Rottendog is no longer making or supporting boards, so I would avoid that.

I'm a little confused as I generally am on these forums. So, you are going to replace a complete rectifier board based on .450ish voltage readings? First, and I have learned the hard way (after my UTube lessons that made it look easy) is I never check bridge rectifiers in circuit. I don't think you are talking about voltages, you are talking resistances.
My first troubleshooting advice would be to pull all connectors out except for J1. Replace F3 with correct fuse. Fire it up. If it blows, then you got a bad bridge. EZ fix. If it doesn't blow, then it's down stream in the regulator board. So, if you were at this point go and buy a replacement and the regulator is shorted, then the fuse on your new board will blow again.
Don't listen to your parents, if you get into this hobby, this is part of the learning curve. To solve problems as they crop up and in the all the fun learning that goes along with it.

And, I recently had a problem with Eight Ball after a year with a new Alltek MPU. It was guaranteed for life, all I had to do was ship the board to him and fixed it immediately.
Here's a board for Bally rectifier: https://allteksystems.com/collections/pinball-replacement-board-products/products/power-supply-voltage-rectifier-board

Here's where it may get tricky for you however...
Replacement Power Supply/Voltage rectifier board used in most early solid state Bally and Stern pinball machines, see game listings below. This board is a direct replacement for the original OEM rectifier boards Bally part number AS-2518-18, AS-2518-49 and Stern part number TA-100. This board requires no soldering, simply cutting the wires off your old board, stripping 1/4" insulation, and installing those wires to the E1-E12 push in locations

Wrong board for his game.

The voltage on fuse F3 gets rectified discretely by diodes CR5, CR6, CR7 and CR8. Test these four diodes to see if any are shorted - if one is, replace them all with these higher current versions that are cheap:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=10A4

Bridge BR2 rectifies the 43 volt solenoid power and is fused by F4. BR2 has nothing to do with fuse F3.

Again I am confused.

Alltek lists the games that this is compatible with. Kings of Steel is listed. Maybe they are confused, I don't know.

Quench is correct, a bad diode made into a bridge. Ahhhh less confusion.....

slochar is referring to the rectifier boards. Kings of Steel uses a different rectifier board to the ones you mentioned.
First diagram layout is the older rectifier board you referred to, second diagram layout is the later rectifier board in Kings of Steel.

AS-2518-18.png
AS-2518-54.png

Yes, like a dummy, I didn't read the fine print. Now I understand. Thank you Quench for clearing this up.

Gulf Coast Pinball had a -54 rectifier board for $70 on eBay. I haven't checked to see if they have any left, but if they do you can save some money over the other boards. Between the two you mentioned, I would go with the Anarchy board. That said, if you can solder and desolder, and if your base PCB hasn;t been overly damaged, it's easy to repair or refresh and mildly upgrade these -54 boards. I typically use Great Plains Electronics for my replacement parts. Good luck.

What about when you reverse the meter leads on the diodes, what readings do you get?

Probably ok but check downstream at test points TP4 on the solenoid driver board for around 230V DC and TP2 for about 190V DC.

The blackened fuse holders are silver plated to handle high current and the plating has tarnished. I sometimes carefully clean them with steel wool using needle nose pliers. Be sure to vacuum the steel wool crumbs so there's no stray bits left over to cause shorts.

:: 1A1907-03 fuse clips ---> should be fine.
:: GBPC3504W ---> originals are KBPC3504W metal types mounted underneath the PCB and screwed down with heatsink paste to the lower metal base plate. The big metal base plate acts as the heatsink. There is a 1/16" bakelite spacer between the bridge and the PCB.
:: Diodes CR1, CR2, CR3, CR4 ---> use 1N4007
:: Diodes CR5, CR6, CR7, CR8 ---> use 10A4
:: VR1 fails from time to time: V100ZA15P ---> it's extremely rare that they fail and when they do it's pretty obvious. I wouldn't bother getting any.

Get a few TIP102 darlington transistors for the solenoid driver board and some 2N5064 and MCR106 SCRs for the lamp drivers. Oh and some spare fuses, most common failure is the 1 amp slo-blo underneath the playfield.