tilt and the button does nothing. I'm going to try and get something more definitive later this evening.

Quoted from HowardR:

If the score reels don't reset, what's the Reset Completed (AX) doing when this happens?

The score reels are already at 0, so I'm not sure if they do anything or not. I looked at the AX relay and it looks normal to me. I'm assuming I need a second set of hands if I want to watch the AX relay when I hit the button. The AX is in the back box. I might be able to pull it out and set up my camera.

#15 4 years ago

Ok, so here is exactly what happened tonight.

1. Turned on game with power switch. Back box lit up, Game Over was flashing and Tilt was solid.
2. Coin door was closed and the ball was in the out hole
3. Pressed Start button and it actually worked.....for a little.
4. During ball 2, all of a sudden the play field lights went off, Game Over started flashing and Tilt went solid
5. Pressing start again causes the banks to reset, the score reels reset, but the ball stays in the out hole. Game Over is still flashing and Tilt is still lit. I can also see the Hold and Start relay pull in momentary and the score Motor spins about 1/3 of a turn.

Looks like an issue with something to do with the tilt I would assume?

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#17 4 years ago

I’m assuming that your post is referring to the tilt switch on the bottom of the cabinet? I’m sorry. I don’t know what a tile slam switch or a motor board is so I’m guessing.

If so, if I make that switch open, I get nothing. It doesn’t do anything when I hit the start button.

If I then close the switch, there is a coil on the coin door that energizes. With the tilt switch on the bottom of the cabinet open, the coil on the coin door does nothing.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

My bad. That is correct. The only slam switch that should be open is the one attached to the playfield. The ones on the coin door, motor board and in the backbox need to be closed.

The one under the playfield is open.

#22 4 years ago

My schematics are out for delivery today. Any particular part I should post for some help?

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

First try cleaning the three sets of normally closed tilt switch contacts in the machine with a file. It sounds like they may not be making good contact.

I'll give that a whirl when I get home. It looks like there are 3 NC and one NO.

I did notice when I turn on the game, there is a coil on the coin door that energizes. If I open any of the NC tilt switches, the coil turns off until I close the switch again. Not sure if that means anything or not.

I cleaned the "Tilt Hold Relay" last night and made sure all the switches change state when the actuator is pushed. Now it doesn't say Tilt on the back glass anymore, but it still won't start a game.

#26 4 years ago

No. I'm pretty sure it was set on free play when I got it because I played a pile of games and never had to add any.

I put credits on it manually and still no dice.

#29 4 years ago

Edit - Got that resolved. See next post please.

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#30 4 years ago

One problem down and another one found. Turns out there is a trough switch stack referred to in step 5 of the startup sequence.

One of the switches was permanently closed. As soon as I adjusted the switch it finished the reset cycle and kicked out the ball.

Next issue:

If I knock down all the drops, the motor cycles and they never reset. However, if I start a game with them down, they do reset.

When they are all down I can see the “Target Bank Reset Relay” pulling in but none of the banks reset.

Thanks!

#32 4 years ago

I don’t mind issues at all. I just need a little help getting pointed in the right direction.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Happy to help. This guide has been very helpful for in understanding and repairing ems
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

I've been through that website a couple times and while helpful, it doesn't point me in the right direction. My issue is I need to know where to look for the problem as opposed to going through the entire game when something happens.

For example, with my reset bank issue. Do I look at the relay, in the head, perhaps one of the switch stacks on they motor, maybe a relay under the play field, etc. Since I don't know how to read a schematic, I don't know where to start.

I've tried teaching myself how to read a schematic, but I don't have anyone to answer my questions. In my field that would be akin to asking someone to teach themselves reaction mechanisms and not be allowed to ask questions.

It wouldn't turn out very well.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Cranky

If you'd like to try a phone call, send me your cellphone number in a private message and I'll make a first reply with a text message.

Sorry if it came across as cranky. That certainty wasn't my intent.

Thanks everyone for the phone call offers. Skidave texted me this morning and said he might be able to swing by on Saturday and help me out. I'm anxious to have someone teach me how to read a schematic.

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from cyroute:

Hey it's Joe Miller did you get this game in Pottstown? I will be home Friday night from a work trip you can give me a call if you want to try and trouble shoot over the phone. PM me for my contact info...
Joe

I did actually. It's in really nice shape, just needs some mechanical love.

#41 4 years ago

Ah crap. It’s doing it again. Pressing the start button gets the banks to reset and zeros out the scores, but it won’t kick the ball out.

Any suggestions on where to start?

#43 4 years ago

Hi HowardR. Thanks for the help. Skidave was actually over last night and spent a good bit of time helping me with the machine and teaching me how to read a schematic. Unfortunately, we didn't nail down the issue. I was looking at that part of the schematic and everything seems normal to me.

I followed the Red/White to the switch at Motor 4C. I set my meter to continuity and attached one lead to one leaf of the switch and the other lead to the other leaf. When the switch is open, no buzz. When the switch is closed it buzzes. I then tested continuity between the Green/Red at the Motor 4C switch and the Green/Red at the O relay. There is continuity between those two points as well.

The switch is NO when the relay is at rest and then NC when I push the arm. If the game is on and I manually push in the arm, the outhole kicker fires. But when motor 4C switch closes, I get nothing.

There is something that isn't telling the O relay that it needs to activate (I think)

It's the 3rd switch from the top in these pictures.

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#44 4 years ago

Double Post.

#47 4 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

If the Ball Return (O) relay doesn't activate, Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features[quoted image]

Please bear with me on this one. I'm doing the best I can, but am still getting confused. I set my meter to continuity and put one lead on the Slate/Red wire at the S relay and then the other lead of the meter I connected to the White/Brown wire on the other side of the O relay. When I closed the switch, I got a buzz tone. When the switch was open, there was no buzz. That indicates that the entire circuit is working between those two points, correct?

I tried rotating the score motor with the meter connected, thinking as the motor rotated I would lose connectivity, but oddly enough, I didn't.

Did I do something wrong?

#49 4 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Could be the contacts at the score motor are not opening.

What’s the best way to find out? They are stacked in there and there isn’t an easy way to get any of them out or even inspect them.

It looks like the only option is to start ripping out stacks of them at a time until I get to the level I need to inspect?

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from alveolus:

As Steve Young once told me with his signature disdain “Put your damn meter away!”
Continuity testing is not practical on EMs as everything is connected to everything. Just grab your jumper wires and work your way through the circuit.

I'm a little unsure of what I'm supposed to do with my jumper wires? Just connect one side of the circuit to the other? So in the schematic above, just connect the red wire to the Orange/Black wire, turn it on and see what happens? Or is it the Slate / Red wire to the White / Brown wire?

Everyone keeps saying "Diagnose this circuit with jumper wires", or "Use your jumper wires to troubleshoot", but I'm unable to find anywhere that walks me through exactly how I'm supposed to be using these jumper wires.

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