(Topic ID: 225901)

Update! New to System 6 - Gorgar Won't Boot

By MiamiRedSkin

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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CH156-SNFL (resized).png

#1 5 years ago

Hi All -

I picked up a Gorgar a couple of weeks ago, and as this is my first dive into System 6 games, I'm a little lost. When i brought it home, it would power up, displays would light up, GI would go on, etc., but the coils wouldn't go and the game wouldn't start. I stupidly started touching stuff in the back of the head, pressing the 'master switch,' dip switches, and the other advance button, and ever since then, the displays won't turn on, and the game is completely dead when powered on. When I hit the button on the sound board, the game will cycle through the voices and sounds, so that's good I guess. I took some pictures of the boards, and maybe something weird on the coin door for any of you experts to maybe remotely diagnose. I tried to read Vid's and Clay's guide, but a lot of this electrical stuff is out of my league. Any pointers on where to start, besides reseating connectors (tried that already) would be appreciated.

Both LEDs on the CPU are off. When you hit the master switch button thing, they both illuminate.

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/QnR1B34

#2 5 years ago

Welcome to the world of digital electronics! Unless you get lucky, you're going to have to learn some things. As for the guides such as Clays, they are the bibles to the basics of pinball repair. They are specialized to pinball, and assume you know some basic electronics.

There are some basic electronics courses you can take, or search online. The first things you are going to need to learn are A.C. and D.C. measurements, how to use a multimeter, and how to test continuity and resistance. Until you get these basics under your belt, resist the urge to open your machine.

#3 5 years ago

This will be a steep learning curve but it is doable and extremely rewarding when you finally get there

+1 for wayout440's post.

Vids guide to system 6 bulletproofing is also a must read.

Good luck.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Welcome to the world of digital electronics! Unless you get lucky, you're going to have to learn some things. As for the guides such as Clays, they are the bibles to the basics of pinball repair. They are specialized to pinball, and assume you know some basic electronics.
There are some basic electronics courses you can take, or search online. The first things you are going to need to learn are A.C. and D.C. measurements, how to use a multimeter, and how to test continuity and resistance. Until you get these basics under your belt, resist the urge to open your machine.

Quoted from Andy_B:

This will be a steep learning curve but it is doable and extremely rewarding when you finally get there
+1 for wayout440's post.
Vids guide to system 6 bulletproofing is also a must read.
Good luck.

Thank you for the good advice. I will continue learning. I uploaded the picture of the coin door diode which looks odd, but maybe that is normal?

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

Thank you for the good advice. I will continue learning. I uploaded the picture of the coin door diode which looks odd, but maybe that is normal?

The coin door diodes are for the switches, which is going to be one of many problems you may have with this game, but it isn't the cause of your boot up problem. You'll need to test the power supply voltages for step one. Once you get the game booting up and running, you can use switch tests to help with diagnostics of the switch matrix.

#6 5 years ago

The 40 pin connector is ALWAYS the first job, and your board has the dreaded Scanbe sockets.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The 40 pin connector is ALWAYS the first job, and your board has the dreaded Scanbe sockets.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Reeeeaaaaalllllyyy stupid question Vid, so please virtually slap me when you read this, but my 40 pin female connector doesn't have anything plugged into it. Why is it so vital to replace this if there is no adjoining male plug that clips in?

#8 5 years ago

The 40 pin male and female connector that vid refers to is the connector of the MPU board and Driver board that mate together.

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

The 40 pin male and female connector that vid refers to is the connector of the MPU board and Driver board that mate together.

Now I'm confused. The only 40 pin connector I see is the unused female connector

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:

my 40 pin female connector doesn't have anything plugged into it. Why is it so vital to replace this if there is no adjoining male plug that clips in?

There are 40 male pins that look like this:

CH156-SNFL (resized).pngCH156-SNFL (resized).png

and they are under the female sockets that look like this

09-52-3102LG (resized).jpg09-52-3102LG (resized).jpg

From the top, you can only see the females

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

There are 40 male pins that look like this:
[quoted image]
and they are under the female sockets that look like this
[quoted image]
From the top, you can only see the females

Makes total sense and I finally looked closely enough to see the obvious - thank you! I messed around with the 40 pin and I feel the machine is now close to working (I understand this is temporary and I will work to bulletproof it for sure). Lights are cycling, coils are firing, etc, but balls are still not being loaded into the trough. It looks like the game is slam tilting or something, but not quite sure. I took a 40 second video below, and also snapped some additional pictures from inside the coin door.

VIDEO:

IMG_0151 (resized).jpgIMG_0151 (resized).jpgIMG_0152 (resized).jpgIMG_0152 (resized).jpgIMG_0153 (resized).jpgIMG_0153 (resized).jpg
#12 5 years ago

Take the balls out, go into Switch Test and see if any switches are stuck on.

Then pull the 2 playfield switch connectors from the driver board (Top Right 2 Connectors on the DRIVER BOARD (Not the MPU)), and see if the same switch #s are stuck.

This will tell you if the problem in on the Driver Board, or on the Playfield.

Be aware, that simply replacing the 40 pin, often removes all the ghosts from a sys6 machine - so don't spin your wheels chasing ghosts until the 40 pin is replaced.

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